SERVES 4 TO 6
Batter-coated and deep-fried squid rings called calamares a la romana are typical around Spain, especially in cheap bars, where they tend to be overbreaded and soggy. A much better way to fry good squid is with this coastal Andalusian method, which gives them just a light coating of flour. Here you taste not fried batter, but the squid. Given a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon, they make a quick and divine tapa.
1. Clean the squid following the directions on page 342. Cut the smaller ones in half, and medium-size ones into ½>-inch-/1.25-cm-wide rings. There should be about 18 ounces to 1¼ pounds/510 to 570 g of cleaned squid.
2. In a bowl, season the flour with salt and blend with your fingers.
3. Preheat the oven to 200°F/95°C.
4. In a deep skillet or sauté pan, heat at least 1 inch/2.5 cm of olive oil to 375°F/190°C. (The oil is the right temperature when a large cube of fresh bread dropped into it browns in about 60 seconds.)
5. Working in small batches that don’t crowd the pan or bring the temperature of the oil below 350°F/180°C, flour about one third or one fourth of the squid, shake off any excess flour, and gently lower them into the oil with tongs. Fry until golden and tender, 1 to 3 minutes depending on the thickness of the squid.
6. Remove with a slotted spoon, and place on absorbent paper towels to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm until all of the squid has been fried.
7. Flour and fry the remaining squid, being sure that the oil has returned to 350°F/180°C before adding the next batch.
8. Serve hot with lemon wedges on the side to squeeze over the top as desired.