In addition to cakes, cookies, and pies, desserts comprise a huge range of sweet ways to end a meal, from elegant soufflés to humble fruit crisps. This chapter is filled with crisps, cobblers, fools, buckles, compotes, custards, mousses, sorbet—and that most American of desserts, ice cream.
The most satisfying desserts are often the simplest. For example, unadorned fresh fruit served with cheese is a popular European way to end a meal. Fruit can also be simply poached, baked, sautéed, or broiled. And as a health bonus, any kind of cooking intensifies the natural sugar in fruits, lessening the need for added sweetener.
Simmering (poaching): Fruit can be simply poached in a lightly sweetened and flavored liquid. The poaching liquid can be water, juice, or wine, sweetened to taste or left as is. Seasonings such as fresh mint, grated orange or lemon zest, a stick of cinnamon, or whole cloves can be added. Bring the syrup mixture to a boil and add the fruit of your choice. Cover the pan and return a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the fruit is barely tender. Stir only enough to keep the fruit from sticking to the pan. Some recipes will have you cool the fruit in the poaching liquid (in which case the fruit should be slightly underdone before you turn off the heat); others will have you drain the fruit but save the poaching liquid for reducing as a syrup to be served over the fruit.
Sauce: A fruit sauce is an extraordinarily simple fruit dessert. Use it as an ice cream topping or as a drizzle over pound cake. Make fruit sauce by simmering chopped or whole small fruits in a small amount of water or juice until fully tender. Sweeteners should be added after rather than before simmering, because they make the fruit less able to absorb moisture and become fully tender. Larger fruits such as apples and peaches should be pureed in a food processor or put through a strainer or food mill. Berries and pitted cherries can be left intact for a chunky sauce or pureed for a smooth one. For a thin sauce, include the cooking liquid when you puree the fruit. Or, if the sauce is thinner than desired, cornstarch or arrowroot (which makes an especially translucent sauce) can be used to thicken it.
Baking: Baking is an attractive, simple way to prepare fresh apples, apricots, bananas, peaches, nectarines, pineapple, pears, and plums. Heat the oven to 400°F. Pit or core the fruit and arrange the pieces in a baking dish. Pour ½ to 1 cup water mixed with 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 2 tablespoons sweetener into the dish. Bake, uncovered, until the fruit is softened, 20 to 60 minutes.
Broiling: Place sliced fruits—apples, bananas, peaches, pears, or pineapple—on the broiler rack 4 to 6 inches from the heat. Broil on one side; then turn over and broil until warm and slightly browned. Watch closely; under the intense heat fruits can scorch in a matter of seconds.
Sautéing: Hot, bubbly, and lightly browned in sweet butter, sautéed fruits are a great dessert. Top with ice cream or a dollop of Greek yogurt. (They also make a tasty accompaniment to poultry, meat, and fish.) Moderately thick slices of fruit work best. Sauté the fruit in melted butter until hot and just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle the slices with a sweetener and/or cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, or allspice.
Tempering is a way to prevent cold eggs from curdling when they are blended with a hot mixture. To temper eggs, add a couple of tablespoons of the hot mixture to the eggs to warm them up. This decreases the temperature difference between the two. Then slowly add the warmed eggs to the hot liquid, stirring constantly to evenly distribute the eggs.
Many of the most delightful dishes—Bavarians, ice cream, custard pies, puddings—are based on creamy, satiny custards. Either soft or baked, true custards gain their tender firmness from eggs that are slowly cooked with milk, a sweetener, and a flavoring. No starchy thickener is ever used.
Soft custards (stirred custards): These sauces have the consistency of thick, heavy cream and can curdle without warning if you cook them over high heat or too long. Although you can rescue a curdled custard by beating it vigorously and then straining, the taste of most “saved” custards is slightly inferior. To prevent curdling, use a double boiler over simmering water and stir constantly to distribute the heat evenly. Cook until the sauce forms a thick coating on a spoon. Add fruits after cooking is complete, since acids also curdle a cooking custard. When it is done, quickly cool the custard over cold water and continue stirring to release trapped steam—the cause of a watery custard.
Baked custards: Baked custards are firm yet tender because they’re cooked without stirring. Unlike soft custards they rarely curdle, but they often become weepy from too much heat. To avoid overcooking the outside before the center is set, bake the custards in a water bath (bain marie): Place filled custard cups in a larger pan, then add hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. When you think the custard is done, insert a knife halfway between the edge and the center of the custard. If the blade comes out clean, remove the custard from the oven and put it on a wire rack to cool. (There is so much heat in a custard that it will continue cooking; by the time it cools, the center will set.) If the center is firm when tested, cool the custard swiftly by setting the custard cups in an inch of cold water.
To unmold a baked custard, first let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Then run a knife around the inside edge of the mold. Hold an inverted dish over the mold, then turn both over, and lift away the mold.
Other puddings: In addition to custards, which are egg-thickened, there are pudding desserts that are thickened by other ingredients such as gelatin, flour, arrowroot, tapioca, and cornstarch. There are also puddings based on bread or whole grains such as rice, wheat, and cornmeal that need no added thickening agent. Like custards, puddings are often prepared slowly on the stovetop and stirred in order to prevent scorching and lumping. Certain puddings, such as rice pudding or bread pudding, are baked in the oven, and steamed puddings (see “Steamed Puddings,” below) are steamed on the stovetop in a covered pan of boiling water.
Soufflés: The lightest of fancy desserts, soufflés have an airiness that is remarkable but fleeting. They are so delicate that they must be served almost immediately, or their fragile structure will begin to give way and collapse. The base of a soufflé may be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator in a well-covered container. When you are ready to bake the soufflé for serving, bring the mixture to room temperature before adding the beaten egg whites.
Ice cream and other frozen delights are universal favorites. If you have the time, it is easy and fun to make them at home, either in an electric ice cream maker, an old-style hand-crank freezer (see “Old-Fashioned Hand-Cranked Ice Cream,” opposite), or in a metal baking pan (see “Still-Freezing Desserts,” page 494).
Steamed pudding, an age-old preparation, is still very popular during winter holidays. This dessert is most often very dense and filling, but it may be made light and delicate. The long cooking in humid heat keeps the pudding moist and allows the flavors to mellow and blend together.
There are two basic types of molds used to make steamed pudding:
If you do not have a proper pudding mold, any heatproof bowl can be used. A coffee can also works fine.
Butter the inside of the mold or container lightly, and fill it only about two-thirds full to allow for rising and expansion. If using parchment paper or foil to cover the mold, butter the inside of that as well. Use a pot that is at least 4 inches larger than your pudding mold so you will have about 2 inches of space on each side.
Place a rack or steaming basket in the pot, and then place the mold on the rack. Pour boiling water into the pot until it comes halfway up the sides of the mold. Cover the pot and adjust the heat so that the water remains at the boiling point throughout the steaming period. Steam for the length of time suggested in the recipe.
The freezing process is what dictates the consistency of the final product. Ice cream, sorbet, or sherbet, properly frozen and slowly churned, will be smooth and not grainy. During the freezing process the water in the mixture begins to form ice crystals. Stirring this mixture as it freezes is what prevents those crystals from becoming too large and keeps the mixture pleasantly smooth. The stirring also aerates, therefore lightens, the mixture.
Even though electric ice cream machines abound, there’s nothing like making hand-cranked ice cream on the back porch on a hot summer day. Here’s how to make hand-churned ice cream.
Chill the ice-cream mixture an hour or two in the refrigerator (this reduces the processing time). Pour it into the freezer canister, filling it no more than two-thirds full to allow for expansion. Cover securely.
Fill the tub one-third full with crushed ice cubes, then layer more ice and rock salt (or regular household salt) to a level slightly above the level of the mixture in the canister.
Process (work the churn) until the ice cream is smooth and thick.
Remove the dasher (churning blade) from the canister and pack the ice cream down solidly with a wooden spoon.
The ice cream is now ready to be “hardened.” This can be done by repacking the tub of the freezer, surrounding the canister with more ice and salt, and then covering the whole machine with burlap or newspapers. Or you can remove the container from the tub, cover it, and place it in the freezer to harden. Whatever system you use, the finished ice cream should be allowed to mellow and harden for 2 to 3 hours before serving.
For some of the water- or milk-based frozen desserts, such as ices and granitas, a grainy texture is desirable. This means they can be made with the still-freeze method with only occasional blending to break down the ice crystals.
Here’s a quick guide to the family of frozen desserts:
Frozen yogurt is a popular variation on ice milk or sherbet, in which most or all of the milk is replaced by yogurt, producing a tangy flavor. Frozen yogurts are most often flavored with fruits, but they readily accept the same flavorings as ice cream.
Frozen soy desserts are somewhat lighter than frozen dairy desserts. They can be made by using most of the same methods used in making other frozen desserts. For a richer dessert, some cream or milk may be substituted for the soymilk called for in a recipe. Conversely, in richer recipes soymilk can substitute for some of the milk or cream.
Gelato is rich Italian ice cream normally made with no eggs, though some recipes do call for a custard base.
Granitas are Italian ices with a snow-like texture.
Ice cream can be made two different ways—custard-based (or French) ice cream made with whole eggs or egg yolks, and plain, which is made with cream but no eggs.
Ice milk can be made from the same recipes as plain (no-egg) ice cream, substituting milk for the cream. Whole milk, 2%, 1%, or skim milk can be used. The texture and taste of the product will be different, but the result is quite satisfactory.
Ices contain neither eggs nor milk; they are made with pure fruit juice, perhaps some sweetener, and ice, all blended together, then frozen in an ice cream maker or baking pan. To attain the same smooth texture in the still-freeze method as in an ice cream freezer, the ice must be beaten well and often during the freezing process. Starting 1 hour after the mixture has been put into the freezer, when the ice is set around the sides but still mushy in the center, the beating should take place every half hour until the ice is frozen solid.
Semifreddo is an Italian dessert made with ice cream ingredients but not churned in an ice cream maker. It’s placed in a freezer until frozen, and then allowed to soften up enough to serve. It’s often made in the shape of a loaf and served in slices.
Sherbet is made from light fruit syrup and milk. It is fine-textured and often has gelatin or egg white added to make it smoother. The sherbets of yesteryear were often seasoned with liqueur or sweet wine.
Sorbet has the fine texture of a sherbet but is made with only thick fruit puree and a sweetener. It has no other thickeners and no milk.
The honey gets to shine in this dessert, so if you have a honey with an interesting flavor, this would be a good time to use it.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
With an apple corer, core the apples through the stem end, stopping ½ inch from the bottom. In a small bowl, combine the walnuts and raisins. Fill the apple cavities with the mixture and place in a baking dish.
In a small saucepan, combine the water, honey, and cinnamon. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Discard the cinnamon. Pour the syrup over the apples.
Bake, uncovered, basting occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until the apples are tender. Let cool to room temperature before serving.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
You can substitute almost any fruit—peaches, nectarines, raspberries—in this versatile cobbler. Serve it topped with sweetened Greek yogurt or ice cream.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Place the butter in a 10-inch oval baking dish and put it in the oven to melt.
In a medium bowl, toss the apples and berries with ½ cup of the sugar.
Remove the dish from the oven and pour the melted butter into another medium bowl. Stir in the remaining 1 cup sugar, the milk, flour, flax meal, baking powder, and salt.
Pour the batter back into the baking dish. Place the fruit on top, but do not stir (the batter will rise as the cobbler bakes). Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top of the crust is golden brown and the cobbler is thick and bubbling. (If necessary, run the cobbler under the broiler to brown the crust.) Serve warm.
MAKES 10 SERVINGS
This hot banana dessert brings citrus and cinnamon into the picture for an appetizing contrast.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large shallow baking dish and put in the oven to melt the butter.
Take the baking dish out and turn the banana halves in the butter to coat well. Arrange in a single layer.
Sprinkle with the orange zest, orange juice, lime juice, honey, and cinnamon. Dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Bake for 15 minutes, or until bubbling hot.
Serve hot, topped with the crème fraîche.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Blackberry seeds can be quite large, so don’t skip the straining step.
In a food processor, puree the blackberries. Press the puree through a sieve into a bowl to remove the seeds. Stir in the agave nectar and yogurt.
In a medium bowl, whip the chilled evaporated whole milk until stiff peaks form. Fold the blackberry mixture into the whipped milk.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
A buckle, one of those old-fashioned baked desserts with colorful names like slump and grunt, is usually fruit baked in a cake-like batter with a crumb topping.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8 × 8-inch baking dish.
To make the filling: In a medium bowl, cream together the butter, honey, and egg. Add the flour, buttermilk, and baking soda. Mix well. Spread in the prepared baking dish and cover with the blueberries.
To make the topping: In a small bowl, combine the flour, butter, honey, cinnamon, and salt until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
Spread the topping over the blueberries. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the filling is set and the topping is nicely browned.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Clafouti, a home-style dessert from the Limousin region of France, is easy to prepare. Traditionally, it is served at room temperature or cold. But it looks so tempting while still hot and puffy, we suggest serving it right from the oven.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Butter 6 custard cups. Combine the bread crumbs and cardamom, and dust the inside of each cup with this mixture. Divide the cherries evenly among the cups and place on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs and flour, and mix well. Add the milk and beat for 3 minutes. Add the honey and salt, and beat for 2 minutes.
Pour the batter into the custard cups. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the tops are lightly browned and puffy. Serve hot with crème fraîche.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
APRICOT CLAFOUTIS: Use cinnamon instead of cardamom and sliced fresh apricots instead of cherries. Sprinkle the apricots with a total of 1 tablespoon sugar before topping with the batter.
Kisel is a light, tart fruit puree served chilled with sour cream or heavy cream. It has long been popular in northern Europe, where it is commonly prepared with lingonberries, cousin of the cranberry.
In a 2-quart heavy-bottomed pot, combine the cranberries and water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer, and cook until the berries are tender and the skins break, 10 to 15 minutes.
Rub the mixture through a fine strainer or put through a food mill. Return the puree to the pot, stir in ½ cup of honey, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and taste for sweetness. Add more honey if desired.
Stir the cornstarch mixture into the puree. Return the mixture to medium heat and stir until it comes to a boil and thickens slightly. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Pour the cooled puree into a serving bowl or individual dessert glasses. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled. Serve with a separate bowl of yogurt to use as a topping.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Paired with a dollop of ricotta and a stream of honey, fresh figs make a heavenly dessert. Ricotta cheese is most flavorful served at room temperature.
Quarter the figs and arrange on plates. Add 1 or 2 spoonfuls of ricotta to each fig and a generous drizzle of honey.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This sweet and warmly spiced dried fig compote is great served over scoops of frozen yogurt, or even served on its own as a snack.
In a small saucepan, combine the figs with the orange zest, star anise, and cardamom. Stir in the pomegranate juice and maple syrup. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the figs are soft and plump, about 1 hour.
Remove and discard the orange zest, star anise, and cardamom pods, and let the figs cool to room temperature or chill in the refrigerator.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Don’t top the kiwi with the yogurt until the last minute, because an enzyme in kiwi (called actinidin) will “eat” the protein in the yogurt.
In a medium bowl, combine ¼ cup of the sugar and the lime juice. Add the kiwi, tossing to combine. Cover and refrigerate until serving time.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, the yogurt, and zest. Serve the kiwi with its syrup, topped with the yogurt cream.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The peaches would also make a great addition to plain yogurt for breakfast. Or chop them up and serve as an accompaniment to roast pork.
In a large pot of boiling water, immerse the peaches for 30 to 45 seconds, then immediately plunge them into cold water. Slip off the skins.
Sprinkle the peeled peaches with the lemon juice to retard discoloration. In a heavy-bottomed pot large enough for all the peaches to fit in a single layer, combine the honey, water, cloves, and orange zest. Stir the mixture over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook the syrup for 5 minutes.
Add the peaches, bathe them with syrup, and cover the pot. Simmer for about 10 minutes, turning them occasionally. (They should still seem raw after poaching because they will continue to soften in the hot syrup.) Remove the pot from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Refrigerate to chill thoroughly.
When chilled, drain the syrup from the peaches and remove the cloves. Halve the peaches and place, cut-sides down, in a chilled shallow serving bowl. Spoon the syrup around the peaches. Serve with crème fraîche.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
A show-stopper dessert in about 40 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9-inch pie plate.
Arrange the peaches in the pie plate. Sprinkle with the lemon juice, tapioca, and almonds. (Save a few almonds to decorate the top.) Cover with foil and bake, for 20 minutes, or until softened.
Meanwhile, with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Add the maple syrup and continue beating for a few minutes.
Remove the peaches from the oven and completely cover with the beaten egg whites, pulling the whites into peaks with a spatula. Sprinkle the cinnamon and a few almonds on top. Return to the oven and bake for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Peaches would be a great substitute here, though they need to be peeled (nectarines do not). Just blanch them for 30 seconds or so in a pot of boiling water to loosen their skins so you can peel them before slicing.
*milled from white wheat grains
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Butter a 9-inch-round baking dish.
In a medium bowl, combine the nectarines, honey, egg, and tapioca. Spread evenly over the bottom of the baking dish.
In another medium bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, buttermilk, and butter to make a dough. On a well-floured surface, roll the dough to a ½-inch thickness. Prick the dough with a fork and place loosely over the peaches. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the filling is set and the topping is golden brown.
Serve warm, topped with the English Custard Sauce.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Nothing can beat the heady aroma of fruit baking with butter and maple syrup.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9 × 9-inch baking dish.
Arrange the pears in attractive rows in the dish.
In a small bowl, blend the maple syrup and vanilla, and drizzle over the pears. Top with the almonds and dot with the butter. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, basting frequently, until the pears are tender.
Serve hot or chilled, topped with the yogurt.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Raspberry juice can usually be found as a frozen concentrate. If you can only find a raspberry blend (usually with apple juice), that will work fine here.
With an apple corer, core the pears from the stem end to within ½ inch of the bottom. Cut a thin slice from the bottom of each pear so it will stand upright.
In a saucepan large enough for all the pears to stand up on the bottom, heat the raspberry juice and sugar over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape the seeds into the syrup, and then add the pod (if using extract, add it later).
Stand the pears up in the syrup, cover the pan, and simmer, basting occasionally, until the pears are barely tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Do not overcook. Remove from the heat (if using vanilla extract, stir it in now). Let the pears cool slightly in the syrup.
To serve, cut the pears in half and place 2 halves in each of 8 individual fruit dishes. Garnish with raspberries.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
POMEGRANATE-POACHED PEARS: Use pomegranate juice (or one of the pomegranate blends) instead of raspberry juice.
There’s nothing better on top of a fruit dessert than a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream. Here are some tips for making the perfect whipped cream:
Change it up: Flavorings can be added to whipped cream, such as small amounts of vanilla extract (and any sweetener you use, such as sugar, honey, or maple syrup), lemon zest, orange juice, orange zest, cocoa powder, and espresso powder. Add flavorings near the end of the whipping; otherwise, they will raise the temperature of the cream and interfere with the whipping.
Even though the California prune industry wanted to rechristen prunes as dried plums, it’s been a losing battle since most people still refer to them as prunes. And in the marketplace, although many labels include both terms—dried plums and prunes—there are some brands that simply say prunes.
In a medium bowl, soak the prunes in the apple juice until the juice is absorbed, several hours or overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8 x 8-inch baking pan.
In a small bowl, blend the oats, walnuts, salt, and allspice. With your fingers, work in 4 tablespoons of the butter. Place half of the mixture in the prepared baking pan. Pour the prune mixture on top, sprinkle with the remaining oat mixture, and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.
Bake for 35 minutes, or until the topping is golden and crisp.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
RED PLUM CRISP: Use dried red plums instead of prunes (which are dried Italian prune plums). Soak the plums in cranberry juice (sweetened) instead of apple juice.
When toasting the almonds, be sure to immediately tip them out of the skillet once they’re browned so they don’t keep cooking.
In a medium saucepan, combine the fruit spread, orange juice concentrate, water, and cinnamon, and stir until syrupy. Fold in the nectarines and plums, and mix gently until well coated.
Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring a simmer, stirring gently from time to time. Cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook, stirring gently several times, until the fruit is softened but not mushy, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside, covered.
In a small skillet, toast the sliced almonds over medium-high heat, tossing frequently, until lightly browned.
To serve, spoon the nectarines and syrup into dessert dishes or goblets. Sprinkle with the toasted almonds and top with the yogurt.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
When you finish cooking supper on the grill, place pouches of sweetened blackberries and plums on the low coals to stew until you’re ready for dessert. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and some cookie crumbs for the perfect end to a summer meal.
Cut two large sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place the plums in the center of one, and place the blackberries in the center of the other. Dot the fruit with the butter. Fold over and seal the edges, leaving a small tent above each to allow the fruit to steam.
Place the packets on a cool part of the grill and let warm about 30 minutes so that the berries cook slightly. Transfer the berries to a large bowl and lightly mash. Place scoops of ice cream in 6 bowls. Top with spoonfuls of berries and plums. Sprinkle with the gingersnap crumbs.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
The intense pink color and deep berry flavors in this pudding capture the essence of summer. It is best made when local berries are at their peak.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the bread on a baking sheet and toast, flipping once halfway through, for 12 minutes, or until lightly toasted, but still pliant.
In a large saucepan, combine the berries, sugar, lime juice, orange zest, cinnamon, and water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, until juicy, about 6 minutes. With a measuring cup, scoop out ½ cup of the juice and reserve for serving. Transfer the remaining berries and juice to a medium bowl and set aside to cool.
Line a 4-inch-deep 2-quart bowl (8 inch diameter) with enough slices of bread to make a seamless lining, trimming the bread as needed to make it fit. Pour 3 cups of the berry mixture into the mold and cover with a layer of bread. Pour the remaining berry mixture on top and cover with another seamless layer of bread. Cover with plastic wrap. Place a small plate directly on top of the pudding and place a large can on top to weight it down. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.
To serve, remove and discard the plastic wrap. Run a knife between the bread and the bowl. Invert the bowl over a serving plate and remove the bowl. Serve at once, with the reserved juice as a sauce.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
The combination of tart rhubarb, sweet raspberry all-fruit spread, and dried cherries under a crispy topping is definitely a winner.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
To make the filling: In a large bowl, combine the rhubarb, all-fruit spread, cherries, brown sugar, and allspice. Spoon into a 9 × 9-inch baking dish.
To make the topping: In a food processor, combine the oats, flour, butter, brown sugar, and salt, and pulse until well combined but still somewhat clumpy.
Dot the top of the fruit with the oat mixture. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the topping is crisp and brown and the fruit is bubbling. Serve warm or at room temperature.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
For a silkier and richer custard (but one higher in cholesterol, too), make this with 3 or 4 egg yolks instead of the 2 eggs.
In a small saucepan, scald the milk and let cool slightly.
In the top of a double boiler, lightly beat the eggs and maple syrup together.
Stir about ¼ cup of the hot milk into the eggs to warm them. Stirring constantly, gradually add the remaining hot milk to the warmed eggs. Place over hot (not boiling) water and stir constantly until thick and smooth, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Add the vanilla and lemon zest, then chill thoroughly.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Here is a simple version of the classic French crème caramel. Instead of caramelizing granlated sugar to flavor a custard, this dessert uses the deep flavors of a dark honey.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Divide the honey among four 6-ounce custard cups.
In a small saucepan, combine the milk and sugar, and heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, just until wisps of steam rise from the surface. Let cool slightly.
In a medium bowl, beat the whole eggs and egg yolks very lightly with a wire whisk. Stir about ¼ cup of the hot milk into the eggs to warm them. Stirring constantly, gradually add the remaining hot milk to the warmed eggs. Add the vanilla. (For a smoother, more elegant result, you should strain the custard at this point, but it’s up to you.)
Place the cups in a baking pan. Very gently ladle the custard into the cups on top of the honey. Place the baking pan on a pulled-out oven rack and pour in hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the custard cups. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the centers of the custards are set.
Remove the custard cups from the water bath and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours. To unmold, loosen the edges with a knife and invert the custards onto individual plates.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Though the English christened this dish trifle, it is anything but that—rich, flavorful, and fancy, it is a major attraction whenever it is served.
Select a glass serving bowl about 7 inches in diameter and 3 inches deep.
Cut enough ½-inch slices of cake to line the bottom of the dish and place them in the dish, trimming so there is even coverage. Cover with the raspberry sauce.
Cut the rest of the cake into cubes and scatter over the slices. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the almonds over the cubes.
Spread 1 cup of the fruit over the cake, then spoon all of the custard sauce over the fruit. Spread the whipped cream over the top. Decorate the whipped cream with the remaining 1 cup fruit and ¼ cup almonds.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
To thaw the raspberried, place them in a strainer set over the saucepan you will use to make the sauce.
In a medium saucepan, combine the raspberries and honey. Stir over low heat until just below boiling.
In a small bowl, blend the cornstarch and water. Add to the berry-honey mixture and cook slowly until thick and smooth, 5 to 7 minutes. Strain the sauce through a coarse sieve.
MAKES 2 CUPS
Called crème anglaise in French, this is a classic dessert sauce. Serve over bread puddings, steamed puddings, or cobblers.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks, honey, and vanilla until the mixture is light and thick.
In a medium saucepan, bring the light cream to a boil over medium-low heat. Whisking constantly, slowly pour the hot cream into the egg mixture. Return the egg mixture to the saucepan and stir over low heat until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
MAKES 2 CUPS
FLUFFY ENGLISH CUSTARD: Whip ½ cup heavy cream and fold it into the custard sauce.
A tiramisù is an Italian dessert in which ladyfingers are soaked in brewed espresso and then layered with sweetened mascarpone, an extremely rich fresh cheese. We’ve taken the same ideas but substituted Greek yogurt and cream cheese for a much healthier (but still satisfyingly rich) dessert.
In a wide shallow bowl, gradually whisk the coffee into the cocoa until smooth. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of the agave nectar.
With an electric mixer, beat the remaining ¼ cup agave nectar, the yogurt, cream cheese, heavy cream, and vanilla, until light and fluffy.
Spread 3 tablespoons of the yogurt mixture in the bottom of a 6-to 8-cup glass serving bowl.
Split the ladyfingers in half horizontally. One at a time, lightly dip one-third of the ladyfingers in the coffee mixture and arrange in the bottom of the dish. Spread with one-third of the remaining yogurt mixture. Repeat twice, finishing with a layer of the yogurt mixture. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.
At serving time, sprinkle the grated chocolate over the top.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
You can use unsweetened or sweetened coconut for this, but be sure to use shredded coconut, not flaked.
Cook the brown rice according to the package directions. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter 6 individual custard cups and place in a small roasting pan.
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, honey, and cornstarch, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the rice, chopped pecans, and vanilla.
In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks. Stirring constantly, gradually add the egg yolks to the milk mixture. Pour into the custard cups.
Place the roasting pan on a pulled-out oven rack and pour in hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake for 30 minutes, or until firm. Cool slightly, then unmold onto a buttered baking sheet. (Leave the oven on.)
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the coconut and ground pecans.
With an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Spread over the tops and sides of the custards. Sprinkle the coconut-pecan mixture over the egg whites.
Return to the oven and bake for 5 minutes, or until the coconut is lightly browned.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
INDIAN-SPICED COCONUT MOUNDS: Use brown basmati rice. Use cashews instead of pecans. Add ½ teaspoon ground cardamom to the custard.
This homey, traditional treat is a welcome reminder of the good old days, a change of pace from complicated desserts.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter 6 individual custard cups and place in a small roasting pan.
In a medium bowl, combine the eggs and brown sugar. Slowly add the milk, stirring constantly, until smooth. Stir in the rice, raisins, lemon zest, and vanilla.
Pour into the prepared cups and sprinkle nutmeg on top of each. Place the roasting pan on a pulledout oven rack and pour in hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a knife inserted in center of a custard comes out clean.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Thick, creamy, and oh so easy to make. If you like, add raisins or chopped dried apricots in addition to the chopped pistachios.
In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and rice to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the honey, cardamom, ginger, and salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the pudding is thick and creamy and the rice is very tender, about 1¼ hours.
Stir in the sugar and pistachios. Serve warm or chilled.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Pecan rice is a type of aromatic rice with a distinctly nutty flavor. If you can’t find it, basmati rice is a good substitute.
In a medium saucepan, cook the rice according to the package directions, using the ½ teaspoon salt.
Stir in the evaporated milk, sugar, and lemon zest. Cover and cook for 10 minutes longer.
Uncover and cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is very creamy and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.
Stir in the whole milk, vanilla, and cinnamon, and remove from the heat. Stir in the cranberries. Let cool to room temperature, then stir in the pecans. Refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
To really gild the lily, serve this creamy dessert with cold English Custard Sauce.
To make the rhubarb puree: In a deep heavy-bottomed pot, combine the rhubarb, honey, and lemon zest. Cover and cook for several minutes over low heat until the rhubarb is soft, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Puree the mixture in a blender or food processor. (You should have about 2 cups puree.) Chill thoroughly.
To make the tapioca cream: In a 1-quart heavy-bottomed pot, combine the milk, eggs, honey, and tapioca. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes. Then cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Blend in the vanilla. Chill thoroughly.
To make the candied lemon shreds: Using a vegetable peeler, peel strips of zest from the lemon. With a very sharp paring knife, cut the zest on the diagonal into long hair-thin shreds. In a small saucepan, bring the honey and water to a boil. Add the lemon shreds and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain in a strainer and set aside.
Combine the rhubarb puree and tapioca cream and fold together until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl and scatter the lemon shreds on top. Chill until serving time.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
A hint of cinnamon and vanilla extract give this its Mexican flair.
Place the tapioca in a bowl and cover with cold water. Soak overnight in the refrigerator. Drain.
In a medium saucepan, combine the tapioca, 2 cups of the milk, and the salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes.
Stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla and almond extracts, stirring until the sugar has melted, about 1 minute.
In a small bowl, whisk together the whole egg, egg yolk, and remaining ½ cup milk. Whisk the mixture into the pan. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the tapioca is thick, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes. Uncover and stir the mixture to blend in the chocolate. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
A nice option for those who have eliminated dairy from their diets.
In a small saucepan, stir the water into the cocoa powder. Stir in the honey and heat over very low heat until hot. Stir in the chocolate chips and stir until melted. Set the chocolate syrup aside to cool slightly.
In a food processor, combine the chocolate syrup, tofu, brown sugar, cinnamon, and almond extract. Puree until smooth.
Spoon into 4 dessert dishes and chill until serving time. To serve, scatter the nuts on top.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Who doesn’t love chocolate and peanut butter together?
In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch, ½ cup of the milk, and ¼ cup of the brown sugar. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg.
In a medium saucepan, combine the remaining 1 cup milk and ¼ cup brown sugar, the peanut butter, and the salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Whisk the cornstarch mixture into the hot milk mixture and cook, whisking, until thickened, about 5 minutes.
Gradually whisk some of the hot milk mixture into the beaten egg, then whisk the warmed egg mixture back into the hot milk mixture and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the chocolate liqueur. Let cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, place the water in a small heatproof bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over, and let stand until softened, about 4 minutes. Set the bowl over a small saucepan of simmering water and stir until the gelatin dissolves, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
With an electric mixer, beat the half-and-half and yogurt until foamy. Gradually add the honey and beat until thickened. Beat in the dissolved gelatin until well combined.
Fold the half-and-half mixture into the peanut butter mixture. Spoon the mousse into 4 serving bowls and chill until set, about 2 hours.
To serve, drizzle each serving with the melted chocolate and sprinkle with the peanuts.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
A lemony, fragrant custard enhanced with the taste and texture of amaranth grains.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter 8 individual custard cups and place in a large roasting pan.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Beat in the milk and honey. Stir in the amaranth, raisins, vanilla, lemon zest, and lemon juice.
Pour the mixture into the custard cups. Set the roasting pan on a pulled-out oven rack and pour in 1 inch of boiling water. Bake for 1 hour, or until the custards are firm and a knife inserted near the edge of a custard comes out clean. Remove from the water bath and let cool. Serve warm or chilled.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Barley makes a nice, chewy substitute for rice in a sweet, fruit-studded baked pudding.
In a large saucepan, combine the milk, barley, and salt. Cook over medium-low heat until the barley is tender, 45 to 55 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a small bowl, beat the eggs. Add the cherries, rice syrup, and vanilla. Slowly stir the egg mixture into the barley and cook over very low heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Spoon the mixture into 4 to 6 individual custard cups and sprinkle lightly with cinnamon. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the custard is set. Cool, then refrigerate. Serve chilled.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
The exotic flavor and aroma of cardamom are seductive. Serve the pudding with hot Raspberry Sauce. To read more about steamed pudding molds, see “Steamed Puddings,”.
Butter a 2-quart steamed pudding mold. Select a pot wide enough and deep enough to hold the mold. Place a rack in the bottom of the pot.
In a 1-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour and salt, and cook for several minutes, but do not brown. Pour in the milk and stir until well blended. Cook over low heat until very thick and smooth, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and let the white sauce cool to lukewarm.
With an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry.
In a separate large bowl, combine the egg yolks, nuts, honey, cardamom, and saffron (if using), and beat until frothy. Stir in the white sauce. Fold in the egg whites.
Pour the mixture into the pudding mold and cover tightly with a lid or 2 thicknesses of foil or parchment paper tied with string. Set the mold on the rack in the pot and pour boiling water into the pot until it reaches halfway up the sides of the mold Cover the pot and set over low heat so the water boils gently, and cook for 2 hours, or until the pudding is firm and has pulled gently away from the sides of the mold. Add more water if necessary as the pudding cooks.
Let cool for 10 minutes. Unmold onto a serving plate.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Serve with cold English Custard Sauce.
Butter a 1-quart steamed pudding mold. Select a pot wide enough and deep enough to hold the mold. Place a rack in the bottom of the pot.
In a large bowl, combine the pineapple juice, egg, honey, yogurt, and oil. Stir in the dates, raisins, nuts, and vanilla. Mix well.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and nutmeg. Stir into the fruit mixture.
Pour the batter into the mold and cover tightly with a lid or 2 thicknesses of foil or parchment paper tied with string. Set the mold on the rack in the pot and pour boiling water into the pot until it reaches halfway up the sides of the mold. Cover the pot and set over low heat so the water boils gently, and cook for 1 hour. Add more water if necessary as the pudding cooks.
Preheat the oven to 250°F.
Remove the mold from the steamer and transfer to the oven. Bake for 1 hour, or until the pudding is firm and cooked through.
Unmold the pudding onto a large serving plate.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Rich as satin, this classic dessert is drenched in honey syrup in the style of the Middle East.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8 × 8-inch baking pan.
In a medium bowl, cream the butter and brown sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Gradually fold in the farina, almonds, and cinnamon. Pour into the pan and bake for 30 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes.
In a small saucepan, simmer the honey and water for 10 minutes and pour over the halva. Cool and cut into squares or diamonds.
MAKES 16 SERVINGS
Be careful not to buy canned pumpkin pie mix, which is sweetened and has spices added to it.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 1½-quart baking dish.
In a medium saucepan, combine the pumpkin puree, buttermilk, orange juice, ¼ cup of the honey, the butter, and nutmeg, and blend well. Bring to a boil.
In a small bowl, combine the flour and water, and stir into the pumpkin mixture. Simmer, stirring frequently, until thick and smooth, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.
With an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating. Gradually add the remaining 1 tablespoon honey and continue beating until stiff peaks form.
In another small bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks. Stir in a little of the hot pumpkin mixture to warm the yolks, then stir the yolks into the pumpkin mixture. Stir in the orange zest. Fold in the egg whites.
Pour the batter into the baking dish. Bake for 1 hour, or until firm. Serve warm.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Serve with frozen yogurt or sherbet.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter an 8 × 8-inch baking pan.
In a medium bowl, cream the butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and blend well.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Add portions of the flour mixture to the butter mixture, alternating with the buttermilk. Stir in the dates and pecans.
Scrape the batter into the pan. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the pudding is light brown and springs back when touched. Let cool slightly. Serve warm.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Italian prune plums are small oval plums with bluepurple skin and a light flesh. These are the plums that are dried to make prunes. Serve this delicious bread pudding with homemade crème fraîche (opposite).
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 5-cup shallow baking dish.
In a small bowl, blend the butter and 2 tablespoons of the honey together. Spread one side of each bread slice with the honey butter. Cut each slice into 4 squares and set aside.
In a deep heavy-bottomed pot, combine the remaining ½ cup honey, the water, and the orange zest. Stir over medium heat until the mixture comes to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook the syrup for 3 minutes.
Add the plums, cover, and simmer until the plums are tender but still firm, 5 to 8 minutes. (They should not become mushy or disintegrate.)
Arrange the bread butter-side down on the bottom of the baking dish. With a slotted spoon, transfer the plums to the bread. (Reserve the poaching syrup.) Cover the plums with the remaining squares of bread, butter-side up, in slightly overlapping rows. Transfer the baking dish to a roasting pan.
In a medium bowl, combine ¼ cup of the reserved poaching liquid, the whole eggs, egg yolks, milk, vanilla, and salt, and beat well.
Pour the custard mixture over the bread in the baking dish. Place the roasting pan on a pulled-out oven rack and add hot water to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 30 minutes, pressing down on the bread once or twice to keep it moist and in place.
Increase the oven temperature to 425°F and bake until the top browns. Serve warm or chilled.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Multi-grain sandwich bread gives body to this comforting dessert, but you can easily substitute brioche, sourdough, or even cinnamon raisin bread. It’s fine to use reduced-fat 2% milk.
In a large metal bowl, whisk together the sugar, whole eggs, and egg yolks. Add ½ cup of the chocolate chips.
In a medium saucepan, bring the milk just to a boil over medium-high heat. Slowly stir the hot milk into the egg mixture, stirring vigorously until the chocolate is melted (it’s okay if the mixture is not perfectly blended).
Cut the bread slices into 1½-inch squares (about 6 cups). Add the bread and vanilla to the milk mixture and stir to moisten the bread. Let sit for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil a 9 × 9-inch baking pan and place in a large roasting pan.
Stir the remaining ½ cup chocolate chips and the apricots into the bread mixture. Spread evenly in the baking pan. Top with the almonds. Place the roasting pan on a pulled-out oven rack. Add boiling water to the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking pan. Bake for 1 hour 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove the baking pan from the water bath and let cool on a rack.
MAKES 10 SERVINGS
A delicious alternative to sour cream and yogurt, crème fraîche is a thick, subtly tart fermented cream. Combine 2 tablespoons cultured buttermilk and 1 cup cream in a clean, warm jar with a screw top. Cover the jar tightly and set it in a warm place for 12 to 24 hours. When the mixture has set or is almost firm, transfer to the refrigerator to complete thickening. Crème fraîche will keep nicely in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.
If you can’t get fresh tart cherries (they have a very short season), use sweet cherries and omit the sugar.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter an 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pan.
Lightly spread both sides of the bread slices with the butter. Place 2 slices of bread in the bottom of the loaf pan, trimming to fit if necessary. Cover with the cherries. Sprinkle with the sugar. Place the remaining 2 slices of bread on top.
In a medium bowl, gradually beat the honey into the eggs and continue beating until pale yellow, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisking constantly, slowly beat in the hot milk. Stir in the vanilla, salt, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. Pour the custard over the bread and cherries. Let stand for 10 minutes to let the bread absorb the custard.
Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 30 more minutes, or until the eggs are set and the top is nicely browned. Let cool slightly. Serve with the English Custard Sauce.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
A fallen soufflé is a dense, moist dessert, made extra rich here by the ground walnuts. Consider this recipe in the fall when nuts are plentiful in the market.
*milled from white wheat grains
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 1½- or 2-quart baking dish.
With an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until frothy. Gradually beat in the honey, and beat until thick and lemon colored. Beat in the flour, nuts, and salt. Add the milk and blend well. Fold in the egg whites.
Pour the batter into the baking dish. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the edges are puffed and the center still looks a bit moist. Cool on a wire rack.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Greek yogurt is a thick, creamy yogurt that has had much of the whey drained from it so it is about double the thickness of regular yogurt. It is easy to make your own: Set a strainer over a bowl and line the strainer with dampened cheesecloth or paper towels. Spoon regular yogurt into the strainer and let drain in the refrigerator for 5 hours, or until reduced by half.
Dried peaches or nectarines would also be great here. Cut them in half before measuring them, though, to approximate the same volume as apricots.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.Butter the bottom and sides of a 1½-quart soufflé dish and dust with ¼ cup of the ground almonds.
In a small saucepan, combine the apricots and enough water to just cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until they are very soft, about 20 minutes.
Drain the apricots, transfer to a blender or food processor, and puree. Blend in the remaining ¼ cup almonds, lemon juice, arrowroot, and almond extract.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks until pale. Gradually add ⅓ cup of the honey and continue beating until light and fluffy. Beat in the apricot mixture.
In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and continue beating. Gradually add the remaining 2 tablespoons honey and continue beating until stiff but not dry. Fold half of the egg whites into the apricot mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining egg whites just enough to combine.
Pour the batter into the soufflé dish. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the soufflé is tall and puffed. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
If you like, fold in chunks of crisp cookies before turning the semifreddo into the loaf pan.
Line an 8 × 4-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving a 2-inch overhang all around.
Place the chocolate in a medium bowl set over, not in, a pan of simmering water. Do not stir, but when the chocolate looks about two-thirds melted, remove the bowl from the heat and stir until smooth. (The residual heat in the bowl does the rest of the job.)
Place the eggs and ⅓ cup of the sugar in a large bowl set over, not in, a pan of simmering water. Whisk until thick and the whisk leaves track marks in the mixture, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, whisk in the chocolate, vanilla, and salt, and let cool to room temperature.
With an electric mixer, beat the cream to soft peaks. Beat in the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and beat to stiff peaks.
Fold about ½ cup of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whipped cream. Spoon into the loaf pan and fold the plastic wrap over to cover. Freeze for at least 6 hours.
To serve, uncover and invert the loaf onto a serving platter. Remove the plastic wrap and let the loaf stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before slicing.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Semifreddo means half-frozen, but it really implies a dessert made with the same ingredients as ice cream, but not churned in an ice cream machine.
In the top of a double boiler, lightly beat the eggs, then gradually add the syrup. Set over hot water and cook, stirring with a wire whisk or wooden spoon, until thick and smooth, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Fold in the whipped cream. Spoon into individual soufflé dishes or parfait glasses. Freeze for several hours.
When ready to serve, top with the walnuts.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
MAPLE-RUM SEMIFREDDO: Add 1 tablespoon dark rum to the custard mixture.
Melting chocolate takes a little bit of finesse. Even the slightest bit of moisture that falls into a pot of melting chocolate will cause it to seize up and become unusable. There are several methods of melting chocolate that will make this less likely to happen:
Microwave method: Place the chocolate in a microwave safe bowl and microwave in 15-second increments, testing the chocolate each time to see if it has melted. Microwaved chocolate will hold its shape and not look melted, tempting some people to continue cooking it, which will burn the chocolate.
Double-boiler method: Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler. This is especially good if you’re dealing with large quantities of chocolate, but somewhat inefficient if you only have an ounce or so to melt.
Bowl over hot water: With this method you can melt any quantity of chocolate and match the size of the bowl to your needs. Find a bowl that will rest on the top rim of a saucepan without falling into the pan. Bring an inch or so of water to a boil in the pan. Then turn off the heat, place the bowl over the just boiled water, and stir the chocolate until it melts.
Here’s a basic, custard-based ice cream.
In a small bowl, combine ½ cup of the milk, the honey, and cornstarch. Stir until smooth.
In the top of a double boiler, scald the remaining 1½ cups milk. Stir in the cornstarch mixture very slowly. Cook over hot water for 8 minutes. Add the egg yolks and cook for 2 more minutes. The mixture should be thick and smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Stir the cream and vanilla into the mixture. Pour into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 3 PINTS
PRUNE ICE CREAM: Add 1 cup pureed cooked prunes to the mixture before or after processing in the ice cream maker.
PUMPKIN ICE CREAM: Add 1 cup solid-pack pumpkin puree, sweetened with ½ cup honey and spiced with ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ⅛ teaspoon ground ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves, to the mixture before processing.
PRUNE ICE CREAM: Add 1 cup pureed cooked prunes to the mixture before or after processing in the ice cream maker.
PUMPKIN ICE CREAM: Add 1 cup solid-pack pumpkin puree, sweetened with ⅓ cup honey and spiced with ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ⅛ teaspoon ground ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves, to the mixture before processing.
Whipping the cream before combining it with the chopped peaches makes this eggless ice cream lighter than others.
Place the peaches in a medium bowl. Add the honey and lemon juice, and toss well. Cover and set aside for 2 hours. Reserving the juices, drain the peaches and transfer to a food processor.
Place ¾ cup of the reserved juice in a small saucepan. Sprinkle with the gelatin and let sit for 5 minutes to soften. Stir over low heat until the gelatin is completely dissolved.
Add the gelatin mixture to the peaches and process until finely chopped. Transfer the peach mixture to a bowl and refrigerate until it begins to thicken. Fold in the whipped cream. Pour into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1 QUART
Serve topped with Blueberry Sauce (below).
In a small saucepan, combine the honey, lemon zest, and lemon juice, and stir over low heat until blended.
In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks until light and thick. Continue beating while slowly adding the honey mixture. Beat until thick and thoroughly cooled. Stir in the cream. Pour into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1½ QUARTS
Fresh blueberry sauce makes a great ice cream topping, but you can also stir it into yogurt to make a dessert called a fool. To make a blueberry fool, lightly sweeten Greek yogurt with honey or maple syrup and swirl some of this blueberry sauce into it. Use about one part blueberry sauce to two parts yogurt.
Rub the spread through a fine-mesh sieve into a 1-quart saucepan. Add the lemon juice and stir over low heat until it comes to a boil. Add the blueberries and continue to stir until the mixture is warm. (Do not cook too long; the berries should not fall apart.)
MAKES 3 CUPS
This luxurious, slightly sour ice cream is adapted from a recipe from a gourmet diner in Greenwich Village in New York City. The fresh basil adds a peppery bite. You may substitute raspberries, blackberries, or strawberries for blueberries.
In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, granulated sugar, and rice syrup. Stir over medium-low heat until the sugar has just dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not let the mixture scald or simmer. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl, and add the sour cream. Whisk until smooth.
Place the mixture in the freezer for about 10 minutes to quick-cool.
Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, gently crush three-fourths of the blueberries with the superfine sugar. Stir in the remaining whole berries. Slit open the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the mixture. Add the lemon juice and half the basil, and stir to mix. Let stand about 20 minutes, until the ice cream is ready.
To serve, spoon some of the berry mixture onto each dessert plate. Top with a scoop of ice cream and sprinkle with the remaining basil strips.
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
You can make this any time of year because frozen cherries work just as well as fresh in this recipe. In fact, you can chop them while they’re still frozen.
In a medium bowl, combine the buttermilk, cherries, honey, pineapple juice, and lemon zest, and mix well.
Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1 QUART
When you drain the pineapple, be sure to save the juice to use to make the gelatin.
In a small saucepan, combine the gelatin and juice. Place over low heat and stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved, about 3 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk the yogurt until smooth. Stir in the crushed pineapple, honey, and nuts. Fold in the gelatin mixture, and whisk lightly until well blended.
Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1½ PINTS
In a pinch, you could use canned mandarin oranges instead of tangerines.
In a small bowl, combine the rice syrup, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Mix well.
Pour the milk into a large bowl and slowly whisk in the lemon-syrup mixture. Stir in the banana and tangerines.
Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1 QUART
Flavored soymilks often have natural thickeners to give the beverage weight, which works well in this frozen dessert.
In a blender, process the soymilk, banana, and maple syrup until smooth.
Pour the mixture into the canister of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
MAKES 1 QUART
The more you break up a granita as it freezes, the finer the texture of the crystals. This granita is soft with medium-size crystals. Unlike the normal still-freezing method (see), when you make a granita, you use a fork instead of a rotary beater to break up the ice crystals.
In a medium bowl, stir the agave nectar into the pomegranate juice until combined. Pour the mixture into a 9 × 13-inch glass or metal baking dish and freeze.
After an hour, use a fork to break up the mixture by raking across the surface to make fine-grained fragments. Repeat every 30 minutes until frozen, about 3 hours.
To serve, scrape up granita with a spoon and mound into dessert glasses. Top with the pomegranate arils if using, and a mint leaf.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Instead of using a fork as in the traditional method of making dessert, this refreshing granita takes advantage of the power of a food processor. You can make this summer ice with cantaloupe, muskmelon, or watermelon. Look for a melon that is fragrant and feels heavy for its size. Adjust the amount of sugar in the recipe according to the sweetness of the fruit.
In a small saucepan, heat the water and sugar over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Let cool to lukewarm.
In a food processor, combine the cooled sugar mixture, melon, and lemon juice, and puree until smooth (makes about 4 cups). Transfer to a 9 × 3-inch glass or metal baking dish. Freeze for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes, until frozen solid.
Break into chunks and puree in a food processor. Transfer to a plastic container and return to the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes, until the granita is firm. Serve in chilled dessert bowls or glasses.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Prepare any of these frozen dessert recipes as directed, but don’t freeze in an ice cream maker. Instead, pour the mixture into one (or more, depending on the quantity in the recipe) 8- or 9-inch-square metal baking pans. Place in the freezer for about 1 hour, or until the mixture is mushy but not solid.
Transfer the mixture to a chilled bowl and beat rapidly with a chilled rotary beater until smooth. Work as quickly as possible to prevent melting.
Return the mixture to the pan(s) and return to the freezer. When it has frozen almost solid, remove and beat again until smooth.
Cover the pan(s) with plastic wrap to prevent ice crystals from forming on the top. Place in the freezer again to complete setting.