The Big Book of CIVIL WAR SITES

Although his beloved, dwindling Army of Northern Virginia had been forced from its Petersburg and Richmond trenches on April 2–3, General Robert E. Lee was not quite ready to give up the fight. If his hungry army could obtain provisions and elude Union pursuit long enough to link up with General Joseph E. Johnston’s army in North Carolina, the combined Confederate force could, in turn (hopefully), confront Grant’s hordes and those of Major General William T. Sherman, whose three-wing army had by now scorched its way through Georgia and on through the Carolinas.

Lee had limited options and Grant had the resources to account for each. Marching west to Amelia Court House, Lee found ammunition rather than the rations he had ordered. Losing a day to foraging, he next found his path blocked by Philip Sheridan’s Union cavalry. Lee skirted the trouble and continued west, hoping to find rations and transportation south at Farmville. On April 6, however, elements of Grant’s army caught up with Lee’s divided rear guard near Sailor’s Creek, smashed in its center, and forced the surrender of some 8,000 Confederates—including Union nemesis Lieutenant General Richard Ewell.

Seventy-two hours later it was over. Leading his last 30,000 men west in a bid for the rail head at Lynchburg, Lee found Federal cavalry awaiting him at the village of Appomattox Court House. Early on April 9, Lee halfheartedly ordered a probe of Grant’s encircling lines, and realized that the inevitable had finally occurred. After exchanging notes with his Yankee antagonist, Lee agreed to meet with Grant to discuss surrender terms. A comfortable meeting place was found in the home of Wilmer McLean, whom Lee and an aide encountered early in the afternoon.

Dressed in a typically dusty and informal uniform, Grant entered the McLean home at about 1:30 p.m. and shook Lee’s hand. The worn-out Confederate commander looked resplendent in his best dress grays. During the afternoon, the two old West Pointers ironed out an agreement that allowed Lee’s officers to retain their sidearms, and his soldiers to return home with their horses, requiring only that they agree not to take up arms again. Grant then arranged for the delivery of rations to Lee’s disheartened soldiers. “I felt anything other than rejoicing at the downfall of a foe who had fought so long and valiantly,” Grant recalled later, “and had suffered so much for a cause.”

By late afternoon, it was all over. Although Joseph E. Johnston’s small army and other Confederate units were still active, they would not remain so for long. Lee’s surrender was the South’s death knell. After shaking hands with Union officers, many of whom he knew well from the prewar army, Lee walked slowly outside and mounted up. Grant emerged behind, and his subordinates joined him in doffing their hats as Lee rode off, returning the salute.

Wilmer McLean

Following the July 21, 1861, Battle of Bull Run, 47-year-old, Manassas, Virginia, native Wilmer McLean moved his family out of town to protect them from the violence sure to come. Prior to the battle, Confederate brigadier general P. G. T. Beauregard had commandeered McLean’s farmhouse as a headquarters; shortly after, a Union shell smashed through his kitchen. McLean sent his family south, and eventually purchased a home for them in the picturesque central Virginia village of Appomattox Court House.

On April 9, 1865, McLean encountered Confederate colonel Charles Marshall, an aide to Lee, who asked him to recommend a suitable meeting place for the opposing commanding generals. After some discussion, the bewildered McLean offered to open his own home to the generals. By early afternoon, Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee were sitting at small tables in McLean’s front parlor.

In the wake of the historic meeting, McLean found his parlor looted—rooted through for souvenirs by excited Yankee officers (some of which, at least, they paid for). The table at which Lee signed the surrender document eventually wound up in the hands of Mrs. George Armstrong Custer, a gift from Major General Philip Sheridan, who reportedly bought it from its owner. (The Smithsonian Institution now owns it.) It has since been said that the Civil War began in Wilmer McLean’s kitchen and ended in his parlor.

HISTORIC SITES

The site of Robert E. Lee’s surrender to Ulysses S. Grant on April 9, 1865, the tiny town of Appomattox is now a historical village of 27 buildings spread across 1,700 acres. The gem of the park is, of course, the Wilmer McLean House, which stands near the park visitor center. The park offers tours and audiovisual programs, and also features a 70-seat theater in which two slide shows are presented daily.

Lee’s army began to lose steam at Sailor’s Creek, and a handful of the sites that witnessed the action and the decline are open to the public. At Hillsman House, the centerpiece of the state park, Union troops plotted their attack on the Confederates stationed across the creek. Drive through the park and listen to radio interpretations of the events of April 6, 1865. Admission is free.

TOURS

Radio messages and interpretive signs at more than 25 points of interest follow the movement of Lee and his troops during the last days of action, April 2–9, 1865. As you drive through the area and spot Civil War Trails signs, tune your radio to 1600 or 1620 AM to hear commentary at sites like Namozine Church, which witnessed some action on April 3 and later served as a hospital; Amelia Springs, the site of a skirmish on April 6; and Rice’s Depot, which served as Lee’s headquarters in the final days. The Web site www.varetreat.com outlines the points of interest along the way.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Located just minutes from the site of Robert E. Lee’s surrender of his army to Ulysses S. Grant, Babcock House is at the center of all there is to see in this historic town. Built in 1884, Babcock House retains its 19th-century looks, while offering all the modern amenities. Innkeepers Jerry and Sheila Palamar pride themselves on offering “gracious hospitality and elegant dining in a friendly and informal atmosphere.” Room rates are quite reasonable, especially considering the location. If you’re staying elsewhere, make the Babcock House your stop for dinner.

While Appomattox is the real attraction for Civil War buffs who visit the region, the small town is limited in its lodging and dining options. Fortunately, Lynchburg is a short 30-minute drive away, and it presents additional options for travelers looking for a place to relax after a day of sightseeing. This popular eight-acre country-estate-turned-B&B located just outside of Lynchburg features three roomy guest suites furnished with period decor. Guests are treated to a full gourmet breakfast featuring decadent treats like brioche stuffed with eggs and fresh mushrooms, pumpkin–chocolate chip muffins, and caramel-glazed biscuits. There’s also an indoor pool on the property, and rooms are outfitted with wireless Internet, flat-screen TVs, and Bose sound systems.

Just 3 miles from the courthouse, this Tudor-style country retreat rambles across two acres with gardens, a fish pond, and spectacular forests. Guests can take advantage of common amenities like an indoor lap pool, a cozy tea room, a screened-in porch that’s perfect for nature watching, plus hammocks for lazy afternoons. The breakfast spread is loaded with homemade goodies like pancakes, quiche, and home-baked breads, plus cereals and fruits. You can rent a room or check in to the Carriage House, which also boasts a private pool and full kitchen.

This woodsy retreat is perfect for Civil War buffs who love the great outdoors and for touring groups. The three-bedroom lodge can accommodate up to 16 guests. You’ll have the run of the house, including its full kitchen, library, and sunroom. Despite its rustic setting, you’ll find the farm equipped with modern must-haves like wireless Internet and satellite TV. For a true outdoors adventure, ask about bicycle, canoe, and kayak rentals.

For a combination of indoor and outdoor relaxation (and the opportunity to really get away), it would be hard to top Spring Grove Farm Bed and Breakfast—a beautifully restored, 11-room (or suite), 16-fireplace, house on 200 acres of lush Virginia farmland. After wandering around the grounds or enjoying its gardens, guests can relax inside by enjoying a movie in the inn’s stylish media room, playing one of its two grand pianos, or spending some quiet time with a book on a porch or walking the property with one of the property’s seven dogs. Rates, which depend on the room booked, are a bit pricey, but no one could argue with the surroundings.

RESTAURANTS

If you only eat one meal in Appomattox, there’s a good chance it’ll be at Granny Bee’s. It’s the best place in town for “Yummy Home Style Cooking,” plain and simple. Breakfast and lunch specials can be had for just $4, and the dinner menu features country staples like baked ham and hamburger steak in addition to excellent steak and prime rib dinners.

Georgia-based Huddle House gets our nod in Appomattox due to its “open 24 hours” status—a plus for Civil War buffs who arrive in town late after a long day of sightseeing and driving. Tourists can relax in Huddle House’s classic diner atmosphere while plotting the next day’s itinerary over a “Big House Platter,” steak, or omelet (breakfast is served all day), all at reasonable prices.

If it’s Italian fare you’re craving, drive to Lynchburg and plan a stop at Isabella’s. It’s not your traditional Italian fare, however; you might start with a light and refreshing Italian mojito, made with limoncello, rum, club soda, and fresh basil. You’ll find inventive spins on Italian classics; a Caprese salad is prepared with grilled tomatoes, and chicken parmesan comes crusted in parmesan cheese and pepper, doused in mozzarella cream and served atop a bed of linguini with tomato and basil sauce. Garden-fresh salads come dressed up with Mediterranean accents like port wine–soaked figs or toasted hazelnuts.

Appomattox: The End

HISTORIC SITES

TOURS

ACCOMMODATIONS

RESTAURANTS