In Emilia-Romanga, this ragù is typically made with wild hare, but as that isn’t always readily available elsewhere, I’ve substituted rabbit here. The fattier, less gamey meat yields a lighter, more supple sauce, making it ideal for lunch or a light dinner. You can use the sauce right away, but I think it’s improved after sitting in the refrigerator overnight, or for up to 3 days. Just be sure to let it cool completely before refrigerating and keep it tightly covered.
MAKES 31/2 QT SAUCE, SERVING 6
1 2.5 TO 3 LB [1.1 TO 1.4 KG] WHOLE RABBIT, WASHED AND PATTED DRY
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
6 TBSP [84 G] UNSALTED BUTTER
31/2 OZ [100 G] PANCETTA, DICED
6 TO 8 FRESH SAGE LEAVES, TORN
3 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1 DRIED BAY LEAF
1 PINCH OF FENNEL POLLEN (OPTIONAL)
3 CELERY STALKS, FINELY DICED
1 MEDIUM YELLOW ONION, FINELY DICED
1 MEDIUM CARROT, FINELY DICED
1 SMALL FENNEL BULB, OUTER LAYER DISCARDED, FINELY DICED
2 CUPS [480 ML] DRY WHITE WINE
1.5 QT [1420 ML] BRODO DI CARNE (PAGE 237), OR BEEF CONSOMMÉ
1 RECIPE STROZZAPRETI (PAGE 232)
1/2 CUP [50 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Season the rabbit all over with salt and pepper and set aside. In a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, melt 4 Tbsp [56 g] of butter. Add the rabbit legs and sear on all sides until golden brown, about 6 minutes total. Transfer to a sheet tray and set aside.
Decrease the heat to low and add the pancetta. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown and crispy and the fat has rendered, about 4 minutes. Add the sage, garlic, bay leaf, and fennel pollen (if using) and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium and add the celery, onion, carrot, and fennel. Season with salt and cook until the vegetables are golden and tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Add the wine and bring to a boil. Cook until the alcohol aroma dissipates and the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Stir in the brodo. Return the mixture to a boil and transfer the rabbit back to the pot. Decrease the heat to low and half-cover the pot. Simmer until the legs are very tender and the meat is falling off the bone, 2 to 3 hours.
Remove the pot from the heat and gently transfer the rabbit to a platter to cool for about 15 minutes. When the rabbit is cool enough to handle, pull all the meat from the bones and roughly chop it, discarding the bones, paying special attention to the tiny rib bones. Return the pot to medium heat. Bring the sauce to a rapid simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced by about half, 20 to 30 minutes more. Stir the chopped meat into the sauce and season with salt.
Transfer 5 cups [1.1 kg] of the sauce to a large sauté pan or skillet. (Store the extra sauce according to the instructions following.) Place the pan over medium heat. Bring the sauce to a rapid simmer and cook until the sauce reduces slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 2 Tbsp butter and swirl to emulsify. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the strozzapreti. Cook until tender, 1 to 11/2 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and stir to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 6 months.
