MAKES ABOUT 20 MUFFINS
These muffins made with olive oil (instead of butter) are a country staple in central Spain. My introduction to them came during the family paella of my mother-in-law. Until a couple of years ago, one of her elderly aunts, who grew up in the rural interior of the country, arrived each weekend for the paella carrying a bag of magdalenas to accompany the after-lunch coffee. An elderly widow who wore all black apart from a flowing, colorful scarf wound theatrically around her neck, Tía Visi always brought far too many muffins, and sent the excess home with my wife and me to have as a snack with a bowl of strawberries or to dip into our morning café con leche. For years, there always seemed to be at least a few magdalenas around our kitchen, and it wasn’t until she had passed away that I ever bought them in the bakery or began to make them myself.
A generous pinch of sugar on top will caramelize into a round disc like a coin.
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas mark 4.
2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar with an electric mixer until pale and frothy. While continuing to beat, slowly add in the milk, olive oil, and then the lemon zest. Mix the flour and baking powder together and fold them into the batter with a spatula.
3. Line muffin tins with paper liners.
4. Spoon the batter into the paper liners, filling them about two-thirds to three-fourths full to allow room for the muffins to expand. Place a generous pinch of sugar (in a single pile) on the surface of each one, just slightly off center.
5. Place the muffin tin on the middle shelf of the oven and bake until golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Do not open the oven during baking.
6. Remove from the oven, sprinkle a pinch more sugar evenly over the muffin tops, and let cool on wire racks. Store in a sealed container lined with paper towels in a dry, cool place. These are best eaten within a few days.
