PREPARING FRESH SNAILS FOR COOKING

While fresh snails bought in markets no longer need to be purged before using, they do need to be cleaned and then boiled before being prepared in a sauce or added to a rice dish. It is important that the snails are brought slowly to a boil. The snail will emerge from the shell and then not quite be able to retract back inside, making the meat easier to extract and eat. A snail dropped into boiling water will quickly retract and be much harder work to eat.

Scrub the snails clean of slime and grit using plenty of water, a bit of wine vinegar, and salt. Rinse very well with running water.

Put the snails in a large pot and cover with water. Over low heat, slowly bring the water to a boil, allowing at least 30 minutes. When the water breaks a boil, remove the pot from the heat, and dump the snails in a large colander to drain. Rinse the snails with running water and clean the pot. Return the snails to the pot, cover with fresh water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the garlic, bay leaves, and thyme; reduce the heat to medium-low; and gently boil uncovered for 30 to 60 minutes, depending on how the snails will be cooked. (If they will be stewed or braised, 30 minutes is enough; if they will be used in rice dishes, boil for 60 minutes.) They are now ready to use according to the recipe instructions.