It’s a common misconception that all meat ragùs have tomato sauce in them. This “white” ragù is proof you don’t miss anything by omitting it. On the contrary, the absence of the tomato’s acid lets the lovely porkiness of the dish shine through unadulterated. You can use the sauce right away, but I think it’s improved after sitting in the refrigerator overnight, or for up to 3 days. Just be sure to let it cool completely before refrigerating and keep it tightly covered. If you don’t have a meat grinder, ask your butcher to grind the meat for you. Use any leftover sauce to dress pasta for another meal, or eat smeared on bread.
SERVES 6; MAKES 3 QT/12 CUPS [2.4 KG] SAUCE
2 LB [907 G] BONELESS PORK SHOULDER, CUT INTO 1/2 IN [12 MM] CUBES
5 OZ [141 G] PANCETTA, CUT INTO 1/2 IN [12 MM] CUBES
5 OZ [141 G] PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA, CUT INTO 1/2 IN [12 MM] CUBES
5 OZ [141 G] MORTADELLA, CUT INTO 1/2 IN [12 MM] CUBES
4 CELERY STALKS, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LARGE YELLOW ONION, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 LARGE CARROT, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
5 OZ [141 G] STRUTTO
KOSHER SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 CUPS [480 ML] DRY WHITE WINE
3 CUPS [709 ML] BRODO DI CARNE (PAGE 237), OR LOW-SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH
2 TBSP UNSALTED BUTTER
1 RECIPE TORTELLONI (PAGE 152)
1 CUP [100 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Using a meat grinder, or a grinder attachment, fitted with a large die, grind the pork shoulder into a large bowl and set aside. Without cleaning the grinder, grind the pancetta and prosciutto two times into a medium bowl. Grind the mortadella into the same medium bowl and set aside. Grind the celery, onion, and carrot into another medium bowl and set aside.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, melt the strutto. Add the ground pancetta, prosciutto, and mortadella and cook until the fat from the pancetta has rendered, about 4 minutes. Add the ground vegetables and cook, stirring frequently, until they are golden and tender, around 15 minutes.
Add the ground pork and generously season with salt and a small amount of pepper. Using a wooden spoon, gently mix the meat and vegetables, stirring from the bottom of the pot. Cook until the meat releases its juices, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook until the contents of the pan begin to steam. Stir in the brodo and turn the heat to low.
Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, 3 to 5 hours. Begin tasting for fork-tenderness and seasoning after 3 hours. Transfer 4 cups [1 kg] of sauce to a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. (Store the extra sauce according to the instructions following.) Bring the sauce to a rapid simmer and cook until the sauce reduces slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the butter and swirl to emulsify. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the tortelloni and cook until very tender, 21/2 to 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce and stir to coat. Add some pasta cooking water, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 10 days or frozen for up to 6 months.
