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Suspended between sea, sky and earth, state road 163, which twists and turns along the full length of the Amalfi coast, offers stunning views at every corner. Until the 19th century, this stretch of the “divine coast” was isolated but by the early 1900s it had began to attract travellers, artists and writers. Today, popular pleasures here include beach-hopping and taking trips to coastal summits to admire the breathtaking views.
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On the cliffs at the southern end of the Bay of Naples, Sorrento has ancient origins, seen in the original Greek town plan in the centre. In the summer the town fills with tourists taking in the views or relaxing at cafés. Both Marina Grande and Marina Piccola have small beaches.
t Colourful villas spilling down the hillside to the sea in Positano
Pastel-coloured houses here clamber down a vertiginous slope into the sea, with the oldest houses in the upper part of Positano decorated with pretty Baroque stuccoes. The traffic-free street going down to the sea, Via Pasitea, penetrates the heart of town with its narrow-stepped alleys, houses with vaulted roofs, terraces and tiny gardens that defy the rock. Near the beach is the small church of Santa Maria dell’ Assunta, whose cupola is covered with yellow, blue and green majolica tiles. The descent ends at Marina Grande, lined with high-end bars and restaurants.
t The marble façade of Duomo di Sant’Andrea in Amalfi
Tucked in between mountains and sea, Amalfi is a perennial favourite with visitors for its scenic beauty and original architecture. It also has a glorious history as a powerful maritime republic. Amalfi’s cathedral, the Duomo di Sant’Andrea, founded in the 9th century, was rebuilt in Romanesque style in the 11th century and altered several times. Heading inland from Amalfi, you can visit the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills), known for its traditional paper production, and the Museo della Carta or Paper Museum.
⌂ Via Duca Mansone I # Mar–Oct: 7:30am–7pm daily; Nov–Feb: 9–11:30am, 4:30–7pm daily
⌂ Via delle Cartiere § 089 830 45 61 # Mar–Oct: 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10:30am–3:30pm Tue–Sun
Hidden Gem
Positano can get very busy with day-trippers. To escape the crowds, make the steep ascent to Montepertuso, from where a splendid scenic path leads to the quiet mountain village of Nocelle, a pleasant place to pause for lunch.
Somewhat off the beaten track, Ravello is for those who love peace and quiet – though it does liven up for the Ravello Festival in July and August. The town’s architectural highlights include the Duomo, dedicated to San Pantaleone, the town’s patron saint; Villa Rufolo, famed for its tropical gardens; and Villa Cimbrone, now a small luxury hotel (see box) with spellbinding views of the coast to Punta Licosa.
⌂ Piazza Duomo # 9am–7pm daily ∑ chiesaravello.it
⌂ Piazza Duomo # Summer: 9am–9pm ∑ villarufolo.it
Experience Campania
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STAY Hotel Villa Cimbrone Perched high atop the town of Ravello, this graceful hotel has memorable gardens with idyllic views along the coast, a Michelin-starred restaurant, a pool, and delicately frescoed rooms that once hosted Greta Garbo, D H Lawrence and Gore Vidal. ⌂ Via Santa Chiara 26 ∑ hotelvillacimbrone.com \\\ |