This braised lamb ragù is an Easter specialty in Emilia-Romagna, marrying the Christian symbolism of the sacrificial lamb with the natural rhythms of nature. In Bologna, suckling lambs are slaughtered in spring just as peas come into season. The tender meat is simmered with herbs and sweet seasonal peas, resulting in a soulful sauce with deep flavor. If you don’t have access to fresh peas, substitute frozen. You can use the sauce right away, but I think it’s improved after sitting in the refrigerator overnight, or for up to 3 days. Just be sure to let it cool completely before refrigerating and keep it tightly covered.
SERVES 6; MAKES 4 QT/16 CUPS [3.2 KG] SAUCE
3 LB [1.4 KG] LAMB SHOULDER, CUT INTO 1 IN [2.5 CM] CUBES
5 OZ [141 G] PANCETTA, CUT INTO 1 IN [2.5 CM] CUBES
4 CELERY STALKS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LARGE YELLOW ONION, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LARGE CARROT, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 SMALL FENNEL BULB, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
11/4 CUPS [300 ML] EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
5 FRESH SAGE LEAVES, TORN
2 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1 SPRIG ROSEMARY, LEAVES REMOVED
1 BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH
1 TBSP TOMATO PASTE
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
11/2 CUPS [360 ML] DRY RED WINE
3 CUPS [675 G] PASSATA DI POMODORO (PAGE 236)
2 CUPS [450 G] BRODO DI CARNE (PAGE 237), OR LOW-SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH
2 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER
1 RECIPE GARGANELLI (PAGE 124)
1 CUP [100 G] FINELY GRATED PECORINO ROMANO
Using a meat grinder, or a grinder attachment, fitted with a large die, grind the lamb shoulder into a large bowl and set aside. Without cleaning the grinder, grind the pancetta into a small bowl and set aside. Grind the celery, onions, carrot, and fennel into a separate large bowl and set aside.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, heat the oil until it begins to shimmer. Add the ground pancetta and cook until the fat has rendered, about 1 minute. Add the sage, garlic, rosemary, and bay leaf and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the ground vegetables. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown and softened, about 15 minutes.
Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the vegetables. Add the ground lamb and generously season with salt and a small amount of pepper. Using a wooden spoon, delicately mix the meat and vegetables, stirring from the bottom of the pot. Cook until the meat releases its juices, 6 to 8 minutes.
Stir in the wine and cook until the contents of the pan begin to steam. Stir in the passata, add the brodo, and decrease the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, 3 to 5 hours. Begin tasting for tenderness and seasoning after 3 hours.
Transfer 4 cups [900 g] of the ragù to a large high-sided sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. (Store the extra sauce according to the instructions following.) Bring the sauce to a rapid simmer and cook until the the sauce reduces slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the butter and swirl to emulsify. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the garganelli. Cook until tender, 21/2 to 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and stir to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the Pecorino Romano sprinkled on top.
The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 7 days or frozen for up to 6 months.
