There are many wonderful things about making desserts, not least that you get to eat them afterward. One of the other pluses is that you probably have most of the staples in your cupboard or refrigerator right now: flour, sugar, baking powder, eggs, butter, milk, vanilla extract, baking chocolate. From there, it’s not a huge leap into the delicious world of cakes, pies, custards, ice creams, and cookies—not to mention Linzertortes, Pavlovas, baked Alaskas, tiered wedding cakes, and croquembouches. Following is a guide to the ingredients you’ll be using most often as you bake and cook your way through the recipes in this book, from angel food cake to zabaglione.
Whisk Ratings
To help you determine at a glance which recipe fits your skill level, we’ve given every recipe in the book a “whisk rating,” on a scale of one to four whisks. A complete Index of Whisk Ratings begins on page 638.
Very easy to make, with no special techniques required. Perfect for the novice.
A little more challenging. For the beginner with confidence.
Sophisticated, requiring more mastery of technique, such as caramelizing sugar. For the experienced cook.
A showstopping dessert with many steps and components. For the expert baker.
WHAT: Pliable sweet “doughs” made primarily of ground blanched almonds and sugar, with the addition of glucose or egg whites.
USES: Almond paste is usually used as an ingredient in desserts for flavor and texture. Marzipan is lighter, finer, and sweeter and is often tinted and sculpted into fruit, vegetable, or animal shapes. In the recipes here, it is usually rolled into sheets to cover cakes or to be cut into various shapes.
FIND: In tubes or cans at most supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
STORE: Unopened in a dry, cool place for up to a year; once opened, store airtight in the refrigerator for up to three months.
WHAT: Key leavening agents for baked goods—in other words, they help cakes, cookies, and muffins rise and have an airy texture. Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) has four times the leavening power of baking powder. It releases carbon dioxide gas when combined with an acidic ingredient (like buttermilk, molasses, sour cream, or yogurt) and causes dough and batter to rise. Baking powder is a mixture of baking soda, cornstarch, and one or more powdered acids, which release carbon dioxide gas first when moistened and a second time when heated, thus giving baking powder a double-acting leavening ability.
USES: When using baking soda or baking powder, whisk them with the other dry ingredients to distribute them evenly.
FIND: In the baking aisle. You can make your own baking powder by whisking 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar with 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1½ tablespoons cornstarch three times to ensure that it is well blended.
STORE: In a cool, dry place for about six months. Store homemade baking powder airtight at room temperature for up to one month.
WHAT: Butter is made by churning cream until it separates, forming a milky liquid and the solid butterfat. Unsalted butter is the preferred choice for baking since it allows you to control the amount of salt in recipes. European butter (also known in the U.S. as cultured butter) is made by churning fermented cream rather than regular cream; it has a higher percentage of milk fat and works well in desserts.
USES: Butter adds flavor and richness, makes baked goods tender and flaky, extends the shelf life of breads, and aids in browning. Well-chilled butter is crucial to the success of baked goods like biscuits, shortcakes, scones, and pie dough; however, when beating butter with sugar for cakes and most cookie doughs, the butter will “cream” better if it is at room temperature.
FIND: European butter, such as Plugrá (European-style butter) and Isigny Ste-Mère, can be found alongside regular butter in well-stocked supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
STORE: Butter absorbs odors easily; store it airtight in the coldest part of the refrigerator and away from foods for one to two months (wrapped). Regular butter can be frozen for up to six months, European-style butter for up to four.
WHAT: The purest form of chocolate is the cacao nib, formed after cacao beans are removed from their pods, fermented, dried, roasted, shelled, and cracked open. You can use nibs to add subtle chocolate flavor and a crunchy texture to baked goods, but most nibs are ground into a paste called chocolate liquor. Chocolate liquor is, basically, a combination of cocoa solids and cocoa butter; after further stages of refining, chocolate as we know it is formed.
USES: As a rule of thumb, use the best-quality chocolate you can find and afford. In fact, many of our recipes specify “high-quality chocolate” such as Lindt, Perugina, Valrhona, and Scharffen Berger, which reward you with incredible depth of flavor, sweetness, and smooth texture. Most labels on packages of chocolate now indicate the percentage of cacao—the higher the percentage of cacao, the less sugar and other ingredients.
Dark chocolate includes unsweetened, bittersweet, and semisweet chocolates.
Unsweetened chocolate (100 percent cacao) is pure chocolate with no other ingredients, including sugar; also referred to as baking chocolate.
Bittersweet and semisweet chocolates contain sugar, vanilla, and lecithin, an emulsifier; sometimes you’ll also see milk solids added to mellow the flavor. Bittersweet has a richer chocolate flavor and is less sweet since it has a higher percentage of cacao. In certain Bon Appétit recipes, to guarantee the best results, it’s important to use a bittersweet or semisweet chocolate that doesn’t have too high a percentage of cacao; in those cases, we specify that the chocolate should not exceed 61 percent cacao. In other recipes, the cacao percentage will not affect the outcome; those recipes will simply call for “bittersweet or semisweet chocolate.”
Milk chocolate, made with the addition of dry milk powder, has more sugar than bittersweet or semisweet chocolate.
White chocolate is technically not chocolate because it doesn’t contain chocolate liquor. It is a blend of cocoa butter, sugar, milk products, vanilla, and lecithin. For the best results when using white chocolate in a recipe, use the highest quality possible; make sure it contains cocoa butter, not vegetable oil. Lindt and Perugina are excellent brands.
FIND: In the baking aisle or the candy aisle. If your supermarket doesn’t carry high-quality chocolate, check specialty foods stores or online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).
STORE: Wrap tightly and store in a cool, dry place. Unopened, chocolate will keep for several months.
WHAT: A powder made of the chocolate liquor extracted from cocoa beans.
USES: Natural cocoa (sometimes labeled simply “cocoa” or “nonalkalized cocoa”) is slightly acidic and has a strong flavor and a slightly red color. Many baked goods rely on natural cocoa’s acidity to help set the proteins in baked goods. Dutch-process cocoa has been treated with an alkali, which neutralizes its acidity, softens the harsh flavor, and dramatically darkens the color. But because it lacks acidity, it might not set the proteins properly in baked goods, resulting in cakes that collapse, for example. Use Dutch-process cocoa only in recipes that call for it; substituting Dutch-process for natural cocoa is not recommended.
FIND: In the baking aisle (natural cocoa) or the coffee and tea aisle.
STORE: In a tightly covered container in a cold, dark place for up to two years.
WHAT: Purchased cookies, such as graham crackers, chocolate or vanilla wafers, biscotti, shortbread, gingersnaps, or any other crisp cookie.
USES: Cookies are often used to make delicious, easy crumb crusts for pies, tarts, and cheesecakes. The cookies are ground into fine crumbs, then combined with butter or shortening and usually some sugar to form a moist, sandy texture that clumps together when squeezed, ensuring that the crumbs will stick to the sides of a pan.
FIND: In the cookie aisle or—depending on the cookie—in specialty foods stores or ethnic markets.
STORE: Unopened packages usually last a month or more.
WHAT: A white, silky powder made from dried and ground corn kernels.
USES: Lends a fine texture to cakes, cookies, and other pastries (it sometimes replaces part of the flour) and is used to thicken puddings, pastry creams, and cooked fruit fillings for pies and cobblers. Sauces thickened with cornstarch remain clear, whereas those thickened with flour turn opaque. To avoid lumps, mix cornstarch with a cold liquid, such as milk, then gradually whisk it into the hot liquid, or mix it with sugar, then add a cold liquid and stir while cooking. For cornstarch to thicken properly, it must come to a near boil.
FIND: In the baking aisle.
STORE: In a cool, dry place for up to a year.
WHAT: A derivative of cornstarch, corn syrup comes in light and dark varieties.
USES: It is often used in recipes for caramel, fudge, and frostings, as it inhibits sugar from crystallizing and creates a smooth texture. It also keeps ice cream creamy by preventing the formation of ice crystals. Light corn syrup is clear and thick and imparts a mild, sugar-like sweetness. Dark corn syrup contains caramel color and flavoring and adds a molasses-like sweetness. It can also be used as a topping for pancakes, waffles, and cornbread.
FIND: Light corn syrup can be found year-round in the baking aisle at the supermarket; dark corn syrup is available at many supermarkets and is especially easy to find at holiday time.
STORE: For up to six months in a cool, dry place.
WHAT: A soft, spreadable cheese made from cow’s milk.
USES: Cream cheese is the basis for most cheesecakes and many frostings. When baking with cream cheese, we prefer Philadelphia brand, as it sets frostings and cheesecakes better than other brands. (Do not substitute whipped cream cheese or low fat or nonfat cream cheese.)
FIND: In the dairy case.
STORE: Once opened, cream cheese should be used within ten days. Unopened, it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one month past the sell-by date.
WHAT: Cream of coconut is made from coconut milk that has been sweetened with sugar. (It is much sweeter than coconut milk, and these two items are not interchangeable.)
USES: Used mainly in desserts and mixed drinks.
FIND: It is available canned as Coco López or in a squeeze bottle as Coco Reál in the beverage and mixers section of most liquor stores and supermarkets.
STORE: Unopened, it will last for up to a year in a cool, dry place.
WHAT: A fine white powder made from tartaric acid.
USES: It is beaten into egg whites when making meringue to help stabilize the egg foam and prevent it from weeping. It also serves as the acid in many baking powders. Because it inhibits the formation of sugar crystals, it is often used in candies and frosting to create a creamy texture.
FIND: In the spice section of the baking aisle.
STORE: In a cool, dry, dark cupboard for up to a year.
WHAT: Originally, buttermilk was the liquid that remained after butter was churned. Today it’s made in a similar way to yogurt and is known as “cultured buttermilk”: Bacterial cultures are added to milk, and the mixture is heated at a low temperature. The bacteria cause the milk to ferment and thicken, resulting in buttermilk’s creamy texture and slightly tart flavor. Despite its name, commercial buttermilk is low in fat, with only 0.5 percent to 2 percent butterfat.
USES: Buttermilk is used in many baked goods, such as cakes, scones, corn-bread, and coffee cake, though it can also be used to make deliciously tangy ice cream, custard, and panna cotta.
FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket.
STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.
WHAT: Cream is formed naturally when milk separates into two layers—a thick, creamy top layer with a thin milky liquid below. The percentage of milk fat in the top layer determines what kind of cream it will be: Heavy whipping cream, which is what Bon Appétit dessert recipes call for, has 36 percent to 40 percent milk fat. For the thickest, richest whipped cream, use pasteurized (not ultra-pasteurized) heavy whipping cream. Note that organic whipping cream will take much longer to whip.
USES: Whipping cream lends an unmatched richness to desserts and a tenderness to many baked goods. Heavy whipping cream is the basis for rich custards, ice creams, ganache, and, of course, fluffy whipped cream. Whipping cream becomes thick and airy and doubles in size when whipped, and the process occurs more quickly when the cream, mixing bowl, and beaters are well chilled.
FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket.
STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.
WHAT: Sour cream is similar to yogurt in that it is treated with a lactic acid culture to give it a tangy flavor and thick texture, but cream is used instead of milk. Crème fraîche is also made with a starter culture—the result is a sweet, tangy cream that’s similar in consistency to sour cream.
USES: Sour cream, along with yogurt and buttermilk, is a key ingredient in baked goods, as its acidity not only helps tenderize cakes, quick breads, and pie crusts, but also helps set the proteins so that pie crusts don’t slide down the sides of the pie dish. Crème fraîche is often used in place of sour cream or as a tangy alternative to whipped cream as a topping.
FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket. Crème fraîche is available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.
WHAT: Yogurt is made by adding bacterial cultures to milk and cooking the mixture at a low temperature. The bacteria cause the milk to thicken, giving yogurt a creamy texture and slightly tart flavor. Most of the yogurt available in supermarkets is made from cow’s milk, although sheep and goat’s milk yogurts are also available. Greek-style yogurt is a type of strained yogurt, made by straining the yogurt through cheesecloth or a coffee filter to remove the excess liquid.
USES: Yogurt adds tanginess and moistness to cakes and quick breads. It is also a lighter alternative to sour cream and crème fraîche, which are made from cream.
FIND: In the dairy section of the supermarket. If you can’t find Greek-style yogurt there, look for it at specialty foods stores (such as Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods markets) and Greek markets.
STORE: In the refrigerator. Check the sell-by date on the package.
WHAT: Organic eggs are the preferred choice in baking, since the chickens are fed an organic diet and raised without antibiotics. The color of an eggshell—white, brown, green, or blue—makes no difference to the flavor or nutritional value of the egg (the shell color varies with the breed of hen).
USES: Most baking recipes call for large eggs, but always use the size that the recipe calls for to ensure the best results. For meringues, make sure the egg whites are at room temperature to ensure more volume. (You can use packaged egg whites if you prefer, but you may not achieve the same results; the Bon Appétit test kitchen uses only fresh egg whites.)
FIND: Most supermarkets now offer regular, free-range, and organic eggs; farmers’ markets are also a good source for organic eggs.
STORE: In their carton in the coldest part of the refrigerator (usually the bottom shelf) for up to a month.
WHAT: Concentrated flavorings, such as vanilla, almond, and peppermint. Some are extracted from the oil of plants (such as mint and bitter almonds); others are made by distilling and pressing ingredients (such as vanilla beans).
USES: Always use pure extracts and avoid imitation extracts, which are inferior in quality and flavor. Extracts are useful in baking, as they can be added to batter, dough, sauce, ice cream, and custard without affecting the texture or consistency. Since their flavors are intense, they should be used sparingly. For the best results, add extracts to mixtures that are slightly cooled, since heat weakens the flavors. Vanilla extract is the most widely used extract, as it complements most other flavors (see page 14 for more on vanilla extract). Almond extract has a strong, sweet flavor that complements most pitted fruits, such as cherries, apricots, plums, and peaches. Peppermint extract pairs well with chocolate.
FIND: In the baking aisle.
STORE: Indefinitely in a cool, dark place.
WHAT: Wheat flour is the essential ingredient of many desserts; hard and soft wheat are the two main types of wheat used to make it. The difference is the amount of protein in each. When flour is mixed with water to form dough, the proteins in the flour bond to create a gum-like substance called gluten. Gluten is stretchy and gives dough the elasticity to expand and trap the gas formed by leavening agents like yeast, baking powder, and baking soda. Hard wheat is high in protein and forms flour with stronger gluten; flour made from soft wheat has less protein.
USES: Getting the proper texture for various baked goods requires different types of flour:
All purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheats; it is the most common flour used in home kitchens. It can be used for making most baked goods, including breads, cookies, pie crusts, and cakes (unless otherwise specified in the recipe). The recipes in this book call for unbleached all purpose flour, which has not been exposed to bleaching chemicals; instead the ground flour has turned from yellow to white naturally through exposure to oxygen.
Cake flour is soft wheat flour and results in baked goods with a tender texture.
Pastry flour is soft wheat flour with a bit more protein than cake flour; it’s good for making pie doughs, muffins, biscuits, and pastries. Whole wheat pastry flour is also available.
Self-rising flour is all purpose flour with baking powder and salt added. If you don’t have self-rising flour on hand, you can add 1½ teaspoons of baking powder and ¼ teaspoon salt to 1 cup of all purpose flour to equal 1 cup of self-rising flour.
Bread flour is unbleached flour made with hard wheat and is high in gluten. Because it results in a well-risen loaf, it is the best flour to use for making yeast breads.
Whole wheat flour contains the grain’s bran and germ and so has a higher fiber and oil content. White whole wheat flour is milled from white, rather than red, wheat. It has a milder flavor and lighter color than traditional whole wheat but the same fiber and nutrition.
FIND: Most flours can be found in the baking aisle; some specialty flours can be found online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).
STORE: Airtight in a cool, dry place for up to six months. Whole wheat flour should be refrigerated (for up to six months) to keep the oils in the flour from turning rancid.
WHAT: Fresh fruits that have been dehydrated, retaining only 15 percent to 25 percent of their original moisture; dried fruits have a more concentrated flavor than their fresh counterparts.
Dried tart cherries, also known as dried sour cherries, have a wonderful sweet-tart flavor. Dried Bing cherries are sweeter and darker.
Dried apricots are available sulphured and unsulphured. Sulphured dried apricots are more common. They are preserved with sulphur dioxide to extend the shelf life, lighten the color, and keep the dried fruit soft. Unsulphured and organic fruit is darker and sweeter.
Raisins are dried grapes usually made from Thompson seedless or Muscat grapes. Thompson seedless grapes can be used to produce both dark and golden raisins. When the grapes are sun-dried for several weeks, the resulting raisins are darker and more shriveled. To produce golden raisins, the grapes are treated with sulphur dioxide, then dried with artificial heat; golden raisins are fatter and more moist. Raisins made from Muscat grapes are dark and very sweet.
Dried currants, also called Zante currants, are actually not currants; they are tiny raisins made by drying Black Corinth seedless grapes (when fresh, these grapes are also known as Champagne grapes). Dried currants are not related to fresh currants.
Dried figs come in two varieties—dried Calimyrna figs, with thick, beige skin, and dried black Mission figs, which have very dark skin. You can use these varieties interchangeably in Bon Appétit recipes, though the appearance will be different. The figs should be sweet and still relatively moist. Trim the tough tip of the stem, then chop them into a suitable size and add them to baked goods.
Dried coconut is unsweetened shredded, shaved, or chipped coconut flesh. It is different from sweetened flaked coconut, which has been dried, flaked, rehydrated, and sweetened and tends to be moister; they are not interchangeable. Both types lend a mild, sweet, coconut flavor and texture to desserts and are often used as a garnish. When toasted, dried coconut becomes golden and crunchy with a slightly nuttier flavor.
USES: Dried fruits add flavor and sweetness as well as texture to pastries and baked goods. You can use dried fruits as is, or reconstitute them by soaking them in warm liquid—such as water, wine, fruit juice, or liqueur—until they are soft. (But reconstituted fruit is very different from fresh fruit, so don’t try to substitute it for fresh.) Dried fruit can also be simmered in a fruit compote, where it softens considerably.
FIND: Most dried fruits are available in the dried fruit section or produce department of supermarkets and specialty foods stores. Unsulphured dried fruits, such as apricots, are available at natural foods stores and some supermarkets. Dried unsweetened shredded coconut is available at specialty foods stores, natural foods stores, and some supermarkets. Sweetened flaked coconut is available in the baking aisle at most supermarkets. See Online and Mail-Order Sources, page 632, for other places to find dried fruits.
STORE: Keep airtight at room temperature for several months or refrigerate in a tightly sealed bag for up to a year.
WHAT: Frozen fruit is a convenient alternative to fresh fruit since it is cleaned, peeled, pitted, cut up, and ready to use. The fruit is harvested at its peak and quickly frozen, so it is ripe, nutritious, and economical; most are available year-round (although frozen cranberries may be difficult to find in the summer).
USES: Frozen berries, cherries, and cranberries are especially good for baked goods (such as pies and cobblers), cooked sauces and compotes, and smoothies and shakes. For some recipes, the fruit does not need to be thawed before using.
FIND: In the frozen foods aisle. When purchasing frozen fruit, feel the bag to check that the pieces of fruit are separate; if they are clumped together in one large piece, this is a sign that the fruit may have been thawed due to improper handling and then refrozen. Most recipes call for unsweetened frozen fruit, but some frozen fruit is sweetened and packaged in syrup, so check the packaging carefully. To freeze your own fresh fruit, wash, trim, peel, seed or pit, and chop larger fruits, like bananas, mangoes, peaches, and strawberries (other berries and cranberries can be frozen as is), then arrange the fruit in a single layer on a baking sheet and freeze. Enclose frozen fruit in resealable plastic freezer bags and keep frozen.
STORE: In resealable plastic freezer bags in the freezer for up to six months. Unopened packages of purchased frozen fruit can be kept in the freezer for six months.
WHAT: A thickener and stabilizer derived from animal bones, cartilage, tendons, and other connective tissue (therefore, not suitable for consumption by vegetarians).
USES: Thickens desserts such as panna cotta, gelatin, mousse, pudding, parfait, and marshmallows. It does not impart any color, flavor, or smell. It must be soaked in a cool liquid (usually water) to soften, then stirred over low heat until completely dissolved before it is blended with other ingredients. Once the dessert is chilled, the gelatin becomes firm like jelly, and depending on the amount used, it will set the dessert to the desired consistency, from thickening to firming completely. Some ingredients, such as fresh figs, ginger, guava, kiwi, mangoes, papaya, and pineapple, contain an enzyme that prevents gelatin from setting; however, once cooked, they can be used.
FIND: Gelatin is sold as unflavored, unsweetened tiny granules in small packets; it’s available in the baking aisle of supermarkets. Agar, a thickener made from red algae, is a good vegetarian/vegan alternative that can be found in natural foods stores.
STORE: Gelatin keeps in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to a year. Dried agar can be stored for up to two years in an airtight container.
WHAT: Fresh ginger is a knobby root with bulbous offshoots and a spicy, sweet, pungent flavor. Dried ground ginger has a distinctive, strong flavor that is quite different than fresh ginger. Crystallized ginger is slightly chewy, candy-like pieces of ginger that have been cooked in sugar syrup and coated with sugar.
USES: Fresh ginger adds a clean and refreshing flavor to sorbets, ice creams, syrups, and sauces. Dried ground ginger is an essential ingredient in many desserts and baked goods, such as ginger cookies and gingerbread. Crystallized ginger adds spicy sweetness to cakes, scones, cookies, and ice cream. With its sparkly sugar coating, it also makes a pretty garnish.
FIND: Fresh ginger can be found in the produce section. It should be firm with smooth, tan, slightly shiny skin and a moist flesh with a fresh aroma. The skin needs to be peeled and, since fresh ginger has fibers that run down the length of the root, it should be thinly sliced crosswise or grated. Ground ginger is sold in the spice aisle. Crystallized ginger is available sliced, finely diced, and cubed at many supermarkets, natural foods stores, and Asian markets.
STORE: Fresh unpeeled ginger will keep at room temperature for up to three days, up to three weeks tightly wrapped and stored in the refrigerator, or frozen for up to six months. Dried ginger can be stored in a cool, dry place for up to six months. Crystallized ginger can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three months, in the refrigerator for up to six months, or in the freezer for up to a year.
WHAT: There are hundreds of honeys available, ranging in taste and form from robustly flavored liquid honey to whipped honey. The flavor and color of honey depends on the type of flower from which the nectar is foraged. For instance, when bees forage for honey in a lavender patch or on the blossoms of orange trees, the honey can take on the subtle flavors of that flower.
USES: Honey is a natural sweetener that is used in many desserts and as a syrup for pastries, cornbread, and breakfast items such as pancakes and French toast. It lends its distinctive flavor to classic desserts and candies, such as baklava and nougat. Cakes and cookies made with honey stay moist longer than those made with sugar. And cookies made with honey are soft rather than crisp. Honey gives chocolate sauce a gooey, fudgy texture. Clover honey, the most widely used honey, imparts a traditional honey flavor, but orange blossom honey and lavender honey are two types of honey that are prized for their floral, perfumey flavors.
FIND: Clover and other honeys are available at the supermarket and at farmers’ markets. Varietal honeys are often available in specialty foods stores, or online (see Online and Mail-Order Sources on page 632).
STORE: Airtight at room temperature for up to a year. If honey crystallizes, the jar can be heated in a pan of warm water for 10 to 20 minutes to dissolve the crystals.
WHAT: Jams and preserves are fruits cooked with sugar and sometimes pectin; preserves feature larger pieces of fruit.
USES: Jams and preserves add a sweet, concentrated fruit flavor to a variety of desserts. They can be used as filling for Italian crostatas, French jam tarts, crepes, doughnuts, and layered cakes. They are often swirled in breakfast pastries and cakes and used in cookies such as thumbprints, pinwheels, sandwich cookies, and rugelach. Apricot jam has a light amber color and is often used as a glaze for fruit tarts.
FIND: In the peanut butter section of the supermarket.
STORE: Most jams and preserves will keep for up to a year in the refrigerator.
WHAT: Pure maple syrup is the boiled-down sap of maple trees; it takes 20 to 50 gallons of sap to make a single gallon of maple syrup. Maple syrup is classified according to the intensity of its amber color, going from light (AA) to dark (C), and its maple flavor, although the grade is not a reflection of quality. Generally, the darker the syrup, the more robust the flavor. Grade B is preferred for most of the recipes in this book because of its robust flavor.
USES: Maple syrup is a natural sweetener. Because it lends a mild maple flavor to baked goods and desserts, it can sometimes be used in place of other liquid sweeteners, such as honey and corn syrup.
FIND: Grade B maple syrup can be found at the supermarket or specialty foods stores. If you can’t find Grade B, Grade A syrup can be used instead. Avoid syrups that are labeled “pancake syrup” but look like maple syrup—these less expensive imitators of maple syrup actually contain corn syrup and artificial flavors, but no maple syrup.
STORE: Once opened, maple syrup keeps in the refrigerator for up to a year.
WHAT: Although often referred to as cream cheese, Italian mascarpone is technically a very thick cream. It has an even richer, creamier flavor than heavy whipping cream and a thick, smooth, spreadable consistency. Its flavor is similar to cream cheese but has a sweeter, creamier taste compared to the tangy, salty flavor of cream cheese.
USES: Mascarpone’s creamy qualities make it a blank slate for showcasing other flavors. Mascarpone is the essential ingredient in tiramisù and is often used in cheesecakes, frostings, and mousses. It can also be served in lieu of butter atop waffles, crepes, and French toast or spread onto toast and topped with jam.
FIND: In small plastic containers in the cheese or dairy section of most supermarkets, Italian markets, specialty foods stores, and natural foods stores.
STORE: In the refrigerator for up to a month.
WHAT: A sweet, thick, dark brown syrup with a distinctive roasted, tangy flavor that is characteristic of gingerbread. Molasses is the by-product of processing sugarcane or sugar beets into table sugar. There are three basic types of molasses available: light, which comes from the first boiling of the sugar syrup; dark, from the second; and blackstrap molasses, from the third boiling. Dark molasses is more robust and less sweet than light molasses, and blackstrap molasses is even darker and more bittersweet.
USES: We recommend unsulphured molasses because it is the purest. The recipes in this book specify whether to use light or dark molasses; blackstrap should never be used because its flavor is too bitter.
FIND: Near the maple syrups in the supermarket and at specialty foods stores.
STORE: Airtight in a cool, dry place for up to a year.
WHAT: Most nuts are fruits or seeds, although peanuts are technically legumes.
USES: Nuts add flavor, texture, and richness to baked goods and desserts. They are sold shelled or unshelled, raw or roasted, salted or unsalted, or seasoned. Some, such as almonds, are available slivered, sliced, chopped, and blanched. Most desserts and baking recipes call for shelled raw or toasted nuts that are unsalted.
FIND: Because nuts are high in fat, they can easily become rancid. It is best to buy them from sources that have a high turnover rate to ensure freshness—such as natural foods stores, farmers’ markets, and online sources specializing in nuts. They’re also available at supermarkets.
STORE: To help keep them fresh, store shelled nuts airtight in the refrigerator for up to six months, and in the freezer for up to a year.
WHAT: Natural peanut butter, also known as old-fashioned peanut butter, is made by blending roasted peanuts with some salt into a paste that is either creamy or crunchy. Many major-brand regular peanut butters contain sugar, molasses, and other additives. In recent years, these brands have replaced partially hydrogenated oils with palm oil; the palm oil prevents the natural oils found in peanut butter from separating from the peanut butter.
USES: The separation of oil and peanut butter is a common occurrence in natural peanut butter, so it must be stirred to blend before it is measured. At room temperature, natural peanut butter tends to be thinner than regular peanut butter, yet firmer when cold. Since natural and regular peanut butter are quite different in texture and flavor, it is important to use the style called for in the recipe.
FIND: In the supermarket.
STORE: After opening, store in the refrigerator for up to six months.
WHAT: Although they both create decadent, flaky crusts for desserts, phyllo dough and puff pastry are quite different. Phyllo dough is paper-thin sheets of dough (made of flour, water, and oil); in many recipes, each layer is brushed with melted butter and then stacked to create a crust. Puff pastry is made by wrapping chilled butter in dough and repeatedly rolling and folding. For each, it is this layering of pastry dough with butter that makes them puff. When baked, the butter releases its moisture as steam, which is trapped by the dough, causing the layers of dough to separate and puff. Baked phyllo dough is crisper than puff pastry.
USES: Phyllo dough and puff pastry dough are two indispensable ingredients for making some of the most prized desserts and pastries, ranging from baklava and apple strudel to napoleons and elegant tarts.
FIND: Making these doughs from scratch is very labor-intensive and time-consuming, but, fortunately, they can easily be purchased. Both are widely available in the freezer section of supermarkets and specialty foods stores, near the frozen fruits and desserts. Look for frozen puff pastry that lists butter as a main ingredient. Phyllo dough can also be purchased fresh at Middle Eastern markets.
STORE: In the freezer for up to a year. Thaw frozen phyllo dough overnight in the refrigerator, puff pastry at room temperature for about 30 minutes.
WHAT: Salt is a key ingredient in baked goods and desserts and comes in a variety of forms used in baking:
Table salt is inexpensive common white salt; it’s very fine grained and contains additives that help prevent it from clumping. Some bakers prefer this salt because its fine grains blend and dissolve easily in batters and dough. However, others avoid table salt because they feel it has a harsh, chemical flavor.
Kosher salt is coarse-grained salt that is free of additives and has a smoother flavor than table salt. If a recipe calls for kosher salt, don’t use table salt, as they are not interchangeable (table salt is far saltier).
Sea salt has a fresh, smooth flavor and is available in fine and coarse grains. The fine grains are used like table salt, and the coarse grains are often used as a “finishing salt,” sprinkled on food as a garnish just before serving. Some sea salts are rich in minerals, which gives them an off-white or gray color.
Fleur de sel (meaning “flower of salt” in French) is a sea salt that is hand-harvested off the coast of France. Because only the very top layer of salt is collected in a labor-intensive process, it is more expensive than table salt and kosher salt. It has large, damp grains and is available at specialty foods stores and natural foods stores. It is used only as a finishing salt.
USES: A small amount of salt heightens and intensifies flavors; without it, breads, cakes, and cookies taste flat and can fall short of dazzling. When using salt in batters, whisk it with the other dry ingredients to ensure that it is evenly dispersed. When beating egg whites for meringues, add the salt toward the end, since salt can make egg foams unstable.
FIND: Table salt and kosher salt are available in the baking aisle at the supermarket. Sea salt and fleur de sel can be found in some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.
STORE: Airtight in the cupboard indefinitely.
WHAT: Solid vegetable shortening is pure vegetable oil in a solid state. Bon Appétit recommends non-hydrogenated shortening, which is healthier because it contains no trans fats. Note that shortening is not the same thing as margarine, which usually contains water, whey, salt, and other ingredients. If a recipe calls for shortening, do not substitute margarine, as the added ingredients can alter the texture of the dessert.
USES: Solid vegetable shortening is often used in combination with butter in crusts. Because it’s more malleable than butter (which contains some milk solids), shortening makes the crust easier to work with and to roll out, preventing the dough from cracking and falling apart. It’s helpful to novice pie makers for that reason. And because it’s all fat, it helps make the crusts flaky. However shortening does not have any flavor, so it’s best used in combination with butter. To measure solid vegetable shortening accurately, pack it firmly into a measuring cup and level it off with a knife. Rinsing the measuring cup with cold water first will make it easier to scrape the shortening from the cup with a rubber spatula.
FIND: Non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening is available at supermarkets, specialty markets, and natural foods stores. It’s usually found in the aisle where vegetable oils and olive oils are sold; in some markets it’s in the baking aisle.
STORE: Technically shortening does not need refrigeration after opening, but since it’s usually used chilled for pie crusts, do keep it in the refrigerator. It will keep for at least a year, and will last even longer if stored in the freezer.
WHAT: Spices are aromatic seasonings derived from the bark, roots, seeds, buds, or berries of plants and trees. Allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg are among the most frequently used spices for desserts.
Allspice, a brown berry, is available whole or ground. It’s originally from tropical regions, including Jamaica, South America, and the West Indies, and tastes like a mixture of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper.
Cardamom is a small, pale green pod with small black seeds. It is sold as whole pods, seeds, and ground. Cardamom is native to India and frequently used in Southeast Asian cuisines, Middle Eastern cuisines, and Scandinavian breads and pastries. It has a warm, pungent aroma and flavor. The easiest way to remove the seeds from cardamom pods is to enclose the pods in a resealable plastic bag, then whack them a few times with a skillet, rolling pin, or meat mallet. Remove the husks from the bag, and keep whacking until the seeds are crushed as finely as you like.
Cinnamon, the bark of an evergreen tree indigenous to India and Sri Lanka, is sold both in stick form and as a ground powder. However, much of the cinnamon on the market in the United States is actually cassia (also the bark of an evergreen tree), which has a stronger flavor than genuine cinnamon. Sticks of the two types appear quite different. True cinnamon quills consist of paper-thin layers of bark rolled together. Cassia sticks are a single layer of thick, stiff bark. If you prefer the flavor of true cinnamon (some people like cassia’s more assertive character), look for jars labeled Ceylon cinnamon or plastic bags of Mexican cinnamon.
Cloves are the dried, unopened flower buds of a tropical evergreen tree. They’re sold whole or ground and have a very pungent flavor. A little goes a long way; using too much has a numbing effect and its flavor will overpower the dish.
Ginger is the knobby root of a tropical plant. It is most frequently used fresh, dried and ground, and crystallized (see page 10 for more information).
Nutmeg is an oval-shaped seed of a fruit native to East Indonesia. It is sold whole or ground, and has a warm, sweet flavor and aroma. Whole nutmeg can be grated with a Microplane grater or nutmeg grinder, and will have a much more intense flavor than purchased ground nutmeg.
USES: Ground spices are convenient to use, but their flavors deteriorate more quickly than whole spices. Toasting spices changes their flavor dramatically (consider how different a slice of bread tastes when toasted), so if a recipe calls for a spice to be toasted, don’t skip that step—you’ll be shortchanging the dish.
FIND: All of the spices listed here can be found in the spice aisle.
STORE: In tightly sealed canisters in a cool, dark cupboard; ground spices will keep for six months to a year; whole spices will keep about twice as long.
WHAT: Sugar is probably the first ingredient people think of when they think of desserts. It comes in a variety of forms, including the familiar granulated white sugar, powdered (or confectioners’) sugar, raw sugar, and light and dark brown sugar.
USES: Sugar plays various roles, depending on the kind of sugar being used.
Granulated sugar is highly refined from the juices of sugarcane or sugar beets. It is sold in cubes and in several different textures, from superfine—which dissolves easily, making it ideal for meringues and for sweetening drinks—to coarse, which is often colored and used as decoration.
Powdered sugar (also known as confectioners’ sugar) is white sugar that’s been ground into a fine powder and mixed with a small amount of cornstarch to help absorb moisture and prevent caking. If powdered sugar is excessively clumpy, sift it before measuring. Because it dissolves easily, it’s good for making icings, frostings, and whipped cream. It is frequently dusted over baked goods as a garnish.
Raw sugar is a coarse-grained sugar with a light amber color, sparkly appearance, and sweet flavor with notes of caramel. Turbinado sugar and demerara sugar are varieties of raw sugar. Raw sugar is partially refined, but unlike granulated sugar, it retains a bit of molasses residue. Since raw sugar has large sparkly grains, it is often used as a finishing sugar—it is especially pretty sprinkled on scones and pie crusts before baking—and can be substituted for white or brown sugar when used as a garnish. However, it is not always interchangeable with white and brown sugar in recipes that call for a particular sugar.
Brown sugar is white sugar mixed with molasses and comes in two main varieties: golden brown sugar, also called light brown sugar, and dark brown sugar, which has a stronger molasses flavor. When measuring brown sugar, always pack it firmly in the measuring cup, unless otherwise specified.
FIND: Granulated, powdered, and brown sugars are all sold in the baking aisle at the supermarket. Raw sugar is available in the baking section of many supermarkets and specialty foods stores.
STORE: In your cupboard or pantry. Brown sugar is a soft, moist sugar that hardens when exposed to air, so store it in an airtight container at room temperature. If it hardens, enclose it in an airtight container with a damp paper towel or wedge of apple on top and let it stand for a couple of days, or place it in a microwave-safe dish and cover with two damp paper towels, then microwave on high for about 30 seconds.
WHAT: A starchy thickener derived from the cassava plant.
USES: Thickens the fruit juices in cobblers, pies, crisps, and other desserts. Don’t use regular tapioca pearls, which are much larger and won’t soften and dissolve properly.
FIND: In the baking aisle.
STORE: Can be kept in a cool, dry place for two to three years.
WHAT: Vanilla adds a sweet perfume and underlying flavor to desserts. It comes in three forms:
Vanilla beans are actually long, thin, dried pods of a tropical orchid; Madagascar and Tahiti produce high-quality vanilla beans. Vanilla beans have an exotic flavor that is more complex than that of vanilla extract. The pods are usually split lengthwise with the point of a knife, exposing the fragrant tiny, black, sticky vanilla seeds (see page 38 for tips on doing this). Typically, the pods are then steeped in a hot liquid or the seeds are scraped out and added to the batters.
Vanilla extract is the most commonly used type of vanilla. Vanilla beans are chopped and soaked in an alcohol-water solution, which is then aged for several months. Vanilla extract has a deep brown color, a slightly syrupy consistency, and a rich perfume. Always use pure vanilla extract, as imitation vanilla is inferior in quality and taste. One teaspoon of vanilla extract can be substituted for a 2-inch piece of vanilla bean (or a 1-inch piece of Tahitian vanilla bean). For the best results, add vanilla extract to mixtures that are slightly cooled; heat weakens vanilla extract’s flavor.
Vanilla paste is a concentrated form of vanilla extract and includes the pretty flecks of fresh vanilla bean seeds. If you have it on hand, you can use it as a substitute for vanilla beans; 1 tablespoon of vanilla paste is the equivalent of one whole vanilla bean.
USES: Vanilla is extremely versatile and can stand alone in puddings, custards, sauces, ice cream, cakes, and cookies, or be paired with other intense flavors such as chocolate, coffee, and spices.
FIND: Vanilla beans are available in the spice aisle of most supermarkets and at natural foods stores and specialty foods stores. Look for pods that are plump, pliable, and slightly moist. Vanilla extract is in the spice aisle at the supermarket. Vanilla paste is available at specialty foods stores and online.
STORE: Wrap vanilla beans in plastic and store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to six months. Vanilla extract and vanilla paste keep indefinitely when stored airtight in a cool, dark place.
WHAT: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits add sophisticated flavor and aroma to desserts. The following wines, liqueurs, and spirits are used most often in this book.
FORTIFIED WINES
Fortified wines are those that have had brandy or another spirit added to them, either during or after the fermentation process. When the spirit is added during fermentation, it stops the fermentation and leaves more sugar in the wine, resulting in a sweet and strong product.
Port is a sweet, fortified wine. Available varieties include Porto, ruby Port, tawny Port, and vintage Port. Ruby is most frequently used in the recipes in this book; ruby Port has a darker red color and fruitier flavor than tawny Port.
Muscat is a sweet wine made from Muscat grapes; it can range in color from white to deep, rich pink, but most of the versions called for in this book will be white (pale gold). Muscat wines are made in many countries and go by different names, includin Beaumes-de-Venise, a type of fortified Muscat wine from the village of Beaumes-de-Venise, France; moscato, made in Italy; and Essensia, a brand of fortified sweet dessert wine made in California from perfumey Orange Muscat grapes.
Marsala is an Italian fortified wine. It is commonly available as sweet or fine (dry), and is typically used in tiramisù and zabaglione.
Madeira is a Portuguese fortified white wine with an amber color. It is similar to sherry and ranges from sweet to dry.
Sherry is a fortified wine. It ranges from dry (fino or manzanilla) to sweet (oloroso; cream, a kind of oloroso sherry; amoroso; or amontillado, which has a nutty flavor).
LIQUEURS
Liqueurs are sweetened alcoholic beverages made by adding sugar to distilled alcohol and flavoring it with fruit, nuts, herbs, or spices.
Grand Marnier is a Cognac-based liqueur with an orange flavor. Cointreau or other orange liqueurs can usually be substituted.
Amaretto is a liqueur, originally from Italy, with an almond flavor.
Chambord is a French liqueur with a black raspberry flavor and a deep ruby color.
Kahlúa is a Mexican liqueur with a rich roasted coffee flavor and a dark brown color.
Frangelico is a hazelnut-flavored liqueur with a pale golden color.
SPIRITS
Brandy is distilled from either wine or another fermented fruit juice. Armagnac is the limousine of brandies. It has more flavor and a smoother texture than any other brandy. Cognac makes the best substitute.
Eau-de-vie is a clear brandy or other spirit distilled from fermented wine or fruit juice. Kirsch (made from cherries), framboise (made from raspberries), and poire Williams (made from pears) are popular eaux-de-vies.
Rum is distilled from fermented sugarcane. It is available clear (or light), and dark. Most recipes in this book that use rum call for dark rum.
Whiskey is distilled from a mash of fermented grains such as corn, rye, and barley. Whisky from Scotland (spelled without an “e”) is called Scotch and is made from a mash of barley. Bourbon is an American whiskey made mostly from a mash of corn. Irish whiskey is made from barley and other grains.
USES: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be paired with other ingredients of similar flavor—amaretto with almonds, for example, or Grand Marnier with fresh oranges. Or they may provide the focal point of flavor for a dessert.
FIND: All of these wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be found at liquor stores or in the liquor aisle of supermarkets and specialty foods stores.
STORE: In a cool, dry place. Unopened, liqueurs can last indefinitely. Once opened, fortified wines should be used within a few weeks (buy half-bottles if you don’t think you’ll be able to use a whole bottle that quickly). Liqueurs can last up to three years once opened; distilled spirits up to two years.
WHAT: Dry yeast, also called active dry yeast, comes as dehydrated granules in small packets and jars. Dry yeast acts as the leavening (rising) agent in dough; when mixed with other ingredients, such as flour, water, and sugar, and allowed to sit in a warm place, yeast converts these ingredients into carbon dioxide and alcohol. The alcohol burns off while the carbon dioxide causes the dough to rise. Dry yeast is available as regular and quick-rising (also known as rapid-rise) yeast.
USES: To activate (or proof) yeast, combine it with a warm liquid (105°F to 115°F), as instructed in the recipe. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the temperature; never use a liquid that is too hot or too cold, as doing so can slow the yeast’s growth or even kill it. If the mixture doesn’t foam after 10 to 15 minutes, the yeast is not active, and you need to start again with a new package of yeast.
FIND: In the baking aisle.
STORE: In the refrigerator; use by the date indicated on the jar or packet.
