The Peninsula: On to Richmond!
“Our neighbors are in a very strong position,” Major General George McClellan wrote of his Confederate opponents at Yorktown, Virginia, in April 1862. “I cannot turn Yorktown without a battle, in which I must use heavy artillery & go through the preliminary operations of siege.” It was a letter that would have drawn angry catcalls from McClellan’s opponents in Washington and hails of laughter from the few Rebels in the works opposite his own. With more than 100,000 well-trained and well-supplied Federals under his command, the wary McClellan had halted his drive for Richmond in the face of perhaps 20,000 Confederates. Instead of unleashing his considerable power, he pent it up behind massive earthen fortifications and laid siege to the town. For a month his coiled army waited, while Major General John Magruder vacated the town under his nose.
And so began McClellan’s promising Peninsula Campaign, a drive that—had it been under the control of a more aggressive officer—might have ended the war in 1862. Rather than approaching the Confederate capital from the north, McClellan convinced Abraham Lincoln to accept a more elaborate strategy (with minor modifications): He would transport his huge army south by water, and then march it up the Virginia Peninsula to threaten Richmond from the east. McClellan put his 105,000 men and equipment ashore at Fort Monroe, and in April marched north.
Map of the Union earthworks in front of Richmond, April 1862
Battle of Williamsburg, May 1862
After his “grand victory” at Yorktown, McClellan pushed his massive and sharp-looking Army of the Potomac up the Peninsula. Lead elements of his army engaged in a sharp fight with Johnston’s retreating Confederates at Williamsburg on May 5. The advance continued northeast, until McClellan was just 6 miles from Richmond. When heavy rains stranded two of McClellan’s corps north of the swollen Chickahominy River, Johnston lashed out at the Federals at Seven Pines. The two sides fought to a bloody draw, but—of more importance—Johnston fell with a bullet in his shoulder. The next day, President Jefferson Davis gave Johnston’s command to Robert E. Lee, who had no intention of allowing the army to remain on its heels.
Lee assigned the two corps of his Army of Northern Virginia to major generals Thomas Jackson and James Longstreet. Then, assured by his dashing cavalry commander, Major General J. E. B. Stuart, that McClellan’s right flank was open, Lee left a defending force at Richmond and marched east with some 45,000 Rebels. After a brief clash at Oak Grove on June 25, Lee attacked the now-withdrawing Federals at Mechanicsville on June 26, Gaines’ Mill on the 27th, then at Garnett’s Farm, Savage’s Station, Glendale, and Malvern Hill in succession. In this last clash, devastating Yankee artillery fire shredded waves of Confederate attackers, spurring futile requests from McClellan’s subordinates to counterattack. But the commanding general, who had long since abandoned a campaign while on the brink of complete victory, was too intent on “saving” his army. After leading his army back to Harrison’s Landing, McClellan was relieved of it altogether, in favor of (briefly) John Pope.
Battle of Dam No. 1
13650 Jefferson Ave.
Newport News, VA
The entrance to this battlefield park sits just behind the Newport News Visitor Center. If you’re up for a good hike, it’s interesting to follow the April 16, 1862, battle, where McClellan’s only real attempt to break Magruder’s lines was handily rebuffed by Confederate forces. The Confederate fortifications in this park are very well preserved, and a well-marked trail describes the battle action in detail. The park is open daily; a small museum on-site is open seasonally.
Berkeley Plantation
12602 Harrison Landing Rd.
Charles City, VA
(804) 829-6018
(888) 466-6018
Although this historic plantation isn’t quite on the peninsula, situated between Williamsburg and Richmond, we’ve included it in this chapter because it was McClellan’s final stop, the supply headquarters where the troops gathered to assess the damages and triumphs of the campaign. The military bugle call “Taps” was composed here during this time. Beyond its Civil War significance, Berkeley Plantation is a must-see for any American history enthusiast. Built in the 1600s, the plantation was the site of the first Thanksgiving celebration and was the birthplace of President William Henry Harrison.
Casemate Museum
20 Bernard Rd.
Fort Monroe, VA
(757) 788-3391
The largest moat-encircled masonry fort in the United States, Fort Monroe was built between 1819 and 1834 to protect the entrance to Hampton Roads and the port cities located nearby. If you’re exploring the Peninsula Campaign, the Casemate Museum is a great starting point. In May 1861, mere weeks after the first shots were fired on Fort Sumter, three slaves escaped from the peninsula fortifications, to which they were assigned, to this Union fortification. Union major general Benjamin F. Butler refused to return the slaves to their owner, suggesting that the Fugitive Slave Act did not apply in a foreign country, which Virginia was claiming to be. Prior to the war, Robert E. Lee was assigned here as the post engineer. The fort was never taken by the South during the war. As part of the Fort Monroe tour, you can also take a boat over to Fort Wool (in season), an island fort which was used by Union forces against the Confederate forts at Norfolk during the campaign. The Casemate Museum outlines the history of the fort, highlighting the area where ex-Confederate president Jefferson Davis was imprisoned after the war. Admission is free.
Congress and Cumberland Overlook, Christopher Newport Park
2500 W. Ave.
Newport News, VA
(757) 247-8523
The first major naval battle in Hampton Roads took place March 8, 1862, when the 30-gun, wooden USS Cumberland and its likewise wooden sister vessel, the 50-gun USS Congress, clashed with the CSS Virginia. The Virginia was formerly known as the USS Merrimack, a steam frigate whose hull was cut down to the waterline and covered with 4 inches of iron plate. The ship was also fitted with a 6-foot, 1,500-pound iron ram. The Virginia rammed the Cumberland, quickly sinking the ship and the 121 sailors aboard. Watching its cannon shot merely bounce off the ironclad ship, the Congress surrendered, handing the Confederate navy a fantastic victory. Interpretive plaques offer more insights into the day’s events.
Endview Plantation
362 Yorktown Rd.
Newport News, VA
(757) 887-1862
Endview was used first by the Confederacy and later by the Union as a hospital, but even prior to the Peninsula Campaign, it had already witnessed a fair amount of military action in the Revolutionary War and during the War of 1812. Nevertheless, the circa-1769 house was reconstructed to its appearance during the Civil War era, which remains the focus of many of its interpretive programs and living history activities. It is open for tours; hours vary by season.
Fort Norfolk
810 Front St.
Norfolk, VA
(757) 640-1720
www.norfolkhistorical.org/fort/index.html
The last of 19 harbor-front forts commissioned by George Washington, Fort Norfolk helped protect the port city during the War of 1812. In the Civil War, the fort was occupied by both sides. Confederates used its magazines to arm the Virginia prior to its battle with the Monitor. Union forces claimed the fort back later the same year and used it as a prison. Tours are free.
Hampton History Museum
120 Old Hampton Lane
Hampton, VA
(757) 727-1610
www.hampton.va.us/history_museum
Opened in 2003, the Hampton History Museum traces more than four centuries of local history through 10 fascinating galleries, including one with a special emphasis on the Civil War era. Visitors explore the importance of Fort Monroe and the nearby Battle of Big Bethel through displays and artifacts. The port of Hampton sustained considerable damage during the Civil War, burned by Confederate loyalists on August 7, 1861, to prevent it from falling into Union hands. Near the museum, St. John’s Church, built in 1728, is the only building to partially survive the fire.
Lee Hall Mansion
163 Yorktown Rd.
Newport News, VA
(757) 888-3371
Confederate commanders Johnston and Magruder used this elegant 1850s mansion as their headquarters at the height of the action. The last large plantation house of its era in the region, today Lee Hall is home to a museum that interprets the actions and activities of the Peninsula Campaign. Many of the house’s public rooms—including a formal dining room, music room, ladies’ parlor, and two bedrooms—have been carefully restored to their antebellum glory. In the English basement, you’ll find exhibits related to the campaign, such as a tablecloth recovered from the Monitor and artifacts recovered from nearby battlefields. The museum also serves as a starting point for bus tours of local Civil War sites; check the Web site for more information. Museum hours vary by season.
Lee’s Mill Battlefield Park
180 River’s Ridge Circle
Newport News, VA
(757) 247-8523
Lee’s Mill was the site of the first notable exchange during the Peninsula Campaign. General George McClellan and his Union forces left nearby Young’s Mill on April 5, 1862, and were met with more than 1,800 Confederate soldiers and massive earthen fortifications at Lee’s Mill, prompting McClellan to lay siege to the Confederates’ Yorktown-Warwick defense line. Trails and interpretive signs in the park outline each side’s positions during the brief skirmish.
The Mariners’ Museum & USS Monitor Center
100 Museum Dr.
Newport News, VA
(757) 596-2222
Long one of the nation’s top maritime outfits, the Mariners’ Museum opened the new USS Monitor Center just in time to mark the 145th anniversary of the ironclad’s epic battle with the CSS Virginia. The Monitor, which foundered and sank off Cape Hatteras on December 31, 1962, was discovered in 1973. While the bulk of the vessel remains on the ocean floor—protected by her status as a National Marine Sanctuary—the Monitor’s massive Dahlgren guns and gun carriages, turret, steam engine, propeller, anchor, and hundreds of other artifacts have been raised from the deep in recent years.
The centerpiece of the museum is the fantastic full-size replica of the ironclad. The museum also offers a battle theater and state-of-the-art exhibits designed to tell the story of the Monitor from her birth through her discovery, recovery, and conservation. Already a must-see for history buffs, the Mariners’ Museum has added a unique jewel that any Civil War buff will want to see and experience. The museum is wheelchair accessible.
Monitor-Merrimack Overlook
Anderson Park
Sixteenth St. and Oak Ave.
Newport News, VA
(757) 247-8523
Anderson Park, located on the tip of the peninsula, offers a perfect view of the site where the two legendary ironclads clashed on March 9, 1862, forever changing naval warfare. The USS Monitor charged into the waters surrounding Newport News in the aftermath of the sinking of the USS Cumberland and the surrender of the USS Congress. The two ironclads fired shells at each other for hours, yet neither managed to cause much damage on the other.
Nauticus and Hampton Roads Naval History Museum
One Waterside Dr.
Norfolk, VA
(757) 664-1000
Hampton Roads’s maritime history comes to life in this 120,000-square-foot science center. The Civil War is just one of the topics explored at this maritime center, whose focus ranges from sharks and aquatic life to meteorology to naval warfare. The Hampton Roads Naval History Museum, located on the second floor of the museum complex, pays careful attention to the battle of the Monitor and the Virginia, along with other Civil War exchanges. The museum is also responsible for the operations of the Battleship Wisconsin, docked in the harbor and considered part of the center. Admission to the Naval History Museum and the Wisconsin is free. Museum hours vary by season.
Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum
2 High St.
Portsmouth, VA
(757) 393-8591
Portsmouth is home to the oldest naval shipyard in the United States, the Gosport Navy Yard. Confederates took command of the yard on April 21, 1861, and used it to convert the USS Merrimac into the ironclad CSS Virginia. In later years, Gosport would also see the construction of the Texas, the country’s first battleship, and the Langley, the world’s first aircraft carrier. A permanent exhibition at the museum focuses on the history of Portsmouth and the Gosport Navy Yard, focusing on the country’s pivotal early years, 1785– 1840. Admission includes entry to the Lightship Portsmouth.
Seven Days’ Battle Sites
(See Richmond National Battlefield Park in the Confederate Capital chapter)
The Seven Days’ Battle refers to offensive action by Robert E. Lee, which forced Union troops to retreat back to the James River in June–July 1862. Many of the places that saw action—including Drewry’s Bluff, Beaver Dam Creek, Gaines’ Mill, Savage’s Station, Glendale, and Malvern Hill—are considered part of the Richmond National Battlefield Park, due to their location between the Peninsula and the Confederate capital.
Virginia War Museum
9285 Warwick Blvd.
Newport News, VA
(757) 247-8523
This local museum displays more than 50,000 artifacts from wars fought on Virginia soil from 1775 to the present. With so many Civil War battles waged in Virginia, it’s no surprise to find a sizable part of the exhibit space and artifacts dedicated to the war, plus the antebellum era and the aftermath. It’s also a good place to check for living history programs and Civil War sites tours.
Miss Hampton II
710 Settlers Landing Rd.
Hampton, VA
(757) 722-9102
To truly appreciate the history that transpired in these tide-water ports, your best bet may be to see the sights from the water. From Hampton, hop on board the Miss Hampton II, which offers daily (twice daily during the summer) tours of Hampton Roads. The two-and-a-half-hour tour shows off the historic Chesapeake Bay and even includes a stop at Fort Wool, opposite Fort Monroe, in season (weather permitting).
| Aldrich House Bed and Breakfast | $$$–$$$$ |
505 Capitol Court
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 229-5422
(877) 745-0887
While most of the Civil War attractions listed in this section are located to the east of Williamsburg, we’ve included some lodging and dining options in the area. By stationing yourself in Williamsburg for a few days, you’ll be within a short drive of not only the peninsula, but also Richmond and Petersburg. You’ll also have access to some of southern Virginia’s top accommodations, restaurants, and other historical attractions. Located just a few blocks from Colonial Williamsburg, Tom and Sue Patton’s Aldrich House is a great choice for family travelers who prefer the intimacy of a B&B. There are three spacious, elegantly appointed rooms, one with its own fireplace and one with a whirlpool tub. Cat lovers (and those with allergies) should be aware that KC, the resident cat, has free rein throughout the house. Breakfast is delightful, featuring fresh fare like eggs, pancakes, and fruit salad.
| Boxwood Inn | $$–$$$$ |
10 Elmhurst St.
Historic Lee Hall Village
Newport News, VA
(757) 888-8854
This small and charming, 1896 bed-and-breakfast in the heart of Virginia’s Historic Triangle offers friendly service, queen-size beds, private baths, and antique furnishings at bargain prices. Military history buffs may want to stay in the room that once played host to General John J. Pershing and other military officers stationed at nearby Fort Eustis during World War I and II. Lee Hall Mansion, used by John Magruder and Joseph E. Johnston as headquarters during the Peninsula Campaign, is just a half-mile away. The inn offers not only a continental breakfast, but an “early bird” to-go basket if you want to get an early start to a busy day of sightseeing, or a “sleepy head” breakfast for late risers. If you don’t spend the night here, consider coming by for dinner. The Boxwood Inn produces a regular lineup of themed dinner shows: a plantation dinner featuring the South’s finest, a 1940s-themed buffet of victory garden classics, murder mysteries, Dickensian Christmas celebrations, and more.
| Cedars Bed and Breakfast | $$$$ |
616 Jamestown Rd.
Williamsburg, VA
(800) 296-3591
With 10 rooms and suites, Cedars is not only the biggest B&B in Williamsburg, but also one of the best in the South. The Georgian-style mansion was built in the 1930s using bricks collected by schoolchildren from the demolition of a century-old building on the nearby campus of the College of William & Mary. History buffs will love the location, a mere seven-minute walk to Colonial Williamsburg. A bountiful breakfast is served each morning, featuring entrees like eggs Florentine, blueberry French toast, and peach cobbler, and the refrigerator and common areas are stocked with snacks for midday noshing. Amenities range from central air, fireplaces, and mini-refrigerators to private baths and wireless Internet access.
| Glencoe Inn | $$$–$$$$ |
222 North St.
Portsmouth, VA
(757) 397-8128
Further down the peninsula, the charming town of Portsmouth puts you in easy driving distance of Hampton and Newport News, but also within 30 miles of the inviting sandy coastline of Virginia Beach. Portsmouth’s Glencoe Inn is historic and romantic, situated alongside the Elizabeth River in the heart of the Portsmouth historic district. The innkeeper, Ann McGowan McGlynn, carries a Scottish theme throughout the four-bedroom Victorian-style property. Rooms are affordably priced, outfitted with comfortable beds, private baths, and postcard-perfect views of the surrounding harbor and gardens. Some even feature kitchenettes and Jacuzzis.
| Lady Neptune Bed & Breakfast | $$$$ |
507 N. First St.
Hampton, VA
(757) 848-5877
This 1930s-era house was narrowly spared from demolition in 1988 when development pressures threatened the land on which it was located. Too attached to their home to watch it come down, the owners elected to have the house lifted off its foundation, placed on a large barge, and carried across the Chesapeake to its new home in Hampton. There are four clean and comfortable guest rooms, each appointed with a four-poster, queen-size bed. For breakfast, you can expect a generous buffet loaded with Southern classics like fried catfish, Chesapeake crab eggs Benedict, shrimp, grits, and eggs. The inn also puts together special packages with pampering treats for romantic getaways or theme park and attractions tickets for family vacations.
| Magnolia House Bed & Breakfast | $$$$ |
232 S. Armistead Ave.
Hampton, VA
(757) 722-2888
This impeccably furnished bed-and-breakfast offers a delightful stay in historic Hampton and provides easy access to the other towns and attractions on and around the peninsula. Hosts Joyce and Lankford Blair are warm and hospitable, eager to help you with sightseeing suggestions, information, and, of course, a delicious breakfast each morning. Rooms are beautifully decorated with art and accents that match the historic character of the house, plus luxurious linens, terry robes and slippers, wireless Internet, and other amenities.
| Williamsburg Inn | $$$$ |
136 E. Francis St.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 253-2277
If you want to treat yourself to luxurious accommodations as you explore the peninsula—and you’re prepared to pay prices that match—book a room at the legendary Williamsburg Inn. It’s here that Queen Elizabeth II stayed during her 2007 visit to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the founding of Jamestown (and, incidentally, it’s where she stayed during her 1957 visit for the 350th anniversary as well). The 62 guest rooms in the main hotel are large and tastefully decorated, featuring bathrooms with granite sinks, marble floors, and wonderful soaking tubs, plus free wireless Internet and other posh amenities. Perhaps the inn’s best selling point, however, is its location in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg, and golfers will find its surrounding course to be both beautiful and challenging. If an overnight stay here isn’t in your budget, however, it’s also a great choice for afternoon tea service.
| A Williamsburg White House | $$$$ |
Bed and Breakfast Inn
718 Jamestown Rd.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 229-8580
(866) 229-8580
www.awilliamsburgwhitehouse.com
Billing itself as the “Williamsburg White House,” this historic B&B takes its name quite literally. Each room—even the dining room and the library—bears the name of a former commander in chief. Civil War travelers may opt for the Lincoln Suite, which features his-and-hers private baths and a king-size four-poster bed (but be wary of the adjacent Ford’s Theatre sitting room). Slightly smaller rooms are named and decorated in honor of Washington, Jefferson, and Theodore Roosevelt. You’re also given executive privilege to linger in the Diplomatic Reception Room, the Reagan Dining Room, or the Kennedy Library as you enjoy complimentary drinks and hors d’oeuvres in the afternoon. For breakfast, you’ll enjoy decadent pastries, quiches, frittatas, and other tasty creations. Colonial Williamsburg is a quick walk away, and the peninsula Civil War sites are easily reachable with an hour’s drive.
| Bill’s Seafood House | $ |
10900 Warwick Blvd.
Newport News, VA
(757) 595-4320
You won’t find any seafood restaurant gimmicks here—not even a waterside location. But if you’re curious where locals go to taste fresh catches from the surrounding bay, this is it. Feast on generous portions of fried flounder, homemade hush puppies, delicious crab cakes, and other fresh and flavorful classics. There’s no need to dress up to dine at this comfortable family-friendly eatery, located near the Mariners’ Museum.
| Fat Canary | $$$ |
410 Duke of Gloucester St.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 229-3333
Fat Canary consistently earns rave reviews as one of Colonial Williamsburg’s top culinary attractions—and for that reason you may wish to make a reservation in advance. The menu is constantly changing to reflect what’s fresh and in season, and given chef Thomas Power’s diverse culinary experience, you never know what to expect. Try something unique like sea scallops in coconut curry or soft-shell crabs. The Fat Canary shares its location with The Cheese Shop, a great place to pick up a sandwich or snack to go.
| Second St. | $$ |
140 Second St.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 220-2286
An “American Bistro” and a Williamsburg mainstay, Second St. sports the look of a converted foundry or a community brew pub—but with much better food, including a burger voted Williamsburg’s best. Beyond the burgers, you’ll find a menu stocked with all sorts of American classics: meatloaf, shrimp and grits, and a hearty pile of jumbo lump crab meat served with au gratin potatoes and garlic spinach. Desserts like carrot cake and sticky bun bread pudding are designed to be shared.
| Shields Tavern | $$ |
422 E. Duke of Gloucester St.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 229-2141
One of four taverns operated by the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Shields Tavern is a combination coffeehouse/tavern. During the day, it’s a great place for a pick-me-up cappuccino or a light bite like egg custard or Smithfield honey ham biscuits. During the evening, the tavern side becomes more prominent as diners enjoy Welsh rarebit, Yorkshire beef patties, and other period classics. Hours change seasonally; it’s best to call in advance.
| Surf Rider Restaurant | $$ |
1 Marina Rd.
Hampton, VA
(757) 723-9366
Although it’s not easy to locate, this out-of-the-way eatery serves up some of the region’s finest seafood, including delectable lump crab cakes, fried shrimp, and scallops, oysters, and soft-shell crabs in season. It’s often packed with locals, which should always be a good sign that you’ve successfully stepped beyond the tourist scene. While the seafood is bound to please, you also shouldn’t pass on their signature vegetable, a gigantic broccoli stalk, perfectly cooked and paired with hollandaise sauce. There’s plenty for two or more to share. An added bonus: You can take in the glorious view of the marina through the floor-to-ceiling windows.
| The Trellis | $$$ |
403 Duke of Gloucester St.
Williamsburg, VA
(757) 229-8610
A longtime favorite restaurant for special occasions, The Trellis serves regional fare that changes regularly to make the most of what’s in season. Look for light and flavorful salads in summer and hearty soups and roasted vegetables in winter. When it comes to main courses, you won’t go wrong with a fresh seafood selection or succulent cuts of meat, best when paired with healthy side dishes like bourbon-braised peaches or saffron-infused rice. For chocolate lovers, dessert is a must; The Trellis is famous for its “Death by Chocolate” cake.