The Big Book of CIVIL WAR SITES

Union soldiers at Arlington House; Civil War photographer Matthew Brady is wearing the top hat.

In late April 1861, only the murky waters of the Potomac River separated what was left of the old Union from the fledgling Confederate States of America. From the window of his Arlington home, Robert E. Lee could look out at Abraham Lincoln’s White House and ponder his own decision to turn his back on the nation he had served so long.

On April 22, Lee left his longtime home forever, and traveled to Richmond to accept command of Virginia’s state forces. His wife soon followed, and as Union war preparations continued, Yankee officers turned the historic Arlington House into a headquarters building. In 1864, quartermaster General Montgomery C. Meigs authorized the burial of fallen Union soldiers on the grounds of Lee’s former home—the first of some 20,000 Civil War soldiers to be buried in what became Arlington National Cemetery.

The extension of Washington’s fort system into Fairfax County strengthened the Union hold on Northern Virginia territory, which was by September 1861 incorporated into the Union Department of the Potomac. A Confederate Department of Northern Virginia (incorporating the short-lived Department of Alexandria) also existed, although the Union presence south of the Potomac extended its parameters as far south as Manassas and the peninsula.

Alexandria, soon to be the home of Fort Ward, inspired particular anger among Unionists during the Federal occupation of that town on May 24, 1861. After removing a Confederate flag from the roof of the Marshall House Hotel, 24-year-old Colonel Elmer Ellsworth was shot to death by the establishment’s owner. A close friend of President Lincoln’s, Ellsworth was mourned as the Union’s first casualty of the war.

Confederate Personality: Robert E. Lee

General Robert E. Lee

Few military commanders have ever inspired the kind of loyalty, even worship, that Army of Northern Virginia soldiers felt for their beloved “Marse Robert.” The son of Revolutionary War hero Henry “Light Horse Harry” Lee, Robert E. Lee was born in Westmoreland County, Virginia, in 1807, grew up in Alexandria, and entered West Point in 1825. After a series of stops at U.S. Army posts, Lee got the chance (along with dozens of former classmates and future enemies) to prove his mettle on the rugged battlefields of Mexico.

While General Winfield Scott further cemented his American-hero status with his 1847 Mexico City Campaign, Lee established himself as perhaps Scott’s finest junior officer with his daring and smarts. Lee learned much from his superior, but as he returned to the drudgery of peacetime army life, did not figure to use those lessons anytime soon. After a three-year stint as superintendent of West Point, Lee received a bump up to lieutenant colonel and command of the 2nd U.S. Cavalry in Texas. His direction of the U.S. Marines’ capture of John Brown in 1859 (Lee happened to be in the nation’s capital at the time) interrupted his otherwise mostly uninteresting stint on the frontier.

With civil war approaching, Lee remained in U.S. Army blue; he even accepted a promotion in March 1861 to command of the 1st U.S. Cavalry. But while Lee opposed secession, he could not bring himself to lead an army against his home state; if Virginia was for the South, then so was Lee. On April 18, he declined Scott’s offer of command of Union armies; on the 20th he resigned his commission.

The man whose name would soon echo across the continent began his Confederate service on a relatively low rung, as commander of Virginia’s state forces. He was serving as a military advisor to Confederate president Jefferson Davis in June 1862, when Union general George McClellan drove his Army of the Potomac to within a dozen miles of Richmond. Lee’s rise to legend status began after Davis sent him into the field to replace Joseph E. Johnston following the Battle of Seven Pines.

HISTORIC SITES

When Robert E. Lee resigned his U.S. Army commission to begin his service to Virginia, he left behind the family home of 30 years. Federal forces soon occupied it. Built between 1802 and 1818 by George Washington Parke Custis (or, more accurately, his slaves) to honor his stepfather, George Washington, Arlington House hosted the wedding of Custis’s daughter, Mary Anna Randolph Custis, to Robert E. Lee in 1831.

The house is open for self-guided tours daily; it’s best to call ahead during the renovation to ensure that it’s open. One floor of Lee’s old greenhouse building now houses the Robert E. Lee Museum, a collection of exhibits and artifacts related to the Confederate commander and his family. Admission is free.

Replacing the farmland and gardens formerly owned by Robert E. Lee, Arlington National Cemetery was created at the urging of quartermaster General Montgomery C. Meigs, and dedicated on June 15, 1864. Civil War buffs might look for headstones etched with the word “Civilian” or “Citizen.” These are the burial sites of nearly 4,000 former slaves. There’s also a section of the cemetery that honors the memory of the United States Colored Troops. Residents of Freedman’s Village, a refuge for runaway slaves, are buried nearby.

Union Personality: Ulysses S. Grant

General Ulysses S. Grant

Other American presidents have risen from obscure beginnings to reach the nation’s highest office. None, however, had to bounce back from personal misfortunes quite as often or as late in life as did Grant, whose Missouri farm was appropriately named “Hardscrabble.”

Born in Point Pleasant, Ohio, in 1822, Hiram Ulysses Grant seemed to have escaped a life as a farmer or tanner (his father’s occupation) when he received a nomination to West Point in 1839. Like many other officers whose academic records at West Point offered little hint of their battlefield potential, Grant stood out in horsemanship, and little else. He graduated in 1843, and accepted his second lieutenant’s commission in the infantry.

The Mexican War offered Grant (and scores of other officers destined for Civil War fame) opportunities for adventure and advancement; the Ohioan earned two brevets for gallantry, and served as quartermaster for the 4th Infantry. Groomed for command in Mexico, Grant soon found himself back in the highly competitive officer corps of the small, stagnant, peacetime army—no place for a man of exceptional ability or ambition. Bored, separated from his wife, and desperately lonely, Grant struggled on the frontier. He occasionally drank too much and feuded with his superior officer. By July 1854, he had had enough of army life; he resigned his commission and returned home to be with his family.

But civilian life proved equally challenging. After struggling as a farmer, Grant moved from Missouri to Galena, Illinois, where he clerked in his father’s leather-goods shop. The Civil War saved Grant from frustration and obscurity. Given command of the 21st Illinois, Grant was bumped up to brigadier general before a near-disaster in the November 7, 1861, Battle of Belmont, Missouri. Subsequent victories at Forts Henry and Donelson, and, later, Chattanooga and Vicksburg, convinced President Abraham Lincoln to give him control of all Union armies in March 1864. Combat command brought out the best in Grant. Simply put, Southern diarist Mary Chesnut wrote, Grant had “the disagreeable habit of not retreating before irresistible veterans.”

Four other Yankee soldiers (all from Ohio) went on to become president of the United States: Rutherford B. Hayes (1877–1881) was brevetted to major general, and was wounded four times; James Garfield (mortally wounded by an assassin three months after March 1881 inauguration) reached the rank of major general; Benjamin Harrison (1889–1893) was brevetted to brigadier general; and William McKinley (1897–September 1901, assassinated) served in the 23rd Ohio with Hayes, and was brevetted to major.

Arlington National Cemetery is open daily and ample parking is available. For an overview of the cemetery highlights, take Tourmobile, a narrated sightseeing vehicle that conveys you to the most popular points of interest in the cemetery, including the Kennedy gravestone, Arlington House, and the Tomb of the Unknowns.

The only major battle to take place in Fairfax County, the Battle of Chantilly took place on September 1, 1862, following the second battle of Manassas. Stonewall Jackson fought, and two Union generals, Philip Kearny and Isaac Stevens, both lost their lives. In the small park that marks the battle site, you can visit a monument to the two fallen generals.

Fort Ward explores the history of the ring of defensive forts that encircled Washington, D.C., during the Civil War. The museum offers permanent and rotating exhibits, a research library, educational programs, and artifacts that provide a snapshot of Civil War life. There’s even an 1862 topographical map outlining the capital city’s defenses and one of three Hale rocket launchers that are still known to exist. A full tour of the fort’s trenches, bombproofs, and gun emplacements is a unique experience that Civil War buffs should not miss.

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST

The City of Fairfax and its role in the Civil War fall into focus at this small-town museum. A permanent town history exhibition—which also includes information on the Battle of Chantilly, which was fought nearby—is staged in the museum’s Hammill Gallery, while other galleries house timely and topical temporary exhibitions. The museum doubles as a visitor center, providing information on popular regional attractions. Admission is free.

Both sides battled for control over this critical stop on the Orange and Alexandria Railroad. Whichever side controlled it would have access to the quickest and most direct way to ferry soldiers and supplies between Alexandria and Richmond. The former train depot is now home to the Fairfax Station Railroad Museum, a quaint community museum that pays a fair amount of attention to the town’s role in the Civil War. The museum is open Sun.

Robert E. Lee’s Virginia roots are evident throughout northern Virginia, especially in Alexandria. The Lee-Fendall House was home to 37 members of the Lee family, passed down through the generations from 1785–1903. The furnishings on display show the house as it looked during the antebellum period and during the war itself. Tours are offered every hour on the hour. It’s best to call ahead to confirm that the house is open; it’s frequently rented for weddings and other private events.

A trip to Old Town Alexandria is a step back in time, and there’s no better place to learn about the history of this charming port town than the Lyceum. Founded in 1839, the Lyceum serves as a library, lecture room, exhibition hall, and gathering place for residents and visitors to Alexandria. The building was used as a hospital during the Civil War and, more than a century later in 1985, it was designated Alexandria’s History Museum. Admission is free.

When war broke out, Confederate forces controlled the area surrounding St. Mary’s Church and the railroad west to Manassas, but the Union’s domain followed the railroad east to Burke, putting the newly constructed Catholic church in the middle of the crossfire. After the First Battle of Manassas, St. Mary’s was used as a field hospital. Wounded soldiers were laid out and treated on pews taken from the church, and many that succumbed were buried on the church grounds. Clara Barton was among the volunteer nurses who traveled to St. Mary’s to treat the injured soldiers. Inspired by her experience at Fairfax Station, she established a civilian society that would later become the American Red Cross. The church is still open for Sun Mass and is one of the region’s most sought-after wedding venues.

Constructed at the end of the 18th century, Sully was established by Richard Bland Lee, Northern Virginia’s first congressman and Robert E. Lee’s uncle. Both sides stopped at this Georgian-style manor during the war, though the Union-sympathizing gentlemen owners were known to flee to Alexandria during the war, leaving the women in charge. The estate’s slave quarters have also been restored, offering a realistic snapshot of slave life in Northern Virginia. The plantation is open every day except Tues. Guided tours of the house are given every hour on the hour. Tours of the slave quarters and outbuildings are available as well.

Northern Virginia Forts

Several earthworks forts were constructed in Northern Virginia by Union forces to bolster the defense of the Federal capital. Fort Ward boasts the most extensive remains, artifacts, and interpretation, but many of the other forts have evolved into popular parks for picnics and outdoor recreation.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Any place that claims to be “almost heaven” isn’t afraid of setting its guests’ expectations fairly high, and this Alexandria B&B doesn’t disappoint. The beautiful private home is furnished with antiques, hardwood floors, and even an in-ground pool and Jacuzzi. Families traveling with children can take advantage of kid-friendly amenities like a pool table, darts, electronic basketball, and even an air-hockey table. On the weekends, guests enjoy homemade, fruit-filled waffles and cooked-to-order omelets for breakfast. It’s just a few minutes away from Metrorail and Old Town Alexandria.

Arlington and Alexandria are brimming with national hotel chains, but bed-and-breakfasts are somewhat of a rarity. This network connects you with several of the region’s private homes that offer short-term accommodations and extended-stay leases.

If you’re looking for a place to stay in Fairfax with a little bit of history and charm, you can’t beat the Bailiwick Inn, a lovely, Federal-style town house that boasts an inn, bakery, and fine-dining restaurant all in the same space. Even Confederate colonel John Singleton Mosby understands the appeal; he once raided it! There are 14 guest rooms, all named for famous Virginians, decorated with antiques and reproductions. Some guest rooms are also outfitted with fireplaces and whirlpool tubs, and room rates include afternoon tea and breakfast.

Although Alexandria’s charming cobblestone streets practically scream “bed-and-breakfast country,” there are surprisingly few in town, thanks in part to strict real estate codes and sky-high property values. The circa-1816 Captain McGuire House is a fine exception, nestled between historic row houses a block from the shops and restaurants on King Street. There are only two rooms, one outfitted with a queen-size bed, decorative fireplace, and private bath. A third-floor bedroom has two twin beds and a private bath with a shower.

Alexandria’s other Kimpton hotel tells a different story than the stately Morrison House. For years, the property operated as a Holiday Inn Select. After a $22 million renovation that brought the 241-room hotel up to four-star standards, it reopened as the sleek, stylish Hotel Monaco. Although it’s loaded with 21st-century amenities, the Monaco’s location in the heart of the Old Town Historic District is one of its top selling points. You can walk down to the waterfront for open-air dining or walk to the Metro to access Washington, D.C.’s most celebrated sites.

There’s nothing fancy about this no-frills Falls Church hotel, but you can’t beat the value. It’s clean, safe, and well-located near Metrorail, shops, and restaurants. Rooms were recently renovated and now boast 27-inch flat-screen TVs, free wireless Internet, free parking, and complimentary continental breakfast.

While most other hotels managed by San Francisco–based Kimpton are known for their bold decor and funky furnishings, the Morrison House is decidedly demure, complementing its Old Town Alexandria location with antiques, reproductions, and other classic touches. In the boutique hotel’s 45 guest rooms, you’ll find two- and four-poster beds, even decorative fireplaces, crystal chandeliers, and round-the-clock butler service. It’s not all about the past, however. Guest rooms are also outfitted with wireless Internet capabilities, multiline phones with free local calls, and yoga and Pilates equipment available to borrow.

Don’t let the Stafford House’s “married couples only” policy prevent you from enjoying a stay at this luxurious B&B. It’s perfect for a romantic getaway or a relaxing respite after a day of intense sightseeing. Guests enjoy access to an enormous, private whirlpool bath and dry sauna and enjoy room-service breakfast. Single travelers are also welcomed, and unmarried couples are referred to other nearby B&Bs.

RESTAURANTS

If you’re staying in Falls Church, and you’re hungry for Italian, this neighborhood eatery should be at the top of your list. Argia’s takes recipes handed down from chef and co-owner Adam Scott’s grandmother (note the family photographs on the wall) and adds in a few modern variations. The eggplant al formaggio is a delectable take on eggplant parmesan, grilled and layered with goat cheese and tomatoes. Calamari comes lightly dusted in parmesan and flavored with fresh basil. Dishes are served as single portions or family style, designed for sharing.

This family-friendly favorite serves classic American creations like crab cakes, baby back ribs, and succulent pork tenderloin glazed with a citrus-chipotle sauce and paired with parmesan potatoes. Artie’s boasts one of the region’s best brunches as well. Brioche French toast is decadent and sweet, and you can’t miss with the egg dishes and the fresh-baked bread.

The Town of Vienna’s historic district is peppered with a few Civil War sites, along with a few eateries. Among them is Bazin’s, a new venture for chef Patrick Bazin, who earned acclaim at the Occidental, one of D.C.’s leading historic restaurants. Inventive surf-and-turf creations abound on the menu: Mushroom-crusted rockfish is served with parmesan orzo, and filet mignon comes paired with a wild mushroom and baby spinach enchilada.

Alexandria, Virginia’s up-and-coming Del Rey neighborhood has emerged on the dining and nightlife map in recent years, and with good cause, thanks to places like Del Merei Grille. It’s a friendly gathering place for locals and visitors who are beginning to discover that there’s more to Alexandria than its 18th-century cobblestone streets. Start with an order of fried pickles—a Southern specialty—or beer-battered mozzarella served with spicy tomato sauce, and then choose something from the grill like filet mignon, shrimp, or scallops and jazz it up with the sauce of your choice: peppercorn brandy cream, blue cheese, dill cream, or barbecue sauce. If you don’t want to create your own meal, there are also plenty of things to choose from. Shrimp is sautéed with mushrooms and andouille sausage and served over creamy cheese garlic grits with a Cajun cream sauce. Braised barbecued ribs are paired with collard greens and home-baked macaroni and cheese.

In the Washington, D.C., metropolitan area, Five Guys is synonymous with hamburgers. It’s just what you want in a burger joint: juicy burgers, available in regular and “little” sizes that are large enough to satisfy most appetites. Pay a little extra to top it with bacon and cheese, then make it your own with free toppings like fried onions, sautéed mushrooms, and jalapeno peppers. Not in the mood for a burger? There are also hot dogs, veggie burgers, and gooey grilled cheese sandwiches. Split a heaping order of hand-cut fries, cooked in peanut oil and served boardwalk style or doused in Cajun spice. While this is the local chain’s flagship location, you’ll find other locations in Arlington, Chantilly, D.C., and elsewhere in the mid-Atlantic.

It’s easy to drive right past this Falls Church eatery. It’s tucked into a suburban strip mall located near busy Leesburg Pike. The two-level restaurant is developing a regional reputation as a fine choice for savory Mediterranean fare. Sit down and feast on fresh flat bread, perfectly paired with fruity olive oil. While you’ll likely recognize the names of many dishes on the menu, you’ll be amazed by the preparations. Calamari are doused in a beurre blanc sauce, flavored with herbs and shallots. You can’t go wrong with lamb dishes or hearty pastas, topped with tasty pesto- and tomato-based sauces.

Ask any steak lover in the region for a dinner recommendation, and they’re likely to point you to Ray’s. It’s located in an unassuming Arlington shopping center, but it’s not uncommon to find a throng of hungry customers waiting to get in. The steaks are delicious, hand-procured, butchered, and aged by proprietor Michael Landrum. While the tender meats get top billing here, it’s easy to fall in love with side dishes like creamy spinach and buttery mashed potatoes. It’s also easy to find an affordable bottle of wine to pair with the choice cuts of meat.

Fine dining hit its stride in Old Town Alexandria when Restaurant Eve appeared on the scene. Cathal Armstrong, voted chef of the year by the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington and one of the country’s best new chefs by Food & Wine, has earned acclaim for this cozy American bistro. Sign up for the five- or nine-course tasting menu in the Chef’s Tasting Room or craft your own menu in the comfortable bistro. Specialties include veal sweetbreads with porcinis, new potatoes and garlic, and soft-shell crabs with tomatoes and avocado emulsion. Desserts are decadent and divine. One of the best sellers: a mini-birthday cake covered in pink frosting and sprinkles.

If you book a table at Southside 815, there’s not much chance that you’ll leave hungry. The Old Town Alexandria restaurant is known for its generous servings of Southern classics served at affordable prices. Start your meal with a basket of fresh-baked buttermilk and sweet potato biscuits or an order of fried pickles, then move on to main courses like grilled pork chops smothered in apple chutney, drunken pot roast, or baby back ribs. For dessert, dive into the luscious peach pound cake topped with vanilla ice cream and warm caramel sauce.

Metropolitan Washington, D.C.’s vegetarian community has fallen for the Sunflower, and with good cause. The food is delicious enough to trick carnivores into enjoying it, and the service is warm and inviting. Start your meal off with an order of edamame, seasoned with a tasty bouquet of spices and salts. Main dishes come with a serving of healthy brown rice. Some of our favorites include “Sweet and Sour Sensation,” a vegetarian interpretation of sweet-and-sour pork made with soy protein, “Songbird,” an interesting take on kung pao chicken, and “General Tso’s Surprise,” a delectable interpretation of General Tso’s chicken. Wash it down with a glass of homemade lemonade, sweetened with honey. Don’t understand all of the healthy ingredients on the menu? There’s a glossary that sheds some light on some of the trickier terms.

Arlington’s Clarendon neighborhood is earning a reputation among the culinary minded, thanks to dining hot spots like Tallula. Wine plays a key role in the menu here, served in tumblers to show their colors and characteristics in the best possible light. And because many of the bottles are reasonably priced, it’s a good excuse to try out New World vintages that are uncommon in other D.C. restaurants. Some of the starters are designed to be shared or relished in two-bite servings. Among the main courses, the diver scallops with braised pork belly and sweet corn puree and bison short ribs are interesting choices. If you’re not a fan of meat, check out the enticing vegetarian menu.

Northeastern Virginia: Borderland

HISTORIC SITES

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST

Northern Virginia Forts

ACCOMMODATIONS

RESTAURANTS