t Pristine landscape and turquoise waters along the Costa Smeralda
t Pristine landscape and turquoise waters along the Costa Smeralda
The islands of the Arcipelago della Maddalena have white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. Linked with Palau, on the mainland, by ferry, the only settlement of any size is La Maddalena, on the Isola Maddalena island. A causeway runs across the sea to the island of Caprera, the home and final resting place of revolutionary hero Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807–82). The Compendio Garibaldino is a small museum in his former home. The archipelago’s smaller islands can be accessed only by boat.
Southeast of Palau, stretching from the Golfo di Arzachena to the Golfo di Cugnana, the Costa Smeralda was developed in the 1950s by a consortium of magnates headed by the Aga Khan. One of the world’s most exclusive holiday playgrounds, it is kept immaculate by strict controls. Its boutiques, restaurants, clubs and luxury hotels cater for the seriously rich, like billionaires, crowned heads and pop stars.
⌂ Forte Arbuticci, Caprera # 8:30am–7:30pm Mon–Sat ∑ compendiogaribaldino.it
Experience Sardinia
There are 7,000 or so nuraghi dotted around Sardinia. Dating from 1800 to 300 BC, these truncated cone structures were built from huge basalt blocks without any bonding. Little is known about the identity of the nuraghic people. They must have possessed remarkable engineering skills, but appear to have left no written record.
Founded by Genoese and Pisan merchants in the 13th century, Sassari has a tight, church-filled medieval quarter around the Duomo (11th-century, with later additions). To the north is the huge Fonte Rosello, a late Renaissance fountain. The Museo Archeologico Nazionale “GA Sanna” is a good starting point for investigating the region’s nuraghic history.
To the southeast along the S131 is the Pisan-Romanesque church of Santissima Trinità di Saccargia (1116), with the only extant 13th-century fresco cycle in Sardinia. Further on is the 12th-century church of San Michele di Salvenero, and at Ardara the basalt-built Romanesque Santa Maria del Regno, or “Black Cathedral”.
" ⌂ Via Roma 64 § 079 27 22 03 # 9am–8pm Tue–Sat & 1st Sun of month
Founded in the 12th century, and taken from the Genoese Dorias by the Aragonese in 1353, Alghero was peopled by settlers from Barcelona and Valencia. Its original occupants – Ligurians and Sardinians – were expelled with such thoroughness that today the Catalan language and culture is enjoying a revival and the look of the old town is consistently Spanish.
Filled with labyrinthine alleys and cobbled streets, the lively port of old Alghero is flanked by battlemented walls and defensive towers on all but the landward section. Facing the Giardino Pubblico is the massive 16th-century Torre di Porta Terra, also known as the Jewish Tower after its builders.
The 16th-century Duomo at the bottom of Via Umberto is predominantly Catalan-Gothic with an Aragonese portal. Off Via Carlo Alberto, San Francesco (14th century) has a pretty cloister and octagonal campanile towering over Alghero, and Baroque San Michele has a bright tiled dome. On Via Principe Umberto is the Casa Doria, the house where the pre-Hispanic rulers of Alghero lived. It has a beautiful Renaissance portal and Gothic-arched window.
Take a boat trip to the spectacular Grotta di Nettuno, a deep natural cave round the point of Capo Caccia, or the nearby Grotta Verde.
Bosa is a small, picturesque seaside town at the mouth of Sardinia’s only navigable river, the Temo. The historic Sa Costa district struggles up the side of a low hill capped by the Castello di Serravalle, built in 1122 by the Malaspina family. The narrow passages and alleys here have changed little since the Middle Ages. By the Temo are Sas Conzas, the former tanneries, dyers’ houses and workshops.
Languishing on the riverside, the cosmopolitan Sa Piatta district houses the Aragonese-Gothic Duomo (15th century) and Romanesque San Pietro Extramuros (11th century), with a Gothic façade added in the 13th century.
This town, in a spectacular setting beneath Monte Ortobene and the dramatic Supramonte, was the home of Grazia Deledda, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1926 for her portrayal of the communities around her. A collection of ethnic items, such as traditional Sardinian costumes and jewellery, can be seen in the excellent Museo Etnografico Sardo.
Nuoro is on the edge of the Barbagia region, which has isolated villages of shepherds who have never experienced the hand of any overlord, so impenetrable are the Gennargentu mountains. This region was known to the Romans as Barbaria, an area they were never able to subdue. In Orgosolo, you may see wall murals calling for Sardinia’s independence.
" ⌂ Via Mereu 56 # 10am–1pm & 3–7pm Tue–Sun (Mar–Sep: to 8pm) ∑ isresardegna.it
Experience Sardinia
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stay Villas Las Tronas This palatial hotel has scenic views, gardens, indoor and outdoor pools, and a Turkish bath. Offering genteel, old-style elegance, it is open all year round. A5 ⌂ Lungomare Valencia 1, Alghero ∑ hotelvillalastronas.it ¡¡¡ Hotel Cala Di Volpe This tranquil resort overlooks the turquoise waters of the Costa Smeralda. The hotel’s design is inspired by traditional Sardinian craftsmanship. B5 ⌂ Loc Cala di Volpe, Porto Cervo ∑ caladivolpe.com ¡¡¡ Valle dell’Erica Resort Thalasso & Spa Looking on to the Maddalena archipelago, this family-friendly resort has four swimming pools and a spa with a hammam. B5 ⌂ Loc Valle dell’Erica, Santa Teresa Gallura ∑ hotelvalledellerica.com ¡¡¡ |
Experience Sardinia
Cala Granara, Isole della Maddalena
B5
A crescent of silvery sand in a sheltered turquoise cove backed by maquis.
Cala Goloritzé, nr Baunei, Orotzei
B5
At the foot of a ravine, This tiny white-sand beach is a great place for snorkelling.
Cala Gonone, Orotzei
B5
This picturesque bay includes several gorgeous beaches reached by footpath.
Sinis Peninsula, Oristano
A6
A series of exquisite beaches of glistening white quartz sand.
Costa Rei, Sarrabus
B6
The beaches of Costa Rei have fabulous turquoise waters and soft, white-gold sands.
East of Nuoro, between the sea and the mountains, is the hamlet of Cala Gonone – a bustling seaside resort and fishing port, with magnificent beaches. Along the unspoiled coast are the isolated coves of Cala Luna, linked with Cala Gonone by a well-marked 2-hour trail, and Cala Sisine. The famous Grotta del Bue Marino, adorned with weird rock formations, can only be reached by boat.
The province of Oristano corresponds roughly with historical Arborea, over which Eleonora of Arborea ruled in the late 14th century. She is commemorated by an 18th-century statue in Piazza Eleonora. On Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the 16th-century Casa di Eleonora, and nearby the Antiquarium Arborense, which has Neolithic, nuraghic, Punic and Roman artifacts. The Torre di San Cristoforo (1291) in Piazza Roma once formed part of Oristano’s fortifications. The Duomo (13th century) was later rebuilt in the Baroque style. More interesting are the churches of Santa Chiara (1343) on Via Garibaldi and 14th-century San Martino on Via Cagliari.
The 12th-century Pisan-Romanesque Cathedral at Santa Giusta has columns probably taken from Tharros, an 8th-century-BC Punic settlement, 20 km (12 miles) west of Oristano on the Sinis Peninsula.
" ' ⌂ Piazza Corrias § 0783 79 12 62 # Daily ¢ 2–3pm Sat & Sun
t The island of Sant’ Antioco, seen from the lagoon
The main town on this tiny island is Sant’Antioco, once a Phoenician port and an important Roman base. Proof of almost continuous occupation is clear from the catacombs, a Phoenician burial place later used by Christians, under the basilica of Sant’Antioco Martire (12th century). The Museo Archeologico has Phoenician artifacts. The Punic Tophet (sanctuary of the goddess Tanit) and the necropolis are located nearby.
" ' ⌂ Piazza Parrocchia 22 § 0781 92 18 87 # 9am–noon & 3:30–5:15pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm Sat), 11am–noon & 3:30–6pm Sun & hols
" ' ⌂ Via Sabatino Moscati § 0781 821 05 # 9am–7pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 25, 26 Dec (& Tophet & necropolis)
t Pastel-coloured buildings in Cagliari’s old town
The capital of Sardinia, Cagliari was occupied by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Romans, and extensive ruins of the Phoenician city of Nora lie to the southwest. A 2nd-century amphitheatre survives from the Roman era, cut from rock. Discover the town’s earlier history in the Cittadella dei Musei, which houses several museums, including the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. The nuraghic items are the most interesting in the collection. Also in the Cittadella dei Musei is the Pinacoteca, an art gallery.
The old core of Cagliari has an appealing North African character. In the high Castello district, the Romans and, later, Pisans built defences. The gracious Bastione San Remy on Piazza Costituzione offers magnificent views over the city and surrounding countryside. The Duomo is a 20th-century rehash of a Romanesque building. Flanking the entrance are two 12th-century pulpits originally destined for Pisa’s cathedral.
Nearby is the Pisan tower Torre San Pancrazio (14th century). Down in Stampace quarter, Piazza Yenne is the lively centre of old Cagliari. In Piazza San Cosimo, the 6th-century church of San Saturnino is a rare monument to Byzantine occupation.
" ⌂ Piazza Arsenale § 070 675 76 27 # 9am–8pm Tue–Sun
Experience Sardinia
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eat Here are some of the best restaurants in Cagliari. Antico Caffè 1855 Landmark bistro with a terrace over the square. ⌂ Piazza Costituzione 10/11 § 070 65 82 06 ¡¡¡ Dal Corsaro Classic cooking by an expert chef. ⌂ Viale Regina Margherita 28 § 070 66 43 18 ¡¡¡ Stella Marina di Montecristo Simple seafood osteria. ⌂ Via Sardegna 140 § 347 578 89 64 ¡¡¡ Su Cumbidu A range of traditional Sardinian dishes. ⌂ Via Napoli 13 § 070 67 07 12 ¡¡¡ |