When Maestra Alessandra was young, she worked for a time as a sfoglina in Rome. She was horrified to find there the tortellini served swimming in cream sauce. As a Bologna native, any pairing but tortellini in brodo was considered blasphemous. Eventually, she invented smeraldine (“little emeralds”)—basically, tortellini made with Spinach Dough—her version of a compromise with tradition. The green dough contrasted with the white cream sauce and she changed the filling to work better with the spinach and cream flavors.
SERVES 6
1 QT [960 ML] HEAVY CREAM
2 CUPS [480 ML] BRODO DI CARNE (PAGE 237), OR LOW-SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH
KOSHER SALT
1 RECIPE TORTELLINI (PAGE 176) MADE WITH SFOGLIA VERDE AGLI SPINACI (PAGE 42) AND FILLED WITH RIPIENO PER SMERALDINE (PAGE 179)
3/4 CUP [75 G] FINELY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
In a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, simmer the cream until it is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add 11/2 cups [360 ml] of brodo, return the mixture to a simmer, and season with salt. Set the sauce aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Season the water with salt (see page 25). When the salt dissolves, add the tortellini and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
Return the sauce to medium heat. Using a spider, transfer the pasta to the sauce, being careful not to carry over any pasta cooking water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes, swirling occasionally. Add 1/4 cup [25 g] of Parmigiano-Reggiano and continue swirling to incorporate. Add the remaining 1/2 cup [120 ml] brodo, as needed, to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately with the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano sprinkled on top.
