Tomatoes may be synonymous with Italian cuisine, but they are mostly conspicuously absent from the cuisine of Bologna. The local custom calls for tomatoes to be harvested in summer when extended families get together, then blanched, milled, and bottled, or even just blanched, skinned, and bottled whole. These products are then used sparingly throughout the coming year, hence the association with oro (gold) in the recipe title.
In classic bolognese style, the tomatoes here aren’t flavored with olive oil or garlic or basil—just a big old knob of butter, which imparts a rich, velvety elegance that clings beautifully to the pasta.
SERVES 6
3 CUPS [675 G] PASSATA DI POMODORO (PAGE 236)
16 TBSP [2 STICKS, OR 224 G] UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO PIECES
KOSHER SALT
1 RECIPE TORTELLONI (PAGE 152)
1 CUP [100 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
In a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, bring the passata to a rapid simmer. Add the butter, season with salt, and swirl to emulsify, about 90 seconds. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the tortelloni and cook until very tender, 21/2 to 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and gently swirl to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Add 2 Tbsp of Parmigiano-Reggiano and swirl to incorporate. Serve immediately with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
