SERVES 4
From Spain’s Castilian heartland of La Mancha—land of Don Quixote, ancient windmills along ridgelines, red-legged partridge in the fields, and its eponymous aged sheep’s cheese—comes an unfussy stewed mélange of vegetables that grow abundantly in the region. It is typically served as a first course topped with a poached egg, though it also nicely accompanies grilled lamb or beef. You often find leftovers in homes served at room temperature or chilled with some wedges of Manchego cheese. Like many cooks, I prefer to use a can of good-quality peeled whole plum tomatoes for this, no matter the season. In Spain, I usually buy Cidacos brand (the label should read tomate entero pelado). Look for these or similar high-quality Italian San Marzano ones. The taste of the bell peppers should be prominent.
1. In a skillet or sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and all their juices and the sugar and season with salt. Cook, stirring frequently to break up the tomatoes, until the sauce has darkened and reduced, about 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat and add the onion. Cook until it begins to soften and turn pale, about 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook until they, too, begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Finally, add the zucchini, stir to coat, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes to cut their rawness.
3. Add the tomatoes to the vegetables. Season with salt, add the pimentón, loosely cover the pot, and simmer over medium-low heat until the vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes. The pisto should be very moist and loose, and needs a spoon to be eaten.
4. Divide the pisto among shallow bowls, and serve hot.