SERVES 6
This popular dish is a specialty of the sherry-producing triangle of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María, and in the ventas (humble roadside eateries found between towns or at crossroads) around the hills above them. The tanginess of the dish comes from the region’s sherry vinegar. If there is any sauce left over, spoon it into a bowl, refrigerate to solidify, and spread it on toast for a savory breakfast. That is exactly what they do in this part of Andalucía.
1. In a mortar, mash the garlic with the pimentón, cumin, and oregano, and then stir in the vinegar to form a runny paste. Or in a food processor, purée the ingredients together with a touch of water to loosen them.
2. In a large, heavy casserole, sauté pan, or deep skillet, heat ¼ cup/60 ml of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Generously season the pork with salt and pepper and, working in single-layer batches that don’t crowd the pan, cook, turning from time to time, until the pork is browned, 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Return all of the ribs to the pan, add the vinegary garlic paste, stir in the remaining ¼ cup/60 ml oil, and add about 2½> cups/600 ml water or just enough to cover. When it reaches a simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered, until the meat is very tender and begins to come away from the bone and the sauce has been largely reduced, about 1½> hours. Add in a touch more water as needed to keep it loose and moist.
4. Place a couple of ribs on each plate and cover with sauce. Serve warm.
