SERVES 4 TO 6
Chilled seafood salads blending tomatoes, peppers, and a variety of shellfish and fish with a light vinaigrette are a coastal favorite from Galicia to Andalucía. Final flavors, though, depend somewhat on the season—steamed and shucked mussels or large clams make a typical winter addition—as well as how far south you travel in the country. Cooks in Andalucía tend to use a heavier hand with the vinegar, namely with the local tawny-colored sherry vinegar. This salpicón is one of those southern versions, the type found at tapas bars around Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Cádiz. At home, I like the large, meaty, and moist flakes of dorada (gilt-head bream), though any firm, white-fleshed fish will work.
1. In a large saucepan, bring 4 cups/1 L water to a boil and season with salt. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Gently lay in the fish fillets and poach until opaque throughout, 3 to 5 minutes depending on the thickness. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a plate to drain. Once cool enough to handle, remove any skin and bones and discard, and break the fillets into generous pieces.
2. If using fresh (uncooked) shrimp, poach them in the same water over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until just opaque throughout. Immediately transfer them with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water to stop any further cooking. Once cool, remove the heads and shells, leaving the tails attached. Devein if desired.
3. Place the tomatoes, bell peppers, and onion in a large salad bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and vinegar until cloudy and blended, and pour over the vegetables. Season with salt and a generous amount of pepper and toss. Add the fish and shrimp and gently turn over to coat without breaking the pieces of fish. Cover and refrigerate until chilled.
4. Before serving, gently toss again (adding more oil if desired). Serve with the lemon wedges on the side.