MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS/720 ML
Membrillo is a dense, pressed quince paste found across Spain, but it is especially popular in the central heartland. It is a stunning combination paired with some wedges of aged Manchego cheese or smoky Basque Idiazábal cheese. This recipe is the softer, creamier version more common in many homes. It’s spreadable and spoonable as opposed to sliceable, and particularly fruity rather than densely sweet. This recipe is similar to the one that my wife’s grandmother prepared with the first quince from their tree each year for All Saints’ Day on November 1.
Generally, recipes call for an equal weight of sugar to usable quince flesh—in this case about 3 cups/600 g sugar—but a slight tartness from the quince is lovely here and I tend to use less sugar.
1. Fill a large bowl with cool water. Squeeze the lemon into the bowl and then drop it into the water.
2. Quarter the quinces, removing and reserving the heart and seeds. Do not peel. Put the pieces of quince into the bowl of lemon water (to stop them from discoloring).
3. Put the cores and seeds in a heavy saucepan and cover with 1 quart/1 L water. Bring to a boil, cover the pan, and briskly boil for 45 minutes, or until the natural pectin has been released from the seeds. Strain and reserve the liquid (there should be 2 to 2½> cups/480 to 600 ml), discarding the cores and seeds.
4. Drain the quinces. Peel and cut them into small pieces, and add to the saucepan along with the sugar. Combine enough water with the reserved liquid to make 2½> cups/600 ml and add. Cover the pan and cook over low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Remove the lid and cook, stirring from time to time, as it turns yellowish and then a scarlet color, the liquid mostly evaporates, and the quince is very tender, about 1 hour. Add in some water if necessary to keep it from scorching. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
5. Pass the quince and liquid through a food mill. Return to the pan and stir well while bringing it back to a simmer over medium-low heat. A wooden spoon dragged across the pan should leave a trail. Add in a touch more water to loosen if it feels too dense.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and cool slightly before spooning the paste into two small ceramic dishes, shallow bowls, or wide-mouthed glass canning jars to let set. Once cool, cover tightly. It will keep, covered, in the refrigerator, for 2 to 3 weeks.
