SERVES 4
Found from Asturias to Andalucía, and often using local breeds of cows that graze the fields, beef stew is a staple across Spain.
The key to keeping the meat tender is to marcar—literally “to mark,” which means sear or quickly brown—the pieces first over high heat without crowding the pan and without the pieces losing their moisture. Then you cook it over low heat, very slowly, just letting the bubbles pop up on the surface. Cooking it like this is called chup-chup, pronounced “choop-choop.” The word is onomatopoeiac, and the simmering should sound like it.
As with other stews that have potatoes, “snap” the pieces of potatoes directly into the soup (as opposed to cutting), so that they release more starch and help thicken the dish.
1. Season the meat with salt and pepper. In a cazuela, heavy casserole, large sauté pan, or heavy skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Working in single-layer batches that don’t crowd the pan, add the meat and sear it, turning as needed, 7 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and cover to keep warm.
2. Reduce the heat to medium, add the tomatoes, onion, carrot, and garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, cook for 1 minute, allowing the alcohol to burn off, and return the meat to the pan. Turn the pieces to coat. Pour in the stock and add the bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, partly cover the pot, and cook, just letting bubbles slowly break the surface for 1 hour (chup-chup). Stir from time to time to keep it from sticking.
3. Peel the potatoes. Working over the pan and adding them directly to the stew, break the potatoes into generous bite-size pieces by making a small cut with a paring knife, twisting the blade, and snapping off a piece. (You will hear the noise.)
4. Cook for a final 45 minutes over low heat, never letting it boil, until the meat is very tender and the potatoes are tender and slightly crumbling at the edges. Add a touch of water during cooking if needed to keep it loose. Serve in wide bowls.