FERNS
Environment and care
Ferns are the kings of foliage. They don’t even bother with flowers or seeds. They focus 100% on being the lushest and most spectacular display of green in town. As with succulents, there are lots of plant families that can be described as “ferns” even though they are not genetically related. They are so similar in their growth habits and environmental requirements, that they may as well be. The exception is the asparagus fern, which isn’t actually a fern per se because he does produce tiny flowers and then berries with seeds. However he is a firm favourite so mustn’t be left out in the cold simply because he reproduces incorrectly.
IN A KOKEDAMA?
Ferns love humidity. You will see that most of the soil recipes include coir. This is a very dense water-retaining material made from ground up coconut husks. It holds its water and releases it slowly as humidity without being a soggy mess. Most ferns are also going to want a really thick layer of moss. Due to their high humidity requirement they are a great candidate for live moss coverings. Moss needs heaps of humidity, ferns need heaps of humidity – boom, you have the perfect marriage!
RECOMMENDED ROOM
Ferns are ground dwellers, lounging on the forest floor and basking in the soft diffused light filtering down through the vast canopy above. Most ferns won’t tolerate total shade and will be okay in quite bright light as long as it isn’t hot direct sun. They can be hung slightly further back into rooms and will tolerate bathroom light because of the increased humidity on offer.
RECOMMENDED WATERING METHOD
Mist, mist, mist. Then mist some more. Especially if you have used live green moss to cover the ball, he needs a light mist every morning to keep both fern and moss happy. If possible, use a distilled water to prevent salts from damaging delicate leaves. Soak when ball begins to dry. Give leaves a bath occasionally to remove surface build-up. Swish him around under water but be gentle – some ferns, like the maidenhair, have stems which are easily snapped.
Daily misting keeps ferns very happy
Fern kokedama
Typically found on forest floors, their soil mixture should include plenty of organic matter and coarse fibre. Ferns love growing under or on the rotting carcass of fallen trees, so try to imagine and replicate this kind of environment for them. A portion of coconut mulch is a good tree corpse substitute. It takes longer to break down than ordinary wood chips but still provides the same humid atmosphere for fern roots. They just love exploring stuff with their little creeping roots, so having a good texture inside the ball helps them to feel like they have found a great home. The other guy who loves a good tree carcass is moss. Moss and ferns are actually best buds. If you can harvest some live moss from a nearby forest or damp backyard (with landowner’s permission), use it to wrap up Mr Fern and they will live happily ever after.
A davallia has been wrapped using live green moss and fishing nylon
1. Ferns like it moist. Mix all the ingredients for the soil recipe together then make a mud pie.
2. Add enough water so that the mixture can be formed easily into a ball and hold its shape.
3. Make a ball of mud and chunks around the root ball of the fern. Keep in mind that the size of the ball will somewhat define the ultimate size of the fern. Bigger ball equals bigger fern.
4. Place the mud ball on moss. If using wild moss put it green side down on the table and put the ball on what would have been the underside of the moss. Use nylon to wrap, or another synthetic fibre.
Adiantum raddianum Maidenhair fern
Family name
Pteridaceae
Type
Rhizomatous fern (surface-creeping)
Light
Bright
Watering
Moderate
Growth speed
Moderate
Pets
Pet friendly
Common concerns
Underwatering followed by overwatering
SOIL RECIPE
3 parts coir
1 part compost
1 part perlite
Once the correct routine is established and the perfect position found for him, he will reward you with a profusion of delicate soft foliage. Very hard to kill, if kept watered, this crusader will bounce back from most catastrophes. If he does suffer an “accidental drought” and his leaves die, do not be tempted to soak him. Cut off all his wilting foliage at the ball even if it means only 1 or 2 stalks are left. Then he can put all his energy into making new shoots. If you soak him at this point there won’t be enough foliage to draw the moisture up away from the roots and they will rot. Lightly mist the top of the ball daily until you see new growth, then give a brief soak. Once he has a decent amount of foliage you can resume regular care.
Growing conditions
This guy is another dappled light lounger. He likes lots of light, without actual sunbeams touching his foliage and ruining his complexion. He will tolerate lower light conditions but watering must be reduced to account for a slower metabolism and avoid rot. His roots need to have access to humid moisture but not sitting water. He really dislikes cold draughts and will sulk if exposed to them. He sends out creeping shoots just below the surface and pops up new shoots all over the ball. If one is patient eventually this can be one of the most spectacular examples of kokedama.
Water and food
Do not allow to dry out. Give small amounts of water often to keep his moisture even. He loves a good misting on his leaves or a bath to wash his foliage. He will need regular feeding to support new growth. Feed fortnightly with a half-strength organic liquid fertilizer during summer but reduce in winter. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts to 4.5 litres (1.2 US gallons) of water and use every 6 months to improve leaf colour.
Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myersii’ Foxtail fern
Family name
Asparagaceae
Type
Rhizomatous perennial
Light
Bright
Watering
High
Growth speed
Moderate to fast
Pets
Highly toxic
Common concern
Leaf drop
SOIL RECIPE
2 parts compost
1 part potting mix
1 part coir
1 part coconut mulch
He is not technically a fern, and he doesn’t produce tasty asparagus spears like his edible cousin. He is actually a relative of the lily.
He looks and acts so much like a fern though, that it is appropriate to lump him in with ferns.
Unlike other plants, he won’t necessarily see confined spaces as a reason to stay small. Keeping him suspended in kokedama form will limit this vigorous activity somewhat, however if you provide him with growth levels of water and food, he will continue to grow bigger. If he outgrows his ball, it won’t be possible to keep up with his water requirements. Find the level that keeps him lush but lets him know there isn’t enough water for adventure. Given his propensity to obesity, make the ball initially with a good proportion to the existing foliage and aim to keep him this size.
Growing conditions
This guy is great for bathrooms where the light is indirect and the humidity is high. He will tolerate a range of light, within reason. Too dark and he will get leggy stems and sparse foliage. Too much direct sun and he will get burned leaves. But everything in between is fine. He has little pine-needle leaves (actually cladodes) which he does sometimes shed in a very unthoughtful way, all over the place, if something is wrong.
Water and food
Because he has such long bushy and lush fronds, he uses a lot of water. Give him plenty but be careful not to over-fatten him. Because of his tendency towards obesity, be careful with the feeding. Give him liquid fertilizer at half the strength recommended on the packet. As above, if he outgrows his ball he will quickly dry out and die.
Above and below: Asparagus ‘Myersii’ and davallia ferns hanging in a downstairs hang out; davallia and Boston ferns complete the tranquil desk of artist Amanda Fitzsimmons
Asplenium nidus Bird’s nest fern
Family name
Aspleniaceae
Type
Rosette-forming fern
Light
Moderate
Watering
Moderate
Growth speed
Moderate
Pets
Pet friendly
Common concern
Central core rot if overwatered
SOIL RECIPE
3 parts compost
1 part coconut mulch
1 part coir
Beautiful apple green leaves, glossy and rich, cluster together to form an upwards-spreading rosette, making a stunning shape when in a kokedama. He is a very large specimen. Because his leaves are so big, he will accumulate dust on them. It is possible to wipe each leaf with a dampened soft cloth but there is also the bath option. Fill up a bath with enough water to submerge the entire leaf mass and do so. Swish the leaves around under water to give them a good clean. Using the shower is also a great way to give him a hair wash. Just make sure the water is tepid in either scenario.
Growing conditions
Found nestled under or on tropical rainforest trees, the bird’s nest fern loves a mild environment. Make sure he has plenty of indirect light to keep his leaves lush. Hang him near a sunless window, like a bathroom or hallway (entryway); just make sure there aren’t any cold draughts tickling under his leaves. He doesn’t mind lower temperatures, but won’t grow as actively as he would in a warm room. Humidity is key – don’t keep him in the same room as a dehumidifier or air conditioning unit as this will dry him out very quickly.
Water and food
Water often during the growth period so as not to let the ball dry out too much; he really wants to have constant access to lots of moisture. He loves a good frequent misting regime! Keep the mister near his spot so each time you pass you can give his leaves a good spritz.
Avoid letting water build up within his central core. If his leaves remain in contact with water for periods longer than 24 hours, they will begin to decompose.
Liquid fertilizer in with his water once a month during the growing period should be enough, but reduce to only one feed during the autumn (fall)/winter period. Reduce watering during winter months. These ferns will tolerate some drought during their dormancy but not indefinitely.
Davallia trichomanoides Hare’s foot fern
Family name
Davalliaceae
Type
Rhizomatous fern (surface-creeping)
Light
Moderate
Watering
Moderate
Growth speed
Moderate to fast
Pets
Pet friendly
Common concern
None
SOIL RECIPE
3 parts compost
1 part coconut mulch
1 part coir
This guy is such a character! He has these crazy, fluffy tarantula-like rhizomes which creep along the surface. Even though he is known as hare, squirrel or rabbit’s foot, the creeping tendrils really look like giant spider legs. When he’s hanging in a kokedama, these creepy tendrils will trail down towards the ground. Either leave them like this or wrap them around the ball so they can put roots in. Any left outside the ball will grow new fronds even without roots, so your fern can end up creating quite a spectacle of creepy tendrils and fluffy fronds all over the place.
Growing conditions
Hare’s foot likes lots of humidity and warmth. He would normally grow around the base of forest giants and loves decomposing leaf litter, so use a compost or potting mix with a high percentage of organic matter. It’s important to keep moisture available around the roots without letting water sit around them. Coir is great for this because it holds onto water and releases it slowly to the roots.
Water and food
Soak the whole kokedama regularly to keep the soil moist, however let the ball dry out slightly before soaking again. Instead of overwatering by too much soaking, use a daily misting regime to keep his leaves happy. If a mister is nearby, it’s easy to give him a spritz each time you pass by. Use a half-strength organic liquid fertilizer such as a seaweed-based option. Feed regularly in summer, usually once a month. Reduce in winter to avoid root burn. Apply a foliar feed a couple of times over his growth season but not in winter. This just gets added to his mister and applied directly to his leaves.
