Just about any savory dish that can be eaten as “finger food” or in small quantities can be served as an appetizer. Any light dish—a soup, salad, or pâté for instance—served as a first course at sit-down meals is considered an appetizer. In this section we are primarily concerned with finger foods. No matter how they are served, appetizers are a wonderful way for the creative cook to set the stage for the meal to come.

Here are some general guidelines when planning and presenting appetizers:

The Cheese Board

A simple and popular appetizer course is the cheese board (see the Cheese Board chart on page 144 for some guidelines). Serve only four types of cheese, and plan on only 1 ounce of each type of cheese per person. So for a party of six people, that would be four 6-ounce chunks of cheese, or 1½ pounds total. Cut back to three cheeses if the meal to follow is rich.

With the cheese, serve plain breads and crackers—no seasoned or salted ones. Seasonings tend either to fight with or mask the flavor of the cheese.

Do not cut the cheese ahead of time. Precutting, which exposes many surfaces to the air, causes the cheese to dry out.

Serve aged cheeses at room temperature to enjoy their full flavors and creamy textures. Allow 20 to 60 minutes for a cheese to warm up, and only warm the amount of cheese needed. Continual rewarming ages cheese. While the cheese is warming, keep it covered to prevent the surfaces from drying out. Fresh cheeses are tastiest when chilled. Leave them in the refrigerator until just before ready to serve.

CHILI-LIME TORTILLA CHIPS

Since there are so many different flavors of flour tortillas available these days, experiment with a couple of them. It would be fun, too, to use some in different colors to make your chips more playful. How about spinach (green), tomato (red), and curry (yellow)?

  • 6 tablespoons lime juice (2 to 3 limes)
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 1½ teaspoons ground coriander
  • 4 multi-grain flour tortillas (6 inches)

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, chili powder, and coriander. Brush the spiced lime juice mixture on the tortillas and cut each into 6 wedges. Bake until crisp, about 10 minutes.

MAKES 24 CHIPS

CHEESE BOARD

An interesting cheese board can be either different versions of one type of cheese or a mixture of several different types. Unless you know your guest’s tastes very well, you’re probably better off with mixing and matching the different types. Use the chart below as a guide, and choose one cheese from each category. The cheeses listed are merely representational of what you could put on your cheese board because the options, both domestic and imported, are staggering.
UNRIPENED BLUE SEMI -SOFT FIRM
Montrachet (French goat cheese) Cabrales (Spanish) Port du Salut Manchego
Boursin Roquefort (French) Gouda Parrano
String cheese Gorgonzola (Italian) Oka Cheshire
Mozzarella Stilton (English) Saint Paulin Jarlsberg
American goat cheese American blue cheese Taleggio American Cheddar

Another category of cheese, called soft-ripened, has some of the most delicious cheeses available. But because they tend to be very high in fat (which is what makes them great tasting, of course), they are a little harder to fit into an appetizer course. However, if you reduce the total amount of cheese you put out, then by all means consider one of these: Brie, Camembert, Brillat-Savarin, Saint André, Robiola, Chaource, or any other double-crème or triple-crème cheese.

PARMESAN CHEESE TOASTS

These make great appetizers, but would also be a great accompaniment to soup.

  • 1 whole wheat baguette (about 15 inches)
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • ½ teaspoon Italian herb seasoning, store-bought or homemade
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the baguette on a slight diagonal into slices about ½ inch thick.

In a small bowl, combine the oil and Italian seasoning. Brush both sides of the bread slices with the oil mixture. Place on a baking sheet and bake 7 minutes.

Turn the slices over and sprinkle the Parmesan on top. Bake for 5 minutes, or until the edges are crisp and the cheese has melted and is lightly browned.

MAKES 30 TOASTS

SALSAS

Salsas make simple appetizers. Serve them with chips, crudités, or whole-grain toasts.

Roasted Tomatillo Salsa (page 607)

Fresh Tomato-Chipotle Salsa (page 608)

Roasted Vegetable Salsa (page 608)

Autumn Pear Salsa (page 609)

Tomato & Lime Salsa (page 608)

Mango-Jicama Salsa (page 609)

Nectarine Salsa (page 609)

LEMON-OLIVE TAPENADE

You can prepare this delicious olive puree up to a week in advance—its flavors only improve. Serve with crackers or use as a sandwich spread.

  • 1 cup pitted brine-cured black olives, such as Niçoise or kalamata
  • 1 medium shallot, quartered
  • 1 large clove garlic
  • 4 anchovy fillets
  • 2 tablespoons capers
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • ⅛ teaspoon pepper
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

In a food processor, combine the olives, shallot, garlic, anchovies, capers, lemon zest, lemon juice, and pepper, and process until it forms a smooth paste. With the processor running, slowly pour in the oil. Transfer to a medium bowl and fold in the parsley. Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to 10 days.

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

OLIVADE

You can use this savory spread on bread or as a dip for crudités. From age blanc is a moist, fresh cheese. If you have difficulty finding it, substitute part-skim ricotta.

  • 8 ounces fromage blanc
  • 2 tablespoons minced red onion
  • 1 tablespoon capers, chopped
  • ½ cup finely chopped pitted kalamata or other brine-cured black olives
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 tablespoon snipped chives
  • Coarse salt and pepper
  • Chopped parsley, for garnish

Put the cheese in a medium bowl and blend in the onion and capers. Fold in the olives, oil, and chives. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve right away or refrigerate, but bring back to room temperature to serve. Sprinkle with parsley and drizzle with a little extra oil before serving

MAKES1½ CUPS

BLACK KALE BRUSCHETTA

These simple toasts make a great appetizer or a side dish for a hearty bean soup. If desired, top with a little grated Parmesan cheese.

  • 1½ pounds black kale (or other kale), long stems removed
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
  • Large pinch of red pepper flakes
  • 5 cloves garlic, 3 thinly sliced and 2 whole
  • Coarse salt and black pepper
  • ½ loaf crusty whole wheat Italian bread, cut into eight ½-inch-thick slices

Slice the kale leaves in half crosswise. In a large, deep skillet or wok, heat the 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the red pepper flakes and sliced garlic. Cook, stirring, about 30 seconds (do not brown).

Add the kale, in batches if necessary, and cook until just tender (but not completely limp). Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cover and keep warm.

Toast or grill the bread until slightly crusty. Lightly brush with olive oil. Cut the whole garlic cloves in half and lightly rub over the toasts. Top the toasts with the cooked kale.

MAKES 8 BRUSCHETTA

RADISH SANDWICHES WITH CRESS BUTTER 

This is one of the easiest and tastiest ways to enjoy fresh spring radishes. You can find Easter Egg radishes in pretty pink, purple, and white hues at the market in April and May, but any small, thin-skinned variety is fine.

  • ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, at room temperature
  • ½ cup goat cheese, at room temperature
  • 1 cup loosely packed watercress sprigs, tough stems discarded
  • ¼ teaspoon coarse salt, plus more for sprinkling
  • 8 slices whole wheat baguette
  • 8 large Easter Egg or other radishes, thinly sliced

In a food processor, combine the butter, goat cheese, watercress, and salt. Pulse until blended into a paste. Spread the bread slices with the cress butter. Top with radish slices and sprinkle very lightly with salt.

MAKES 8 OPEN-FACE SANDWICHES

CELERY ROOT PANCAKES WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE 

Little appetizer pancakes are often served with crème fraîche and caviar, but for a cheaper alternative, our version uses olive paste (tapenade) instead.

  • 2 medium celery roots
  • 2½ teaspoons coarse salt
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • ¼ cup whole wheat flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons milk
  • ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted and cooled
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup crème fraîche, store-bought or homemade (page 487) or sour cream
  • ½ cup Lemon-Olive Tapenade
    2 tablespoons snipped chives

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

CHUNKY GUACAMOLE 

Serve with store-bought baked chips or homemade Chili-Lime Tortilla Chips

  • 2 Hass avocados
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup grape tomatoes, chopped
  • ⅓ cup minced red onion
  • ⅓ cup minced cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 teaspoon green hot pepper (jalapeño) sauce

Halve the avocados and scoop the flesh into a large bowl. Add the salt and mash with a fork or potato masher. Mash in the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, lime juice, and pepper sauce.

MAKES 3 CUPS

ROMESCO DIP 

Based on a traditional sauce from Spain that is used for topping grilled vegetables, this dip goes perfectly with a variety of vegetables, or try it with Herbed Pita Chips (page 144).

  • 1 red bell pepper, cut lengthwise into flat panels
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, smashed and peeled
  • 1 ounce Italian or French bread, torn
  • 10 whole almonds
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 2 tablespoons orange juice
  • 2 tablespoons 2% Greek yogurt
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat the broiler. Broil the pepper pieces, skin side up, 4 inches from the heat for 12 minutes, or until the skin is charred. Turn the pepper pieces over on the broiler pan to cool. Peel.

In a small skillet, heat the oil over low heat. Add the garlic, bread, and almonds, and cook until the bread is golden brown, about 3 minutes.

Transfer to a food processor and add the roasted pepper and tomato paste and puree until not quite smooth. Add the orange juice, yogurt, and salt, and pulse until combined.

MAKES 1 CUPS

EDAMAME DIP 

Edamame (green soybeans) can be found in the freezer section of many supermarkets. They’re a great source of protein (8 grams per ½ cup), so keep them on hand for this dip or for of Spiced Edamame

  • 1 cup frozen shelled edamame
  • ⅔ cup packed fresh basil leaves
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
  • 3 tablespoons lemon juice
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

In a small pot of boiling water, cook the edamame until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain.

Transfer to a food processor along with the basil, oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt, and puree until smooth.

MAKES 1 CUPS

LEMON-CARROT HUMMUS 

Carrot adds a subtle sweetness to this lighter rendition of the classic chickpea dip. Dark sesame oil, sometimes called toasted sesame, lends a sesame flavor with a lighter touch than traditional tahini.

  • 1 carrot, thinly sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 1¾ cups cooked chickpeas
  • 3 tablespoons dark sesame oil
  • 3 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons plain low-fat yogurt
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

In a small saucepan, combine the carrot and garlic with water to cover. Cook over medium heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Reserving the cooking liquid, drain and transfer the solids to a food processor. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved cooking liquid.

Add the chickpeas, sesame oil, lemon juice, yogurt, and salt, and process until smooth.

MAKES 1⅔ CUPS

PINTO BEAN DIP 

Red or white kidney beans would work nicely here, as would other mild, meaty beans like cranberry.

  • 2 cups dried pinto beans
  • 2 slices bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices
  • 3 large cloves garlic
  • 4 teaspoons chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
  • 1 small pickled jalapeño pepper, halved
  • 1 small Vidalia or other sweet onion, finely minced

In a medium saucepan, combine the beans with water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside for 1 hour. Drain the beans.

In the same saucepan (wiped dry), cook the bacon over medium-high heat until it has rendered most of its fat. Add the drained beans, garlic, chili powder, cumin, and salt. Add water to cover by 2 inches and bring to a boil. Partially cover and cook at a low boil until the beans are tender, or 40 minutes to 1 hour.

Reserving the cooking liquid, drain the beans and transfer to a food processor. Add the tomatoes and jalapeño, and process to a smooth puree. Use some of the cooking liquid, if necessary, to get the dip to the right consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Stir in the onion and transfer to a serving bowl.

MAKES 3 CUPS

CASHEW DIP 

The natural sweetness of the cashews works nicely in this sweet and sour dip. Serve with fresh vegetables.

  • ½ cup raw cashews
  • 4 teaspoons vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon Major Grey’s chutney
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon sliced fresh ginger
  • 2 scallions, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon mild curry powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 2 tablespoons water

In a food processor, combine the cashews, oil, chutney, vinegar, ginger, scallions, curry powder, salt, cayenne, and water, and puree until not quite smooth, with a little texture.

MAKES ⅛ CUP

CARAME LIZED ONION DIP 

 

152-1

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Carame Lized Onion Dip

Nonfat Greek yogurt makes a lovely creamy backdrop to the flavors of fresh dill and caramelized onion.

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • ¼ cup water
  • 1 container (7 ounces) 0% Greek yogurt (generous ¾ cup)
  • ¼ cup snipped fresh dill
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper

In a large skillet, heat the oil over low heat. Add the chopped onion and water, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 15 minutes.

Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. Stir in the yogurt, dill, salt, and pepper. Chill until ready to serve.

MAKES 1⅓ CUPS

YOGURT CHEESE WITH THREE FLAVORS

For the sun-dried tomato cheese, if your sun-dried tomatoes are very dry, soak them in hot water until softened before using.

  • 1 container (17.6 ounces) Greek yogurt

Place a coffee filter or paper towel–lined sieve over a bowl and spoon in the yogurt. Cover, and let drain overnight. Discard the whey.

Stir one of the three following flavors into the cheese.

ROASTED GARLIC: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wrap 1 unpeeled garlic head in foil, place on a baking sheet, and bake for 45 minutes or until the package gives to gentle pressure. Remove from the oven. When cool enough to handle, cut off the stalk end of the garlic bulb and squeeze the garlic pulp into a bowl. Mash with a fork. Whisk into the drained yogurt and season with salt to taste.

SUN-DRIED TOMATO & ROSEMARY CHEESE: Fold ⅓ cup soft sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped, and 1½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary into the drained yogurt.

BLACK PEPPER & FENNEL CHEESE: Fold 2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper and 1½ fennel seeds into the drained yogurt. Season with salt to taste.

MAKES 1½ CUPS

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Clockwise from top right:
Romesco Dip • page 149
Edamame Dip • page 150
Chili-Lime Tortilla Chips • page 144
Lemon-Carrot Hummus • page 150
Iced Hibiscus Tea • page 136

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Thai Summer Rolls • page 158

 

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Broiled Shrimp, Ceviche-Style • page 165

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Laquered Chicken Sate with Zucchini Salad • page 164

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Classic Cheese Fondue • page 155

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Lentil-Escarole Soup with Sausage • page 187 and Sage Focaccia • page 562

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Corn & Red Potato Chowder with Bacon • page 191

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Golden Beet & Fennel Salad with Beet Vinaigrette • page 389

TOASTED WALNUT–CHEDDAR SPREAD

If you don’t have a toaster oven, toast the walnuts in a small heavy skillet over medium heat.

  • ½ cup walnuts
  • 1 pound sharp Cheddar cheese, finely shredded
  • 1½ cups plain low-fat yogurt
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

In a toaster oven at 350°F, toast the walnuts until lightly toasted, 3 to 5 minutes. When cool enough to handle, finely chop.

In a small bowl, combine the walnuts, Cheddar, yogurt, and mustard. Chill thoroughly before serving.

MAKES 3 CUPS

SALMON MOUSSE

Salmon mousse is great spread on whole-grain crackers, of course, but try it on mini rice cakes.

  • 1 envelope unflavored gelatin
  • ½ cup cold water
  • 1 can (14.75 ounces) pink salmon, drained, skin removed
  • ¾ cup Greek yogurt or reduced-fat sour cream
  • ⅔ cup plain low-fat yogurt
  • 2 tablespoons drained prepared horseradish
  • 2 tablespoons grated onion
  • 2 ½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • ⅓ cup snipped chives

In a heatproof glass measuring cup, sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water. Let stand 5 minutes to soften. Set the measuring cup in a small saucepan of simmering water and heat until the gelatin has melted, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.

In a food processor, pulse the salmon until smooth. Add the yogurts, horseradish, onion, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt, and pulse until the mixture is blended. Add the gelatin mixture and chives, and pulse until combined.

Transfer to a 4-cup bowl or decorative mold, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours for the mousse to set. If you like, unmold onto a platter to serve.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

GRUYÈRE CANAPÉS

The French word canapé actually means “couch” (as in sofa), so the appetizer of the same name always has a little toast, or “couch,” with a topping on it.

  • 6 slices whole-grain bread, toasted
  • ¾ cup thick Béchamel Sauce 
  • ½ cup shredded Gruyère cheese
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • Cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Cut each piece of toast into 4 squares or triangles.

In a small bowl, stir together the Béchamel and Gruyère, and spread thickly on the toast pieces. Sprinkle the Parmesan and a dash of cayenne over each canapé.

Place on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.

MAKES 24 CANAPÉS

DOUBLE-BAKED SWEET POTATO SKINS

This is the type of recipe that can be easily doubled or tripled if you are feeding a crowd. Pure chili powders made from a single type of chili pepper (like chipotle or ancho) are available in most supermarkets. If you can’t find one, simply substitute a chili powder blend.

  • 3 sweet potatoes (8 ounces each), well scrubbed
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • ½ cup crumbled feta cheese (2 ounces)
  • ½ teaspoon chipotle or other chili powder
  • Lime wedges, for serving

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the sweet potatoes on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake for 1 hour, or until fork-tender but not mushy. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F.

When the sweet potatoes are cool enough to handle, halve lengthwise and scoop out most of the flesh, leaving a ¼-inch shell. Then halve them lengthwise again.

Drizzle olive oil over the flesh side of the potatoes. Bake, flesh-side down, for 20 minutes.

Turn flesh-side up and sprinkle with the feta and chipotle powder. Bake for 5 minutes, or until the skins are crisp and the cheese has melted. Serve with lime wedges.

MAKES 12 WEDGES

NUTTY TREATS

Bowls of plain nuts make good appetizers, but you can also up the ante with one of these recipes:

Seeded Almond Mix (page 614)

Curried Cashew Mix (page 614)

Pepper Nuts (page 615)

Mexican Mix (page 615)

Maple Pepitas (page 615)

Spicy Roasted Chickpeas (page 615)

MANCHEGO CORNMEAL GEMS

Smoked paprika, once a fairly esoteric spice, is now available in many supermarkets from national brand-name spice companies.

  • ½ cup yellow cornmeal
  • ½ cup flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • ½ cup diced Manchego cheese
  • ¼ cup frozen corn kernels, thawed
  • 1 tablespoon chopped red bell pepper
  • 1 tablespoon chopped scallion
  • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk
  • 1 large egg
  • Pinch of smoked paprika

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heavily grease a baking sheet.

In a small bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, and baking powder, and blend well. With a pastry blender or two knives scissor fashion, cut the butter into the cornmeal mixture until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Toss the Manchego, corn, chopped pepper, and scallion in the flour mixture until coated and well distributed.

In a separate bowl, mix together the buttermilk, egg, and paprika until blended. Quickly stir into the flour mixture. Drop the batter by rounded tablespoons onto the baking sheet, placing several inches apart. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until browned.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

CLASSIC CHEESE FONDUE

The traditional dunk of choice for cheese fondue is bread cubes, but try it with vegetables or fruits: apple wedges, pear wedges, bell pepper strips, broccoli florets.

  • 2 cups shredded Gruyère cheese (8 ounces)
  • 2 cups shredded Emmentaler cheese (8 ounces)
  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1 clove garlic, halved
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 3 ounces cream cheese, cut into chunks

In a medium bowl, toss the Gruyère and Emmentaler with the cornstarch until coated.

Rub the garlic halves all around the inside of the top of a double boiler, then discard.

Add the wine to the double boiler and place over simmering water. Gradually add the cheese and cornstarch mixture, stirring until the cheeses are melted. Swirl the cream cheese into the mixture. Remove from the heat. Keep warm in a fondue pot or other container that can sit over a food warmer.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

GARLIC-MARINATED MUSHROOMS TOPPED WITH AVOCADO

Keep a container in your freezer that you can use for vegetable trimmings, like the mushroom stems below. You can throw in carrot peelings, onion skins, asparagus trimmings, tomato cores. Then when the container is full, use the trimmings to perk up a chicken broth, or use them as the basis for a homemade vegetable broth.

  • 1 pound mushrooms
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • ¼ cup white wine vinegar
  • 12 sprigs parsley, minced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • 2 Hass avocados
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 bunch watercress
  • Lemon wedges, for garnish

Stem the mushrooms. In a large bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, parsley, garlic, and pepper, and mix well. Add the mushroom caps and turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Halve the avocados and scoop the flesh into a medium bowl. With a fork or potato masher, mash the avocados with the lemon juice and salt. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice or salt if needed.

Remove the mushroom caps from the marinade. (Don’t discard the marinade; it will make a perfectly nice salad dressing.) Fill each cap with avocado puree.

Line a serving platter with the watercress and top with the mushrooms. Garnish with the lemon wedges.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

ROASTED RED PEPPER ROLLS

You can make the roasted pepper strips well in advance. This will also give them more time to take on some pickle-y flavor from the vinegar.

  • 2 large red bell peppers, cut lengthwise into flat panels
  • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • ½ pound mushrooms, minced
  • 1 large clove garlic
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 tablespoons cream cheese, at room temperature

Preheat the broiler. Broil the pepper pieces, skin side up, 4 inches from the heat for 12 minutes, or until the skin is charred. Remove from the broiler, turn the pieces skin-side down and let cool for 10 minutes. Peel, cut lengthwise into 2 or 3 strips each, and place in a shallow bowl. Sprinkle with the vinegar and set aside.

In a medium skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and Worcestershire sauce, and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mushroom liquid has evaporated and the mixture is very dry. Remove from the heat and let cool.

In a small bowl, stir the cream cheese until softened. Stir in the mushroom mixture. Spread each peeled pepper strip with a thin layer of mushroom paste and roll, jelly-roll fashion. Secure with toothpicks. Serve at room temperature.

MAKES 16 TO 24 PIECES

YELLOW PEPPER ROLLS WITH GOAT CHEESE: Use yellow bell peppers instead of red, and soft goat cheese instead of cream cheese.

EASY CANAPÉS

The easiest canapé of all is a cracker topped with cream cheese, soft goat cheese, or a slice of mild cheese, then crowned with a dab of sweet-tart relish or chutney. Try one of these:

Apricot Chutney (page 610)

Corn Relish (page 611)

Fresh Cranberry Relish (page 611)

Stone-Fruit Chutney (page 610)

Cucumber Relish (page 612)

Sweet Onion-Cauliflower Relish (page 612)

Cranberry-Cherry Chutney (page 610)

Spicy Cranberry-Pineapple Relish (page 611)

Roasted Onion Relish (page 612)

GRILLED EGGPLANT & MOZZARELLA ROLLS

An elegant summer appetizer, this simple dish is easy to make ahead and pull out of the fridge to broil at the last minute.

  • 2 small eggplants (½ pound each) Coarse salt 
  • 8 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese
  • 4 ounces soft goat cheese, at room temperature
  • 2 tablespoons snipped chives Pepper
  • 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
  • 25 large fresh basil leaves plus ½ cup loosely packed, coarsely chopped basil

Cut the eggplants lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle the slices on both sides with salt, and let them drain in a colander for 15 minutes to release excess moisture. Rinse the eggplant slices and pat dry with paper towels.

Preheat the grill or broiler to medium.

In a bowl, stir together the mozzarella, goat cheese, 1 tablespoon of the chives, and salt to taste. Set aside.

Brush both sides of the eggplant slices lightly with oil. Grill or broil the eggplant for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden and seared. Season with salt and pepper, turn over, brush with more oil, and grill or broil for 3 to 4 minutes longer, or until the eggplant just begins to soften. Remove and let sit 10 minutes. (Leave the broiler on; or if you used a grill, preheat the broiler now.)

Transfer the eggplant to a work surface. Arrange whole basil leaves in a slightly overlapping pattern across one slice of eggplant. Place a heaping tablespoon of the cheese mixture at the narrow end of the slice. Roll up cigar fashion and secure with a toothpick. Repeat with the remaining basil, filling, and eggplant slices.

Arrange the rolls, seam-side down, in a lightly oiled 9 × 13-inch glass baking dish. Broil 4 to 6 inches from the heat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese is just melted and bubbling.

In a blender or food processor, combine the chopped basil, remaining 1 tablespoon chives, and 1 cup oil. Season with salt to taste. Transfer the cooked eggplant rolls to a platter or serving plates, and drizzle with the basil oil.

MAKES 16 SERVINGS

EGGS STUFFED WITH TOFU GUACAMOLE

For an even smoother mixture, puree the tofu-egg yolk mixture in a mini food processor, but leave the avocado with some texture.

  • ½ cup (4 ounces) soft silken tofu
  • 12 hard-cooked large eggs, halved lengthwise and yolks removed
  • 3 scallions, finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Dash of hot pepper sauce
  • 1 Hass avocado
  • Lemon juice
  • Paprika, for garnish

In a small bowl, combine the tofu, egg yolks, scallions, salt, and hot sauce, and mash with a fork.

Halve the avocado and scoop the flesh into a small bowl. With a fork or potato masher, mash the avocado with lemon juice to taste. Add the egg-yolk mixture and stir until thoroughly blended.

Mound the mixture into the egg white halves. Garnish with a sprinkling of paprika.

MAKES 24 PIECES

GREEK STUFFED EGGS

If you have easy access to fresh oregano and mint, use them here in place of dried: about ½ teaspoon of each.

  • 6 hard-cooked large eggs, halved lengthwise and yolks removed
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • ⅔ cup minced mushrooms
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • ¼ teaspoon oregano
  • ¼ teaspoon mint
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • ½ cup crumbled feta cheese

Pass the egg yolks through a sieve into a small bowl.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and shallots, and cook until tender. Stir in the oregano and mint. Cool slightly, then stir into the sieved egg yolks. Add the pepper and feta and stir to blend well.

Mound the mixture into the egg white halves. Serve the eggs chilled or at room temperature.

MAKES 12 PIECES

THAI SUMMER ROLLS

Spring roll wrappers, made from rice flour, have an extremely delicate texture. They can be a little hard to work with at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it.

PEANUT SAUCE

SUMMER ROLLS

  • 2 ounces thin rice or cellophane noodles
  • 1 small red bell pepper, slivered
  • 1 medium carrot, cut into thin matchsticks
  • ⅓ cup fresh basil leaves, torn into bite-size pieces
  • ¼ cup cilantro leaves
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
  • 8 round spring roll wrappers (6 inches)

To make the peanut sauce: In a food processor, combine the peanut butter, cilantro, water, honey, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, and cayenne. Process until smooth. Set aside.

To make the rolls: Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain, rinse under cold water, and drain again. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add the bell pepper, carrot, basil, cilantro, vinegar, mustard, and sesame oil, and toss to combine.

One at a time, submerge the spring roll wrappers in tepid water until tender, about 30 seconds. Lay flat on a clean kitchen cloth. Lay a mound of noodle mixture down the center, leaving a 1-inch border all around. Fold 2 sides in over the mound then roll up from the bottom. Repeat with the remaining wrappers. Serve the rolls with the peanut sauce.

MAKES 8 SUMMER ROLLS

POT STICKERS WITH SESAME GINGER SAUCE

If you are looking to add more whole grains to your diet, you might want to make Whole Wheat Wonton Wrappers

  • 1 pound lean ground pork, lamb, or beef
  • 1 cup finely chopped bok choy
  • 1 small onion, minced
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 36 wonton wrappers Oil, for frying
  • Oil, for frying
  • Sesame Ginger Sauce

In a large bowl, combine the ground meat, bok choy, onion, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, and lemon juice, and blend well.

Place a tablespoon of the filling in the center of each wonton wrapper. Moisten the edges and bring all the sides up into the center and pinch the edges of the wrapper together, pinching firmly together to seal.

In large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a rapid boil in a large pot. Add a few of the dumplings, one at a time. When they rise to the surface, they are cooked. With a slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings to a tray covered with paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining dumplings.

In a large skillet or wok, heat a thin skin of oil. Add the dumplings in batches and cook until lightly browned on the bottom. Serve with the Sesame Ginger Sauce.

MAKES 36 POT STICKERS

SESAME GINGER SAUCE

This is good as a dipping sauce but can also be poured over poached or baked fish.

  • 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil
  • 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon water
  • ½ cup chopped scallions

In a small saucepan, combine the sesame oil, ginger, soy sauce, lemon juice, water, and scallions. Bring to a boil. Serve hot.

MAKES ½ CUP

WHOLE WHEAT WONTON WRAPPERS

  • 1½ cups whole wheat flour
  • 2¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup cold water
  • 2 large eggs Cornstarch (optional)

In a large bowl, combine the flours. In a separate bowl, beat the water and eggs together. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture, and pour the egg mixture into it. Mix together until a soft ball of dough is formed. Knead on a floured surface until the dough is satiny and smooth, 5 to 10 minutes. Divide into 4 or more portions. On a floured surface, roll out each portion of dough 1⁄16 inch thick. Cut the dough into 3-inch squares. If making ahead for use later, dust each piece with cornstarch, stack, and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Freeze or refrigerate. Return to room temperature before using

PHYLLO TARTLETS WITH SMOKED SALMON

This recipe can be easily doubled or tripled for a large crowd. If you prefer, you can prepare the cream cheese mixture by simply pulsing it in a food processor.

  • 1 package (15) mini whole wheat phyllo shells
  • 3 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest
  • 2 teaspoons lemon juice
  • ¼ teaspoon pepper
  • 1 ounce smoked salmon, finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons nonpareil capers, rinsed
  • 1 tablespoon snipped chives, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the phyllo shells on a baking sheet and bake for 3 to 5 minutes, or until crisp. Cool to room temperature.

With a fork, mash the cream cheese with the lemon zest, lemon juice, and pepper. Fold in the smoked salmon and capers. Spoon into the shells and top with the chives.

MAKES 15 TARTLETS

SALMON & SMOKED GOAT CHEESE TURNOVERS

If you can’t find smoked goat cheese, use regular goat cheese and smoked Gouda. To make the bread crumbs, finely chop the half slice of bread with a knife or pulse in a mini food processor.

  • Multi-Grain Pie Dough (Double Crust),
  • 2 cans (6 ounces each) salmon, drained and flaked
  • ¼ cup whole-grain bread crumbs (½ slice)
  • ¼ cup minced green bell pepper
  • 1 tablespoon minced onion
  • ⅛ teaspoon black pepper
  • ½ cup soft smoked goat cheese (4 ounces)
  • ½ cup shredded Gouda cheese (4 ounces)
  • 1 large egg, beaten

On a floured surface, roll out the pastry about ⅛ inch thick and cut into about fourteen 4-inch squares.

In a medium bowl, combine the salmon, bread crumbs, bell pepper, onion, and black pepper. In a small bowl, blend the goat cheese and Gouda.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place about 1 tablespoon of the salmon mixture in the center of each pastry square. Top with 1 tablespoon of the cheese mixture. Fold the pastry squares in half to form triangles, sealing the edges with beaten egg. Make a small slit in the top of each turnover and brush with egg.

Place on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden.

MAKES 14 TURNOVERS

SPICED EDAMAME

Edamame are green soybeans, available in the freezer compartment of most supermarkets. They are sold both shelled and in the pod. Make sure you get the type still in the pod. Once steamed and tossed with a salt-spice mixture, they are served in the pod. Each diner bites a pod to release the rich-tasting beans within.

  • 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
  • ¾ teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns or ½ teaspoon ancho chili powder, Chinese five-spice powder, or dried lavender
  • 1 bag (1 pound) frozen edamame in the pod

In a small skillet, combine the sea salt and your choice of seasoning. Toast over low heat until fragrant. Set aside.

In a steamer, cook the edamame for 4 or 5 minutes. Remove from the steamer, transfer to a bowl, and toss with the salt-spice mixture while the edamame are still hot.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

CHERRY TOMATOE S WITH WATERME LON

This surprisingly delicious combination can be served chilled or at room temperature. Serve the tomatoes with bread sticks wrapped in thin slices of prosciutto.

  • ½ pint yellow cherry tomatoes
  • ½ pint red cherry or grape tomatoes
  • 1 small seedless watermelon (red or yellow)
  • ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
  • ¼ teaspoon white peppercorns
  • Coarse salt
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon slivered fresh mint leaves

Cut half of the tomatoes in half and place in a large bowl along with the remaining whole tomatoes.

Cut the watermelon into cubes (or use a melon baller) and add to the bowl. (You should have about 4 cups melon.)

With a mortar and pestle, crush the coriander, peppercorns, and a large pinch of salt until coarsely ground (or place in a kitchen towel and pound with a mallet). Sprinkle the mixture over the tomatoes and melon.

Add the oil and mint, and gently toss to coat.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

SPINACH-TOFU PUFFS

These balls may be prepared in advance and then frozen (unbaked). When ready to use, thaw for 10 to 15 minutes and then bake as directed.

  • 1 package (10 ounces) frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
  • 1½ cups whole-grain cracker crumbs or dried bread crumbs
  • 1 pound firm tofu, mashed
  • ½ cup finely chopped Vidalia onion
  • 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
  • ⅓ cup butter, melted
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 teaspoon minced garlic
  • ½ teaspoonsalt
  • ½ teaspoon pepper
  • ¼ teaspoon thyme

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a baking sheet.

In a large bowl, combine the spinach, cracker crumbs, tofu, onion, eggs, butter, Parmesan, garlic, salt, pepper, and thyme, and mix well. Shape into 1-inch balls and place on the baking sheet. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until puffed and cooked through.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

LACQUERED CHICKEN SATE WITH ZUCCHINI SALAD

Use a thick teriyaki sauce or Korean barbecue sauce. Thinly sliced young zucchini is so sweet, it needs no cooking. Soak the wooden skewers in water for at least 30 minutes before threading the chicken.

  • ¼ cup teriyaki sauce
  • 1¼ pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut lengthwise into thin strips
  • 4 zucchini (1½ pounds total)
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil Sea salt and pepper
  • 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, lightly toasted

Place the teriyaki sauce in a large glass dish or bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes, or overnight if desired.

Trim off the ends of the zucchini. With a swivel-head vegetable peeler or large knife, slice the zucchini lengthwise as thinly as possible. Toss with the lemon juice and sesame oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange on a platter.

Preheat the grill to medium-high. Thread the chicken onto wooden skewers. Grill, covered, for 3 minutes per side, until the chicken is seared and just cooked through. Transfer to the platter with the zucchini, sprinkle with the sesame seeds, and serve hot.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

COCONUT FRIED SHRIMP

Leave the tails on the shrimp so they are easier to pick up with your fingers.

  • ½ cup mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons honey mustard
  • ½ cup cornstarch
  • 1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
  • 2 large egg whites
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 16 large shrimp (1 pound), peeled and deveined, tails left on
  • Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
  • Lemon and/or lime wedges, for serving

In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise and honey mustard. Refrigerate until serving time.

Measure ¼ cup of the cornstarch into a shallow bowl or pie plate. Place the coconut in another shallow bowl or pie plate.

In a small bowl, beat together the remaining ¼ cup cornstarch, egg whites, and salt to make a smooth batter.

Dredge the shrimp in the dry cornstarch, shaking and tapping off the excess. Holding by their tails, dip the shrimp, one at a time, in the egg-white batter and then in the coconut to coat evenly. Place in a single layer on a baking sheet.

In a deep-fryer or small Dutch oven, heat at least 2 inches of oil to 300°F. Add the shrimp, 4 at a time, and cook until golden brown and opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Serve with lemon or lime wedges and the honey-mustard sauce.

MAKES 16 PIECES

MAKING CHICKEN DRUMETTES

Take a chicken wing and cut off and discard the wing tip. Then separate the remaining wing at the “elbow” joint. The smaller half will have 2 bones, the larger only 1. Start with the larger one, scraping the meat away from the bone and toward one end. Turn the meat inside out to form a miniature drumstick. Repeat with the piece with 2 bones in it and when you’ve exposed the bones, twist off and discard the smaller of the two bones.

JERK CHICKEN DRUMETTES

When handling any type of chili peppers, especially ones as incendiary as Scotch bonnets, it is important that you wear gloves and wash your hands immediately after using. This dish is extremely flavorful and spicy.

  • ¼ cup lime juice
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
  • 4 scallions, sliced
  • 2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  • 1 small to medium Scotch bonnet chili pepper, ribs and seeds removed
  • 1½ teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons ground allspice
  • 1¾ teaspoons thyme
  • ¾ teaspoon black pepper
  • ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
  • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 pounds drumettes (about 16), store-bought or homemade (above)

In a blender, combine the lime juice, oil, soy sauce, vinegar, scallions, garlic, Scotch bonnet chili, sugar, allspice, thyme, black pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and puree until smooth.

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the chicken and turn to coat. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Lift the chicken from the marinade and place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake until richly brown and cooked through, about 30 minutes.

MAKES 16 PIECES

CRISPY CHICKEN DRUMETTES

You can buy already prepared drumettes, or you can make them yourself. See “Making Chicken Drumettes” (opposite).

  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ teaspoon coarse salt
  • 4 teaspoons black pepper
  • 3 pounds chicken drumettes (about 24), store-bought or homemade (opposite)
  • 3 cups corn flakes, preferably organic
  • ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 4 teaspoons cayenne pepper
  • ¼ cup (½ stick) butter, melted

In a large, shallow dish, stir together the buttermilk, oil, garlic, salt, and black pepper. Add the chicken and turn to coat. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 4 hours, or overnight.

Arrange a rack on top of a large baking sheet. Place the corn flakes in a blender and grind to make fine crumbs. In a large bowl, combine the crumbs, Parmesan, and cayenne.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and allow the excess to drip off. Dredge each piece in the crumb mixture and transfer to the rack. Let rest 15 minutes. (The chicken may be prepared to this point earlier in the day and refrigerated until ready to cook.)

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Arrange the chicken in a single layer on a lightly greased baking sheet. Drizzle generously with the butter and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until crisp, golden, and cooked through. Serve hot or at room temperature.

MAKES 24 PIECES

ANTIPASTO PLATE

Do as the Italians do, and put out a plate with a variety of complementary textures and flavors. Good possibilities include thinly sliced meats, mild cheese, olives, and a selection of pickled things. Try one of these recipes to add to your antipasto:

Sweet-Hot Carrot Chips (page 660)

Roasted Red Peppers (page 660)

Marinated Roasted Red Peppers (page 660)

Pickled Green Peppers (page 660)

Spicy Pickled Peppers (page 660)

Pickled Butter Bean Medley (page 661)

Red-Pickled Eggs (page 661)

Bread & Butter Pickles (page 662)

Pickled Carrot & Mango Sticks (page 661)