SERVES 6
The Spanish name means “little Russian salad.” Some food writers even claim the salad’s roots are in Russia, carried back to Spain by soldiers who fought during World War II and adapted using local ingredients—tinned tuna, olives for pickles, no cabbage, and so on. (While Spain did not join the war, Franco sent almost 20,000 volunteer soldiers to fight with Germany on the Eastern Front. They were known as the División Azul, the Blue Division.) Although that story makes sense, this is one of the most iconic Spanish dishes.
At its most basic, the creamy potato salad has a mix of boiled vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and, usually, tinned bonito del norte tuna. But there are countless variations. You can find it with boiled shelled shrimp, or roasted red bell peppers, or given a fresher tone with pieces of apple and walnuts. Normally, a handful of short breadsticks called picos or bastones are poked into a mound of the salad just before being served.
1. In a large pot, combine the potatoes, carrot, and green beans; cover with abundant cold water; and bring to a boil over high heat. Add a pinch of salt, reduce the heat to low, and gently boil until the potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook until the potatoes are tender but not crumbling and the peas done, another 10 minutes or so. Drain, gently rinse under cold water to cool, and thoroughly drain in a colander.
2. In a large bowl, break up the tuna with a fork. Add the boiled vegetables along with the olives and chopped eggs, and gently fold in the mayonnaise. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours, until thoroughly chilled.
3. Mound on a serving platter and crisscross the anchovy fillets over top. Serve with the picos to poke into the salad once dished up.