Chapter 6

Mastering Brine Pickling

Most people think of pickles as chunks of vegetables floating in vinegar, which is one type of pickle, but it’s not the only kind. Technically everything that we are talking about in this book is pickling. When we ferment and produce brine, we are generating the environment for an acidic solution that preserves.

For the purposes of this book, we will define pickles as vegetables that are either still whole or cut into larger pieces. Unlike shredded, thinly sliced, or finely diced veggies, these vegetables cannot create their own brine, so we add a prepared salt brine and submerge the vegetables in it. The vegetables suspended in the salt water begin to interact with the brine in the process of osmosis, which begins the lactic-acid fermentation process.

Remember the mantra: Submerge in brine and all will be fine. The rule is still the same: Keep those veggies submerged.

Understanding Brine

To make brine, always use the best water you can find, preferably unchlorinated spring water. Many books recommend boiling the water before making brine. When we are confident that our water source is pure, we skip this step.

You don’t want to use kosher pickling salt. It is refined and contains anti-caking agents, which do not help your pickles. We like to use salts that have a lower sodium chloride content and higher mineral content, because high-quality, unrefined salts that contain trace minerals and enzymes help your body maintain a proper balance (see chapter 3). The other benefit is the pickles taste less salty.

Pickle Facts to Impress Your Friends

For cucumbers, the ratio of salt to water is different from what is appropriate for other vegetables; it is important for proper preservation and to achieve that deli taste. This has to do with the enzymes in cucumbers that are prone to break down and soften the vegetables. Cucumber brine is 3⁄4 cup salt to a gallon of water. If you want less salt, you can experiment with reducing the amount a little, but don’t go lower than 1⁄2 cup salt to a gallon of water. On other veggies, especially roots and more dense vegetables, you can use a more dilute brine solution, which we call the Basic Brine.

Unless otherwise indicated in a recipe, these are the two main brines you’ll need throughout the recipes in this book; for both, simply stir the salt into the water until it is dissolved.

Basic Brine

Cucumber Brine

kimchi Brine

We suggest making a little more brine than you will need because when fermenting your pickles (and even once they’re stored in the fridge), you often need to top up the jar or crock to keep the vegetables submerged; keep the extra brine in the fridge for about a week.

Fermentista’s Tip

A Note on Brine Solutions with Added Vinegar

There are as many family recipes for pickles as there are grandmothers who made them. In our classes we have been asked about brine solutions that contain both salt and vinegar for fermentation. It’s important to understand that fermentation takes place naturally and beautifully without the added acid of vinegar. It’s not a good idea to use both. The salt solution is ideal for promoting the succession of ­lactic-acid bacteria. While there is a bit of ­acetic acid (vinegar) that is created during the fermentation, the ratio works. When acetic acid is introduced from the outside, the balance is disrupted and this can stunt the development of the pickles. But what about that classic bread-and-butter pickle flavor — all vinegar and sweet? This cannot be achieved by fermentation alone. Instead, ferment your cucumbers fully, remove some of the brine, and replace with a 50:50 solution of raw vinegar and honey or sugar.

Leaves

We add leaves to pickles for two reasons: to keep the veggies under the brine and to help keep veggies crisp. The leaves to use are those that contain tannins, which is what encourages crispness. We generally use horseradish or grape leaves for their size. The grape leaf is so conveniently shaped and just plain looks good. The horseradish adds a wonderful flavor; the large leaf also keeps your pickles from floating up. Other options include raspberry leaves, currant leaves, sour cherry leaves, and oak leaves. Oak leaves are high in tannins and can add a little more bitter than you are looking for, so use them sparingly. Find leaves that have not been sprayed.

These leaves all come from perennial shrubs, vines, and trees, so if you plan to pickle in the winter you might consider preserving some grape leaves just for this purpose.

About Pickle Medleys

You can use just about any vegetable to make brined pickles, just not necessarily together. There are some things to keep in mind when making medleys:

Basic Steps for Making Brine Pickles

Brine Pickles Visual Guide

  1. 1. Make the brine.
  2. 2. Cut veggies into chunks.
  3. 3. Mix veggies and spices together to distribute evenly.
  4. 4. Pack the mixture into a jar.
  5. 5. Pour in brine until veggies are submerged.
  6. 6. Place a leaf or other follower on the surface.
  7. 7. The leaf is over the veggies and below the brine.
  8. 8. Cover with lid but do not tighten. You want CO2 to escape.
  9. 9. Cover with a cloth and set aside to ferment.
  10. 10. Taste the veggies when the brine begins to appear cloudy. Often spices will settle to the bottom.
  11. 11. Finished pickles.
  12. 12. Transfer to smaller jars for long-term storage.
  13. 13. For storage, pickles should be fully submerged.