Baltimore: Powder Keg
View of Baltimore in 1862
Bathed in glory by the city’s defiant stand against the British in 1814, Baltimore was, by midcentury, a bustling seaport and trade center big enough to rival Washington, D.C., in status. In 1830 the brand-new Baltimore and Ohio Railroad opened, and slowly extended its reach across Maryland, through Harpers Ferry, and by 1853 all the way across western Virginia (now West Virginia) to the Ohio River. It brought new settlers to the Midwest, and returned east with trade goods.
By 1861 Baltimore was a city divided. As in that political powder keg called St. Louis, Missouri, Confederate sympathizers lived side by side with stout Unionists. The ugly riot that darkened the city in April 1861 reflected Maryland’s sharply divided loyalties, and helped guide new president Abraham Lincoln in his efforts to keep the state from seceding.
Union officials had already managed to avoid trouble in Baltimore once, when the president-elect passed through the city on his way from Illinois to Washington, D.C., late on February 22. Warned of a plot to assassinate him as he switched trains in Baltimore, Lincoln reluctantly agreed, as he later put it, “to run no risk where no risk was necessary.” The intelligence, after all, had come from Allan Pinkerton—founder of the Pinkerton Detective Agency—who presumably knew what he was doing. Pinkerton’s agency would later gain fame on the frontier during its pursuit of the Jesse James Gang. First, however, Pinkerton would come under fire for backing George McClellan’s ridiculous claims of enemy troop numbers during his brief tenure atop the Army of the Potomac.
With a heavy coat covering his shoulders and an unfamiliar soft hat on his head, Lincoln (along with Pinkerton and Ward Hill Lamon, his personal bodyguard) slipped unannounced from a special train in Baltimore in the wee hours of February 23, transferred to the capital-bound train, and reached Washington without incident. Things took a violent turn a few weeks later, however, after Lincoln—in the wake of the Confederate attack on Fort Sumter—issued a call for 75,000 volunteers with which to suppress the rebellion. For a number of Southern governors, this was the step—they claimed—that pushed them into the Confederate camp. Eastern Maryland was home to a vocal, pro-Southern population. The arrival of Northern troops in Baltimore was bound to cause a fuss.
Allan Pinkerton
On April 19—100 years to the day after the Battles of Lexington and Concord—the 6th Massachusetts Militia debarked in Baltimore en route, like Lincoln a few weeks earlier, to Washington. A hostile crowd awaited them. When the inexperienced militiamen passed, angry Marylanders unleashed a barrage of stones. In return, the attackers received a volley of musketry. The exchange left four soldiers and a dozen civilians dead on the street.
Things were only slightly quieter two months later when Elisha Hunt Rhodes rolled into town with the 2nd Rhode Island Volunteers. “We arrived in Baltimore after dark and disembarked from the cars to march through the city to the Washington Depot,” wrote Rhodes. “Immense crowds met us at the depot and the streets were lined with people who shouted for Jeff Davis and abused us roundly.”
Warning a Maryland peace commission to “Keep your rowdies in Baltimore,” Lincoln used heavy-handed persuasion to keep the state loyal. Federal authorities arrested Baltimore’s mayor when he refused to pledge an oath of loyalty to the Union. A small army of Union troops deployed throughout the city while Lincoln used the media to infuse pro-Union sentiment. Baltimore calmed. Although Maryland soldiers fought for each side during the war, the state remained in the Union.
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum
901 W. Pratt St.
Baltimore
(410) 752-2490
After a near-disastrous roof collapse that left a number of locomotives and other artifacts badly damaged, the renowned B&O Railroad Museum reopened with expanded visitor services and educational programs. The heart of the 40-acre museum complex, of course, remains its historic locomotives and its unmatched collection of railroad artifacts and ephemera dating to 1830. The combination of these marvelous old machines and recognition of their importance in the Civil War (and the expansion of the frontier) makes this museum a must-see for adults and kids.
You can also visit the B&O Railroad Museum at Ellicott City Station, the oldest surviving railroad station in America, dating to 1830. See the “Other Sites of Interest” section.
Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture
830 E. Pratt St.
Baltimore
(443) 263-1800
www.africanamericanculture.org
While the Civil War isn’t a primary focal point of this museum, which opened in 2005 at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, it does an admirable job of recounting the contributions of Maryland’s free and enslaved African Americans before, during, and after the war. It’s a must-see for any African-American history enthusiast, tackling topics like family life and community bonds, labor contributions, and cultural and entertainment achievements.
USS Constellation Museum
Pier 1, Inner Harbor
301 E. Pratt St.
Baltimore
(410) 539-1797
The last all-sail ship built by the U.S. Navy, the Constellation was used to police the coast of Africa to enforce slave trading laws. During the war, it defended Union merchants from Confederate raiders. It’s also the only Civil War–era ship that’s still afloat. Hours vary by season.
B&O Railroad Museum: Ellicott City Station
2711 Maryland Ave.
Ellicott City, MD
(410) 461-1945
The oldest surviving railroad station in the United States, the Ellicott City Station is a nice complement to a visit to the B&O Railroad Museum. Visitors can learn about the rise of railroad transportation in the United States; there’s also an exhibition that discusses the importance of the railroad to the Union during the Civil War. It’s open Fri, Sat, and Sun.
Druid Hill Park
North and Madison Sts.
Baltimore
The city’s first large municipal park was purchased in 1860 at the height of a nationwide movement to develop parks for city dwellers. Early in the war, Union soldiers camped near the park’s entrance. As the war gathered steam, the park became an organizing point for members of the U.S. Colored Troops. Admission is free.
Federal Hill
Baltimore
This park overlooking the Inner Harbor attracts visitors for more than just a postcard-perfect view. After the riot of 1861, Union troops took command of the strategic location under the command of General Benjamin F. Butler, who led troops from Annapolis to Baltimore in the middle of the night on the B&O Railroad. Overnight, the men put up a small fort and aimed their cannons squarely at downtown Baltimore to intimidate would-be dissenters and to keep the city and the state under Union control.
Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine
2400 E. Fort Ave.
Baltimore
(410) 962-4290
Famed for its role in repelling the British attack on Baltimore during the War of 1812, Fort McHenry was garrisoned by Union troops and used during the Civil War as a prison for Confederate soldiers and sympathizers.
Lansdowne Christian Church
101 Clyde Ave.
Baltimore
(410) 242-4821
This historic church was built in 1905, a gift from Civil War veteran Charles Hull and his wife, Mary, to honor the fallen Union soldiers. The benefactors required, however, that the church hold a memorial service every May in memory of Hull’s brothers-at-arms, making the church the focal point of local Memorial Day observances.
Maryland Historical Society
201 W. Monument St.
Baltimore
(410) 685-3750
There’s a small gallery in this museum that showcases Civil War artifacts recovered from the battleground border state. You can also watch a short video about the war and its effects on the region. If you’re in luck, you’ll catch a temporary exhibition with a Civil War theme. The museum is open Thurs through Sun.
Mount Clare Museum House
1500 Washington Blvd.
Baltimore
(410) 837-3262
Located in the center of what was once a rich plantation, Mount Clare is a splendid example of Georgian architecture built for one of the city’s most celebrated colonial residents, Charles Carroll. During the war, guns and munitions were stored on the grounds of the mansion in a position known as Camp Carroll. Union forces used the western pastures as a cavalry training facility. The mansion is open Tues through Sat.
| Abacrombie Fine Food and Accommodations | $$–$$$ |
58 W. Biddle St.
Baltimore
(410) 244-7227
Locals know this 12-room B&B best for its fine-dining restaurant, voted “Best Restaurant” by the Baltimore Sun, but overnight guests discover clean, comfortable, and reasonably priced accommodations that include free parking and breakfast. Rooms are furnished with antiques and replicas that reflect the history and flavor of the historic location. A word of caution: The Abacrombie is housed in a four-story row house, so be sure to pack lightly; you may be climbing steps!
| Admiral Fell Inn | $$$$ |
888 S. Broadway Baltimore
(410) 522-7377
A Baltimore landmark and one of the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Historic Hotels of America, the stylistically diverse, 80-room Admiral Fell Inn fits nicely into the Fells Point Historic District. Its nicely appointed, modern rooms and suites (which offer everything from fireplaces and canopy beds to Jacuzzis) look and feel much cozier than most hotel rooms. As you might expect in a historic hotel, ghost legends abound. Curious guests can sit down for afternoon tea to learn about the spirit-residents or decide for themselves during a one-hour ghost tour of the hotel and grounds. A stone’s throw from the Inner Harbor, the quietly classy inn is central to everything in Baltimore. But if you want to stay in for dinner, the inn also boasts its own fine-dining restaurant named True.
| Aunt Rebecca’s Bed & Breakfast | $$$ |
106 E. Preston St.
Baltimore
(410) 625-1007
Situated in an 1870 brownstone town house, Aunt Rebecca’s is a favorite among visitors to downtown Baltimore, and with good reason. Its innkeepers are warm and welcoming, its prices are reasonable, and the location can’t be beat. The three guest rooms are large and comfortable and feature special touches like claw-foot bathtubs. Rates include free parking and a tasty, home-cooked breakfast served to all guests at 8 a.m.
| Brookshire Suites | $$$$ |
120 E. Lombard St.
Baltimore
(410) 625-1300
www.harbormagic.com/brookshire/brookshire_default.asp
If all of the history hunting has left you craving something a little more contemporary, check in to the Brookshire Suites. It’s a sister property of historic Admiral Fell Inn, but there’s a strikingly different mood at this 97-room Inner Harbor hotel. Guests enjoy a complimentary hot breakfast served in the Cloud Club, a top-floor dining room with a breathtaking view of the city and its surroundings. Local wines and beers are served by the glass—and free of charge—to guests on weekdays, while summers bring weekly bargain-priced Crab Feasts to allow guests to try out a Maryland culinary tradition. Guest rooms and suites are roomy, clean, and comfortable, and many have pleasant views of the harbor.
| Celie’s Waterfront Bed and Breakfast | $$$$ |
1714 Thames St.
Baltimore
(410) 522-2323
(800) 432-0184
Located on the historic Fells Point waterfront, Celie’s is sunny, comfortable, convenient, unique, and brimming with modern amenities (plus access to the inn’s private rooftop deck). The inn’s Harbor Front rooms are perfect for romantic getaways, outfitted with four-poster king-size beds, wood-burning fireplaces, and hydro-thermal massage tubs. The hotel also boasts two large suites equipped with pullout couches and kitchens that sleep four to six guests. In-room fridges are stocked with complimentary water and sodas, and continental breakfast is included in the room rate.
| 4 East Madison Inn | $$$$ |
4 E. Madison St.
Baltimore
(410) 332-0880
If you prefer the authenticity of Baltimore’s neighborhoods to the built-up modernity of the Inner Harbor, check into this elegant nine-room B&B in Mount Vernon. The cozy rooms are furnished with glorious antiques, ornately carved Victorian furniture, chandeliers, and even fireplaces in some rooms. Guests enjoy modern conveniences like high-speed Internet, free parking, comfortable beds, and a lavish, home-cooked breakfast.
| Glenda’s Bed & Breakfast | $$$ |
2028 Park Ave.
Baltimore
(410) 383-8535
This charming two-room B&B is carved out of a three-story 1886 brick and brownstone row house with magnificent high ceilings. Although it’s tempting to sleep in when you’re luxuriating in a cozy bed (and perhaps even enjoying the in-room fireplace), you won’t want to miss breakfast prepared by Glenda herself. You’ll also be treated to afternoon tea, complete with tasty desserts, served daily 4 to 5 p.m. While it’s not in the heart of the tourist district, it’s a short 5- to 10-minute drive or bus trip to most points of interest—well worth it for the reasonably priced accommodations and personal service.
| Inn at Henderson’s Wharf | $$$$ |
1000 Fell St.
Baltimore
(410) 522-7777
Step inside the Inn at Henderson’s Wharf and you’ll see why it’s consistently rated one of Baltimore’s top hotels. Located in Fell Point, where Baltimore dips gently into the Chesapeake Bay and where restaurants and nightclubs abound, the 38-room inn is warm and welcoming, offering friendly, knowledgeable service and even a complimentary bottle of wine upon check-in. Rooms are luxuriously outfitted with lush feather beds, flat-screen TVs, and, in some cases, exposed-brick walls. Guests can walk to the bars, shops, and restaurants in Fell Point for the evening, then wake up to a delicious breakfast spread—which can also be enjoyed in an outdoor garden patio.
| Inn at 2920 | $$$$ |
2920 Elliott St.
Baltimore
(410) 342-4450
Most travelers associate B&Bs with antique furnishings and floral bedspreads, but that’s not the case at this upscale, contemporary property. The five fashionably furnished rooms have fun and funky names and designs, and some come with a resident beta fish whose name matches the theme of the room. Valentino, for example, lives in the “Bordello Room,” while Columbus stays in the “Room at the End of the World.” Guests can luxuriate in Jacuzzi tubs and enjoy high-speed wireless Internet access and gourmet breakfast. From the Canton neighborhood, where the inn is located, it’s a 20- to 30-minute walk to downtown Baltimore or a quick water-taxi ride across the harbor.
| Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano | $$$ |
306 S. High St.
Baltimore
(410) 727-0700
If you want to splurge on a wonderful Italian meal in an inspiring setting, Aldo’s is a fine place to do it. Step inside and you’ll see why it’s considered the most beautiful restaurant in Little Italy. The dining room is outfitted with soaring columns, glorious high ceilings, and intricate woodwork, much of it carved by chef/owner Aldo Vitale. The chef hails from the Calabria region of southern Italy and infuses light, Mediterranean cooking traditions into many of his dishes. If you’re in the mood for a little indulgence, however, look past the light and healthy seafood dishes and feast on Aldo’s Tournedos Rossini, a decadent combination of grilled filet mignon, seared Hudson Valley foie gras, Italian black truffle, porcini, and wild mushroom sauce, served with four-cheese risotto. It’s open for dinner nightly. Men should note that jackets are required.
| Amicci’s | $$ |
231 S. High St.
Baltimore
(410) 528-1096
This friendly, laid-back Italian restaurant lacks the formality you’ll find in other Little Italy hot spots. The food is simple, fresh, and reasonably priced; there’s not much on the dinner menu that’s priced above $18. Choose from classic Italian favorites and comfort foods like lasagna, chicken parmigiana, and house-made gnocchi. Pastas come served with classic sauces or gussied up with sautéed chicken, shrimp, and fresh veggies. Families will also feel right at home in this kid-friendly eatery.
| Della Notte | $$$ |
801 Eastern Ave.
Baltimore
(410) 837-5500
A popular draw in Baltimore’s renowned Little Italy neighborhood, Della Notte features classic Italian cuisine made from the finest veal, poultry, and seafood. The restaurant’s diverse menu also offers hearty dishes such as filet mignon, lamb shanks, and Chesapeake Bay rockfish. Breads and desserts are made fresh on the premises. Another bonus: Della Notte offers free parking, a rarity in Little Italy! Reservations are recommended on weekends.
| Helen’s Garden Café | $$$ |
2908 O’Donnell St.
Baltimore
(410) 276-2233
Helen’s is the place to go in the Canton neighborhood for salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes, and other light lunch fare. For dinner, you’ll find a tantalizing assortment of meat dishes like curried salmon, pork chops au poivre, and Greek shrimp, with dozens of complementary wines available by the glass. The space is charming and inviting, furnished with eclectic pieces of art.
| MaMa’s on the Half Shell | $$$ |
2901 O’Donnell St.
Baltimore
(410) 276-3160
If you’re prowling for fresh seafood, MaMa’s should be on your radar screen. While the shrimp are succulent and the crab cakes are packed with as much meat as you could hope for, the real draw is the ice-cold jumbo-size oysters. Sit outside on the patio and savor the flavors of the Chesapeake, best when washed down with a local beer. MaMa’s is located in the Camden neighborhood, an easy cab ride from downtown.
| Nacho Mama’s | $$ |
2907 O’Donnell St.
Baltimore
(410) 675-0898
For Mexican fare served in a fun, festive atmosphere, stop by this Canton bistro, which adds a Baltimore twist to southwestern classics. Quesadillas are stuffed with shrimp, artichokes, and, of course, jumbo lump crab meat. Mexican favorites like tacos, fajitas, and chimichangas are hot sellers, while other diners opt for Mama’s classic meatloaf or chipotle-seasoned barbecued baby back ribs. Come during happy hour and you’re likely to find a crowd of locals gathered here for after-work margaritas, munching on chips served in hubcaps.
| Obrycki’s Crab House and Seafood Restaurant | $$$ |
1727 E. Pratt St.
Baltimore
(410) 732-6399
In Baltimore, everyone’s got an opinion on where you should go for crabs. While some may argue that Obrycki’s house-blended seasoning isn’t as tasty as the traditional Old Bay seasoning, the popularity of this Fells Point eatery among locals and visitors tells a different story. The restaurant uses only the freshest local seafood, which limits it to seasonal (Mar through Nov) operations. If cracking into a crab isn’t for you, you can also feast on crab cakes and other regional specialties here.
| Phillips Harbor Place | $$$ |
301 Light St.
Baltimore
(410) 685-6600
Phillips must be doing something right. A Baltimore dining destination since 1980, you’ll still find long lines packed with tourists and locals during peak season. Don’t leave without tasting the specialty of the house: the famous lump crab cakes, flavored with two types of mustard and the signature house seasoning. Or, for a true seafood extravaganza, feast on the all-you-can-eat seafood buffet (adjacent to the main restaurant), which includes steamed crabs and a smattering of side dishes.
| Pierpoint Restaurant | $$$ |
1822 Aliceanna St.
Baltimore
(410) 675-2080
Although it’s been open for more than twenty years, Chef Nancy Longo’s Pierpoint Restaurant remains one of the most talked-about restaurants in Baltimore. While it’s ever popular with locals, Longo’s culinary creations showcase Maryland’s bounty, making it a great pick for visitors, too. The Fells Point eatery is cozy and intimate; it’s best to make a reservation or come on a less-crowded weeknight. There’s also a spectacular open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the team in action as they craft tasty concoctions like Maryland-style cioppino, pork chops, and Moroccan lamb with mango pesto.
| Samos | $$ |
600 Oldham St.
Baltimore
(410) 675-5292
Don’t judge this well-loved Greektown restaurant for its plain and simple exterior; take a look instead at the long lines of locals who have named this place one of their favorites for authentic Mediterranean fare, served in a casual setting (and equally popular for takeout). Step inside the modest eatery, and you’ll be greeted by the mouth-watering smell of gyros turning on a spit and warm pita bread emerging from the oven.