MAKES 2 CUPS/480 ML; SERVES 4 TO 6
While this is perhaps best known outside Spain as a French dish from Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence, the deep, ancient links between these southern French regions and Spain’s northeast mean that this fluffy salt cod and potato dish was incorporated centuries ago into traditional Catalan and Valencian cuisine. Here, it’s commonly spread on slices of toasted bread. Not so in the Basque Country, where you find brandada frequently stuffed into red piquillo peppers (see page 188). As the salt cod will be puréed, buy a less expensive cut.
1. Begin desalting the salt cod 2 to 3 days before (depending on the cut), following the directions on page 341. Drain, rinse, gently squeeze out excess moisture, and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a saucepan, add the potato, cover with about 1 inch/2.5 cm cold water, and bring to a boil. Partly cover the pan and gently boil, until the potato is tender and the tip of a knife can easily penetrate, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the potato to a colander to drain and cool. When cool enough to handle, peel away the skin, and cut the potato into four or five pieces.
3. Meanwhile, in another saucepan, add the salt cod and cover with 2 cups/ 480 ml cold water. Bring to a quick boil over high heat. As soon as the water breaks a boil, remove the pan from the heat and let the cod sit for 15 minutes in the water. Drain and rinse. Remove the skin and any bones.
4. In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook until just golden and fragrant, about 1 minute; do not let it burn. Transfer the garlic immediately to a plate. Reserve the oil.
5. In a food processor, purée the salt cod and garlic on low speed. Slowly add the reserved oil, potato chunks, and then the milk. Purée until creamy and fluffy, but not pasty. Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.
6. To serve, toast the bread and cut it into triangles. Spoon the brandade into a bowl to spread on the toast as desired.