When I rang the doorbell at La Vecchia Scuola for the first time, I was greeted by a broad shouldered woman clad in a flower print smock. Alessandra Spisni bellowed, “BUONGIORNO,” in the singsong sway of the bolognesi. At first glance, the eight-time world champion of La Sfoglia d’Oro competition was intimidating to say the least, but I was immediately enamored of her gentle nature and generosity.
A pasta maker since the age of six, Alessandra embodies the soul of the sfoglina. When you watch her roll sfoglia, it’s like a dance in which each partner is intimately aware of the movements and tempo, but understands the dance is never the same. “Piano, piano, in harmonia,” she would say while instructing her students—in harmony and with patience. Another lesson that stuck with me is “perchè la sfoglia non è sempre uguale”—the pasta sheet isn’t always the same. The maestra showed me a true sense of harmony in pasta making that can only be discovered through practice and patience. I feel so fortunate to be a student of Alessandra’s. Her command of the bolognese kitchen and innate ability with the mattarello made a monumental impression on me. Her love and patience are what guide me today and what I offer you in this book. Aside from Lee Hefter, of Spago Beverly Hills, Alessandra stands alone as the single most influential figure of my career.
