SERVES 4
Dating back to at least the centuries of Arab (and possibly even Roman) rule in the south of Spain, this ancient dish is the precursor to the classic chilled tomato-based gazpacho (see page 60). Ajo blanco (“white garlic”) is, as one Andalusian chef told me on my first visit to Sevilla fifteen years ago, “the mother of all gazpachos,” and long predates the arrival of tomatoes and peppers that define the better-known kin. This version of ajo blanco with grapes is now linked to the Mediterranean coastal city of Málaga.
Some cooks do not strain the ajo blanco before serving, but I find that doing so makes for a particularly refined dish.
1. Blanch and remove the skins of the almonds: Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, drop in the almonds, and blanch for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately dunk in cold water; drain. Place on an old but clean kitchen cloth, fold over, and vigorously rub until the skins slip off. Remove by hand the skins that did not come away.
2. In a food processor, grind the almonds and garlic with the ice water and milk. Add the cucumber, the ½> cup/85 g grapes, the olive oil, and vinegar and grind again. Gradually add in the bread while blending into a smooth, thin paste. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 or 2 hours, stirring from time to time.
3. Strain the soup through a conical strainer or chinois into a clean bowl and press out all of the liquid with the back of a spoon; discard the solids. Cover and refrigerate the ajo blanco for several hours, until thoroughly chilled.
4. Stir before ladling into bowls. Quarter the remaining grapes and add a few to each bowl before serving.
NOTE: If using older, dried-out bread, cover the slices with water, soak for a few minutes, and then gently squeeze out the water before adding the bread to the food processor.