SERVES 4
Just as quail and partridge in escabeche preserve the flavors of the dry, herb-scented central meseta (tablelands), sardines in this oil-and-vinegar marinade retain those of the saline Mediterranean. The boldly flavored, silvery fish hold their own here. Aside from grilling over open embers on an Andalusian beach, for me this is the best way to prepare sardines. Period.
1. Gently scale the sardines with a fish scaler or dull butter knife. Remove the innards by holding a sardine with one hand and with the other, rocking the head first upward breaking the neck, then downward, and finally firmly pulling it away to draw out the entrails. Run a finger through the cavity to make sure it’s clean. Rinse and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Season the sardines with salt, lightly dredge in flour, and cook until the skin is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn gently to avoid breaking the skin, and cook on the other side until golden, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a rectangular earthenware, ceramic, or glass dish. Lay the sardines in side by side, alternating head-tail directions so that they fit snugly together.
3. In a saucepan, add the remaining 11/3 cups/315 ml olive oil, the vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and peppercorns and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, let cool for a few minutes, and then stir in the pimentón.
4. Swirl the marinade in the pan to blend and then pour the oil and herbs over the fish to completely cover. If the marinade does not cover them, top up with more olive oil. Let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 day to allow the sardines to take on the escabeche’s characteristic flavors. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
5. Remove from the refrigerator about 1 hour before serving and serve at room temperature with some of the marinade spooned over the top.
