The bolognese approach to this dish, one that evokes the wild flavors of the hills around the city, would be to boil everything together before chopping it all up. I prefer to give the ingredients a little more love, cooking the herbs first then sautéing the greens in the same pan. This creates a greater depth of flavor and helps compensate for the milder-tasting farm-grown herbs we tend to find in the States and elsewhere.
SERVES 6
11/2 CUPS [360 ML] EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 GARLIC CLOVE, SMASHED
1/2 CUP [6 G] LOOSELY PACKED FRESH MINT LEAVES
4 FRESH SAGE LEAVES
2 TBSP FRESH MARJORAM LEAVES
FRONDS FROM 1 FENNEL BULB
4 OZ [113.5 G] DANDELION GREENS, OR RADICCHIO, TORN
4 OZ [113.5 G] RAPINI (BROCCOLI RABE), TORN
4 OZ [113.5 G] WATERCRESS, TORN
4 OZ [113.5 G] TURNIP GREENS
4 OZ [113.5 G] ARUGULA, TORN
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1/4 CUP [60 ML] DRY WHITE WINE
3 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER
1 RECIPE MALTAGLIATI (PAGE 100), OR 700 G (ABOUT 11/2 LB) PASTA FROM YOUR MALTAGLIATI PILE (SEE PAGE 100)
1/2 CUP [50 G] GRATED PECORINO ROMANO
In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil until it begins to shimmer. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mint, sage, marjoram, and fennel fronds and cook until aromatic, about 45 seconds.
Add the dandelion greens, rapini leaves, watercress, turnip greens, and arugula, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted, about 4 minutes. Add the wine and cook until the greens are very tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and spread the mixture on a cutting board, reserving the pot and the liquid in it.
After about 10 minutes, when the greens and herbs are cool enough to handle, chop everything into small pieces. Alternatively, transfer them to the bowl of a food processor and pulse. Return the pot to medium heat and add the butter to melt. Add the chopped greens and herbs and stir to coat. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the maltagliati and stir to separate the pieces. Cook until tender, about 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and stir to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the cheese sprinkled on top.