Jeda is, essentially, a walnut and garlic pesto that’s a staple of la cucina povera—poor people’s cooking—in the Apennine Mountains that border southern Bologna. Some versions throw in boiled potatoes, which were a welcome addition for the hungry peasants working the fields; they needed every last morsel and calorie they could get. I prefer a lighter approach, so I omit them.
SERVES 6
2 CUPS [240 G] WALNUT HALVES
2 GARLIC CLOVES
51/2 OZ [150 G] PANCETTA, CUT INTO 1/4 IN [6 MM] BATONS
1 SPRIG FRESH ROSEMARY
KOSHER SALT
1 RECIPE MALTAGLIATI (PAGE 100), OR 700 G [ABOUT 11/2 LB] PASTA FROM YOUR MALTAGLIATI PILE (SEE PAGE 100)
11/2 CUPS [150 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Preheat the oven to 300°F [150°C]. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Spread the walnuts evenly over the prepared baking sheet and toast until mahogany colored, about 10 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor, add the garlic, and pulse until the walnuts are the size of peas, about 1 minute.
In a large skillet over medium heat, cook the pancetta, stirring occasionally, until crispy and the fat has rendered, about 3 minutes. Fry the whole sprig of rosemary in the rendered fat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove to a plate and set aside to cool, then pick the leaves and set aside. Discard the stem. Stir the walnut mixture into the rendered fat in the skillet. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the maltagliati and stir to separate the pieces. Cook until tender, about 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta and a splash of the pasta cooking water to the sauce. Stir vigorously to emulsify. Add additional pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Stir in 1/2 cup [50 g] of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve immediately with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top. Garnish with the rosemary.
