SERVES 2 TO 4
Castilla–La Mancha is the land of escabeche, the ancient olive oil and vinegar marinade, most famously used to prepare the red-legged partridge so abundant in autumn. Quail—smaller, with slightly more delicate meat, and found year-round in the markets—are an excellent alternative. They need to sit for at least a couple of days in the marinade to allow the flavors to blossom and penetrate. Eat with the fingers, getting every last shred of lush, tender meat from bones as delicate as toothpicks.
1. Wash and dry the birds. Singe off any remaining feathers over an open flame. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Clean the cavities, while leaving the birds whole. Truss the legs with cotton kitchen string to help them keep their shape and cook evenly.
2. In a large sauté pan or deep skillet, heat ¼ cup/60 ml of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the quail and gently brown, turning as needed, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a platter.
3. Add the onion, carrots, and garlic to the pan and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, and rosemary and then pour in the remaining 2 cups/480 ml olive oil along with the vinegar. Once the liquid reaches a simmer, return the quail to the pan, cover, and simmer over low heat until very tender, about 1 hour. The quail are done when the meat begins to come away from the bone and a leg jiggles in the socket. Remove from the heat and let cool for about 30 minutes.
4. Gently transfer the quail to a clean wide-mouthed glass jar or deep bowl. Completely cover with the liquid from the pan. If the marinade does not cover them, top up with more olive oil. Once completely cool, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day to allow the quail to take on the escabeche’s characteristic flavors. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
5. Remove from the refrigerator 1 or 2 hours before serving. Strain the liquid, reserving the carrots. Spoon some of the liquid over the quail and serve at room temperature with a few carrot rounds on the side.