An earthy sauce of duck dates back to the Renaissance, a time when Bologna was at its peak and diners the city over ate intricate dishes with deeply layered flavors.
SERVES 6
4 DUCK LEGS (32 OZ [908 G]), RINSED AND PATTED DRY
2 OZ [57 G] CHICKEN HEARTS, RINSED AND PATTED DRY
2 OZ [57 G] CHICKEN GIZZARDS, RINSED AND PATTED DRY
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
5 TBSP [70 G] UNSALTED BUTTER
2 OZ [57 G] PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA (SEE PAGE 250), FINELY CHOPPED
5 FRESH SAGE LEAVES
ONE 6 IN [15 CM] SPRIG FRESH ROSEMARY, LEAVES PICKED AND FINELY CHOPPED
2 CELERY STALKS, GROUND OR FINELY CHOPPED
1 LARGE CARROT, FINELY CHOPPED
1 MEDIUM YELLOW ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1 TBSP TOMATO PASTE
2 CUPS [480 ML] DRY RED WINE
2 CUPS [480 ML] LOW-SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH
1 RECIPE PAPPARDELLE (PAGE 76)
1/2 CUP [50 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Season the duck legs, chicken hearts, and chicken gizzards all over with salt and pepper and set aside on a platter.
In a large high-sided sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, melt the butter until frothy and golden. Add the duck legs and cook on both sides until the fat is rendered and the meat is golden, about 15 minutes total. Remove from the pan.
Add the chicken hearts and gizzards to the sauté pan and sear on both sides until golden, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the pan and let cool for about 10 minutes. Pass the hearts and gizzards through a meat grinder, or roughly chop them.
Decrease the heat under the pan to low and add the prosciutto, sage, and rosemary. Cook until the prosciutto is lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the celery, carrot, and onion and cook until golden brown and softened, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the ground hearts and gizzards and cook for about 4 minutes until browned. Add the tomato paste and stir vigorously to incorporate, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add the chicken broth. Increase the heat to medium and bring the mixture to a simmer.
Decrease the heat to low and add the duck legs. Half-cover the pan and cook until very tender, about 2 hours.
Remove the duck legs from the sauce and set aside to cool. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the sauce to a rapid simmer. Cook until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, pull the cooled duck meat from the bones and shred it, discarding any soft skin. Return the meat to the pan. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, unfurl the pappardelle rolls onto a tray. Gather the strands and, working quickly in batches, drop them into the boiling water. Stir to separate the strands and cook until tender, 1 to 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
