t Pretty Isola San Giulio, sitting in the middle of Lake Orta
At the centre of this mountain town of Roman origin lies the Piazza Mercato, or market square, framed by attractive arcades and houses from the 15th and 16th centuries. Pretty villages to the north include Crodo, with its cold-water mineral spas, and Baceno, where a 14th- to 16th-century church contains fine frescoes and wood carvings.
The smaller towns of the Val d’Aosta region are popular with Italians during the summer months for their lakes and cycling paths. Come winter, they draw skiers and snowboarders from around the world. Outside Turin, the town of Cuneo is popular with locals for its pretty medieval centre and proximity to the ski slopes. Similarly, the Alpine villages of Sestriere and Bardonecchia come alive in winter, as do the resorts of Courmayeur and Cervinia. Further off the beaten track is Macugnaga, a small mountain village popular with hikers and mountaineers.
t Pretty Isola San Giulio, sitting in the middle of Lake Orta
Tiny Lake Orta snakes through mountains and woodlands. Orta San Giulio, a medieval village on a peninsula on the eastern coast, is known for Sacro Monte, a UNESCO-listed place of pilgrimage and worship on a hill overlooking the water. In the centre of the lake, Isola San Giulio, accessible by boat, is home to the 12th-century Basilica di San Giulio. There are good hiking routes around the lake.
t Painted statues in a biblical scene decorating a chapel at the Sacro Monte
The small town of Varallo is home to the remarkable Santa Maria delle Grazie. This late 15th-century church is notable for its beautiful frescoed wall depicting the Life of Christ and trompe l’oeil architectural elements, painted by Gaudenzio Ferrari (1484–1546).
A long stairway behind the church climbs up to the Sacro Monte, a religious community built at an altitude of about 610 m (2,000 ft) under the patronage of the Archbishop of Milan, San Carlo Borromeo.
The Basilica dell’Assunta is a riot of Baroque architecture. Dotted around it are over 40 chapels with statues and painted figures positioned in front of frescoed backdrops painted by Gaudenzio Ferrari, Tanzio da Varallo and others.
⌂ Piazza Ferrari # Daily ∑ sacromontedivarallo.com
Surrounded by mountains, the town of Aosta combines ancient culture and spectacular scenery. The Romans captured it from the Gauls in 25 BC, and Aosta is still dotted with fine Roman architecture built in honour of Emperor Augustus – indeed the town was once called Augusta Praetoria. The centre still consists of a grid of large squares.
⌂ Via Baillage (Roman Theatre), Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII (Roman Forum) # Daily
In Roman times, entry to Aosta was through the Arch of Augustus, a triumphal arch now marred by a roof added in the 18th century. Ahead stands the Porta Pretoria, its double row of stone arches flanked by a medieval tower. Also worth a look is the 20-m- (65-ft-) high façade of the Roman Theatre. A little to the north is the amphitheatre, although this is almost completely buried apart from three columns. In the old town lies the Roman Forum, or marketplace.
" ⌂ Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII § 0165 404 13 # Daily; 3–5pm Sat & Sun (Museo del Tesoro) ¢ For mass
This relatively modest shrine to St John the Baptist has a Gothic interior with floor mosaics and finely carved 15th-century choir stalls. Next door, the Museo del Tesoro contains a rich collection of statuettes and reliquaries.
⌂ Via Sant’Orso # Daily
East of the town walls is this medieval church complex. Sant’Orso itself has a Gothic façade. The interior has 11th-century frescoes and a crypt holding the tomb of St Orso, patron saint of Aosta.
" ⌂ Fénis § 0165 76 42 63 # Daily ¢ Oct–Mar: Mon, 1 Jan, 25 Dec
Just 12 km east of Aosta, this castle has a well-preserved interior with frescoes and wooden galleries.
" ⌂ Issogne § 0125 92 93 73 # Daily ¢ Oct–Mar: Mon
This picturesque medieval castle is located 38 km (23 miles) to the southeast of Aosta. Decorative motifs here include a fountain with a centrepiece in the shape of a pomegranate tree.
Experience Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont
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EAT Edera Locals come here for the excellent seasonal fish and meat menu. B1 ⌂ Via Bersani 15, Orta San Giulio ∑ ristoranteederaorta.com ¡¡¡ Pizzeria La Campana Crisp-based pizzas with simple toppings in a casual environment. B1 ⌂ Via Giovanetti 43, Orta San Giulio § 0322 90 211 ¡¡¡ Taverna Antico Agnello Enjoy dishes such as pasta with rabbit ragout, and duck breast. B1 ⌂ Via Solaroli 5, Miasino ∑ ristoranteanticoagnello.com ¡¡¡ |
t The forbidding abbey complex of Sacra di San Michele
This abbey complex is perched halfway up Monte Pirchiriano, at 962 m (3,156 ft). Its monastic community was founded around AD 1000. During its prime, the abbey attracted pilgrims on their way to Rome, and as a result it grew enormously powerful. It was subsequently looted several times, before falling into decline and eventually being suppressed in 1662.
The sanctuary is reached by climbing 154 steep steps hewn out of the rock. At the top of this stairway, known as the Scalone dei Morti (Stairway of the Dead), is the Romanesque Porta dello Zodiaco, a doorway carved with creatures and symbols relating to the signs of the zodiac. The church itself dates from the 12th–13th centuries. The interior houses 15th- and 16th-century paintings and frescoes, and a 16th-century triptych by the Piedmontese artist Defendente Ferrari.
Perched beside two glacier-fed lakes and encircled by tall mountains, Avigliana looks breathtakingly beautiful. It is overlooked by the ruins of a castle, which was once the home of the Counts of Savoy.
The medieval houses here are largely unspoiled, particularly in the two main piazzas, Santa Maria and Conte Rosso. The church of San Giovanni (13th–14th century) contains early 16th-century paintings by Defendente Ferrari.
Set in a vast plain of paddy fields, Vercelli is the rice capital of Europe. The town also developed its own school of painting in the 1500s. The Museo Borgogna is the best place to admire the town’s Renaissance masterpieces.
The city’s main architectural treasure is the 13th-century Basilica di Sant’Andrea, said to be the first example of Italian architecture to be influenced by the Gothic style of northern France – note the vaulted nave and flying buttresses. Overall, however, the Basilica, built from 1219 to 1227, remains a stunning achievement in Romanesque architecture. The façade changes colour halfway up, the blue-grey of the lower part turning to red and white in the twin towers. Off the north side is a 13th-century cloister framed by arcades.
The church of San Cristoforo houses frescoes and a fine Madonna degli Aranci (both c.1529) by Gaudenzio Ferrari.
" ' ⌂ Via A Borgogna 4/6 # Tue–Fri pm, Sat am (Mar–mid-May also pm), Sun am & pm ∑ museoborgogna.it
⌂ Via S Cristoforo 5 § 0161 25 80 00 # Daily
Novara’s arcaded streets, squares and historic buildings exude a quiet affluence. Many of the main buildings – like the Renaissance courtyard of the Broletto (town hall), with its graceful 15th-century red-brick arcades and covered stairway – stand around Piazza della Repubblica.
Across the piazza is the Duomo, rebuilt in around 1865 in Neo-Classical style. It contains Renaissance paintings of the Vercelli school and Flemish tapestries, as well as the remains of an earlier sanctuary on this site: these include the frescoed 12th-century chapel of San Siro and the 15th-century cloisters. The octagonal Baptistry next door is painted with medieval scenes of the Apocalypse. The Museo della Canonica del Duomo, beside the Duomo, has tombstones and inscriptions from the Roman and early Christian eras.
A few streets away stands the Basilica di San Gaudenzio. It is crowned by an elongated four-tiered dome and spire. Designed by Alessandro Antonelli, it is reminiscent of his Mole Antonelliana in Turin. At the top of the spire, which is 121 m (400 ft) high, is a statue of San Gaudenzio himself. Inside, the late 16th-century church contains a fine collection of Renaissance and Baroque paintings by artists from Piedmont. These include a notable 17th-century battle scene by Tanzio da Varallo and a 16th-century altarpiece by Gaudenzio Ferrari.
⌂ Piazza della Repubblica § 0321 66 16 35 # 9:30am–noon & 3–5:30pm Sat & Sun
⌂ Vicolo della Canonica 9 # 3–6pm Sat & Sun ∑ novariae.it
⌂ Via S Gaudenzio 22 § 0321 62 98 94 # 8am–noon & 2:30–7pm daily
On the second Sunday of September, Asti comes alive with a foodie festival that lasts three days and is said to be one of the truest representations of gastronomic country life in Italy. Farmers and producers from the province serve their best dishes and wines, including polenta, truffles, roasted meats and pastas. It’s one of the region’s most popular festivals, so it’s advisable to book accommodation early.
t A bust of the 18th-century poet Vittorio Alfieri, born in Asti
Renowned for its spumante (sparkling) wine, Asti is a noble city of medieval towers and elegant churches.
On the triangular Piazza Alfieri a statue commemorates the local poet and dramatist Vittorio Alfieri (1749–1803). Corso Alfieri runs the entire length of the old city centre. At its eastern end stands the 15th-century church of San Pietro in Consavia, with its terracotta decoration, 17th-century frescoes and attractive cloister. Beside it is the circular Romanesque Baptistry dating from the 10th to the 12th centuries.
West of Piazza Alfieri is the Collegiata di San Secondo (13th–15th century), which houses a Renaissance polyptych by Gandolfino d’Asti and 15th-century frescoes. The area around the western section of Corso Alfieri contains a few of the medieval towers for which the town was once famous. The nearby 14th-century Gothic Duomo holds 18th-century frescoes, and two 12th- to 13th-century carvings on the west corner of the transept.
t The red rooftops of the town of Alba, famous for its truffles
Piemonte’s gastronomic capital, Alba is the home of Ferrero, Italy’s most famous chocolate export, and of the precious white truffle. Grape lovers come to the region for the excellent Barbera d’Alba and Barolo wines. The town itself is charming, with cobbled streets leading to medieval buildings and palaces. The main drag of Via Cavour takes visitors to Piazza del Duomo, and the striking 11th-century Gothic Cathedral of San Lorenzo. From there, many choose to climb the Sineo, Bonino and Artesiano towers, with spectacular views over the city. Via Vittorio Emanuele snakes past local restaurants and cafés before arriving at the 15th-century Do House on Via Calissano, decorated with imprinted terracotta friezes.
Some excellent artwork can be found in the city, namely at the town hall, where the Caravaggio-style Piccolo Concerto by Mattia Preti stands, as well as a spectacular altarpiece by the avant-garde artist Pinot Gallizio. In nearby Piazza Savona, restaurants and bars do a roaring trade at lunch and in the evening, when locals gather for a pre-dinner cocktail under the arches.
Experience Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont
Alba’s white truffle is among the world’s most valuable fungi, often selling for thousands of euros at auction. These truffles are foraged in the woods around Alba, with dogs trained to sniff them out. The town’s biggest event is the annual White Truffle Fair (October–November).
Some 25 km (16 miles) south of Mondovì, near the end of a scenic route that follows the valley of the Torrente Corsaglia up into the Maritime Alps, are the caves of Bossea, some of the finest in Italy. The series of caves contains remarkable stalactite columns and shapes that have formed over many hundreds of thousands of years. Guided tours lead through different chambers – some of them surprisingly vast – following the underground rivers and lakes. The fascinating skeleton of a prehistoric bear called Ursus spelaeus, which was discovered here, is also on display.
Bring a sweater – the temperature rarely rises above 9°C (50°F).
One of the most attractive resorts of the Maritime Alps, Garessio is little more than a sprinkling of houses spread out over the hills, surrounded by woods of chestnut trees. It is also a very popular spa destination.
According to legend, the waters here have miraculous powers: in about AD 980 an octogenarian nobleman found instant relief from his circulatory problems by drinking the mineral-rich water. Since then, the waters have been drunk for their remedial properties – linked in particular with the relief of diuretic and digestive problems – and for their refreshing taste.
The town of Ormea, 12 km (7 miles) southwest, is known for its ruined 11th-century castle, its church with late 14th-century Gothic frescoes and its attractive houses.
t Low sun in an autumnal landscape in the hills of Le Langhe
Piedmont’s Langhe hills are best known for their wines, cheese and white truffles, making it a gastronome’s paradise. The region is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, thanks to unique winemaking traditions that combine historical methods with modern machinery. Hiking is popular here, thanks to Le Langhe’s rolling hills, topped with medieval towns such as Alba, Serralunga, Morra and Verduno.
Cuneo in Italian means “wedge-shaped”, and this perfectly describes the sliver of land that this town occupies at the confluence of two rivers, the Gesso and the Stura di Demonte. In early November the town hosts the regional cheese fair, with unusual local cheese varieties.
Cuneo centres on a large square, Piazza Galimberti, with its old arcades, where traders come to hawk their wares every Tuesday. Much of the town was rebuilt in the 18th and 19th centuries, providing Cuneo with wide, tree-lined boulevards, though the impressive viaduct that takes the railway line into town dates from the 1930s. The 18th-century church of Santa Croce has a pretty concave façade, designed by Francesco Gallo.
Experience Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont
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EAT Restaurant Larossa Expect a new spin on Piedmontese cuisine, including truffles, at this restaurant. ⌂ Via Don Giacomo Alberione 10d, Alba ∑ ristorantelarossa.com ¡¡¡ Osteria dei Sognatori Head to this local spot for roasted and stewed meats, fresh vegetables and truffle pasta. ⌂ Via Macrino 8, Alba § 333 787 9230 ¡¡¡ La Piola A small, buzzy bistro with a weekly changing menu of dishes made from local produce. Truffles regularly feature in the fare. ⌂ Piazza Risorgimento 4, Alba ∑ lapiola-alba.it ¡¡¡ |