SERVES 6
In many homes, the onset of colder weather can be detected in the soothing aromas of simmering arroz con leche. It is the homiest and most comforting of desserts, the kind of dish referred to as de siempre or de todo la vida, which both mean “from always” or “from forever.” In the dairy-rich regions of Asturias and Cantabria, it is especially popular.
The history of this rice pudding is a long one, and many scholars argue that it traveled from India to Persia and on to Spain during the Moorish rule of the peninsula, adapting to the land and tastes. In Spain, it uses highly absorbent short-grain rice that becomes wonderfully plump and chewy, and is usually flavored by some citrus peels. The final texture should be creamy. Arroz con leche is frequently spooned into individual terra-cotta cazuelitas (casseroles) to cool and serve.
1. In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups/480 ml water to a rolling boil. Add the rice and boil for 30 seconds. Dump into a strainer. Drain but do not rinse the rice (to avoid washing away more starches).
2. In the saucepan, add the milk, lemon peels, and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil over medium heat. Return the rice to the pan and stir to break up any clumps. Reduce the heat to low and gently boil for 30 minutes, stirring frequently to keep it from sticking or scorching, or a skin from forming on the surface (possibly causing it to boil over). Stir in the sugar, butter, and a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes more, or until the rice is plump and chewy. The consistency should be runny, as it will thicken further once it cools. (Stir in more milk toward the end if needed.)
3. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick and lemon peels. Divide the rice among small cazuelitas, ramekins, or dessert bowls and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.
4. Serve chilled, lightly dusted with ground cinnamon.