MAKES ABOUT 1½> CUPS/360 ML
The fertile northwest corner of Castilla y León, tucked into the region near Asturias and Galicia, is well known for its pantry preserves—chestnuts in syrup, cherries in aguardiente (see page 320), roasted peppers, and the like. These delightful preserves are adapted from Moncloa de San Lázaro, a small preserves company in the village of Cacabelos. The key, I learned from a group of women making preserves there one summer, is to patiently cook the onions until soft and translucent, without browning—what they called pochar (literally “to poach”)—before adding the sugar and vinegar. Serve with cheeses (warmed goat cheese makes for a particularly pleasing combination), or on the side of a beefy grilled steak.
1. Peel the onions. Chop into ½>-inch/1.25-cm pieces, leaving some a bit longer and rectangular shaped.
2. In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the onions and cook slowly, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 30 minutes. Sprinkle in the sugar and cook, continuing to stir frequently, until it begins to darken to a soft brown tone, about 20 minutes. Add the vinegars, and cook, stirring, until the vinegar evaporates, 5 to 10 minutes, and the onions are reddish brown. Remove from the heat and let cool.
3. Spoon the onions into sterilized glass canning jars, leaving one finger space at the top.
4. Store in the refrigerator and use within 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.