SERVES 4
In the apple orchard–filled hills outside San Sebastián, late winter and spring is the season to head to a country sagardotegia (cider house) for glasses of hard cider taken directly from massive chestnut barrels. Uncorked, the cider whizzes out in an arc and you simply hold your glass under the stream. Such visits are usually accompanied by a hearty, traditional set meal that includes a juicy salt cod tortilla. So associated with this splendid Basque city and its surrounding area is this dish, it is often called a tortilla Donostiarra after the Basque name for San Sebastián, Donostia.
This is a loose, open-topped version of a tortilla that isn’t flipped but quickly “pulled” around the pan until set but still moist. As the salt cod will continue to sweat while cooking, the texture of the egg is better if the tortillas are small (or at least thinner) and very quickly cooked.
1. Beginning 2 or 3 days ahead, desalt the cod following the directions on page 341. Drain, rinse, and pat dry with paper towels. Skin and carefully debone it. Shred the cod by hand into bite-size pieces following the flakes and fibers. Gently squeeze to remove any excess moisture.
2. In a medium bowl, beat 3 of the eggs with a hand whisk until frothy.
3. In a 9-inch/23-cm nonstick skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to soften and turn pale, about 5 minutes. Add the green pepper and cook until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Finally, add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle in the parsley and add the salt cod. Cook, stirring continually, until the salt cod turns opaque and begins to flake apart, 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Remove half of the mixture from the skillet and set aside in a bowl.
5. Pour the eggs into the skillet. Immediately turn the heat to medium-high and move the pan quickly in a circular motion, pulling the pan back and forth to keep the eggs from sticking. Cook until the eggs are set but still very moist on top, 1½> to 2 minutes. Slide the tortilla onto a plate.
6. In the bowl, whisk the remaining 3 eggs until frothy.
7. Wipe the pan clean and heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Return the remaining salt cod mixture to the pan, and prepare the second tortilla in the same manner as the first.
8. Sprinkle the tortillas with parsley and serve.