The Big Book of CIVIL WAR SITES

For a few months during the spring of 1861, Montgomery, Alabama, was the capital of the Confederacy. Had it remained there, the war likely would have been fought much differently. For reasons of military and political expedience, however, the Confederate government relocated to Richmond in July. From then on, the Rebel defense of that city—and Federal attempts to capture it—came to represent the Confederacy’s struggle for survival. Entire Union campaigns revolved around its capture until 1864, when Ulysses S. Grant’s siege of Petersburg made its fall inevitable.

One of the South’s top manufacturing cities prior to 1861, wartime Richmond housed one of the nation’s top makers of ammunition and railroad steel (Tredegar Iron Works) along with multiple hospital facilities (such as the massive Chimborazo Hospital) within its protective line of earthen fortifications. Its citizens suffered increasingly as the war ground on, as prices multiplied and food grew scarce. Fiercely protected for four years, Richmond fell within hours of Petersburg’s capture on April 3, 1865. Shortly after, a massive fire scalded the city, leaving much of downtown an ashen skeleton of its former self. And while Washingtonians greeted news of the city’s fall with wild celebrations, weary Richmond residents cringed. “The saddest moment of my life,” one Virginian said, “was when I saw that Southern Cross dragged down and the Stars and Stripes run up above the capitol.”

Jefferson Davis

Jefferson Davis with his family

A senator from Mississippi and a former secretary of war (under President Franklin Pierce), Jefferson Davis was also a Mexican War veteran, and he longed for a field command in the new Confederate Army. Instead, he was selected as the Confederacy’s first president.

During four years of civil war, both the Union and Confederate governments suffered from internal political squabbling—the kind of infighting that affected military policy and, ultimately, success on the battlefield. Forced to handle ambitious politicians such as William Seward and Simon Cameron, Abraham Lincoln proved to have an amazingly deft political touch. Jefferson Davis had it at least as bad in Richmond, dealing with a recalcitrant Congress and cabinet while mediating constant and legendary feuds among his generals, and often between officers (such as Joseph E. Johnston) and himself. (Davis went through six secretaries of war in four years.) Cold and impersonal with anyone outside of his family, Davis lacked both the disarming charm and management skills of his Washington counterpart. “He did not know the arts of the politician,” his wife Varina wrote of him, “and would not practice them if understood.”

The fall of Richmond left the Confederate government on the run. Davis was eventually captured and shipped off to prison at Fortress Monroe, where he languished for two years. He was never charged with anything, however, and eventually resettled in Mississippi, where he died in 1889. Davis was buried in Richmond’s Hollywood Cemetery.

HISTORIC SITES

The American Civil War Center is a great starting point for a Civil War odyssey. It’s the only facility of its kind to tell the story of the war from three perspectives: Northern, Southern, and African-American. Each side’s contributions, principles, battles, and leaders are woven together in the flagship permanent exhibition, In the Cause of Liberty, housed in the 1861 Tredegar Ironworks Gun Foundry. Start your visit with an introductory film, What Caused the Civil War?, to brush up on the historical basics. The Richmond Civil War Visitor Center is located on the site as well.

Constructed in 1887 by Confederate veterans, this chapel honors fallen soldiers who fought for the Southern cause. It’s now operated by the Sons of Confederate Veterans. The chapel’s unusual mosaic stained-glass windows make it worth a visit for art and architecture lovers.

The burial site of presidents James Monroe and John Tyler, beautiful Hollywood Cemetery is better known to Civil War folk as the resting place of George Pickett (and a number of Gettysburg victims), J. E. B. Stuart, Fitzhugh Lee, and Confederate president Jefferson Davis.

Monument Avenue is the only street in the United States that’s also a National Historic Landmark. Development of the avenue began in 1890, following the dedication of a monument to Robert E. Lee. Other Confederate notables honored with statues along the 5-mile street include Jefferson Davis, J. E. B. Stuart, Stonewall Jackson, and Matthew Fontaine Maury. Between the monuments, you’ll also find beautiful, elaborate homes in a variety of architectural styles.

For more than 100 years this museum has been the place to go to learn about all things Confederate, from the brief history of the Confederate nation through the fabled idea of the Lost Cause. Today the museum boasts three floors of exhibits, an unmatched collection of Confederacy-related artifacts (including the original Confederate White House located next door), a research library, and a museum store. Among the objects on permanent display here are the original oil painting, The Last Meeting of Lee and Jackson, and the first-ever Army of Northern Virginia battle flag.

Museum hours vary by season, and it is wheelchair accessible. Combination tickets to the museum and the White House are available at a discount.

There is plenty to see around Richmond, and much of it is packed into Richmond National Battlefield Park. Divided into 13 separate areas, this massive park incorporates a number of battlefield sites that could easily stand as parks on their own. Visitors should plan to spend a couple of days in the area, as the park boasts dozens of miles of original (and elaborate) field fortifications, self-guided trails, and several museums and visitor centers.

The first stop on a visit here should be at the Richmond Civil War Visitor Center at Tredegar Iron Works (490 Tredegar Street), a fantastic, three-floor collection of exhibits, artifacts, interactive displays, and machinery used by Tredegar to produce much of the South’s artillery and ammunition. The center also offers maps, a CD for a Seven Days’ Battle driving tour, and a park orientation film, which only the most learned Civil War students should consider passing up.

A second major highlight of the park is the Chimborazo Medical Museum (3215 East Broad Street), a facility dedicated to the history of the hospital and Civil War medicine. A collection of original surgical instruments, exhibits, and a short film are offered at this facility, where more than 75,000 Confederate soldiers received treatment during the war.

Most of the park, of course, is comprised of battlefields and other sites, including Chickahominy Bluff, Beaver Dam Creek, Gaines’ Mill, Cold Harbor Battlefield and Visitor Center (5515 Anderson-Wright Drive), the Garthright House, Glendale Battlefield and Visitor Center (8301 Willis Church Road), Malvern Hill Battlefield, Fort Harrison (visitor center located at 8621 Battlefield Park Road), Drewry’s Bluff, and Parker’s Battery. Several of these sites have been included in other tours due to their relation to other campaigns, such as the Peninsula Campaign.

The park battlefields are open free of charge from sunrise to sunset. Visitor centers at Tredegar Iron Works, Chimborazo, and Cold Harbor are open daily. The Glendale and Fort Harrison visitor centers maintain the same hours, from June through Aug.

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST

If you want to learn more about the history of the Richmond region, plan a stop at this museum. The centerpiece is the 1812 Wickham House, which offers a glimpse of Richmond life in the early 19th century. Other permanent exhibits explore the sculptures of museum namesake Edward Viginius Valentine and offer a glimpse of the residents who have called Richmond home since its settlement days. The History Center also organizes regularly scheduled bus tours and walking tours that showcase Richmond history. Admission includes entrance to the History Center, Wickham House, Monumental Church, and the John Marshall House, home to the former Supreme Court chief justice. The church is open from May through Oct.

There’s no place in the Commonwealth that boasts a collection of Virginia artifacts quite like this one, housed in a building that was once known as “Battle Abbey.” Long-term exhibits focus on Virginia history, residential life, and archaeology, but temporary exhibits occasionally focus on Civil War themes. Admission is free.

Thomas Jefferson designed the seat of Virginia’s government, now home to America’s oldest continuous representative assembly. During the Civil War, the Confederate legislature convened in the neoclassical building. The Capitol completed a major renovation—its first since 1906—in time for the Jamestown 400th anniversary celebration and Queen Elizabeth II’s 2007 visit. Admission is free.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Follow a lamp-lit cobblestone road to this charming boutique hotel in the Shockoe Slip neighborhood, one of Richmond’s most popular destinations for eclectic dining, shopping, and nightlife. While the hotel does its part to blend in with the surrounding historic neighborhood through design and decor, it was actually constructed in 1988. Its 56 rooms are quite spacious and outfitted with amenities like wireless Internet and in-room coffeemakers, along with service befitting its AAA four-diamond rating. If you haven’t gotten enough exercise walking the battlefields, you can also take advantage of gym privileges at a nearby YMCA.

The Grace Manor Inn takes the B&B experience to new heights. “Let us pamper you” is the motto around here, and innkeepers Dawn and Albert Schick (and their three pet Yorkies) do their part to live up to the promise. Their 1910 Victorian house, located in the Fan District, is a delightful retreat after a long day of sightseeing. They’ve thought of everything—even bubble bath in the bathroom. You’ll be treated to a sampler of cheeses and a complimentary bottle of wine, perfect for savoring on the second-floor balcony overlooking picturesque gardens. Of course, a gourmet breakfast awaits you in the morning and fresh-baked cookies are on hand for an afternoon snack.

A National Historic Landmark, Jefferson is a grand place, boasting nearly 300 rooms, a five-diamond restaurant, and top-of-the-line service. It’s the best hotel in the region, hands down, and a great choice for an on-the-road splurge. The Jefferson was built in 1895 at the whopping cost of nearly $10 million by Lewis Ginter, who served in the Confederate Army, and then later made a fortune in the tobacco industry. The luxurious hotel narrowly survived a fire at the turn of the century and, after a few fashionable decades, eventually fell into disrepair in the 1950s and 1960s, closing in 1980. It reopened in 1983 following a $34 million renovation. Rooms are large and elegantly furnished to match the circa-1895 character of the hotel. Step into the lobby, and you’ll be greeted by a life-size marble sculpture of Mr. Jefferson himself, carved by Richmond sculptor Edward Valentine prior to the hotel’s opening. For many guests, however, the dramatic, 36-step spiral staircase is the prime attraction, reminiscent of Gone with the Wind. The hotel’s on-site fine-dining restaurant, Lemaire, serves outstanding American cuisine, or guests can take advantage of the Jefferson’s complimentary shuttle service for more nearby dining options.

Located in historic downtown Richmond within walking distance of the state capitol, the circa-1840 Linden Row Inn reflects European styling while offering Southern hospitality. The inn keeps true to its historic setting with architectural features like high ceilings, fireplaces, and elegant Victorian decor. At the same time, its 70 spacious rooms (and 7 suites) feature modern conveniences such as high-speed Internet service, newly remodeled bathrooms, complimentary continental breakfast, and premium TV channels at very reasonable prices.

The circa-1871 West-Bocock House blends the charms of the country with the conveniences of the city. You’ll fall asleep on luxurious French linens in an antique four-poster bed and wake up to a plantation-style breakfast in the morning. At the same time, you’re just footsteps away from Richmond’s dynamic restaurant and nightlife scene. Innkeeper Billie Rees West goes out of her way to show her guests the true meaning of Southern hospitality. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably priced.

Built in 1845, this B&B lacks the frills of some of the other properties listed in this guide, but it’s clean, quiet, and comfortable, located in the Church Hill neighborhood. There are seven guest rooms, including a couple of two-bedroom suites, all furnished with antiques to match the historic setting. The Shockoe Slip neighborhood is just a few minutes away, with great shopping, dining, and nightlife options.

This cozy B&B is a fantastic find, nestled among lovely Victorian homes in the historic Fan District. Named for its first owner, the Greek-Revival-style home was built just after the Civil War. Both guest bedrooms are colorfully furnished—one with a king-size bed and one with a queen-size bed—and outfitted with a full private bathroom. Co-owner (and accomplished chef) Mike Rohde prepares sumptuous breakfast creations like orange-poppyseed waffles with blueberry sauce or scrambled eggs with Boursin cheese.

RESTAURANTS

What was once a turn-of-the-century Richmond bank is now home to one of the city’s hottest dining destinations. The space itself—”Bank" refers to the dining section and “Vault” to the bar—is chic and stylish, with high ceilings and walls decorated with bright fabric paintings. On the menu, you’ll find New American cuisine, including some new takes on Southern classics. Fried green tomatoes are served with pepper maple Boursin-style cheese and pancetta. Grilled flat-iron steak is topped with cabrales cheese and paired with piquant patatas bravas. For a satisfying main dish, try the grilled double pork chop, served atop white cheddar grits with greens on the side. The wine list focuses on value, serving interesting varietals from Spain, Italy, Australia, and California.

If you’re a fan of spicy food—be it Mexican, Cajun, or Thai—book a table at this fun, roadhouse-style Richmond eatery. Caliente lives up to its name, specializing in anything and everything that’s hot and spicy. Even the decor is red, decorated with peppers and bottled hot sauces for diners in need of an extra kick. Start with a jerk chicken quesadilla or buffalo gator bites, made with fried alligator tail. Move on to main dishes like a chorizo and black bean sub, jambalaya, or coconut-crusted chicken with orange chipotle vinaigrette. Finish it off with a dessert that’s cool and refreshing, like the decadent piña colada bread pudding. Whatever you choose, you can count on it being flavorful and reasonably priced, and the outdoor patio seating is an added plus in mild weather.

You might not expect a hot new restaurant to have a simple name like Comfort, but you’ll be sorry if you pass on this one. Comfort’s menu, much like its light, airy decor, is simple and basic. At lunch, you’ll find BLTs and fried catfish sandwiches, while dinner entrees include heartier servings of meatloaf, pulled pork, rabbit, and grilled trout. For many diners, however, the side dishes are the main attractions; macaroni and cheese, baked squash casserole, black-eyed peas, and cheddar cheese grits are delectable and perfect for sharing.

A Richmond tradition for more than 20 years, Extra Billy’s is named for William Smith—the 60-something Virginia politician who led a brigade in Stonewall Jackson’s corps before becoming governor in 1864. He would be proud of his namesake restaurant, whose ribs have been rated the area’s best. A mouth-watering “Billy Burger,” plate of honey-glazed ribs, or sizzling spit-roasted half-chicken will more than satisfy Civil War buffs fresh from the battlefields of Richmond.

Perhaps the top seafood restaurant in all of Richmond, The Hard Shell offers a luscious selection of the freshest oysters, clams, lobster, clams, and more. But there are plenty of delicious items on the menu for non-seafood eaters, such as filet mignon, ribs, and even vegetarian dishes. A nice wine list complements the dinner menu, and a wedge of the restaurant’s key lime pie tops off any meal. Its location in Shockoe Slip makes it a good starting point for a night on the town.

If you’re a fan of Italian cuisine, you won’t want to miss a meal at the intimate La Grotta, a below-ground restaurant located in Shockoe Slip. A popular “special occasion” choice for locals, don’t be surprised to find diners celebrating prom night, birthdays, anniversaries, or even engagements. Nevertheless, you won’t feel out of place if you didn’t pack a jacket and tie. The menu is loaded with Italian favorites like gnocchi, veal scallopine, and osso bucco, served with lovely focaccia and hard-crusted Italian bread. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with profiteroles or ricotta cheesecake.

Beer lovers should pay a visit to Legend Brewing Company, the oldest and largest microbrewery in central Virginia. The brewery makes nine varieties of beer, including the Legend Brown Ale, the most popular variety, flavored with caramel and malt. While the handcrafted beers are the draw for beer lovers, Legend is also a good choice for a light meal. Beer-friendly appetizers range from basics like soft pretzels and bratwursts to complex pairings like barbecue strawberry duck crepes with mushroom ceviche. Choose from main dishes like ribs, burgers, crab cakes, and bratwurst paired with German potato salad, plus a full selection of classic desserts.

Opened in 1989, Millie’s is one of Richmond’s best-loved eateries, fashioned after a 1950s-style diner but known for its innovative, upscale cuisine prepared in an open kitchen. The restaurant is housed in the former turn-of-the-century building that used to serve the workers who toiled in Richmond’s tobacco fields. Menus change regularly, but you can count on fresh, seasonal fare. Summertime selections might include pan-seared rockfish with zucchini gratin or spicy Thai shrimp with asparagus, shiitake, lime, and red cabbage, while heartier fare reigns supreme in the winter.

Ask a Richmond local for a restaurant pick, and they’re likely to name this popular eatery in the Fan District. It’s packed most nights of the week with diners savoring the Mediterranean, American, and Italian favorites. Share an order of hot fries, hummus and pita, or nachos to start, then choose from main courses like souvlaki, pasta, or scallops baked with feta which are nicely complemented by selections from the simple, affordable wine list.

For more than three decades, The Tobacco Company has been delighting Richmond diners with casual dining in a pleasant Victorian setting. You can expect extensive brunch, lunch, and dinner menus featuring flavorful regional fare. Sample tasty selections like zesty crab croquettes, velvety she-crab soup, crab-stuffed flounder, and prime rib. The three-story restaurant is also a popular choice for late-night entertainment, with live music in its first level. Dinner reservations are required.

The small and cozy Zeus Gallery has drawn crowds of food-loving locals and visitors to its home in the Fan District for more than a dozen years. The menu, spelled out on a chalkboard, is fresh, funky, and ever-changing, peppered with Mediterranean flavors. Look for starters like wild mushroom and Sonoma goat cheese or shrimp and chevre-stuffed wontons and main dishes like spicy dry-rubbed pork medallions with dried cherries and apricots or porcini-dusted pan-seared salmon. There are only 12 tables, however, so you’d be wise to make a reservation.

Richmond: Confederate Capital

HISTORIC SITES

OTHER SITES OF INTEREST

ACCOMMODATIONS

RESTAURANTS