Chapman Piloting & Seamanship

Figure 12-01 As a basic action toward preventing an emergency from arising, every boat should be well maintained and have proper safety equipment, such as personal flotation devices (PFDs). Capsizings and falls overboard are responsible for almost two-thirds of boating fatalities.

Preparing for Emergencies • Summoning Assistance • Collisions Flooding • Fires & Explosions • Man Overboard • Other Emergencies Helicopter Rescue • Abandoning Ship

Whether caused by rough weather, overconfidence or just plain carelessness, emergencies on board a boat are the greatest test of a skipper’s abilities. How quickly he or she can react to and minimize the effects of an accident, fire, or other crisis on board can often make the difference between mishap and disaster, or even between life and death.

This chapter deals with preparing for potentially serious situations—flooding, fires and explosions, man overboard, and others—and dealing with them should they occur. Less serious “everyday” emergencies—heavy weather, fog and reduced visibility from other causes, running aground, assisting other vessels in trouble, and towing and being towed—are considered special seamanship situations and are covered in Chapter 10. The medical aspects of emergency situations are covered in Chapter 11.

This chapter also explains how to call for help when you need it and how to cope with helicopter rescue and abandon-ship emergencies.

BOATING ACCIDENTS

According to USCG statistics on 27,435 reported boating accidents during a recent five-year period, the following thirteen causes are cited, in order of frequency of occurrence. The consequences were serious; 3,507 fatalities, 19,038 injuries, and more than $185 million in property damage. Although each type of accident resulted in some fatalities, those indicated with an asterisk were responsible for approximately 90 percent of total fatalities.

• Collision with other vessels.*

• Collision with a fixed object.*

• Capsizing.*

• Other casualty; unknown.*

• Falls overboard.*

• Grounding.*

• Fire or explosion of fuel.

• Collision with floating object.

• Swamping/flooding.

• Sinking.

• Struck by boat or propeller.

• Falls within boat.

• Non-fuel-related fire or explosion.

The U.S. Coast Guard statistics do not include every accident to a recreational boat. Some are not included as no report is required; others go unreported due to ignorance of the requirement and a lack of enforcement of the law. The Coast Guard believes that “only a small portion of all boating accidents are reported.” The more serious the accident, the greater the likelihood of its being reported; it is probable that nearly all fatal accidents are reported.

Experienced skippers prepare themselves for dealing with emergencies as a matter of routine.

They also prepare their crews. Whether the crewmembers are part of a competitive team, or family and friends, or guests out for a casual afternoon cruise, the seasoned skipper is prepared for any dangers that may present a threat to the safety of the craft and those on board. The location of emergency equipment—fire extinguishers, personal flotation devices, radio, visual distress signals, etc.—should be shown to everyone on board.

The first thought to be given to any preparation for a specific emergency should be how to prevent that situation from ever arising. Begin by ensuring that the boat is properly equipped and maintained. The emergencies that are most often reported as accidents, listed in the sidebar “Boating Accidents,” can usually be prevented by the actions described in Chapter 11, Safety Afloat. The practice of good seamanship is an essential element in the elimination of emergencies; safe operating procedures for various types of boats are covered in Chapters 6, 7, and 8.

The Importance of Emergency Drills
The general importance of practice and drills was pointed out in Chapter 11; this is even more important in relation to the preparation for emergencies. Even the best plans are valuable only if tried out and evaluated, revised as necessary, and then practiced periodically. Rehearse the procedures discussed in this chapter until they are second nature. Practice each operation with the entire crew at the beginning of each boating season, then once again on a staggered schedule later in the season. Make every effort to keep the drills enjoyable without reducing their serious nature. Have some drills without your participation, as if you had become incapacitated.

Think of invited guests as “temporary crew.” You may not be able to train them in drills, but they should be shown where the life jackets are and how to use them. Inform them in a relaxed manner, not with an air of alarm. If guests are aboard for an extended cruise, expand their knowledge to such items as the location and use of fire extinguishers and bilge pumps.

TRANSMITTING A DSC AND VOICE MAYDAY DISTRESS CALL

A MAYDAY call on a marine radio is the most effective way to summon aid when faced with grave and imminent danger. Regardless of your location, use your VHF/DSC radio to send a DSC MAYDAY call (if linked to a GPS receiver, it will automatically alert every DSC-equipped vessel and coast station in radio range, instantly informing them of your precise position). Follow up with a voice MAYDAY call on channel 16 to alert stations in range that may not have DSC receiving capability. If offshore, follow up with voice distress calls on 2182 and the HF calling channels.

To make a DSC distress call:

1 Be sure the radio and GPS are ON.

2 Locate the red DISTRESS button.

3 Lift the cover and press and hold the button until the radio “beeps.”

4 After the radio beeps, pick up the microphone and make a voice MAYDAY call on channel 16, clearly saying, “MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY.”

5 State your latitude and longitude or describe your location relative to a landmark or aid to navigation.

6 State the nature of your distress: medical, flooding, sinking, fire, etc.

7 Listen for a response from the Coast Guard on channel 16 and follow their instructions.

8 If you called on an MF or HF frequency (see Chapter 20), state the frequency you used.

The marine environment can be unforgiving, and what may initially be a minor problem can rapidly develop into a situation beyond your control. For this reason, let someone know when you are experiencing even relatively minor difficulties—before your situation turns into an emergency.

If you transmit a Distress or Pan-Pan call, then find that you no longer require assistance, you must cancel the message on channel 16.

TRANSMITTING A PAN-PAN URGENCY CALL & MESSAGE

Send the Pan-Pan urgency signal to indicate that you have a “very urgent” message regarding the safety of your vessel or the safety of a person.

1 On channel 16, press the microphone button and say “PAN-PAN” (pronounced pahn-pahn) three times.

2 “ALL STATIONS (or the name of a particular vessel).”

3 “THIS IS (boat name) … (boat name) … (boat name).”

4 “WE (nature of your emergency).”

5 “WE REQUIRE (type of assistance required or other useful information such as your position, a description of your vessel, and/or the number of people on board).”

6 “THIS IS (boat name). OVER.”

CANCELING A PAN-PAN

1 Say (as appropriate) “DISTRESS” or “PAN–PAN” three times.

2 “HELLO ALL STATIONS” three times.

3 “THIS IS (boat name).”

4 “TIME (use 24-hour clock).”

5 “CANCEL” (as appropriate) “DISTRESS” or “PAN–PAN.”

6 To cancel a DSC distress call that has not yet been answered by the Coast Guard; turn the radio off, then turn it back on, select channel 16 and make a voice broadcast per steps 1-5 above. Continue to monitor channel 16.

The USCG serves as Search and Rescue (SAR) coordinator for all maritime emergencies in U.S. waters and is the appropriate contact on safety issues. If you are in “distress”—if you and/or your boat are threatened by grave or imminent danger requiring immediate assistance—the USCG will take immediate action. Increasingly, though, help for situations less than an emergency will be provided by commercial assistance operators for a fee. There will, however, be instances where speed of response or lack of commercial towing craft will result in the use of USCG or USCG Auxiliary assistance.

Broadcasting a Mayday call is the most effective way to inform the outside world of your need for emergency assistance. The area over which your call will be heard largely depends on which of the three internationally coordinated systems you use: VHF/DSC Distress, a call on one of the MF or HF emergency frequencies, or an emergency beacon transmission on 406 MHz. Vessels in coastal waters (within 25 to perhaps 50 nautical miles from shore) should make their initial call using the Digital Selective Calling (DSC) distress feature of their VHF/DSC radio, followed up with a voice Mayday call on channel 16. Vessels beyond normal VHF range of coast stations should make a DSC Mayday call to alert all vessels in range and, in addition, a voice Mayday call on 2182 kHz or on one of the HF frequencies. The vessel’s 406 Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) or Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) should be activated at the same time the VHF or MF/HF calls are made.

If your situation does not justify sending a Mayday call, you may wish to transmit an URGENCY–PAN–PAN call to alert all listening stations to stand by for your voice message. The most conspicuous way to send a PAN-PAN call is by using the DSC All Ships function, followed by your voice message on channel 16.

How to Signal Distress & Urgency
Aboard most boats, the radio is the primary means for getting assistance. (For information on radio operation, see Chapter 20.) Channel 16 VHF is monitored by USCG stations and vessels, commercial shipping, and many recreational craft. Never rely on a cell phone for distress calls, but if service is available you may wish to call 911 if you have no other radio communication device.

Offshore farther than about 20 nautical miles (37 km), you should call the USCG on 4.125 or 6.215 MHz. (Some Coast Guard stations monitor 2182 KHz.)

The Coast Guard’s Rescue 21 communication system provides VHF/DSC radio communication coverage of vast areas of coastal waters out to approximately 25 nautical miles (assuming a 1-watt transmitter with an antenna 5 feet [1.5 m] above the surface) and over longer distances in many instances. Most Rescue 21 stations are equipped with multiple antennas with direction-finding capability. In addition, the system is optimized to receive and automatically process calls made using VHF DIGITAL SELECTIVE CALLING (VHF/DSC) to provide immediate and effective response to a distress call. By the end of 2016, Rescue 21 service was operational along the entire Atlantic, Pacific, and Gulf coasts of the continental United States, the Great Lakes, and Hawaii and several U.S. territories, with modified versions of the system expected to become operational in 2017 in Alaska and along Western rivers. For current status and descriptions, see www.uscg.mil/acquisition/rescue21.

Time is critical in any search-and-rescue effort. A Mayday call using a properly installed VHF/DSC radio will cause every VHF/DSC radio in range of your vessel to emit an alarm sound and automatically log your call, including your latitude and longitude. The Rescue 21 system operator will see your vessel’s precise position on a chart. Your unique MARITIME MOBILE SERVICE IDENTITY NUMBER (MMSI) will be displayed and will be used to access the information about your vessel stored in the Coast Guard database, including the name and description of your vessel plus other information that will assist the Coast Guard in providing the assistance you need.

Radio Silence
“Seelonce (French pronunciation of ‘silence’) Mayday” has been adopted internationally to control transmissions on the distress frequency, telling all other stations to stop transmitting and maintain radio silence. This signal is to be used only by the unit in distress or the station controlling the distress traffic. Any other station that considers it necessary to advise one or more stations of the need to keep off the air should use the signal “Seelonce Distress” followed by its identification.

The signal to indicate the end of radio silence and permission to resume normal operation is “Seelonce Feenee” (French for “silence ended”) or “Pru-donce” (French for “prudence”). This signal may be transmitted only by the station that has controlled the distress traffic.

If You Hear a Mayday Call
If you are not in distress but you hear a Mayday call, listen carefully—do not transmit. As you listen, try to determine if your boat is in the best position to take the necessary action.

If yours is the logical boat to render assistance, reply with a call to the distressed vessel as follows: “(Name of boat in distress) … (name of boat in distress) … (name of boat in distress). This is (your boat name) … (your boat name) … (your boat name and call sign). Received Mayday.”

When the other vessel has acknowledged your call, continue with your offer of assistance by giving your position, your speed toward the scene of distress, and the estimated time to get there. But be sure before you transmit that you will not be interfering with the signal of another vessel better situated to render immediate assistance. Keep in mind that the “Good Samaritan” provision (see Chapter 2) protects you from liability.

If yours is not the logical boat to take action, maintain radio silence but monitor the frequency closely for any further development. Start making notes so that you can record the events in your boat’s log. When another station retransmits a distress message, the words “Mayday Relay” must be spoken three times before station identification.

Making a Non-Distress Emergency Call
If your situation is not a distress, call one of the commercial, on-water assist service companies by hailing them on channel 16, with a DSC hailing call, using their MMSI (many towing companies have published their MMSIs for this purpose) or a cell or satellite phone if you know the number. If you are unaware of what services may be available, call the Coast Guard. The Coast Guard will normally coordinate the efforts to assist you and, if necessary, will make a Marine Assistance Request Broadcast (MARB) on your behalf, announcing your need for help, your position, and inviting others to come to your aid.

Thereafter, if you do not accept services offered in response to the first MARB, you have two options. The USCG will supply information about commercial firms, if available, so you may contact them directly. Or, if you request, the USCG will make a second MARB to see if other help is available.

Keep in contact with the Coast Guard at regular intervals and tell them when help arrives. If someone offers help but cannot get to you within a reasonable time, usually not to exceed one hour, contact the Coast Guard to arrange other assistance. In addition, inform the Coast Guard if conditions change sufficiently to cause alarm—for example, if a medical emergency develops, a storm approaches, your boat begins taking on water, or your last reported position changes. If the Coast Guard or Coast Guard Auxiliary arrives to assist you and you require a tow, they normally will tow you to the nearest location where you can arrange for repairs or a tow back to your homeport. However, if a commercial firm is available to help you safely in a reasonable time, the Coast Guard will not provide direct on-scene assistance. Since you will have to pay for the commercial firm’s services, inquire about fees and salvage commitments before accepting that service.

Remember that, if you agree to the assistance of a commercial firm and then refuse this service when it arrives, you still may be legally obligated to pay a fee.

In addition to Coast Guard and commercial firms, others that may be available to assist you include a fellow boater, a local fire or police department, or another public agency. Keep in mind that a Good Samaritan, although well-meaning, may not have the equipment or skills needed to help you safely and effectively.

USING A CELL PHONE TO GET HELP

The Coast Guard recommends that calls for assistance be made using a VHF radio whenever possible. A cell phone call cannot alert nearby vessels of your need for assistance. Transfer of a 911 call to the Coast Guard can significantly delay the arrival of assistance, and a dropped call may not be recoverable.

The only instance in which a cell phone should be used to notify authorities of an emergency is if it is the only means of communication, in which case the call should be made to 911.

If You Do Not Have a Radio
If you do not have a marine radio, or yours is not working, attempt to signal a fellow boater who can either assist or call the Coast Guard for you. In a distress situation, use flares or any other distress signaling device to catch the attention of people aboard other boats in the vicinity. Refer to the officially recognized signals shown in Chapter 5; refer to Figure 5-20.

Accident statistics for a recent year make very interesting reading. For all reported accidents involving recreational boats, 41 percent involved the collision of one craft with another, an additional 12 percent involved the collision of a boat with a fixed or floating object. Thus, collisions totaled 53 percent of all reported boating accidents. Clearly, collisions are a primary category of underway emergencies. With more boats using our waters every year and faster speeds becoming common, every skipper must learn to use special caution to avoid a collision; see Figure 12-02.

Figure 12-02 Many boating areas are relatively open expanses of water without specific channels. Craft may approach from one or more directions, often several at a time. To avoid collisions, every skipper must know who has the right-of-way and what signal to give in each situation.

Avoiding Collisions
In recent years, among the most frequent causes of boating accidents were “operator inattention,” “no proper lookout,” and “operator carelessness.” If your course appears to be converging with another vessel’s, take careful compass or relative bearings every few minutes; increase their frequency as the gap narrows. If the bearings move forward, the other vessel will cross ahead of you; if the bearings move aft, the boat will cross behind you. But if the bearings remain constant, you are on a collision course and must take immediate action. Do not wait until the last moment. If the other vessel is a boat, take action in accordance with Navigation Rules, giving way or maintaining course and speed if you are the stand-on vessel.

Although a converging course is difficult to judge with any boat, large commercial vessels offer a real challenge. As soon as you spot a freighter, tanker, or ferry, assign a crewmember to lookout duty. Nothing should distract this person from looking at and taking bearings on the vessel until the chance of collision has clearly passed. Unless you are certain that you will cross its bow at least one mile ahead of it, alter your course so that you will pass astern of the larger vessel. If your boat is on a bow-to-bow reciprocal course with another vessel, temporarily alter course to starboard by at least 20 degrees.

Even if you have the right away, the Navigation Rules (see Chapter 5) require you to do everything you can to avoid collision—even if it means reversing. If a collision seems imminent and the other vessel’s crew obviously doesn’t see you, do everything you can to make your boat visible.

Attract attention to your vessel by shining a bright hand-held light on your sails, or fire flares from your vessel to attract the other crew’s attention.

• Assume that the operator of the other vessel does not know the Navigation Rules and will not be obeying them.

If You Do Have a Collision
If despite your best effort a collision does occur, your first actions should be for the safety and welfare of persons on your boat and the other craft. If people are in the water, throw them life jackets or any other item that would help them remain afloat until they can be helped on board your or another craft. If there are injuries, apply such first-aid measures as you can; see Chapter 11.

As the statistics show, despite knowing the Rules of the Road and taking proper precautions, collisions do occur. If you are involved in one—your fault or the other skipper’s—you are in most instances required to file an accident report. In some instances, this report will be made to the Coast Guard on Form CG-3865. In most cases, however, the report will be made to a state agency using a form required by that agency; this form will usually be very similar to the Coast Guard form. The circumstances that require the submission of an accident report and the time requirements for its submission are shown in the sidebar above, see also Chapter 2.

REPORTING BOATING ACCIDENTS

Boating Accident Reports are intended to assist the Coast Guard in determining the cause of accidents and making recommendations for their prevention, and in compiling appropriate statistics. In case of collision, accident, or other casualty involving a vessel subject to the Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971 (FBSA/71), the operator must make a formal report within 48 hours if the incident results in any of the following circumstances:

• Death, although local authorities must be notified immediately.

• An injury requiring medical treatment beyond first aid.

• The disappearance of a person from a vessel under circumstances that indicate death or injury. The report must be filed within 10 days if the accident results in either property damage totaling more than $2,000 or in complete loss of a vessel. Most state boating laws require that reports of boating accidents be made to a designated state office or official. If, however, there is no state provision for reporting such incidents, a report must be made to the Coast Guard Officer in Charge, Marine Inspection, nearest the site of the accident.

Coast Guard regulations on accident reporting list the information that must be furnished. The Boating Accident Report Form—CG-3865—may be used in recreational boat reports to the Coast Guard; states normally use this form or one of their own patterned after it. (Note that reporting requirements and the form are different for craft in commercial operation.)

Be prepared mentally and in terms of equipment to take immediate action at the first sign of water entering your boat. Try to identify where the water is coming in. If your boat is damaged by collision with another boat, or if you hit a submerged object, especially at high speed, the location of the leak will probably be obvious. In other situations, the source of the inflow may not be easy to determine.

A likely cause of leaks is failure of through-hull fittings and related parts such as hoses, keel bolts, underwater exhausts, stuffing boxes, and rudder-posts; check these locations first. This is where a thorough knowledge of your boat is essential. If you have taken the time to diagram the location of every through-hull fitting in your boat, you will be well prepared to find the problem quickly and to deal with the situation in a calm, logical manner.

Even if you can’t prevent a leak, you can be well prepared to repair it with speed and confidence.

• Install the largest possible manually operated diaphragm pump; such units are available with a capacity of one gallon per stroke. Mount the pump so that you can operate it continuously without excessive fatigue.

• Have on board softwood plugs—one of appropriate diameter for each size of through-hull fitting in your boat, tapered so they can be driven into place from the inside; see Figure 12-03.

• To prepare for the possibility of hull damage, stock a small, strong tarpaulin with corner grommets. When dock lines are attached, the tarpaulin can be maneuvered to cover a damaged hull area from the outside, then secured. Alternatively, there is a commercially available product that operates as a “leak umbrella,” which is inserted from the inside of the boat through a large opening in the hull, then opened up in umbrella-like fashion to cover the hole and secured with the handle. Although these actions may not stop all leaking, they can significantly reduce the water inflow.

• Be prepared to take advantage of the engine to gain greater pumping capacity, as shown in the sidebar “Increasing Pumping Capacity,”. The alternative system can also be used to admit a small, controlled amount of water into the bilge for testing the operation of automatic bilge pump controls, and for cleaning.

Figure 12-03 If the cause of the leak is a damaged hose, closing the seacock (above left) should solve the problem. If, however, a through-hull fitting fails and the seacock or gate valve cannot be closed, hammer in a plug to stop the inflow of water (above right). Such a plug must be watched closely lest it come out undetected.

Taking Immediate Action
As soon as you suspect damage that might cause a threatening leak, switch on all electric bilge pumps. (Even if you discover no leak, the pumps will not be damaged by a brief run without water to pump.)

Assign someone the task of calling for emergency assistance—even before you are certain that you will need help. Activate a manual pump if you have an extra person on board. Then investigate for any possible damage.

Caution for boats connected to shore power, or when an onboard 120-volt AC genset is running: If your boat has suffered hull damage as the result of a collision with another boat or an object, consider the possibility that the collision might also have damaged the vessel’s electrical system. If a live electrical wire has been knocked loose and is discharging current into bilge water, anyone stepping into that bilge water could suffer a serious, possibly fatal, shock. If electrical wires have been pulled loose and come into contact with bilge water, or you notice any electrical sparking, shut down the main breakers in your AC and DC electrical panels before exposing yourself to the water in the bilge.

Remember that a boat floats as long as water is pumped out at least as fast as it comes in. Assign someone to investigate the extent of the damage by checking the bilge. If conditions permit, make this investigation yourself. If leaking is rapid, plug the leak and do everything possible to remove the water. Do whatever works fastest with the materials at hand, from the emergency pumping procedure shown in the sidebar “Increasing Pumping Capacity” to forming a bucket brigade. If your leak occurs offshore, keep in mind that USCG aircraft carry emergency pumps that can be dropped in floating containers to boats that need them. Operating instructions are on and in the containers.

Stopping the Inflow of Water
The action that you take to stem the flow of water into your boat will depend on the nature of the leak itself. Almost anything soft can be stuffed into a hole in the hull—from cushions and pillows to bedding and spare sails (never use life jackets; you might need them). As quickly as possible, reinforce soft plug materials with something flat and solid, such as a hatch cover, battens, or bed slats. Assign a crewmember to hold the plug in place. The plug should be monitored at all times by a crewmember, while others continue pumping overboard the water that has entered the boat. In the meantime, head the boat to a nearby destination where necessary repairs can be made. If it gets really bad, you might consider beaching the boat at the nearest landfall.

If the material is applied from the outside—the most effective method, since water pressure will help to hold it in place—the boat must be stopped while the temporary patch or plug is positioned and secured. If you are going to try to reach shore with such a rig in place, make certain its top edge is well above your vessel’s waterline, and proceed slowly.

INCREASING PUMPING CAPACITY

In an emergency underway, when the bilge is flooding and the boat’s pump(s) cannot keep up with the inflow, the engine’s cooling system can be valuable to stem the inflow of water in one of the following ways:

• You can improvise by simply stopping the engine, shutting the seacock, and removing the intake hose, keeping it below water level in the bilge; make sure the new intake is ahead of the engine’s raw water strainer.

Important: Make sure your boat is equipped with a replacement hose. When removing the intake hose, you may discover that it has bonded to the seacock and will rip or have to be cut away. Unless you have a replacement hose in good condition, you will lose the use of your engine.

• Alternatively, you can modify your intake system as shown here—by installing a “T” connection and hose, fitted with a strainer, to the lowest point in the bilge; this should be ahead of the engine’s raw water strainer. This hose must have an in-line shut-off valve—keep it closed in normal operation. To activate the emergency pumping system, close the seacock and open the valve in the bypass line. The engine will then use the bilge water as coolant.

In most systems, the end of the intake hose can be removed (after shutting its seacock) and placed in the bilge.

Important: When activated, this system must be constantly monitored to prevent damage to engine(s) if water drops below the pickup level; the two valves can each be partially opened and adjusted to match the pumping action to the inflow volume. In addition, when engines are shut down, the bypass must be turned back to seacock mode once the leak is under control. This system is only for emergency pumping—never use it to flush out dirty bilges.

A “T” connection with in-line valve can be installed as shown. The cut-off or bypass valve must be securely closed in normal use.

Fire on a boat is a very serious matter. Your surroundings are burning and you have nowhere to go except overboard into the water. Fire safety is something that everyone who owns or operates a boat should practice. Each year, boating fires and explosions injure hundreds of boaters and cause millions of dollars in property damage. While there is a greater chance of a fire or explosion on a boat than on land, most of these accidents can be prevented.

Preventing Fires on Board
Keep in mind that most fires are preventable. A boat kept in shipshape condition, with clean bilges and proper stowage of fuel and gear, is not likely to have a fire. Prevention requires constant attention; whenever you see a condition on your boat that might contribute to a fire, correct it at once.

Fires do occur despite a skipper’s best efforts, so always keep the firefighting gear accessible and in good working condition. Stow some life jackets well forward in case of fire aft, or in case you must abandon ship over the bow.

Fuel and fuel vapors are two of the leading ingredients in all boating accidents involving fires and explosions. Follow the guidelines for safe fueling, as well as the following reminders provided by the United States Coast Guard and the National Fire Protection Association.

• Be alert for damage to your boat’s fuel system. Over a period of time, fuel fittings and fuel hoses wear out. Inspect all fittings and hoses regularly, especially near the engine where engine heat and vibration can accelerate deterioration.

• Inspect fuel tanks annually. Pay particular attention to bottom surfaces, which may have been in contact with bilge water, and also any part of the tank that touches the boat structure. The tank could have rusted or been damaged due to rubbing and abrasion. A suitable vent pipe for each tank should lead outside the hull; vents should never terminate in closed spaces such as the engine compartment or under the deck.

• Be sure the fuel fill pipe is tightly fitted to the fill plate and located outside closed compartments. Also, the fill pipe should be located where any spilled fuel will be directed overboard. Look for fuel fill hoses that are dry and cracked or soft and mushy. Such hoses should be replaced with marine fuel hoses immediately.

• If a hose or fuel tank leaks, replace it before using your boat again, even for a short time.

• On a boat with portable fuel tanks, make sure the vents can be closed and that the tanks have vapor-tight, leak-proof caps. The vent on a portable tank should be open when the motor is running, but when the tank is not in use, the vent and the cap should be tightly closed.

• If the boat has powered ventilation (a bilge blower), make sure the blower operates.

• If your engine is equipped with a backfire flame arrester, keep the flame arrester screen clean.

• Be sure heating and cooking appliances on board are secured and operate properly. Refer to the owner’s manual for the appliance for guidance on inspecting for leaks in valves and connections; never use a match.

• In the galley, fit splash-proof covers to appliances and controls. Keep the galley clean, especially the sides of pans and any grease filters. Never leave the galley unattended when power or fuel is switched on.

• Make sure that flammable items are stowed safely and cannot come into contact with cooking or heating appliances or hot engine parts.

• Install a sniffer-type alarm if your galley stove uses a heavier-than-air fuel, such as propane, or if the boat has a gasoline engine. Otherwise, fumes from these fuels may settle in the bilge, undetected by crewmembers; an open flame or spark could ignite the fumes.

• Make sure that Coast Guard–approved fire extinguishers on board are in working order—that gauges register and that nozzles are clear. Take a boating safety course that teaches the correct use of a fire extinguisher on board a boat. The time to learn is before a fire occurs.

• Look for bare wires or loose electrical connections; these might cause a short in your boat’s electrical system, which could start a fire.

• Do not store small disposable propane cylinders or charcoal lighting fluid below deck.

• Discourage or minimize drinking of alcohol while the boat is underway. This applies not only to the skipper but to all persons on board.

• Do not permit anyone to smoke when they are in bed, refueling, or changing propane, CNG, or butane bottles. Advise all on board to never leave a lighted cigarette unattended, to put it out when finished, and to use an ashtray that will not slide off a table and overturn should the boat rock or heel over.

• If working with wood chips, sawdust, and shavings, sweep up and dispose of the scraps as soon as possible.

• When hauled out, if your boat does not have a metal hull, install an earth lightning conductor.

• Conduct a bow-to-stern inspection, checking for loose fuel, gas fumes, and any malfunctioning instruments.

• “Sniff” your bilges. Usually your nose is the best fuel/vapor detector. This will mean getting down on your hands and knees; however, it is the best way to check.

• Operate the bilge blower for at least four minutes before starting an inboard gasoline engine. If you still smell fumes after four minutes, find what is causing them and make repairs before starting the engine.

• Make sure the locations of your fire extinguishers are known to all persons on board.

• When refueling, close all hatches, ports, and other openings; shut off all engines and motors; and ensure that all persons refrain from smoking. Fill all portable tanks on shore.

• After refueling, wipe up or wash off any excess or spilled fuel; open all hatches and ports, and let the boat air out.

Fighting a Fire on Board
Unfortunately, sometimes fires do occur despite a skipper’s best efforts. Chances are, however, that this will result in a less severe emergency than it might if the required firefighting gear is on board, in good working condition and readily accessible, and if those aboard respond with speed. See Table 12-1 for information on the various types of extinguishing agents and the type of fires on which each should be used.

Figure 12-04 Fire on board a boat is a very serious matter. If the fire starts with an explosion, there is usually little you can do except grab a life preserver and go over the side without delay.

A fire may start with a dramatic explosion or on a much smaller scale. The skipper of every boat should have in mind the action to be taken if fire strikes; see Figure 12-04. The first consideration must be for the passengers, and the skipper should have a plan for abandoning ship if need be. If you have a gasoline explosion, there usually is little you can do except reach for a PFD if you can and go over the side. When clear of the danger, account for all crewmembers. Give whatever assistance you can to anyone injured or in the water without a buoyant device. Keep everyone together in a group—for morale and to aid rescue operations.

If abandoning ship is not immediately indicated, take the following steps as quickly as possible:

• Make a radio distress call (see "Transmitting a DSC and Voice Mayday Distress Call” earlier in the chapter), if time permits, giving the boat’s location.

• Make sure the passengers move to the safest areas of the boat, such as forward with the bow into the wind, with their life preservers on.

• Reach for the appropriate fire extinguisher, and fight the fire as described Fighting Fires of Various Types.

Table 12-1 Familiarize yourself with the various types of extinguishing agents and the kinds of fires for which they are suitable.

Fires require four elements for their existence—fuel, oxygen (air), heat, and uninhibited chemical chain reactions—remove or interrupt any of these and the fire will go out. Many fires are fought by smothering (shutting off the flow of air) or by cooling them below the temperature that will support combustion. Others are extinguished by interrupting the chain reactions of the combustion process—this is the action of dry-chemical extinguishers so widely used on small boats.

In fighting a fire, specific procedures and precautions must be followed. Hold the extinguisher upright and pull the pin. Stand back from the fire roughly 10 to 15 feet (3-5 m), and squeeze the handle. Always remember that a typical small marine fire extinguisher has a discharge time of only 8 to 20 seconds. From the start of the discharge, aim at the base of the fire, not the smoke. As the flames begin to die down, slowly approach the fire more closely. Never prematurely consider the fire to be extinguished until the material has substantially cooled down—be alert for a flashback. Wait until you believe that the burned material has sufficiently cooled down—and then wait a while longer. Opening an access hatch prematurely can let in enough fresh air (oxygen) to turn a smoldering fire into an inferno. Never get into a position where the fire, burning or “extinguished,” is between you and a safe exit.

• Galley Fires Fires in the galley are most likely to be fueled by flammable liquids such as grease, propane, or alcohol, or by combustible solid materials such as paper, wood, or fabric. A U.S. Coast Guard–approved Class ABC extinguisher will be effective against both kinds of fires; see Figure 12-05. If no extinguisher is available, use materials at hand, such as baking soda or a water-soaked towel. If using baking soda, pour some in your hand, then throw it at the base of the flames. Do not use water on grease fires; the grease will float on top of the water and can carry flames to other parts of the vessel. The same can happen with a fire involving alcohol stove fuel.

Figure 12-05 Do not use water on a grease fire; it may spread the flames. In using a hand-portable extinguisher, pull out the lock pin and squeeze the two handle levers together. Aim at the base of the flames with a sweeping action if the burning area is large. Keep the stream steadily on the base of the flames until the fire is out—or until the extinguisher is empty, a matter of only 8 to 20 seconds.

• If your stove uses propane for cooking, turn off the fuel supply from the tank. (The shut-off valve should be near the stove, but neither behind it nor in a location that will require reaching through flames.) Once the fuel supply is cut off, let the fire burn itself out. If necessary, soak nearby wooden or fabric surfaces with water to keep the fire from spreading.

• Gasoline, Diesel Oil, or Grease Fires Use a Class B dry-chemical, CO₂, or foam extinguisher. Do not use water, which will only spread the flames. A common source of deck fires aboard boats is the gasoline used to fuel the dinghy’s outboard motor. Although Coast Guard regulations do not require that a fire extinguisher be carried in most dinghies, you should keep a Class B extinguisher on board and make certain it is nearby whenever you are handling gasoline.

• Fires Belowdecks Fires in a vessel’s cabins or lockers will most often be fueled by combustible material such as wood, paper, or fabric. You should have a Class A extinguisher mounted below where you and your crew can get to it easily, even in the dark. If no Class A extinguisher is available, flood the fire’s base with water and/or rob the fire of oxygen by closing a door or hatch to snuff it out. Throw burning materials over the side if you can.

If you must open a door or hatch behind which fire may be burning, feel its exterior first. If it is too hot for you to touch, the fire is probably still burning. If you must open the door or hatch, have a portable Class A extinguisher ready, open the door slowly, stay as low as possible, and keep the door or hatch between yourself and the possible fire.

• Engine Fires If the engine-room fire extinguisher system has not discharged automatically, activate it manually. Stop all engines and generators in the engine space involved with the fire—if any engine continues to run, it will draw in some of the fire suppressant gasses, reducing the amount available to fight the fire, and at the same time draw in outside air that will further fuel the fire; automatic shut-down devices are available. Close all engine-room doors and hatches.

Order a trained crewmember to stand by the life raft and prepare to launch it; order the crew into life jackets. Transmit a Mayday distress call and message or Pan-Pan urgency call and message. If the engine-room fire extinguisher has discharged, keep all engine-room doors and hatches closed for 15 minutes before opening.

If you must use a portable fire extinguisher, aim it at the base of the flames, through the smallest access hole to the engine compartment; this minimizes the flow of air into the area of the fire and avoids spreading the flames into the rest of the boat. It is highly desirable that engine compartments have one or more small “fire ports” just large enough for the nozzle of an extinguisher

• Electrical Fires Use an approved Class C fire extinguisher designed specifically for this purpose; never use water, which conducts electricity. Fires in electrical-wiring insulation cannot sustain themselves without a great deal of oxygen; if your circuit panels are encased in a heavy metal box, in many cases closing the box will be sufficient to extinguish a fire.

A crewmember or guest falling overboard is one of the most frightening emergencies on any vessel. Although man-overboard (MOB) (male or female) drills have been a routine element of boating courses for many decades, they have been largely overlooked by many otherwise responsible powerboat and sailboat operators.

In recent years, on-the-water research on sailboats and powerboats alike has resulted in some dramatic changes to recommended man-overboard techniques. Testing by the Naval Academy Sailing Squadron in Annapolis and the Sailing Foundation of Seattle, Washington, has shown that the priority is getting the boat near the man-overboard victim as soon as possible so that he or she stays in sight of those on deck. Once the person in the water disappears from sight, the odds of a successful rescue are low.

Man-overboard victims face a number of dangers, including panic, injury during the fall, and hypothermia. For those on board the boat, quick thinking and coordinated action are essential to an effective rescue. Control of the situation is most likely to be maintained by those who have prepared themselves with regular drills. For such boaters, the retrieval of the person overboard will be automatic and effective without many shouted orders, and the passage or outing will continue without undue stress.

Immediate Actions
The simplest and most efficient procedure is to follow the four steps below:

1. Shout “MAN OVERBOARD” and keep eyes on the victim. When someone has fallen overboard, immediate action is vital. Any crewmember who sees a person go overboard should immediately and loudly shout, “MAN OVERBOARD STARBOARD” or “MAN OVERBOARD PORT,” while at the same time keeping his or her eyes on the victim, pointing emphatically to the person in the water; see Figure 12-06. This crewmember should not be assigned or accept any other duties.

Every second counts; this is an all-hands-on-deck procedure. The other crewmembers on board should put on approved PFDs and harnesses. (The last thing you want is another person overboard to recover.) All crewmembers should come on deck to assist in the maneuvers. Some of the crew will be assigned exact duties while others will automatically add eyes on the victim.

Figure 12-06 Constant vigilance is essential in a man-overboard rescue. Anyone who sees the person fall should shout immediately and loudly, “Man overboard, starboard (or port).” Make sure that one or more crewmembers keep the victim in sight at all times.

2. Simultaneously, throw over a man-overboard rig. One crewmember will jettison the rig—depending on the particular equipment aboard. This might range from a PFD to a sophisticated man-overboard module containing a single-person life raft with a drogue to slow down its drift, a life vest, and 8-foot pole, a strobe light, a radio beacon, survival food, etc.

For most boats, however, a practical and effective system is a buoyant pole at least 8 feet long, with its top marked by a large international orange flag and a water-activated strobe light and a weight at the other end. Such a rig usually includes a horseshoe life ring, a whistle, and a small drogue. It is highly visible, and serves a double purpose: It focuses the action so that both the skipper of the boat and the victim will try to aim for the lighted pole

The rig must be launched quickly—in a matter of seconds. If you do not have such a man-overboard rig, throw the buoyant device that can be deployed the fastest—for example, a United States Coast Guard–approved cockpit cushion (ideally, high-visibility red or orange) or a quick-release life ring. Throw the device upwind of the victim so that it can blow toward him or her. (Other boats use a Lifesling or other patented recovery device, which should be used according to the manufacturer’s specific instructions.)

In addition, three other tasks should be assigned: One crewmember should note compass heading, wind speed, wind direction, and time. Another crewmember should be issuing a Pan-Pan radio call to alert both the Coast Guard and other boats in the vicinity of the emergency. Finally, throwing a constant line of floating debris will aid in tracking the victim.

GPS receivers have a “MOB” button on the front panel. Press this immediately to record the latitude and longitude of the position where the person went overboard. Many display a course back to the scene of the incident. Wearable man-overboard alarm transmitters will automatically sound an alarm if the user enters the water.

3. Also, simultaneously the helmsman should stop the boat’s forward progress as soon as possible and then quickly reverse course.

• On a powerboat, go briefly into reverse to slow down and at the same time turn toward the victim in a simple circle. In a study conducted by the Seattle Sailing Foundation’s Safety at Sea Committee, 300 actual live-victim recoveries were made. After testing four different maneuvers for boats under power, the committee found that this simple turn—involving an immediate reduced-speed return—meets all of the criteria for small-craft man-overboard rescue. It keeps the boat close to the victim and is the safest, most reliable, and quickest of all the methods tried—regardless of the experience of the operator.

At night or in reduced visibility, and when you are not sure when the person fell overboard, the Williamson Turn, see Figure 12-07, might be your best way of reversing course under power: Put the helm hard over, turning toward the side (if known) over which the person fell overboard, until your heading has changed 60 degrees. Then quickly reverse the rudder and come around 240 degrees.

Figure 12-07 The Williamson Turn, a traditional rescue technique, is usually the method of choice for a motorboat when the location of the person in the water is uncertain. This method is also used in compass compensation, as described in Chapter 13.

• On a sailboat, it is almost always best to use the Quick-Stop method shown in Figure 12-08. (Even if you opt to start your engine, continue, at least initially, under sail. Dropping the sails costs precious time and sacrifices some control of the boat.) Head into the wind immediately, trimming sails flat. Continue the turn, tacking, without releasing the jibsheet. The jib will be backed on your new tack, which helps swing the bow around and further reduces your speed. Continue the turn away from the wind. When you’re headed downwind, your close-trimmed sails will catch very little wind. At your closest point of approach to the MOB, throw more flotation in his or her direction if possible. Once downwind of the MOB, round up to bring him or her alongside, meanwhile dowsing or furling the jib unless you plan to let it flap in the final stages of recovery. If uncertain of your ability to maneuver for recovery under main and jib or main alone, start the engine and make your final approach under power.

If the spinnaker is set, let the guy forward to the forestay, round up into the wind, and haul the sheet tight. Drop the halyard (or cut it, if need be) and collect the spinnaker under the boom and into the main hatch. Do not worry about neatness; only the speed of the recovery is important.

In a case where the MOB marker has clearly been launched some time after the person has fallen overboard, it may be best to jibe, as this maneuver has a greater likelihood of reversing course with the fastest speed. (Remember that the victim may drift downwind, especially in large waves.) The risk of this approach is that the greater boat speed carried through a jibe will increase your separation from the MOB before you reverse course.

Figure 12-08 The Quick-Stop method of rescue stops a sailboat’s forward progress by immediately heading into the wind and tacking back to the person overboard.

After Reaching the Victim
1. Getting closer to the victim. Under power, you can motor slowly alongside the victim, aiming just to windward or leeward according to your judgment. Positioning the boat to windward in high winds and seas may cause it to drift over the victim. Approaching on the victim’s leeward side, on the other hand, may result in the boat drifting away from the victim before rescuers can grab him. In general, recovery is easier if you approach to windward and present your leeward side to the victim; see Table 12-2.

Plan to get no closer than 10 feet, and to reach a dead slow speed as you draw alongside. Remember that a boat traveling at more than one knot is impossible to either hang onto or stay with even if a line is thrown from the deck.

If you are recovering the victim under sail, you may choose one of the two methods described below to immobilize the boat and steady the deck for the recovery. (If you are unfamiliar with any of the sailing terms used here, refer to Chapter 8 and/or the Glossary, Appendix F).

• The Rod-Stop Method (named for sailor and yacht designer Rod Stephens). Dowse, roll up, or luff the jib. Cast off the main sheet and tie a preventer to the boom, bringing the boom all the way out to the leeward shrouds. Put the helm hard over as if to tack or heave-to. The boat should stall with the wind more or less abeam and a slight drift to leeward, moving ever so slowly forward while you effect a recovery.

• Heaving-to. Another option is to “heave-to” once you reach the person overboard by hauling on the windward jibsheet to back the jib, as described in Chapter 10. The boat should either stop altogether or keep moving forward slightly.

Table 12-2 Whether to approach to windward or leeward of a person in the water is controversial. Consider wind and wave conditions when making a choice.

2. Recovering the person overboard. One way to quickly recover your victim is to use the increasingly popular MOB retrieval system called the Lifesling. This patented product features a padded sling at the end of a long line that you tow behind your boat, moving around in a circle until the victim can grab it in order to place under his or her arms for hoisting and retrieval, as shown in Figure 12-09. A Lifesling deployed during a Quick-Stop circle approach to the victim is an effective recovery combination.

Whether you use a Lifesling or another method of retrieval, getting an exhausted, heavy victim on deck can be quite a challenge. In most cases, the person in the water will not be able to climb aboard because of extreme fatigue and waterlogged clothing. This stage can have tragic consequences if not acted upon efficiently and immediately. You must make a quick decision as to whether the recovery will be active or passive, as described below.

Figure 12-09 A Lifesling greatly increases the chance of rescuing a conscious victim. In order to recover an unconscious person, another crewmember must enter the water to position the sling on the victim.

• In an active recovery, the victim is able to assist in getting on deck. You can use a sturdy ladder amidships. (Beware of using the transom; the victim could be pulled under the stern.) You can also rig two or three different lengths of line between a stanchion and another stanchion or a cleat, forming a makeshift ladder. Another alternative is to rig a line from a fixed point amidships, so that it reaches below water level, then lead it back around a stanchion to the windlass. Use this line as a lift to help the victim aboard. (Watch toes and limbs so as not to be caught against the hull.)

• In a passive recovery, however, the victim may be hypothermic, exhausted, or injured. (When falling overboard, a person often hits the lifelines and grabs on, dislocating a shoulder.) Or, even worse, the person overboard may be unconscious. If the victim is a child or slight person, two or more strong adults may be able to lift him or her on board. But if the victim is a full-size adult with waterlogged clothes, you will need a mechanical advantage.

On a powerboat, a safety line may help; otherwise, try a block and tackle. Do not go over the side unless you are certain beyond any doubt of being able to come back on board. If you must enter the water, it is absolutely essential that you wear a life jacket—for added buoyancy and to keep both hands free and ready to use. In a small boat, there is also a danger of capsizing while recovering, so take special care.

On a sailboat, recovery can be easier because of the opportunities of using the boom with a block and tackle (possibly the boom vang); be careful to prevent the boom from flogging back and forth while winching up. Another way is to lift the victim in the belly of the jib. (Although some people recovered this way have experienced claustrophobia, they were brought aboard nonetheless.) A third alternative is to use the main halyard, if the mainsail is down, or any other halyard that can be led to a sturdy winch.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU FALL OVERBOARD: SURVIVAL FLOATING

Just as important as acquiring the skills necessary for rescuing a person overboard is a knowledge of how to help yourself if you are the person overboard. The following tips can help you stay afloat until you are recovered.

• Keep your clothes on. If your shoes are light enough for you to swim comfortably, leave them on. If they weigh you down, however, remove them. Remove any heavy objects from any pockets in your clothing.

• If you can float on your back fairly easily, save energy by doing so. Kick only when necessary.

• While signaling for help or waiting for rescue, tread water to stay in an upright position, moving your hands back and forth and using a kick that requires little energy.

Remember, the more you move around in cold water, the quicker your body temperature will drop, and the faster hypothermia can set in.

• In warm water, conserve your energy by using the facedown floating technique shown below, called survival floating. Each move you make should be slow and easy.

• Every second counts. As soon as a heaved line reaches you, pass it around your chest and tie a bowline knot (see Chapter 23). If a Lifesling reaches you, slip into it immediately; refer to Figure 12-09.

• As the rescue boat approaches, stay away from both the stern and the bow of the boat.

• When trying to board the boat, don’t rush; it is important to make effective use of your remaining energy.

With your mouth above the water’s surface, hold your breath, put your face in the water, let your arms and legs dangle for several seconds. Then tilt your head back to raise your face above the surface, only high enough for your mouth to clear the water. As you raise your face, exhale. As your mouth clears the water, gently press down with your arms and bring your legs together. This will help keep your mouth above water. Take another breath and repeat the cycle.

The most likely major emergencies have been listed and discussed here—but there are others. Study your craft in detail and try to visualize what could go wrong—and then prepare plans for dealing with such occurrences. Some of the more typical emergencies are covered below.

Deadheads & Shipping Containers
A deadhead is a log or large piece of timber that has become so waterlogged that little buoyancy remains. It usually floats with one end down, showing only a few inches of the other end; it barely rises and falls and is extremely difficult to spot, particularly from a fast boat or any boat at night. Deadheads are more dangerous than rocks or reefs because they are uncharted and may appear almost anywhere. The only action a boater can take is precautionary; maintain a sharp lookout while underway.

A generally similar hazard is a freight container that has fallen overboard. Every year literally thousands of them fall from the decks of container ships in rough seas; see Figure 12-10. These large objects, roughly 8 feet (2.4 m) square and 20 to 40 feet (6 to 12 m) in length, are designed to flood and sink if this happens—but that doesn’t always happen! Those that remain floating are a real hazard to small craft, especially at night. If your boating takes you into or across shipping lanes, add “floating containers” to your list of dangers that you must guard against.

Figure 12-10 Many thousands of freight containers are transported on all oceans all the time. Some are lost overboard in violent storms. Most of these will sink, but some will continue to float for lengthy periods; while floating, they constitute a serious hazard to small craft.

Dismasting
A broken sailboat mast can result from failure in the standing rigging or—as in the case of ocean racing—pushing the boat past its designed performance limits. In any case, this emergency demands immediate attention. Make sure that all crewmembers are wearing life jackets, then direct them to take quick action to clear and secure all stray lines, rigging, sails, and other loose gear—anything that could foul the propeller or create such a drag as to affect the controllability of the boat. That done, now it is safe to turn on the auxiliary engine.

Figure 12-11 While just being dismasted is bad enough, the spars and sails in the water alongside the craft can be a hazard to the hull and must be cut away or secured without delay.

One great danger of dismasting is severe damage to your hull. In this case you must decide immediately to cut the mast loose and get free of it or to try to save it. In the latter case, it is essential to secure the mast tightly against the hull and cushion it with a mattress or pillows; see Figure 12–11.

Some resourceful sailors can jury-rig a new spar—from the mast stump or a whisker pole, for example—in order to catch at least some wind.

Swamping, Foundering & Capsizing
A boat is “swamped” when it fills with water from over the side. The causes can vary, from large waves coming over the gunwales or the transom to reduced freeboard because the boat is overloaded. Or swamping may result from a sudden squall or a heavy wake from a larger vessel. Small wooden boats have enough buoyancy to remain afloat, and will not founder—sink—when swamped; most small fiberglass boats have buoyancy built into them in the form of plastic foam flotation material. Use anything at hand to bail out the water; otherwise, hand-paddle to the nearest shore; see Figure 12-12.

Figure 12-12 Small fiberglass craft have built-in added buoyancy so that when swamped they will not sink, but will remain floating in a level attitude. As long as possible, stay with your boat—you will be more likely to be located and rescued sooner.

A boat is “capsized” when it is knocked down so it lies on its side in the water or turns over—a frequent occurrence among small sailboats that are especially sensitive to sudden changes in the wind. Most small boats will remain in that position, unless righted, and will float enough to support any crew that had been on board.

Having capsized or swamped, it is important to remain calm and conserve energy. The general rule is to ensure that all crewmembers are wearing PFDs and that they stay with the boat; there may be possibilities of righting it, and rescuers will be able to find you more easily. Leave the boat only if it is headed toward a hazard. If the capsized boat is a small centerboard sailboat, improve your chances of recovery by trying to keep it from turning upside down. Stand on the centerboard, providing lever action; this is a technique taught in most basic sailing courses. If possible, have a crewmember attach a life jacket or other flotation device to the end of the mast. If you can, remove all sails before attempting to right the boat.

Take precautions against swamping and capsizing: Watch that loaded items do not shift from side to side; guard against too much power or speed on turns, and the wake of fast boats and large vessels. Take waves head on, or fine on the bow, at low speeds, giving the hull a chance to ride over rather than dive into them. Do not broach.

The U.S. Coast Guard uses helicopters as well as surface craft for search-and-rescue work. The USCG has equipped fixed-wing aircraft with droppable VHF radios. This equipment may be delivered to the distressed vessel if the Coast Guard is unable to establish communication.

When Coast Guard assistance is provided by helicopter rather than surface craft, the distressed boat’s skipper must know how to participate in the action. Such a rescue is most effective with the advance preparations described below.

• If possible, listen continuously to VHF Channel 16 (156.8 MHz) or other specified frequency.

• Select and clear the most suitable hoist area. For sailboats and powerboats, this often means clearing a dinghy or raft from the deck and towing it astern.

• If the hoist is to be performed in the dark, light the pickup areas as well as possible. Avoid shining any lights on the helicopter, however; this could blind the pilot. If there are obstructions in the vicinity, focus a light on them, making the pilot aware of their positions.

• To facilitate the helicopter pilot’s approach, make sure that he or she knows the pickup area location before the helicopter arrives.

• Remember that there will be a high noise level and significant downwash under the helicopter, so conversation between the deck crew will be almost impossible. Arrange a set of hand signals between those who will be assisting.

• Change the boat’s course, permitting the craft to ride as easily as possible with the wind on the bow, preferably on the port bow. The helicopter pilot’s seat is on the starboard side of the helicopter, which helps to give him or her the best view of the boat; see Figure 12-13.

Figure 12-13 Helicopter rescues are often made by the U.S. Coast Guard. Boaters being so aided must assist in the operation. Know what to do and what not to do. Even though a helicopter may not be a part of your drill, practice what actions you would take in an actual rescue.

• Reduce speed if necessary to ease the boat’s motion, but continue to maintain steerageway.

• On a small craft, there is not enough deck space to permit hoisting directly from the boat. In that case, you must assist the victim into the dinghy for hoisting from there.

• If you do not have radio contact with the helicopter, give a “thumbs up” signal when you are in all respects ready for the hoist; use a flashlight at night.

• Avoid static shock by allowing the basket or litter to touch down on the deck prior to handling.

• If a trail line is dropped by the helicopter, use it to guide the basket or litter to the deck and to steady the litter with moderate hand-held tension; do not fasten it to the boat. Make sure crewmembers’ feet remain clear of the line.

• Place the person to be lifted in the basket, sitting with hands and arms completely inside, or strap him or her in the litter. If possible, the person should be wearing a life jacket. Tag the patient with any medications that have been given or which are being taken regularly; send along identification and other personal papers.

• When the individual is ready to be hoisted, hook up the cable and signal the hoist operator that you are ready to hoist. Steady the litter to keep it from swinging or turning.

• If it is necessary to take a litter away from the hoist point, unhook the hoist cable, keeping it free for the helicopter to haul in. Do not secure the cable to the vessel or attempt to move a litter without unhooking it.

MOB ALERTS

Microelectronics can come to the rescue in emergency man-overboard situations, providing highly audible alerts to the crew on board and guiding the boat back to the person in the water. These alert devices can be especially desirable on boats with small crews and one-person watches. The devices range from a type of wristwatch to a pendant that straps on the wearer’s arm or a clip-on cylinder the size of a small flashlight. When the transmitter is immersed in water or goes outside the range set by the electronic monitoring system, it sends a radio message to a receiver located at the helm station, which sounds an immediate loud alarm. Most devices can also be tied to a GPS receiver, and when the alarm goes off, the MOB position is marked on the GPS display. Some units display the track back to victim; others come with a handheld direction finder that can be very helpful in locating the exact position of the person in the water in choppy seas or poor visibility. Either option could make all the difference in finding a man overboard at night.

The act of abandoning ship is filled with potential hazards and should be undertaken only if your vessel is fully on fire or is in imminent danger of sinking. Abandon ship only as a last resort: In many cases, even vessels that have been seriously damaged will remain afloat for hours, even days, due to their natural buoyancy or to air trapped inside their hulls or superstructures.

At the first indication that a fire or a breach of your hull’s integrity may become grave enough to require abandoning ship, transmit a Mayday call. Review the procedure discussed here, and alert your crew that you are considering that extreme course of action. Give the abandon-ship order only when you are sure that no other option is viable.

• As soon as you even wonder if you might have to abandon ship, make certain that all crewmembers are warmly dressed and wearing personal flotation devices. In waters below 60°F (15°C), crewmembers should also put on immersion suits if they are available. Remember that exposure to hypothermia (extreme loss of body heat) is one of the greatest dangers. Long pants, long-sleeved shirts, sweaters and jackets—even if they are soaked—can help preserve valuable body heat. If you have to order your crew into the raft, they could very well wind up in the water, and warm clothing and a PFD could prove to be the difference between life and death.

In offshore situations, all the life jackets aboard should be Type 1 and, at a minimum, should be fitted with reflective patches and a whistle. Even better, they should also be equipped with strobe-type personal rescue lights and a small EPIRB or Personal Locator Beacon (see Chapter 20).

• Instruct a trained crewmember to stand by the life raft and prepare to launch it. If you carry your life raft belowdecks and/or it must be manually inflated, the crewmember should know where it is located as well as how to inflate it quickly, and that it must be inflated on deck rather than belowdecks or in the cockpit.

• The moment you decide to abandon ship, activate the 406 EPIRB or PLB. Make a VHF/DSC distress call (see "Transmitting a DSC and Voice Mayday Distress Call” earlier in the chapter). (Be sure the GPS is on.) Once activated, the radio will automatically repeat the DSC distress call until the call is answered by the Coast Guard or a ship equipped with a Class A DSC radio capable of acknowledging the DSC Mayday call. Listen for a voice response to your call. If no voice response is heard for 30 seconds, transmit a voice Mayday call on channel 16 to alert any non-DSC-capable radios in range.

Good choices of SSB frequencies would be 4.125, and 6.215 MHz (both simplex, meaning that you transmit and receive on the same frequency); these are monitored by all U.S. Coast Guard long-range communications facilities. Additional channels are monitored 24 hours each day; other frequencies are monitored during the day or night as appropriate for propagation conditions.

• Gather emergency supplies. If you are boating offshore, you should have an abandon-ship bag accessible at all times, stowed where you can grab it quickly on your way to the life raft. Such a bag should include signaling equipment; medical supplies; provisions, including at least a half-gallon of fresh water per person or a hand-operated reverse-osmosis watermaker or solar still; clothing and fishing supplies. Also make sure that your already activated vessel’s EPIRB (see Chapter 20) gets into your life raft.

• Make certain that your life raft is tethered to the boat, and launch it. In heavy seas, launch to leeward amidships—the boat’s most stable point. Once you have launched the raft, one crewmember should steady it while a second crewmember boards.

• Load the rest of your crew into the life raft and have them fend it off from your vessel while you load the emergency gear, to avoid snagging the raft on anything that might puncture it. If at all possible, the crew should step or jump directly into the life raft rather than jumping into the water and then trying to crawl up into it. This not only lessens the danger of crewmembers being swept away from the raft, but in cold waters, it also reduces the danger of hypothermia.

• Make sure your EPIRB is securely attached to your life raft and is indicating that it has been activated, and leave it on. If you have reason to believe that someone is within visual range, fire a red meteor or parachute flare as soon as you depart your vessel.

• If your boat is afire or about to sink, cut the lines tethering the life raft to it. But if it is merely awash, remember that an awash vessel is a larger target to spot than a lone life raft. Keep the life raft tethered to the boat as long as possible. (In heavy seas, free the heaving line and pay out the full length of the raft’s tether—keeping the raft away from the boat to avoid a puncture or being trapped beneath the boat.)