Feasting in the Streets

First come the pile drivers to lay the foundations for one of the huge new buildings that seem to be rising on almost every street corner in Bangkok and other major cities. The workers follow, setting up a collection of temporary shacks on or near the site. And then, often simultaneously, the food vendors appear, ready to supply a quick, inexpensive and above all convenient meal to anyone who happens to crave one.

Amidst the aroma of charcoal fires and cooked foods, Thailand's street vendors sell an impressive variety of food. Customers can sit down to enjoy their meal and watch the unfolding street scene whilst adding to the colorful mosaic themselves. A Thai city street without food vendors is as hard to imagine as one devoid of traffic

As a result of this widespread interest, Thai street food has evolved into a distinctive culinary category all its own. generally characterized by speed of preparation (if any is done on the spot) and easy portability of equipment. It can be divided into two categories: snacks and more substantial fare, meaning that one can buy what amounts to a multi-course meal without setting foot in a restaurant

Snacks come in various shapes and sizes Some may consist of nothing more than freshly sliced fruit sprinkled with salt, sugar, dried chilies or a combination of these seasonings. Others may be a selection of traditional sweets, prepared by the vendor at home and temptingly arranged in a display case.

Other vendors offer noodle creations adequate for a fast, nourishing lunch. To produce the universally popular kwaytiaow soup, a bowl of freshly cooked rice noodles is given a few ladles of meat stock, then topped with precooked pork or chicken, and sprinkled with sugar, crushed peanuts and dried chili flakes, while for Pad Thai the noodles are quickly stir-fried with garlic, spring onions, dried shrimp, tamarind and a variety of spices. Gai Yang, northeastern-style barbecued chicken, is grilled over a charcoal brazier and served with side orders of glutinous rice and green papaya salad.

Just about every governor of Bangkok has tried, at some point in their tenure, to outlaw the city's food vendors. General untidiness, civic hygiene and even sidewalk obstruction are among the reasons cited for banishing Bangkok's colorful street vendors.

However, all have failed for the simple reason that the vendors fill a clearly perceived need for a substantial number of Bangkok's residents. Take away the opportunity for Thais to enjoy a quick, delicious meal and, as one irate fan wrote indignantly to a local newspaper, "it would be the end of civilization as we know it."

Duck Noodle Soup, a popular streetside favorite

An artist's impression of "food to go" in Thailand, where pushcarts and street stalls are an essential part of everyday life