Many Spanish recipes, and particularly those from along the Mediterranean, begin with a sofrito, a slow-cooked aromatic base of (usually) onions and tomatoes. Called sofregit in Catalunya, Valencia, and the Balearic Islands, and refrito by some cooks in the center of the country, it often also includes garlic, sometimes sweet green pepper, and pieces of cuttlefish or squid. A good sofrito cannot be hurried: The onions should be slowly softened as their sweetness is drawn out without being scorched; tomatoes should cook equally without rush as their acidity dissipates, flavors deepen, color darkens, and texture becomes soft and pulpy.
Sofrito gives Spanish cooking a point of identity, and dozens of recipes in this book are built upon this base. Allow time for that foundation to be solid, for the sofrito’s flavors to concentrate down and the consistency to thicken. That means 8 to 10 minutes for the onions, and between 10 and 20 (or even 30) minutes for the tomatoes. The final consistency should be moist but not runny, akin to a mushy marmalade, with a darkish red color. Longer cooking will yield a deeper, more flavorful sofrito. Dribble in a bit of water or stock a few times as it cooks to keep it moist. A pinch or two of sugar can be added to a sofrito if you’re using out-of-season tomatoes that are a bit acidic.
It begins with onions. As they will stop browning once the tomatoes (which have moisture) are added, do not add the latter until the former have reached their desired tone. While I usually suggest using grated tomatoes, if using chopped ones, use a wooden spoon with a flattened end to tap down on the sofrito as it cooks to help break up pieces.
There are two ways to incorporate garlic into sofrito. The first is to add the finely chopped garlic to the onions just before they begin to turn brown; this method follows. There is a second way, ideal when the recipe also calls for a picada (a pounded paste of garlic, nuts, and parsley stirred in at the end of a dish; see following). Add the garlic to the oil before the onions, removing it once the garlic turns golden and aromatic. This nicely flavors the oil and softens the bite of the garlic, which will be pounded with the other ingredients in the picada and incorporated later into the dish.
A picada is a dense, pounded paste of (usually) toasted almonds or hazelnuts, fresh flat-leaf parsley, a small amount of bread, and garlic. Stirred into slow-cooked stews and braised dishes, certain rice dishes, stewed lentils and garbanzo beans, and soups toward the end of cooking, it acts as a thickener and offers a backbone of deep, rich flavors. In the south of Spain and elsewhere, it is known as a majado or even, by some, as a picadillo. It is a highly original element to the Spanish kitchen, especially in Catalunya and along the Mediterranean.
The garlic in the following recipe—a whole peeled clove—is quickly sautéed to soften its flavor, but, depending on the dish, it can be added raw. Only a handful of almonds or hazelnuts are used, and these should be well pounded or ground so that the picada can fully integrate into the sauce. In many rabbit dishes, the liver of the rabbit is commonly cooked and then pounded into the picada, too. This adds a rustic depth to flavors as well as creaminess to the dish. A picada can be quickly whirred in a food processor, but pounding a picada in a mortar with a pestle by hand gives more control over the final texture.
MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS/250 G
Halve the tomatoes crosswise, seed, and grate them following the directions on page 339. Alternatively, blanch and peel them following the directions on page 339, seed, and finely chop. Reserve all of the juices.
In a cazuela, heavy casserole, or large sauté pan or skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, as the onion turns pale and then translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic (if using) and cook, stirring almost continually, until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juices and stir well. Cook uncovered over low heat, stirring often and tapping down on the ingredients with a wooden spoon to help break them down, until the tomato is dark, pulpy, and has lost its acidity, 10 to 20 minutes. Dribble in 2 or 3 tablespoons water two or three times during cooking to keep the sofrito from drying out. It can be made ahead and refrigerated for a day or two.
MAKES ABOUT 3 TBSP/40 G
In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic, cooking until it is golden and fragrant, about 1 minute; remove and reserve. Add the bread and fry until golden, turning as needed, about 2 minutes.
To pound in a mortar: Add the garlic and bread along with a pinch of salt and pound with the pestle until pasty. Add the almonds, parsley, and, gradually, the liquid, pounding into a smooth paste.
To make in a food processor: Add all of the ingredients and grind using quick pulses, checking after each pulse for the desired consistency. Add in a bit more liquid if necessary and scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.
QUICKER SOFRITO: Once, many years ago—I hadn’t lived in Spain for long—I remarked that I was going to make a “quick sofrito” to my mother-in-law. She looked at me almost in shock. “There is no such thing,” she said. She was right. Indeed, a “quick sofrito” is somewhat of an oxymoron, but a quicker one can be prepared, using a wider skillet—to allow more onions to touch the skillet and the tomato to be spread out in order to accelerate the evaporation—and a bit more oil.