Updated by Kwynn Gonzalez-Pons
Nestled at the foot of the rugged Wasatch Mountains and extending to the south shore of the Great Salt Lake, Salt Lake City is a small, navigable city at the heart of a metropolitan area with more than 1 million residents. The Salt Lake valley has something for everyone, offering striking landscapes and accessible outdoor adventures that lure residents and visitors alike. Canyon breezes turn hot summer afternoons into enjoyable evenings, and snowy winter days are moderated with temperatures warmer than those at most ski destinations, making Salt Lake City an ideal destination year-round.
Salt Lake City’s history was built on the shoulders of its Mormon founders, but today its culture equally draws from more modern events and influences, such as hosting the 2002 Winter Olympics, and becoming the preeminent destination for technological or innovative pursuits, earning it the nickname “Silicon Slopes.” The city has emerged as the economic and cultural center of the vast Great Basin, between the Rocky Mountains and California’s Sierra Nevada.
Since Brigham Young led his first party of pioneers here in 1847, Salt Lake City has been synonymous with the Mormon Church, formally called the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS).
The valley appealed to Young because, at the time, it was under the control of Mexico rather than the U.S. government, which the Mormons believe was responsible for much of their persecution.
Within days, Young drew up plans for Salt Lake City, which was to be the hub of the Mormons’ promised land, a vast empire stretching from the Rockies to the Southern California coast. Although the area that eventually became the state of Utah was smaller than Young planned, Salt Lake City quickly outstripped his original vision. Missionaries throughout Scandinavia and the British Isles converted thousands, who flocked to the city to live near their church president—a living prophet, according to Mormon doctrine—and worship in the newly built temple.
In the 1860s, income from railroads and mines created a class of industrialists who built mansions near downtown and whose businesses brought thousands of workers—mainly from Europe and few of whom were Mormon—to Utah Territory. By the time Utah became a state in 1896, Salt Lake was a thriving city. Although the majority of the city was Mormon, it claimed a healthy mix of Protestant, Catholic, and Jewish citizens.
Today the city is an important center for business, medicine, education, and technology. The LDS Church’s presence is still evident, as both its headquarters and the Tabernacle, home to the world-famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir, call Temple Square home.
Downtown: The Mormon Church is centered here in a beautifully landscaped four-square-block compound known as Temple Square, but downtown visitors will also enjoy the massive new commercial and shopping complex, City Creek, a walkable plaza that’s home to restaurants, bars (yes, they have them here), theaters, and the Vivint Smart Home Arena. Bonus: attend Salt Lake City’s Downtown Farmers Market every Saturday morning at Pioneer Park from June to October.
Wasatch Front Mountains: Trade in your heels or high-tops for hiking boots and enjoy the canyons, replete with winding rivers and breathtaking landscapes.
Olympic Legacy: The “Light the Fire Within” theme of the 2002 Winter Games is still present nearly two decades later; they helped put Salt Lake City on the tourist map, and many locations still emit the excitement of the games.
Inland Sea: Explore the city’s namesake, the Great Salt Lake, by car, on foot, or by bicycle. If you’re here in the summer, take a float off the beaches at Antelope Island—the water is so salty it’s impossible to sink.
Pow-pow-powder: Experience the “greatest snow on earth” within an hour’s drive of the airport at one of seven impressive resorts.
Increased commitment to the arts from both the public and private sector gave way to a booming cultural scene. Sports fans won’t be disappointed as Salt Lake City is home to professional and amateur sports teams that provide family entertainment no matter the season. Particularly well-known are its two major-league franchises—basketball’s Utah Jazz and soccer’s Real Salt Lake, but an equally fervent crowd fills the bleachers for University of Utah and Brigham Young University athletics. Lesser known teams deserving credit include the Salt Lake Bee’s, the minor league off-shoot of the Los Angeles Angels, as well as the Flying Aces, a team of Olympic and National Team skiers that put on an incredible freestyle show just up the mountain range in Park City.
Near Salt Lake City, the Wasatch Mountains and Antelope Island have superb hiking, mountain biking, skiing, and wildlife watching. Park City has a rich mining history and world-class skiing resorts. Five national parks are within a half-day’s drive, and American history buffs enjoy well-preserved sections of the Pony Express Trail, the site of the Golden Spike railroad junction, and the Bonneville Salt Flats.
Salt Lake City proper is a modest sprawling city of about 194,000 people. Most visitors concentrate their time downtown (marked by the Mormon Temple, from which all addresses emanate), east side, and adjacent canyons and mountains. Locals live as far as 10 or 15 miles from the city’s walkable center, and suburbs have created an almost uninterrupted residential metropolis from Ogden (30 miles to the north) to Provo (40 miles south).
Temple Square. Temple Square is the hub of Mormonism, home to both the Salt Lake Temple and Tabernacle, but it’s also the cultural hub of this intermountain region, offering cultural experiences through museums and restaurants. An emphasis on green spaces by past and present city planners means you won’t experience the claustrophobia present in many big cities. Visitors can even expect to see “pop-up” parks: part-art installation, part-accessible green space.
Downtown Salt Lake. The heart of Salt Lake’s social, religious, and political institutions is within a few blocks of Temple Square, downtown, also home to the city’s best outdoor gathering places. The $1.5 billion City Creek Center opened in 2012, introducing high-profile shopping (an Apple store, Tiffany & Co., Nordstrom, and more) to an open-air setting and bringing the once-buried City Creek waters back to the surface. Gallivan Center hosts midday and evening concerts throughout the summer and an outdoor skating rink in winter, and City Creek Canyon offers walking, running, and biking trails in close proximity to hotels downtown. The main library, The City Library, marks the east end of downtown, offering visitors views of its breathtaking design and the city’s landscapes in one location.
Capitol Hill and the Avenues. Just a few blocks (and one significant hill) up from Temple Square is the state capitol, which was designed to resemble the nation’s Capitol in Washington, D.C., a symbol of Utah Territory’s loyalty as it emerged from its polygamous roots in the late 19th century. Surrounding the capitol on all sides are residential areas known for historic houses, hidden bistros, and the charm that makes this one of the most livable cities in America.
East Side and the University of Utah. Marked by a white U on the hillside is one of the leading centers of academia, research, and athletics in the West. Notable University distinctions include Distinguished Professor and Nobel Prize Winner, Dr. Mario Capecchi, and the 2008 Sugar Bowl champion football team. Many of the school’s faculty and staff commute from the east-side neighborhoods of Federal Heights, Harvard-Yale, and Sugarhouse, enjoying 80- to 100-year-old homes, massive trees, and thriving restaurants and boutiques.
Great Salt Lake. Salt Lake International Airport lies at the southern tip of Great Salt Lake, the remnants of the ancient Bonneville Lake that covered much of the northern half of Utah. With no place for the mountain stream-fed waters to go, the lake has a salinity level far higher than the Earth’s oceans, creating a unique water world that revolves around brine shrimp. Explore the lake through Great Salt Lake State Park, about 13 miles west of the airport, or journey by causeway to Antelope Island (where you’re more likely to encounter bison and birds than antelope), roughly 40 miles north of the airport.
Wasatch Front. The foothills of the Wasatch Range of the Rocky Mountains form the northern and eastern city limits. Several canyons bring water and cool breezes to the desert, and are the best way to enjoy the wilderness in summer. Trailheads for hikes can be reached from downtown via City Creek Canyon, on the east side in Emigration Canyon and Mill Creek Canyon, and near the city’s southern limits in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Four of the nation’s top ski resorts, Snowbird, Alta, Solitude, and Brighton, are a short drive up Big and Little Cottonwood, with a full range of summer and winter activities, including concert series, family movie nights, Alpine sledding, and, of course, skiing.
WHEN TO GO
Spring and fall are the best times to visit Salt Lake City, as cooler afternoons give way to idyllic breezy evenings. Summertime high temperatures average more than 90° (June–August), with a few days above 100° each month. Winters bring snow, but abundant sunshine melts it quickly in the valley. If your plans include trips to Park City or the Cottonwood Canyons, follow weather forecasts closely, because a fluffy 6-inch snowfall in the city will often be accompanied by 3 to 5 feet “up the hill.” Extreme heat or cold without any wind often brings about “inversions” of polluted air that sometimes linger for longer than a week and prompt red alert warnings against activity in the valley, especially for people who suffer from respiratory issues. The natives often escape to the mountains on these days to get some fresh air above the clouds. Most years, ski season kicks off by mid-November and ends in early April. (During a heavy snow year, Snowbird Ski Resort will stay open on weekends as late as July 4.) Expect heavier crowds at the airport and higher rates at hotels and resorts near the ski slopes on winter weekends, particularly around holidays such as Christmas, Martin Luther King Jr. Day, and Presidents’ Day, as well as around the Sundance Film Festival, held in nearby Park City. City accommodations are cheaper than in other major cities across the country much of the rest of the year, but occasional large conventions significantly affect tourist travel to Salt Lake City.
Utahns reserve much of their patriotism for July 24, rather than July 4, as it is a recognized statewide holiday known as Pioneer Day, celebrated with a parade, a marathon, and fireworks; expect road and business closures.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
Gallery Stroll. Mingle with local artists and view their work at various art galleries on the third Friday of the month (or the first Friday of December). Stop at any gallery on the stroll to obtain a self-guiding map. Artists and art lovers chat over wine and snacks at each stop. 
Salt Lake City 
801/870–0956 
www.gallerystroll.org 
Free.
Phillips Gallery. One of the many galleries on the Salt Lake Gallery Stroll, Phillips Gallery is a great place to start the stroll. View artworks of various mediums inside and enjoy sculptures on their rooftop. 444 E. 200 S, Downtown 801/364–8284.
Fodor’sChoice
Sundance Film Festival. Movie buffs and casual fans will find much to love about Robert Redford’s Sundance Film Festival. Each January, the crowds and the paparazzi tend to congregate in Park City, but savvy (and budget-conscious) moviegoers catch top picks in three venues in downtown Salt Lake City—the festival actually hosts events in three locations: Park City, Salt Lake City, and Sundance, Utah. With a focus on independent filmmakers, the festival has more than 100 screenings in Salt Lake City at the Tower Theatre, Broadway Center Theatre, and Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center. Ticket registration begins in September, but procrastinators can check for unsold day-of-show tickets at the Trolley Corners box office. Sundance Institute, 1825 Three Kings Dr., Park City 435/776–7878 www.sundance.org/festival.
Fodor’sChoice Utah Arts Festival. FAMILY If you’re in town on the fourth weekend in June, check out Salt Lake City’s premier art event: the Utah Arts Festival. You can’t miss this family-friendly event, which takes place over two full blocks downtown surrounding both Library and Washington squares. Browse original art at the Marketplace, create your own masterpiece at the Art Yard, treat your taste buds to a food truck-sponsored feast, and get down to live music on multiple stages. Library Square, 200 E. 400 S, Downtown 
Find Main Box Offices at the Library Arch Main Entrance, located midblock on 400 South between 200 East and 300 East 801/322–2428 www.uaf.org $6–$12.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
AIR TRAVEL
Locals say that Salt Lake City International Airport is closer to its downtown than any major airport in the country. It’s 7 miles northwest of downtown via I–80, or you can take North Temple, which leads to the city center. A taxi ride from the airport to town costs about $20. The Utah Transit Authority (UTA) opened an aboveground light-rail extension (TRAX green line) in 2013 that ferries riders to and from the airport in less than 30 minutes for $2.50 each way.
Air Information Salt Lake City International Airport. 776 N. Terminal Dr. 801/575–2400, 800/595–2442 toll-free line www.slcairport.com.
BUS AND RAIL TRAVEL
Finding your way around Salt Lake City is easy, largely because the city is laid out on an orthogonal grid. However, the city blocks are longer than in many other cities, so distances can be deceiving. Salt Lake has a very workable public transportation system. A Free Fare Zone for travel by bus covers a roughly 36-square-block area downtown and on Capitol Hill. A light-rail system, called TRAX, moves passengers quickly around the city and to the suburbs south of Salt Lake. There are 41 stations, originating from Salt Lake Central Station, where you can connect to FrontRunner (inter-county light rail), Amtrak, and buses. The Blue Line runs north–south from downtown to the suburb of Draper, serving the downtown landmarks (Temple Square, Vivint Smart Home Arena, Gallivan Center, Smith’s Ballpark—home of the AAA baseball team—Fashion Place Mall) and Rio Tinto Stadium (home of Real Salt Lake soccer) in Sandy. The Red line extends eastward to the University of Utah and southwest to the suburb of South Jordan. The Green line originates at the airport and loops into downtown before heading west to the suburb of West Valley. More than 20 stations have free park-and-ride lots. One-way tickets are $2.50 and can be purchased on the platform through vending machines. Two children under five can ride free with a paying adult. For $15, up to four people can buy a Group Pass, good for unlimited rides on buses and TRAX. For trips that begin on a bus, you must purchase the day pass at selected UTA Pass outlets. For trips beginning on TRAX, day passes must be purchased at a ticket vending machine.
Bus and Rail Information Utah Transit Authority (UTA). 801/743–3882, 888/743–3882 www.rideuta.com.
TAXI TRAVEL
Though taxi fares are low, cabs can be hard to find on the street so it’s best to call for one. Yellow Cab and City Cab provide 24-hour service throughout the Salt Lake Valley.
Taxi Contacts City Cab Company. 801/363–5550 www.citycabut.com. Yellow Cab. 801/521–2100 www.yellowcabutah.com.
TOURS
Most excursions run by City Sights include lunch at Brigham Young’s historic living quarters. The Utah Heritage Foundation offers the most authoritative tours of Salt Lake’s historic sights—the Kearns (Governor’s) Mansion, McCune Mansion, and Union Pacific Depot—and their regularly scheduled public tours are free. The Utah Heritage Foundation website has downloadable self-guided tours.
Tour Contacts City Sights (AKA Salt Lake City Tours). 801/364–3333 www.saltlakecitytours.org. Utah Heritage Foundation. 375 N. Canyon Rd., Temple Square 801/533–0858 www.utahheritagefoundation.com.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Pick up maps, ask questions, and otherwise plan your stay at the Salt Lake Convention and Visitors Bureau, on the east side of the downtown convention center, open daily 9–5.
Contacts Salt Lake Convention and Visitors Bureau. 90 S. West Temple, Downtown 801/534–4900, 800/541–4955 www.visitsaltlake.com. Utah Office of Tourism. 300 N. State St., Capitol Hill 800/200–1160 www.visitutah.com.
Start with a stroll around the city center, making sure to stop at the architecturally impressive Temple Square, the heart of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Within blocks, you’ll find museums, theaters, historic buildings, and shopping havens, including the Gateway and Center outdoor malls. Then, branch out into the surrounding neighborhoods to capture more of the flavor of the city.
When Mormon pioneer and leader Brigham Young first entered the Salt Lake Valley, he chose this spot at the mouth of City Creek Canyon for the headquarters of the Mormon Church, a role it maintains to this day. The buildings in Temple Square vary in age, from the Tabernacle constructed in the 1860s to the Conference Center constructed in 2000. Perhaps the most striking aspect of the Square is the attention to landscaping, which turns the heart of downtown Salt Lake City into a year-round oasis. The Church takes particular pride in its Christmas decorations, which make a nighttime downtown stroll, or horse-and-buggy ride, a must on December calendars.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
The Mormon Tabernacle. The Salt Lake City Tabernacle, also known as the Mormon Tabernacle, is home to the famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir and its impressive organ with 11,623 pipes. From Memorial Day through Labor Day, visitors can hear organ recitals Monday through Saturday at noon and 2 pm, and Sunday at 2 pm. The rest of the year, recitals are held Monday through Saturday at noon and Sunday at 2 pm. Visitors are also welcome Thursday from 7:30 pm to 9:30 pm to listen to the choir rehearse Sunday hymns, as well as from 9:30 am to 10 am as the choir performs for the world’s longest-running continuous network broadcast, Music and the Spoken Word. 50 N. West Temple, Temple Square 801/240–4872 www.lds.org/locations/temple-square-salt-lake-city-tabernacle?lang=eng&_r=1 Free.
Fodor’sChoice Salt Lake Temple. The centerpiece and spiritual capital of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, the Salt Lake Temple is a sacred pilgrimage destination for members of the faith. Brigham Young chose this spot for a temple as soon as he arrived in the Salt Lake Valley in 1847, but work on the building didn’t begin for another six years. Built of blocks of granite hauled by oxen and train from Little Cottonwood Canyon, the Mormon Temple took 40 years to the day to complete. Its walls are 16 feet thick at the base. Enjoy the serene fountains and pristine landscaping that decorates the Temple area. 50 N. West Temple, Temple Square 801/240–2640 www.lds.org/temples.
WORTH NOTING
Beehive House. Brigham Young’s home, a national historic landmark, was constructed in 1854 and is topped with a replica of a beehive, symbolizing industry. Inside are many original furnishings; a tour of the interior will give you a fascinating glimpse of upper-class 19th-century life. 67 E. South Temple, Temple Square 801/240–2681 www.lds.org/locations Free.
Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints Conference Center. Completed in 2000, this massive center features a 21,000-seat auditorium and an 850-seat theater. Equally impressive are the rooftop gardens landscaped with native plants and streams to mirror the surrounding mountains. Visitors can find flexible tour times that last roughly 45 minutes, but all guests must be accompanied by a guide. The Center is home to the biannual General Conference and regular concerts by the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. 
TIP → Groups are encouraged to call and schedule a tour. 60 W. North Temple, Temple Square 801/240–0075, 801/240–4931 group tours www.templesquare.com/explore Free.
Museum of Church History and Art. The museum houses a variety of artifacts and works of art relating to the history and doctrine of the Mormon faith, including personal belongings of church leaders Joseph Smith and Brigham Young. There are also samples of Mormon coins and scrip used as standard currency in Utah during the 1800s, and beautiful examples of quilting, embroidery, and other handicrafts. Upstairs galleries exhibit religious and secular works by Mormon artists from all over the world. 45 N. West Temple, Temple Square 801/240–3310 www.visitsaltlake.com Free 
Closed Sun.
Temple Square Visitors’ Center. The history of the Mormon Church and the Mormon pioneers’ trek to Utah is outlined in a North and South Visitor’s Center. Diligent missionaries stand by to offer tours and answer questions. Temple Sq. 801/240–4872 www.templesquare.com Free.
Although businesses and homes stretch in all directions, downtown’s core is a compact, six-block area that includes multiple hotels, restaurants, historic buildings, and entertainment venues.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Discovery Gateway Children’s Museum. FAMILY The region’s premier children’s museum has three floors of lively hands-on experiences. Kids can participate in a television newscast, tell stories through pictures or radio, climb into a Life Flight helicopter, or revel in a kid-size town with grocery store, vehicles, a house, and a construction site. Plan on spending about two hours here if you have children ages 2 through 10. 444 W. 100 S, Downtown 801/456–5437 www.discoverygateway.org Mon.–Sat. $10, Sun. $6.
Gateway Mall. FAMILY Just west of downtown Salt Lake, Gateway is an all-in-one family destination with shopping, dining, movie theaters, museums, and a music venue. In summer, cool off in the Olympic Legacy Plaza, a choreographed fountain that sprays pillars of water in sync with the 2002 Olympic theme and other inspiring songs. Gateway Mall is also a great winter destination offering activities for all ages, including The Clark Planetarium, Discovery Gateway children’s museum, the Depot (a live-music venue), and a 12-screen movie complex. 400 W. 100 S, Downtown 801/456–0000 www.shopthegateway.com.
Fodor’sChoice The Leonardo. FAMILY Salt Lake’s first museum devoted to the convergence of science, art, and technology opened in late 2011, and has since become a bucket-list item for any family visit to Salt Lake. While it hosts large-scale national touring exhibits like the Dead Sea Scrolls, this museum is quintessentially a hands-on museum dedicated to inspiring children to explore. Revolving artists-in-residence offer a variety of free programs in the lab space on the main floor, including sculpting with clay, drawing, designing, or writing. Volunteers in the Tinkering Garage help you build with repurposed household objects, deconstruct electronics, create electric circuits, and much more. 209 E. 500 S, Downtown 801/531–9800 www.theleonardo.org $9–$13.
Fodor’sChoice Salt Lake City Public Library. FAMILY Salt Lake City’s Main Library is a must see, offering panoramic views of mountain ranges from the rooftop and breathtaking architecture inside. It truly is a novel experience. 210 E. 400 S, Downtown 801/524–8200 www.slcpl.org Free.
WORTH NOTING
City and County Building. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the castle-like seat of city government was the city’s tallest building from its 1894 opening to 1973. On Washington Square, at the spot where the original Mormon settlers circled their wagons on their first night in the Salt Lake Valley, this building served as the state capitol for 19 years. Hundreds of trees, including species from around the world, and many winding paths and seating areas make the grounds a calm downtown oasis. In summer the grounds host major Salt Lake arts and music festivals. Free tours are given on Monday during the summer and by request outside the summer months through the Utah Heritage Foundation. 451 S. State St., Downtown 801/535–7280 www.visitsaltlake.com Free Closed weekends.
Clark Planetarium. FAMILY With an array of free hands-on exhibits and state-of-the-art 3-D and IMAX theaters, Clark Planetarium is an appealing, affordable family attraction. Traipse across a moonscape and learn about Utah’s contributions to spaceflight, but save a few minutes for the Planet Fun store. 110 S. 400 W, Downtown 385/468–7827 www.clarkplanetarium.org Exhibits free; movies $9.
Gallivan Center. FAMILY Newly renovated, the John W. Gallivan Center offers an amphitheater, updated ice rink, various art projects, and a grand copper-finish facility perfect for any special occasion. Food Truck Thursdays are a staple you won’t want to miss. Annual summer events include Craft Lake City, the Urban Arts Festival, and the Rock ‘N’ Ribs Festival. 239 S. Main St., Downtown 801/535–6110 www.thegallivancenter.com.
Union Pacific Building. This depot, built in 1909 at a cost of $300,000, is a striking monument to the importance of railroads in the settling of the West. The slate-shingle mansard roof sets a distinctive French Second Empire tone for the exterior. Inside, Western-theme murals and stained-glass windows create a setting rich with color and texture. The station has been restored and now functions as the entrance to the Gateway Mall and as a special-events venue. 400 W. South Temple, Downtown 801/456–0000 www.shopthegateway.com Free.
These neighborhoods overlook the city from the foothills north of downtown. Two days after entering the future Salt Lake City, Brigham Young brought his fellow religious leaders to the summit of the most prominent hill here, which he named Ensign Peak, to plan out their new home. New arrivals built sod homes into the hillside of what is now the Avenues. Two-room log cabins and adobe houses dotted the area. Meanwhile, on the western slope of the hill, fruit and nut trees were planted. Some still remain, as does a neighborhood known as Marmalade, with streets named Apricot, Quince, and Almond.
With the coming of the railroad came Victorian homes. The city’s rich and prominent families built mansions along South Temple. As the city has grown over the years, wealthy citizens have continued to live close to the city but farther up the hill where the views of the valley are better. Since the early 1970s the lower Avenues has seen an influx of residents interested in restoring the older homes, making this area a diverse and evolving community.
The state capitol, for which Capitol Hill is named, was completed in 1915. State offices flank the capitol on three sides. City Creek Canyon forms its eastern boundary. The Avenues denotes the larger neighborhood along the foothills, north of South Temple, extending from Capitol Hill east to the University of Utah. Getting around the Avenues is different from following the logic of the grid system of downtown. The Avenues increases in number as you head uphill, 1st Avenue being the beginning. From west to east, the streets are labeled alphabetically.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Cathedral of the Madeleine. Although the Mormon Temple just to the west is Salt Lake’s most prominent religious landmark, this cathedral stands high above the city’s north side and is a stunning house of worship in its own right. The exterior sports gargoyles, and its Gothic interior showcases bright frescoes, intricate wood carvings, and a 4,066-pipe organ. The highly regarded Madeleine children’s choir gives concerts regularly (especially during the Christmas season). The building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 331 E. South Temple, The Avenues 801/328–8941 www.utcotm.org Free.
Kearns Mansion. Built by silver-mining tycoon Thomas Kearns in 1902, this limestone structure—reminiscent of a French château with all its turrets and balconies—is now the official residence of Utah’s governor. In its early days the mansion was visited by President Theodore Roosevelt and other dignitaries from around the world. The mansion was faithfully restored after Christmas lights caused a fire in 1993 that destroyed much of the interior. Tours are offered June through August and December, by appointment only. Call 24 hours in advance. 603 E. South Temple, The Avenues 801/533–0858 www.utah.gov/governor/mansion Free.
Utah State Capitol. The State Capitol, built in 1912, hosts Utah’s legislature from January to March annually. The exterior steps offer marvelous views of the Salt Lake Valley. In the rotunda beneath the 165-foot-high dome, a series of murals, commissioned as part of a Works Progress Administration project during the Depression, depicts the state’s history. Don’t miss the gold-leafed State Reception Room, the original state supreme court, and the Senate gallery. Free guided tours are offered weekdays 9–5, on the hour, with the exception of holidays. 350 N. State St., Capitol Hill 801/538–1800 www.utahstatecapitol.utah.gov.
Hatch Family Chocolates. For a sweet treat, stop at Hatch Family Chocolates, a friendly candy- and ice-cream shop. Jerry Hatch uses his mother’s secret recipe for creamy caramel, and each piece of chocolate is hand-dipped and sold by weight. Chocolate turtles here can weigh a full quarter pound. Known for: hand-dipped chocolates; best hot chocolate in the city. 376 8th Ave., The Avenues 801/532–4912 www.hatchfamilychocolates.com Closed Sun.
Cucina Deli. Take a break from your tours with a picnic from this Italian deli specializing in gourmet lunches to eat in or take out. Bring your freshly packed lunch to Memory Grove or City Creek Canyon to relax and refuel amid beautiful surroundings. Known for: specialty sandwiches; Italian-inspired dishes. 1026 E. 2nd Ave., The Avenues 801/322–3055 www.cucinadeli.com.
WORTH NOTING
Memory Grove Park. Severely damaged by a freak tornado in 1999, Memory Grove was carefully restored as a city park with veterans’ monuments, beautiful landscaping, and the waters of City Creek. You can hike, jog, or bike on the paved road or dirt trails along City Creek Canyon . More trails take off from the road, including the 100-mile Bonneville Shoreline Trail. 300 N. Canyon Rd., Capitol Hill www.slcgov.com/cityparks.
Pioneer Memorial Museum. Covering the pioneer era from the departure of the Mormons from Nauvoo, Illinois, to the hammering of the Golden Spike, this massive collection traces the history of Mormon settlers in 38 rooms—plus a carriage house—on four floors. Administered by the Daughters of Utah Pioneers, its displays include clothing, furniture, tools, wagons, and carriages. Be careful with kids—this museum is as cluttered as a westbound covered wagon loaded with all of a family’s possessions. 300 N. Main St., Capitol Hill 801/532–6479 www.dupinternational.org Free Closed Sun.
On one of the shorelines of ancient Lake Bonneville, the University of Utah is the state’s largest higher-education institution and the oldest university west of the Mississippi. It is home to museums, the football stadium that was the site of the opening and closing ceremonies during the 2002 Winter Olympics, and a 15,000-seat indoor arena that played host to the 1979 NCAA basketball championship game, where Larry Bird faced off against Magic Johnson. The University Medical Center and its neighbor, Primary Children’s Medical Center, east of the campus, are active in medical training and research. Research Park, located south of campus, houses scores of private companies and portions of 30 academic departments in a cooperative enterprise to combine research and technology to produce marketable products.
As you leave the downtown and university area, hiking trails lead across the foothills above the university. The scenic Red Butte Garden and Arboretum is a great place to learn about plants that thrive in dry climates such as Utah’s. Since relocating to these foothills in 2011, the gleaming copper-colored Natural History Museum of Utah has become a must-visit destination. For living history, wander the boardwalks in This Is the Place Heritage Park, where volunteers don 19th-century costumes.
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Hogle Zoo. FAMILY This 42-acre zoo, nestled at the base of Emigration Canyon, has been a delightful half-day destination for families since 1931. Asian Highlands showcases big cats in natural surroundings; Rocky Shores includes underwater viewing of polar bears, sea lions, seals, and otters; and Elephant Encounter has elephants and white rhinos in a simulated African plain. In between you’ll find many exhibits with species native to the West, including wolves and bison. A children’s zoo, interactive exhibits, and special presentations make visits informative and engaging for both adults and children. Just for fun is the Lighthouse Point Splash Zone, with a tube slide, the Zoo Train, and a carousel. 2600 E. Sunnyside Ave., East Side 801/584–1700 www.hoglezoo.org $17 summer, $15 winter.
Fodor’sChoice Natural History Museum of Utah. FAMILY Stop and admire its copper and granite form before stepping inside to learn about the formation of the region’s incredible landscape of parks, mountain ranges, lakes, and basins. Immerse yourself in prehistoric Utah, home to prolific research on dinosaurs and some of the most famous fossil recoveries in history. Since its opening in 2011, children and adults alike have counted this as an unforgettable highlight of any Salt Lake City visit. 301 Wakara Way, University of Utah 801/581–6927 www.nhmu.utah.edu $10–$15.
Olympic Cauldron Park. Relive the 2002 Olympics through photographs, memorabilia, and a 10-minute film. Step outside to stand beneath the Olympic Torch (which is lit for special events), and Hoberman Arch, the backdrop for medal ceremonies that year. 451 S. 1400 E, University of Utah 801/581–5445 stadium.utah.edu Free.
Fodor’sChoice Red Butte Garden and Arboretum. FAMILY With more than 100 acres of gardens and undeveloped acres, the grounds here provide many enjoyable hours of strolling. Of special interest are the Perennial, Fragrance, and Medicinal gardens, the Daylily Collection, the Water Pavilion, and the Children’s Garden. Lectures on everything from bugs to gardening in arid climates, workshops, and concerts are presented regularly. The popular Summer Concert Series attracts well-known musicians from Tony Bennett to Vampire Weekend. The pristine amphitheater seats approximately 3,000 people on its expansive lawn. The Botanic Gift Shop offers books, soaps, sculptures, and fine gifts. 300 Wakara Way, University of Utah 801/581–0556 www.redbuttegarden.org $12.
WORTH NOTING
Liberty Park. FAMILY Salt Lake’s oldest park, Liberty Park features numerous amenities, including the Tracy Aviary, the Chase Home Museum, several playgrounds, a large pond, a swimming pool, and a tennis complex on its eight square city blocks. Weekly farmers’ markets on Friday night and the city’s biggest Pioneer Day celebration (July 24) mark a busy summer schedule annually. Make a wish and toss a coin into Seven Canyons Fountain, a symbol of the seven major canyons of the Wasatch Front. 600 E. 900 S, East Side www.slcgov.com/cityparks.
Sugar House Business District. Utah pioneers tried to produce sugar out of beets at a mill here, and although sugar never made it to their tables, it is a sweet place to find eclectic shops and hip restaurants. The Sprague Library (2131 S. 1100 E), chosen as America’s most beautiful library in 1935, is a historic Tudor-style building. Pick up picnic food and head for tiny Hidden Hollow Park, or cross 1300 East to the expansive Sugar House Park. View the city’s most spectacular fireworks and arts festival every July 4. 2100 S from 700 E to 1300 E, East Side.
Sugar House Park. Rolling grassy hills, athletic fields, multiple playgrounds, a creek, and a pond provide plenty of room to fly a kite or have a picnic at Sugar House Park. Take in stunning mountain views or head to the hill on the south end of the park—a go-to destination for sledding in winter. The park was once a federal prison famous for incarcerating Utah’s polygamists. 1330 E. 2100 S, East Side www.sugarhousepark.org.
This Is the Place Heritage Park. FAMILY On July 24, 1847, Brigham Young famously declared that this was the place for the Latter-day Saints to end their cross-country trek. A 60-foot-tall statue of Young, Heber Kimball, and Wilbur Woodruff stands prominently in the park, which includes Heritage Village, a re-created 19th-century community and visitor center. In summer volunteers dressed in period clothing demonstrate what Mormon pioneer life was like. 2601 E. Sunnyside Ave., East Side 801/582–1847 www.thisistheplace.org Village: Mon.–Sat. $13, Sun. $7. Monument: free.
Tracy Aviary. FAMILY The Tracy Aviary is a prime example of family-friendly fun in Salt Lake City. Easily walkable for even the smallest kids, this facility features more than 100 species of birds found on the Western Hemispheric Flyway, a migratory pattern that includes Great Salt Lake. You will see emus, bald eagles, flamingos, parrots, several types of waterfowl, and maybe even a wandering peacock. There are bird shows and educational activities daily. 589 E. 1300 S, East Side 801/596–8500 www.tracyaviary.org $8–$12.
Trolley Square. From 1908 to 1945 this sprawling redbrick structure held nearly 150 trolleys and electric trains for the Utah Light and Railway Company. As trolleys fell out of use, the facility was closed. In the early 1970s the mission-style edifice was completely overhauled. Today it’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places and houses a Whole Foods Market and lululemon in addition to dozens of boutiques and restaurants. 602 S. 700 E, East Side 801/521–9877 www.trolleysquare.com.
Utah Museum of Fine Arts. Spanning 74,000 square feet and offering more than 20 galleries, you’ll be glad this modern facility has a café and a sculpture court to rest in-between exhibits. In addition to their vast permanent collection of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman relics, Italian Renaissance and other European paintings, and Chinese ceramics and scrolls, special exhibits are mounted regularly. 410 S. Campus Dr., University of Utah 801/581–7332 www.umfa.utah.edu $10–$13 Closed Mon.
A visit to Utah is not complete without a trip to the Great Salt Lake.
EXPLORING
Great Salt Lake State Park. FAMILY The Great Salt Lake is eight times saltier than the ocean and second only to the Dead Sea in salinity. What makes it so briny? There’s no outlet to the ocean, so salts and other minerals carried by rivers and streams become concentrated in this enormous evaporation pond. Ready access to this wonder is possible at Great Salt Lake State Park, 16 miles west of Salt Lake City, on the lake’s south shore. A pavilion, souvenir shop, and dance floor honor the park’s glory days when ballroom dancing and the lake brought thousands of visitors to its shores. The picnic beaches on Antelope Island State Park are the best places to float. If you can’t take the time to get to Antelope Island, which is 25 miles north of Salt Lake City, you can walk down the boat ramp at the Great Salt Lake State Marina. You can also rent boats and stand-up paddleboards here. Shower off at the marina. 13312 W. 1075 S, Magna 2 miles east of I–80 Exit 104 801/828–0787 www.utah.com $3 per vehicle.
Salt Lake City is a gateway to the excellent ski resorts strung along the Wasatch Range. There are also a handful of top-shelf golf courses. In town you can readily bicycle or jog along the wide streets and through the many parks.
TICKETS
Smith’s Tix. Tickets to sporting events and concerts are available here. Salt Lake City 801/467–8499, 800/888–8499 www.smithstix.com.
Ticketmaster. Tickets here are primarily for music and sporting events at the Maverik Center in nearby West Valley City. West Valley City www.ticketmaster.com.
Salt Lake Bees. FAMILY Games are played in Smith’s Ballpark; the backdrop of the Wasatch Mountains makes it one of the most picturesque baseball stadiums in America. Games run April through August offering fan-friendly, family fun. 77 W. 1300 S, Downtown 801/325–2337 www.slbees.com Ticket prices start at $8 per person.
THE LEGENDARY GREAT SALT LAKE
Legends of an enormous body of water with an outlet to the Pacific Ocean drew explorers north from Mexico as early as the 1500s. By the 1700s, other legends—about piles of gold and mines full of jewels—had been proven false by Spanish explorers, but the lake legend endured. Following a source of water through the West’s harsh desert, and traveling along a flat riverbank instead of struggling over mountains, would make trade easier between New Mexico and the settlements springing up along California’s coast. Perhaps goods could be shipped to the coast rather than hauled by mules, a trip the Spanish (correctly) predicted would take months.
Franciscan fathers Francisco Atanasio Dominguez and Francisco Silvestre Velez de Escalante came close to finding Great Salt Lake in 1776, but they cut through the Wasatch Mountains too far to the south. They did blaze a major trade route through Utah, but there is no record of any travelers wandering far enough off the route to see the lake of legend. In 1804–05 Lewis and Clark searched for a water route to the West Coast, but their focus on the Columbia River gave them no reason to travel south of Idaho. They, too, missed the lake.
Mountain men had heard of the lake. Legend has it that an argument about the lake broke out at the alcohol-soaked 1824 rendezvous in northern Utah—the trappers couldn’t agree whether the nearby Bear River flowed into the lake. Jim Bridger was chosen to settle the argument, some say because he was the youngest. For whatever reason, he was set adrift on the Bear River in a rickety bull boat and told to report his findings at a future rendezvous—if he survived.
Jim Bridger did survive, and he was able to report that Bear River did flow into Great Salt Lake. However, his travels and those of fellow mountain man Jedediah Smith indicated that the lake was landlocked. Plus it was no good for drinking. Even worse, the explorers found that travel around the lake was hampered by vast expanses of marshland, a muddy shoreline, and hundreds of square miles of salt flats that looked solid but were often little more than a thin crust over layers of muck.
With dreams of a freshwater oasis and an easy route to the coast crushed, the legend of the lake changed. The lake became a place where monsters lurked in the water, giants rode elephant-like creatures on the islands, and the bottom periodically opened, swallowing everything nearby. The area became a place to avoid, or to pass by quickly, until 1847, when Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers crossed the plains to settle on its shore.
Utah Jazz. Salt Lake’s NBA team plays at the Vivint Smart Home Arena. Basketball buffs, check out the statues of Hall of Famers John Stockton and Karl Malone outside. Vivint Smart Home Arena, 301 W. South Temple, Downtown 801/325–2500 www.nba.com/jazz Some tickets as low as $13 per person.
Bingham Cyclery. Bingham Cyclery operates four popular shops around the state, including one in downtown Salt Lake City across the street from Pioneer Park. The friendly staff sells and rents bikes or will tune up the one you already have. Other branches are in Ogden, Sunset, and Sandy. 336 W. Broadway, Downtown 801/583–1940 www.binghamcyclery.com/home.
Fodor’sChoice City Creek Canyon. Salt Lake City has fully integrated bicycles into its urban planning, and cyclists will love the 4-foot-wide bike lanes painted green on several downtown thoroughfares. Within minutes, road and mountain bikers alike can find all levels of challenge on roads and trails. A favorite is City Creek Canyon, east of the capitol, where cyclists can ride on odd-number days from Memorial Day through Labor Day, and every day between Labor Day and Memorial Day, when the road is closed to vehicles. Liberty Park and Sugar House Park also have good cycling and running paths. Salt Lake City 801/535–6630 www.bikeslc.com/wheretoride/multi-usepavedtrails/citycreekmemorygrove.html.
Fodor’sChoice Contender Bicycles. The store that vows to “make every bike a dream bike” is a must-visit for cyclists. The shop, which offers services and sales, has grown up like the trendy 9th & 9th neighborhood it anchors. You might catch Tour de France veterans Levi Leipheimer or Dave Zabriskie stopping by to chat or ride with this shop’s competitive team. 989 E. 900 S, Downtown 801/364–0344 www.contenderbicycles.com Closed Sun.
One legacy of the Salt Lake Olympics is the ZAP tax (that has since been renewed) to fund zoos, arts, and parks. As a result, some of the finest public facilities in the country are here.
Acord Ice Center. Built as a practice venue for the 2002 Winter Olympics, the rink hosts hockey, figure skating, and public skating. Call for public ice-skating times. 5353 W. 3100 S, West Valley City 385/468–1965 slco.org/acord-ice.
Cottonwood Heights Recreation Center. FAMILY Swim, jog, lift weights, play tennis, ice-skate, and much more at the Cottonwood Heights Recreation Center. 7500 S. 2700 E, Cottonwood Heights 801/943–3190 www.cottonwoodheights.com.
Fodor’sChoice Salt Lake City Sports Complex. With skating rinks, fitness equipment, and Olympic-size pools, this recreational complex is a year-round magnet for active families and individuals. 645 S. 1580 E. Guardsman Way, University of Utah 385/468–1925 slco.org/sports-complex.
Fodor’sChoice Utah Olympic Oval. The stunning venue was built for the 2002 Winter Olympics and is the home of the U.S. speed skating team. Watch the world’s best skaters in major competitions every winter. It’s open to the public year-round for myriad activities, including skating, curling, and running on the 442-meter indoor track. 5662 S. Cougar La., Kearns 801/968–6825 utaholympiclegacy.org/oval.
Most neighborhoods have a small park, usually with a children’s playground.
Liberty Park. FAMILY Liberty Park is a local favorite running spot (it’s about 1½ miles per lap on the jogging path), and also features tennis courts, an aviary, a swimming pool, picnic areas, a restaurant, and children’s playgrounds. 600 E. 900 S, East Side www.slcgov.com/cityparks.
Sugar House Park. FAMILY This is a favorite hangout spot for residents and visitors. Enjoy the open space where you can jog, ride a bicycle, fly a kite, enjoy a picnic, or soak up some rays. Feed the ducks in the large pond or skip rocks in the creek in the summer, or join dozens of sledders on its hills in winter. 1330 2100 S, East Side www.sugarhousepark.org.
Sports Den. A four-season store, Sports Den can handle any ski, snowboard, and snowshoeing need—as well as bicycles, golf, swimming, and summer gear. 1350 S. Foothill Dr., East Side 801/582–5611 www.sportsden.com.
Utah Ski & Golf. Discounted lift tickets, advance equipment, and clothing rental reservations are available at Utah Ski & Golf’s multiple downtown locations and in Park City, with free shuttle service from downtown hotels to their stores. 134 W. 600 S, Downtown 801/355–9088 www.utahskigolf.com.
Real Salt Lake. Since 2005, Real Salt Lake has competed in Major League Soccer. The gleaming $100 million Rio Tinto Stadium also hosts concerts and other events. 9256 S. State St., Sandy 801/727–2700 www.rsl.com.
The 2002 Winter Olympics cast Salt Lake City in a new, contemporary, more diverse light. Visitors discovered a panoply of cultural influences, brewpubs, ethnic flavors, and progressive chefs. Salt Lake City may not have the depth of restaurants seen in other big cities, but there are a couple of outstanding choices for nearly every budget and cuisine. Restaurants like Lamb’s Grill Café, Hire’s Big H, and Ruth’s Diner trace their roots back five-plus decades, and their colorful proprietors are more than willing to share the history they’ve witnessed from their kitchens. Returning LDS missionaries have brought back their favorite flavors from Asia, Europe, and Latin America, with impressive results. Seafood, Japanese, Tibetan, Indian, Spanish, and Italian are all suitably showcased in Salt Lake eateries, and when all else fails, there are great burgers and Rocky Mountain cuisine, a fusion inspired by frontier big game, seafood fresh from the great Pacific ports, and organic produce grown in Utah’s fertile valleys. You’ll also find creative wine lists and knowledgeable service. Bakers and pastry chefs defy the 4,400-foot altitude with rustic sourdoughs and luscious berry-filled treats. Multiple weekly summer farmers’ markets are thriving, and chefs are building more and more of a food community.
Use the coordinates ( A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.
Bambara. $$$$ AMERICAN Seasonal menus reflect regional American and international influences at this artfully designed destination restaurant. The setting, formerly an ornate bank lobby adjacent to swanky Hotel Monaco, is as much of a draw as the food. Known for: Scottish salmon; seared Alaskan halibut; steak frites. 
Average main: $36 202 S. Main St., Downtown 801/363–5454 www.bambara-slc.com C5.
The Bayou. $$ AMERICAN You’ll find more than 200 microbrews, both bottled and on tap, at chef-owner Mark Alston’s lively, often crowded bar and restaurant. The menu offers everything from Cajun specialties such as gumbolaya (jambalaya smothered in gumbo) and étouffée to blackened seafood and a terrific garlicky hamburger with sweet-potato fries. Known for: alligator cheesecake; gumbolaya; bayou pizza. Average main: $13 645 S. State St., Downtown 801/961–8400 www.utahbayou.com No lunch on weekends F3.
Fodor’sChoice The Copper Onion. $$$ MODERN AMERICAN Chef Ryan Lowder dazzles with the basics—artful salads, small plates, and charcuterie—and then overwhelms with mouthwatering locally sourced dishes, from Cast Iron Mary’s Chicken to rainbow trout. The youthful Lowder studied at the Culinary Institute of America and apprenticed at Jean-Georges and with Mario Batali before bringing his own brand of sophisticated American cuisine to his hometown. Known for: house-made pastas; upscale Italian plates. Average main: $23 111 E. Broadway, Downtown 801/355–3282 thecopperonion.com F2.
Este Pizzeria SLC. $$ PIZZA FAMILY At this New York–style pizzeria, try specials like Grandma Phi Phi’s pie with marinara, mozzarella, and basil, or the Italian Flag pizza with marinara sauce, pesto, and ricotta sauce stripes. Vegans and gluten-free diners will also have plenty of options—and anyone with a sweet tooth will fall for zeppole (an Italian doughnut) and cream-filled cannoli. Known for: New York–style pizza; vegan and gluten-free options; zeppole. Average main: $14 156 E. 200 S, Downtown 801/363–2366 www.estepizzaco.com F2.
Hong Kong Tea House. $ CHINESE At lunch, ask for a dim sum menu and mark your choices, or wait until servers walk by with small dishes or bamboo baskets of Cantonese-style classics, from steamed pork buns to crunchy chicken feet. Dinner menus are more formal, with traditional Peking duck, spicy Szechuan-style chicken with green beans, and other authentic regional Chinese favorites. Known for: dim sum; steamed sea bass. Average main: $12 565 W. 200 S, Downtown 801/531–7010 hongkongteahouse.com Closed Mon. A5.
La-Cai Noodle House. $ VIETNAMESE Named for a historic restaurant district in Ho Chi Minh City, this place re-creates the cuisine of southern Vietnam. The menu ranges from traditional basics such as pho to unique entrées like walnut shrimp in a creamy white sauce, salt-baked calamari, and fondues. Known for: pho; large portions; Vietnamese cuisine. Average main: $10 961 S. State St., Downtown 801/322–3590 www.lacainoodlehouse.com Closed Sun. F3.
Market Street Grill. $$$ SEAFOOD This beautifully restored 1906 building is a popular breakfast, lunch, and dinner destination, where the selections range from daily fresh fish and seafood entrées to certified Angus beef. Portions are large, and include all the side dishes. Known for: delicious seafood entrées; historic setting. Average main: $28 48 W. 340 S Market St., Downtown 801/322–4668 www.marketstreetgrill.com C5.
Market Street Oyster Bar. $$$ SEAFOOD Popular items include oysters prepared a half-dozen ways, clam chowder, crab and shrimp cocktails, and more expensive seafood entrées. The decor features original hand-painted pillars, rounded booths that face the action, and televisions on at all hours. Known for: oysters; seafood entrées. Average main: $26 54 W. Market St., Downtown 801/531–6044 marketstreetgrill.com C5.
New Yorker. $$$$ STEAKHOUSE This subterranean location houses a clubby bar, café, and restaurant that exudes class with its modern continental menu, starched white tablecloths, stained-glass ceilings, and rounded banquette seating. If you’re looking to celebrate a special occassion, promotion, or just wanting to treat yourself, spring for the filet mignon. Known for: filet mignon; crème brûlée; wine selection. Average main: $35 60 W. 340 S Market St., Downtown 801/363–0166 newyorkerslc.com Closed Sun. C6.
Oasis Café. $$ ECLECTIC From morning to well into the evening, a selection of fine teas and espresso drinks, big breakfasts, and fresh, innovative entrées draw regulars to this café and its serene patio courtyard. The menu leans toward vegetarian and seafood selections, and there are plenty of gluten-free options in addition to rich house-made pastries. Known for: seafood; vegetarian offerings. Average main: $18 151 S. 500 E, Downtown 801/322–0404 oasiscafeslc.com F2.
Fodor’sChoice Red Iguana. $$ MEXICAN Visitors seeking south-of-the-border cuisine need to look no further than Salt Lake’s Zagat-rated Red Iguana. This crown jewel doesn’t look like much, and it’s off the beaten track, but it features accommodating staff and incomparable house-made moles and chile verde. Known for: moles; chile verde; guacamole. Average main: $16 736 W. North Temple, Downtown 801/322–1489 www.rediguana.com E2.
Red Rock Brewing Company. $$ AMERICAN Visitors looking for a chill atmosphere with unique ales will enjoy this contemporary brewpub. Hungry? Known for: beer selection; fish-and-chips; on-site brewery. Average main: $14 254 S. 200 W, Downtown 801/521–7446 www.redrockbrewing.com B5.
Salt Lake Roasting Company. $ CAFÉ Since 1981 the Roasting Company has sourced, bought, imported, roasted, and sold dozens of varieties of coffees. Great pastries, desserts, light entrées, complimentary (although sometimes spotty) Wi-Fi, and friendly, knowledgeable staff make this a Salt Lake institution. Known for: coffee; pastries. Average main: $8 820 E. 400 S, Downtown 801/363–7572 www.roasting.com Closed Sun. F3.
Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana. $$ PIZZA Two ambitious restaurateurs set out to re-create authentic ultrathin pizza from Naples using an oven, flour, cheese, and other ingredients shipped from the Old Country. Settebello’s pies hold their own and might even be the best thin-crust pizza anywhere outside of Italy. Known for: ultrathin pizza; authentic Italian ingredients. Average main: $15 260 S. 200 W, Downtown 801/322–3556 www.settebello.net B5.
Squatters Pub Brewery. $$ AMERICAN This casual, high-energy brewpub located in the 1906 Boston Hotel building is a happening spot for Sunday brunch. Featuring plenty of organic and locally sourced ingredients, the menu veers from locally made bratwurst to curry specials, fish tacos, and big, juicy buffalo burgers. Known for: Sunday brunch; house-made beer selection. Average main: $14 147 W. 300 S Broadway, Downtown 801/363–2739 www.squatters.com B5.
Stoneground Kitchen. $$ ITALIAN On the top floor of a glass-fronted building across the street from Salt Lake City’s main public library, this is a casual hangout with New York–style pizza and “Grandma’s” pasta dishes. The menu offers above-average pub food and pizzas at reasonable prices. Known for: thin-crust pizza; homemade pastas. Average main: $15 249 E. 400 S, Downtown 801/364–1368 www.stonegroundslc.com No lunch weekends F2.
Takashi. $$$ JAPANESE One of Salt Lake’s most popular Japanese restaurants, it is hip and lively, and has the city’s finest sushi, including uni nigiri (sea-urchin sushi) that defines melt-in-your-mouth. Owner-chef Takashi Gibo can be seen behind the sushi bar on any given day. Known for: sushi; uni nigiri; calamari. Average main: $24 18 W. Market St., Downtown 801/519–9595 Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. C6.
Fodor’sChoice Tony Caputo’s Market and Deli. $ ITALIAN FAMILY Patrons line up at the door for sandwiches at this stocked-to-the-rafters Italian deli and market. Whether you fancy buffalo mozzarella with basil and fresh tomatoes, salami with roasted red peppers, or a daily special such as lasagna, it’s a great value in a no-frills eatery. Known for: cheese flights; gourmet Italian sandwiches; busy on Saturday. Average main: $8 314 W. 300 S, Downtown 801/531–8669 caputos.com B5.
Cucina Deli. $ ITALIAN Locals flock to this neighborhood café and take-away food market for the creative salads and colorful entrées. Also on the menu are house-made soups, generous deli sandwiches, and hot entrées such as meat loaf and mashed potatoes. Known for: salads; deli sandwiches. Average main: $10 1026 E. 2nd Ave., The Avenues 801/322–3055 www.cucinadeli.com G2.
Em’s Restaurant. $$ ECLECTIC Fresh, flavorful, creative, and artsy—chef Emily Gassmann’s small café combines it all in a renovated brick storefront in the Marmalade District, west of the capitol. The café has an urban feel with its modern art and polished wood floors. Known for: savory crepes; vegetarian entrées; Sunday brunch. Average main: $19 271 N. Center St., Capitol Hill 801/596–0566 www.emsrestaurant.com Closed Mon. and Tues. E2.
Bombay House. $$ INDIAN You’re enveloped in exotic aromas the minute you step into this dark, intimate restaurant. Enjoy good Indian standards, including the softest naan and the spiciest of curries, tandoori dishes, and lots of vegetarian options. Known for: attentive service; traditional Indian specialties; long meal times. Average main: $13 2731 E. Parleys Way, East Side 801/581–0222 www.bombayhouse.com Closed Sun. H5.
Café Trio Downtown. $$ ITALIAN Start with a selection of cheeses and flatbreads to tempt your appetite, but save room for balsamic-drizzled pizzas, hearty baked pastas, and wood-roasted salmon, all of which vie for attention at this constantly busy Italian eatery. Owner Mikel Trapp has created a comfortable modern dining room with clean lines and sharp staff. Known for: gourmet pizza and pasta; delicious crème brûlée; brunch. Average main: $16 680 S. 900 E, East Side 801/533–8746 www.triodining.com F3.
Desert Edge Brewery. $ AMERICAN For more than 40 years, this lively microbrewery inside Trolley Square has offered delicious pub food, house-made beer, loft seating, a sheltered patio, and lots of music and noise. It also offers a great view of the sunset through floor-to-ceiling windows. Known for: french onion soup; delicious nachos; Reuben sandwich. Average main: $10 Trolley Square, 551 S. 600 E, East Side 801/521–8917 www.desertedgebrewery.com F3.
Fodor’sChoice Hires Big H. $ BURGER FAMILY Hires Big H elevates traditional diner favorites by incorporating fresh, local products prepared in-house. If you’re nostalgic for good food with a vintage vibe, look no further than Utah’s “Gathering Place.” Roll down the car window and place your order at a burger joint that offers a menu, service, and groove that haven’t changed much since its 1959 opening. Known for: car-side service; frosted root beer mugs; fry sauce. Average main: $8 425 S. 700 E, East Side 801/364–4582 www.hiresbigh.com Closed Sun. F3.
Fodor’sChoice Lucky 13 Bar and Grill. $ BURGER There is no better place in the valley to order a monstrous burger (with house-made ingredients, including fresh buns) and wash it down with a beer or a shot of whiskey. One of the few places in Salt Lake City that does not allow kids under 21, Lucky 13 is across the street from Smith’s Ballpark, home to the Salt Lake Bees, the Triple A team for the Los Angeles Angels. Known for: signature burgers; house-made ingredients; whiskey from High West distillery. Average main: $11 135 W. 1300 S, Downtown 801/487–4418 www.lucky13slc.com E3.
Mazza Middle Eastern Cuisine. $$ MIDDLE EASTERN Consistently voted the city’s best Middle Eastern restaurant, Mazza is all about authentic and affordable fare in a casual setting. You can’t go wrong with traditional dishes like falafel, stuffed vine leaves, and kebabs, but explore baked kafta, chicken and cauliflower kabseh, and musakhan to truly indulge your taste buds. Known for: honey-drenched baklava; stuffed vine leaves; tasty falafel. Average main: $15 912 E. 900 S, East Side 801/521–4572 www.mazzacafe.com Closed Sun. G3.
Pago. $$$ MODERN AMERICAN Pago more than lives up to its promise of farm-to-table freshness in a microscopic neighborhood bistro, putting their food forward with big-city ambition and tastes. The chef-driven restaurant capitalizes on local artisan farmers, with big and small plates anchored around simple ingredients like radishes, beets, or mountain stream trout. Known for: farm-to-table; fresh ingredients; excellent service. Average main: $25 878 S. 900 E, East Side 801/532–0777 www.pagoslc.com No lunch weekdays. Closed 2:30–5 pm weekends F3.
Fodor’sChoice Ruth’s Diner. $ AMERICAN FAMILY Families love the gussied-up old railcar that serves as Ruth’s dining room and the city’s best creek-side patio in the city—you just have to navigate your way up gorgeous Emigration Canyon to find it. Breakfast (served until 4 pm) has been the diner’s trademark since 1930, and starts with 3-inch-high biscuits followed by massive omelets like the King of Hearts (artichokes, garlic, mushrooms, and two cheeses). Known for: mile-high biscuits; Thursday night barbecue in summer; long wait times. Average main: $12 4160 Emigration Canyon Rd., East Side 801/582–5807 H3.
Fodor’sChoice Layla Grill and Mezze. $$ MEDITERRANEAN Venture a few miles from downtown to find the Tadros family’s Mediterranean restaurant that features savory dishes in a crisp, contemporary dining space. Tangy spices enliven old-world favorites such as shawarma and moussaka, and not-so-common dishes like muhamarra (think hummus but with walnuts) tempt you away from your comfort zone. Known for: signature fries; Lebanese-influenced cocktails; both unique and standard Mediterranean dishes. Average main: $15 4751 S. Holladay Blvd., Cottonwood 801/272–9111 www.laylagrill.com G6.
Fodor’sChoice Log Haven. $$$ AMERICAN This elegant mountain retreat brings inventive takes on American cuisine by incorporating Asian ingredients with a Rocky Mountain style. It excels with fresh fish, game, and seasonal local ingredients, creating dishes likes rabbit with white-corn polenta or ahi tuna served with lime sticky rice and baby bok choy. Known for: romantic mountain views; inventive entrées; upscale eats. Average main: $25 6451 E. Millcreek Canyon Rd., Millcreek From I–15, take I–80 E to I–215 S; exit at 39th South; turn left at end of ramp, and left onto Wasatch Blvd., then turn right at 3800 South. Continue 4 miles up canyon 801/272–8255 www.log-haven.com H6.
Lone Star Taqueria. $ MEXICAN You can’t miss this tiny lime green joint, marked by an old sticker-covered car off Fort Union Boulevard. The kitchen serves tasty and cheap Mexican food—including house special fish tacos, handmade tamales, burritos, and plenty of chilled Mexican beer. Known for: signature fish tacos, giant burritos; drive-through window. Average main: $8 2265 E. Fort Union Blvd., Cottonwood 801/944–2300 www.lstaq.com Closed Sun. G6.
Porcupine Pub and Grille. $$ AMERICAN Above a ski- and board-rental shop at the mouth of Big and Little Cottonwood canyons sits one of the Valley’s most lively pubs. The menu offers more than 40 variations on traditional pub foods, including buffalo wings, rock shrimp pizza, burgers, ribs, burritos, and ahi tuna. Known for: pub food; various microbrews; welcoming environment. Average main: $15 3698 E. Fort Union Blvd., Cottonwood 801/942–5555 www.porcupinepub.com G6.
Luxury grand hotels, intimate bed-and-breakfasts, reliable national “all suites” chains—Salt Lake City has plenty of options when it comes to resting your head at night. Lodgings here cater to skiers in winter months, and many offer ski packages, transportation, and equipment-rental options, as well as knowledgeable staff who are probably on the slopes when they’re not at work. Most of the hotels are concentrated in the downtown area and west of the airport, but there are also numerous options to the south of Salt Lake proper and closer to the canyon areas, where there are several high-tech companies and corporate headquarters. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
Use the coordinates ( A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.
Carlton Hotel. $ HOTEL An absolute steal on the quiet side of downtown, this 80-year-old hotel has a gorgeous brick exterior, but few to no amenities. Pros: family-owned for 50 years; pleasant service; made-to-order breakfast included. Cons: some small rooms; hemmed in by high-rises and a parking garage. Rooms from: $79 140 E. South Temple, Downtown 801/355–3418 www.carltonhotel-slc.com 
35 rooms 
Breakfast F2.
Doubletree Suites by Hilton Salt Lake City. $$ HOTEL The sunlit atrium with its soaring ceiling gives the entire hotel a light, airy feeling, and the cool terra-cotta tile floors are soothing in the summer heat. Pros: suites are perfect for families; great on-site restaurant; two blocks from TRAX line. Cons: rooms fill up when conventions come to town; breakfast not included. Rooms from: $109 110 W. 600 S, Downtown 801/359–7800 244 suites No meals C6.
Fodor’sChoice The Grand America Hotel. $$$$ HOTEL With its white Bethel-granite exterior, this 24-story luxury hotel dominates the landscape a few blocks south of downtown. Pros: luxurious amenities; excellent pool and indoor spa; most rooms have a balcony. Cons: expensive for the area. Rooms from: $235 555 S. Main St., Downtown 801/258–6000, 800/304–8696 reservations www.grandamerica.com 775 rooms No meals C6.
Hilton–Salt Lake City Center. $$$ HOTEL This Hilton is one of the city’s largest and best-appointed places to stay, and it’s within walking distance of all downtown attractions and many great restaurants. Pros: great location; on-site Spencer’s steak house is a destination; on-site Starbucks. Cons: first hotel to sell out during conventions; fees for parking and Wi-Fi. Rooms from: $167 255 S. West Temple, Downtown 801/328–2000, 800/445–8667 www.hilton.com 499 rooms No meals C5.
Hotel RL by Red Lion Salt Lake Downtown. $$ HOTEL With its ‘70s-era architecture, this triangular high-rise is on the south end of downtown, and not a long walk from the Salt Palace Convention Center and Vivint Smart Home Arena (though the walk can be unpleasant in winter). Pros: easy access to I–15; free parking and airport shuttle; ski-rental shop across the street. Cons: could use update; not the best lodging for its price. Rooms from: $111 161 W. 600 S, Downtown 801/521–7373 www.redlion.com/salt-lake 394 rooms No meals B6.
Fodor’sChoice Kimpton Hotel Monaco Salt Lake City. $$$ HOTEL This swank hotel resides in a 14-story former bank (built in 1924), distinguished by an exterior decorated with classical cornices and cartouches. Pros: sparkling after $4 million renovation in 2013; restaurant has impeccable service and innovative food. Cons: parking is $19/day. Rooms from: $180 15 W. 200 S, Downtown 801/595–0000, 800/805–1801 www.monaco-saltlakecity.com 223 rooms No meals C5.
Little America Hotel. $$ HOTEL FAMILY This reliably comfortable hotel stands in the shadow of its world-renowned sister property, but Little America actually has more rooms and its own loyal following. Pros: large indoor-outdoor pool; trees make the courtyard an oasis; elegant touches. Cons: restaurants and sports bar lack pizzazz of some downtown eateries. Rooms from: $105 500 S. Main St., Downtown 800/281–7899 reservations, www.saltlake.littleamerica.com 850 rooms No meals C6.
Peery Hotel. $ HOTEL This historic building on the west side of downtown Salt Lake City is more than 100 years old, evidenced by its unique mulberry exterior, spacious antiques-filled lobby, and canopied beds in every room. Pros: well-maintained and charming; many “green” features; great location. Cons: occasional noise from local bars at night; $10 for valet parking; no on-site restaurant. Rooms from: $95 110 W. Broadway, Downtown 801/521–4300 www.peeryhotel.com 73 rooms No meals C5.
Salt Lake City Marriott City Center. $$$ HOTEL If you want to be in the heart of the city, the Marriot City Center offers a superb location. Pros: close to downtown attractions; updated amenities. Cons: special events at Gallivan Center can bring big crowds; on-site parking fees can add up. Rooms from: $154 220 S. State St., Downtown 801/961–8700 www.marriott.com 359 rooms No meals C5.
Salt Lake Marriott Downtown at City Creek. $$ HOTEL An extensive renovation in 2013 restored this property’s status as one of the leading business and convention hotels in downtown Salt Lake City. Pros: location can’t be beat; contemporary rooms; on-site restaurant, lounge, and Starbucks. Cons: not a lot of character; $15 parking. Rooms from: $146 75 S. West Temple, Downtown 801/531–0800 www.marriott.com 510 rooms No meals C4.
Sheraton Salt Lake City Hotel. $$ HOTEL One of the city’s major full-service hotels, this business-friendly place has a huge lobby with its own Starbucks coffee shop, oversize chairs, and fireplace. Pros: balcony rooms have great views; flat-panel TVs in rooms. Cons: far from heart of downtown; on busy stretch of 500 South. Rooms from: $108 150 W. 500 S, Downtown 801/401–2000, 800/364–3295 www.sheratonsaltlakecityhotel.com 362 rooms No meals B6.
Ellerbeck Mansion Bed and Breakfast. $$ B&B/INN A stay in this lovely Victorian mansion will give you a real appreciation of why city residents flock to live in the historic Avenues district. Pros: pleasant walk to Temple Square; fireplace in some rooms. Cons: surcharges and shortages when conventions are in town. Rooms from: $149 140 N. B St., Capitol Hill 801/699–0480 www.ellerbeckbedandbreakfast.com 6 rooms Breakfast F2.
Inn on the Hill Bed and Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN Owned and restored by former Salt Lake Tribune publisher Philip McCarthey, this turn-of-the-20th-century Renaissance Revival mansion makes a striking impression with its red-rock exterior. Pros: midway between Temple Square and the state capitol; each room is unique; rooms come with bathtubs and fireplaces. Cons: lots of steps and no elevator; kids only allowed in carriage house. Rooms from: $189 225 N. State St., Capitol Hill 801/328–1466 inn-on-the-hill.com 12 rooms Breakfast E2.
Salt Lake City Marriott University Park. $$ HOTEL Away from the downtown bustle and moments from hiking and biking trails, this spacious hotel is airy and inviting. Pros: near Natural History Museum and Red Butte Garden; close to hiking and biking trails. Cons: traditional amenities like shopping and restaurants are not within walking distance; less convenient to downtown. Rooms from: $100 480 Wakara Way, University of Utah 801/581–1000 www.marriott.com 218 rooms No meals H3.
Wildflowers Bed & Breakfast. $ B&B/INN An elegant “painted lady” with a private yard full of larkspur, columbine, and foxglove, this Victorian inn was built as a private home in 1891. Pros: friendly proprietors make you feel very welcome; listed on National Register of Historic Places; all the artwork is original, and much of it was painted by innkeeper Jeri Parker. Cons: clean and tidy—but may be ready for some updating. Rooms from: $90 936 E. 1700 S, East Side 801/466–0600, 800/569–0009 reservations www.wildflowersbb.com 5 rooms Breakfast F4.
Comfort Suites. $$$ HOTEL This newer property is a great alternative if the downtown hotels are all booked, as it’s closer than most other airport hotels to restaurants and other services. Pros: extensive renovations in rooms, hallways, and lobby in 2013; great value. Cons: very little within walking distance. Rooms from: $176 171 N. 2100 W, Airport 801/715–8688 www.choicehotels.com/comfort-inn 104 rooms Breakfast C2.
Doubletree by Hilton Salt Lake City Airport. $ HOTEL In its own self-contained world beside a man-made lake, this hotel meets business travelers’ needs with plenty of business and personal services. Pros: completely renovated in 2013; many on-site services, including restaurant and bar; large weight room; it’s ¼ mile around the lake if you’re a jogger. Cons: nothing within walking distance; there’s no downtown shuttle service. Rooms from: $85 5151 Wiley Post Way, Airport 801/539–1515 doubletree3.hilton.com 276 rooms, 12 suites No meals A2.
Holiday Inn Airport West. $ HOTEL This contemporary property, built in 2007, is a stunning departure from your grandfather’s Holiday Inn, with stylish interiors and up-to-date amenities. Pros: staff is genuine and works hard to ensure your satisfaction; a great value for families or convention-goers, as long as you have a car. Cons: the cluster of airport hotels feels like the last outpost before miles and miles of desert—and it is; there is nothing within walking distance; the nearest services are downtown. Rooms from: $90 5001 W. Wiley Post Way, Airport 801/741–1800 www.ihg.com 86 rooms No meals A2.
Radisson Hotel Salt Lake City Airport. $ HOTEL This comfortable hotel is a good bet between downtown and the airport. Pros: closer to downtown than other airport hotels. Cons: downtown Radisson offers nicer property, location, and amenities—often at nearly identical rate; too far to walk to downtown attractions. Rooms from: $85 2177 W. North Temple, Airport 800/967–9033 Reservations www.radisson.com 124 rooms No meals C2.
Rodeway Inn Salt Lake City Airport. $$ HOTEL Spacious, clean, and decked out with amenities, this is a good value for a stay near the airport, with easy access to downtown. Pros: caters to business travelers. Cons: in a lifeless corporate park west of the airport. Rooms from: $129 200 N. Admiral Byrd Rd., Airport 801/746–5200, 800/535–8742 www.choicehotels.com/rodeway-inn 155 rooms Breakfast A2.
Courtyard Salt Lake City Sandy. $$ HOTEL Excellent for business travelers visiting Salt Lake’s many South Valley corporations, this full-service hotel offers large in-room desks with broadband and spacious work areas. Pros: close to shopping; convenient if skiing in Cottonwood canyons. Cons: close to highway. Rooms from: $115 10701 S. Holiday Park Dr., Sandy 801/571–3600 www.marriott.com 124 rooms No meals E6.
La Quinta Inn Salt Lake City Midvale. $ HOTEL It may be a bit far from downtown, but you have easy access to the TRAX line (there’s a stop a block from the hotel), which will take you downtown, to the south suburbs, or to the University of Utah. Pros: interior hallways; breakfast included. Cons: industrial neighborhood is hardly family-friendly. Rooms from: $79 7231 S. Catalpa St., Midvale 801/566–3291 www.laquintasaltlakecitymidvale.com 125 rooms Breakfast E6.
For information on what’s happening around town, pick up a City Weekly news and entertainment weekly, available at stands outside restaurants and stores in town.
Bars and clubs serving cocktails and providing live music abound in Salt Lake City, meeting diverse tastes. Yet remnants of the state’s quirky liquor laws make for a few surprises to newcomers. Don’t expect to spend the night barhopping along a single street—zoning prohibits more than two bars on one block. And you won’t party until dawn here—last call is 1 am or earlier. Cabs are not on hand outside every bar or club, so you will probably have to call for one.
DOWNTOWN SALT LAKE
BARS AND LOUNGES
Lumpy’s Downtown. This gathering place for sports fans is hopping seven nights a week until 2 am. You’ll find televisions at every booth and a dance floor. Lumpy’s is within walking distance of most downtown hotels. 145 Pierpont Ave., Downtown 801/883–8714 www.lumpysbar.com.
The Red Door. Try a martini at this trendy bar with a cosmopolitan accent, where an eclectic crowd hangs out. The Red Door is closed on Sunday. 57 W. 200 S #102, Downtown 801/363–6030 thereddoorslc.com.
Squatters Pub Brewery. This pub is lined with well-deserved awards from the Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup. The pub has friendly staff and a nice casual vibe, and is especially lively when conventions are in town; they serve great food, too. 147 W. 300 S. Broadway, Downtown 801/363–2739 www.squatters.com.
Tavernacle Social Club. Dueling pianos (Wednesday through Saturday) and karaoke (Sunday to Tuesday) make for a festive atmosphere in this bar just east of downtown. The musicians only play requests, and if you don’t like the current song, you can pay $1 to change it. 201 E. 300 S, Downtown 801/519–8900 www.tavernacle.com.
Salt Lake City’s arts tradition officially started in 1847 with the Deseret Musical and Dramatic Society, founded by Brigham Young. The city has continued to give strong support for the arts, even voting for a special tax to support cultural organizations such as the opera and symphony. Ballet West, the Utah Symphony, and Utah Opera have kept the state on the nation’s cultural map. The Capitol Theatre and Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center host Broadway touring companies. The Pioneer Theatre Company and Plan-B Theatre produce the most successful theater productions. Many film lovers forgo the snow and the crowds of Park City to enjoy the 10-day Sundance Film Festival at a half-dozen Salt Lake City venues every January. Lesser-known and locally written plays are presented in small theaters throughout the valley.
TICKETS
ArtTix. Salt Lake City’s main ticketing service for various shows at locations like Eccles Theater and Abravanel Hall, to name a few. Downtown 801/355–2787, 888/451–2787 artsaltlake.org/events.
MAJOR PERFORMANCE VENUES
There are three main performance spaces in Salt Lake City.
Fodor’sChoice Abravanel Hall. Home of the Utah Symphony and other distinguished events like the Wasatch Speaker Series featuring names such as Dr. Sanjay Gupta, Former Vice President Joe Biden, and Jane Goodall. 123 W. South Temple, Downtown 801/468–1010 artsaltlake.org/venue/abravanel-hall.
Capitol Theatre. The Janet Quinney Lawson Capitol Theatre features Ballet West and the Utah Opera in addition to hosting Broadway touring companies. 50 W. 200 S, Downtown 801/355–2787 artsaltlake.org/venue/capitol-theatre.
Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center. Comprising the Black Box Theatre, the Jeanné Wagner Theatre, and the Studio Theatre, the Center is home to the Ririe-Woodbury Dance Company and the Repertory Dance Theatre, providing performance space for many of the city’s smaller theater and dance companies. 138 W. 300 S. Broadway, Downtown 801/355–2787 artsaltlake.org/venue/rose-wagner-center.
DANCE
Ballet West. This respected professional ballet company performs both classic and original works at the Capitol Theatre. Its inner-workings featured in the multiseason reality show Breaking Pointe. Capitol Theatre, 50 W. 200 S, Downtown 801/869–6900 www.balletwest.org.
Repertory Dance Theatre. This company presents modern-dance performances that portray art in motion. Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center, 138 W. 300 S. Broadway, Downtown 801/534–1000 www.rdtutah.org.
Ririe-Woodbury Dance Company. This is Salt Lake City’s premier modern dance troupe, recognized for its innovation and commitment to community education. 138 W. 300 S. Broadway, Downtown 801/297–4241 www.ririewoodbury.com.
FILM
Brewvies Cinema Pub. A variety of new releases and independent films are shown here. You can have a beer and dinner with the show. 677 S. 200 W, Downtown 801/322–3891 www.brewvies.com.
Broadway Centre Theatre. The Salt Lake Film Society shows newly released, independent, and foreign films here. 111 E. Broadway, Downtown 801/321–0310 www.saltlakefilmsociety.org.
Tower Theatre. See newly released, independent, and foreign films at this historic art deco theater that’s also a Sundance Film Festival venue. 876 E. 900 S, East Side 801/321–0310 www.saltlakefilmsociety.org.
MUSIC
Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Nearly 400 volunteers make up this famous choir, which performs sacred music, with some secular (classical and patriotic) works. You can hear them during their weekly broadcast, “Music and the Spoken Word,” Sunday morning from 9:30 to 10 in the Tabernacle most of the year. Their weekly rehearsal, also open to the public, is on Thursday evening from 7:30 to 9:30 in the Tabernacle. 50 N. West Temple, Temple Square 801/240–4150 www.mormontabernaclechoir.org.
Utah Symphony. The premier orchestra in the state, if not the region, the Utah Symphony performs in the acoustically acclaimed Maurice Abravanel Concert Hall and calls the Deer Valley Music Festival its summer home. Abravanel Hall, 123 W. South Temple, Downtown 801/533–6683 www.utahsymphony.org.
OPERA
Utah Opera. Since 1978, this company has performed new and classical works at Capitol Theatre and throughout the state. 123 W. South Temple, Downtown 801/533–6683 www.utahopera.org.
THEATER
Off Broadway Theatre. Musicals and plays here include comedies, parodies, and improvisational comedy events. 272 S. Main St., Downtown 801/355–4628 www.theobt.org.
Pioneer Theatre Company. This professional company, in residence at the University of Utah, stages classic and contemporary musicals and plays. From Les Misérables to The Producers, it has proven it can put on large-scale and commercially viable theater. 300 S. 1400 E, Room 325, University of Utah 801/581–6961 www.pioneertheatre.org.
Fodor’sChoice Plan-B Theatre. The resident company of the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center stages modest productions built on fine original scripts and timely social and cultural themes. Two shows became hits outside of Utah: Facing East, which went to New York off-Broadway, and Exposed, which drew considerable acclaim for tackling the issue of fallout from nuclear testing in the 1950s. 138 W. 300 S, Downtown 801/297–4200 planbtheatre.org.
Salt Lake Acting Company. Recognized for its development of new regionally and locally written plays, this company’s performances run year-round. The Company brings thought-provoking plays to the Salt Lake Area while promoting arts education for Utahns in kindergarten up through the university level. 168 W. 500 N, Capitol Hill 801/363–7522 www.saltlakeactingcompany.org.
Salt Lake’s shopping is concentrated downtown as well as in several malls. Good bets for souvenirs include books, Mormon crafts, and Western collectibles. The vicinity of 300 South and 300 East streets has several shops that specialize in antique jewelry, furnishings, art, and knickknacks.
PLAZAS AND MALLS
City Creek Center. The City Creek Center is the centerpiece of a $1 billion downtown redevelopment across from Temple Square in 2012. To date, City Creek has brought luxury shopping to the city with stores like Nordstrom, Tiffany & Co., Porsche Design, and Pandora. Although the outdoor mall is gorgeous and developers were credited with bringing historic City Creek waterway back above ground, it’s somewhat controversial—the Mormon Church owns the land and most shops are closed on Sunday. 50 S. Main St., Downtown 801/521–2012 www.shopcitycreekcenter.com Closed Sun.
Gateway Mall. FAMILY Gateway Mall brings together a shopping mall, children’s museum, restaurants, and business and residential center, all accessible by TRAX, Salt Lake’s mass transit. 400 W. 100 S, Downtown 801/456–0000 www.shopthegateway.com.
OUTDOOR MARKETS
Farmers bring produce, flowers, and other goodies to the popular downtown farmers’ market at Pioneer Park, at 300 West and 300 South streets, each Saturday from June through mid-October. Local bakeries and restaurants also sell tasty treats ranging from fresh salsa to cinnamon rolls, and there is live music, too. Find fresh markets in Park City, Murray, South Jordan, and at the University of Utah in the summer as well.
ART GALLERIES
Alice Gallery at Glendinning. This gallery is housed in Glendinning Mansion, which is also home to the Utah Arts Council. 617 E. South Temple, Downtown 801/245–7272 heritage.utah.gov/arts-and-museums/things-galleries-alice Closed weekends.
Phillips Gallery. Phillips Gallery features three floors of local artists’ work, including mixed media, paintings, and sculptures. Check out the sculptures on their rooftop for a view of art and nature. 444 E. 200 S, Downtown 801/364–8284 www.phillips-gallery.com Closed Sun. and Mon.
BOOKS
Ken Sanders Rare Books. More than 100,000 titles await in this store that specializes in literature about Utah, Mormons, and Western exploration. 268 S. 200 E, Downtown 801/521–3819 www.kensandersbooks.com.
Weller Book Works. The name of this store has been synonymous with independent book sales in Salt Lake City since 1929. Catherine and Tony Weller are the third generation to operate this bookstore, which relocated to the historic former train yard in 2012. Bibliophiles will love the space and the helpful and knowledgeable staff. 607 Trolley Sq., East Side 801/328–2586 www.wellerbookworks.com.
Explore the smaller neighborhood clusters of shops such as 9th & 9th (900 South, 900 East), Foothill Village, or Trolley Square to find unique souvenirs of Utah.
BOOKS
The King’s English Bookshop. FAMILY This converted cottage is a great place to browse. Works by local authors, a wide selection of children’s books, a dozen reading groups, and a community writing series can all be found here. 1511 S. 1500 E, East Side 801/484–9100 www.kingsenglish.com.
PLAZAS AND MALLS
Sugar House Business District. The Sugar House Business District is a funky mix of locally owned shops and restaurants between 1700 South and 2700 South streets, from 700 East to 1300 East streets. East Side.
Trolley Square. The wares here run the gamut from estate jewelry and designer clothes to bath products, baskets, and saltwater taffy. Stores include Pottery Barn, Weller Books, lululemon, Tabula Rasa, and an assortment of restaurants, as well as a Whole Foods Market. 600 S. 700 E, East Side 801/521–9877.
SPORTING GOODS
Backcountry.com. This is one of the best-known outdoor-equipment retailers. Visit their small showroom and massive (200,000-square-foot) back room where you can shop or pick up products you’ve ordered online. Skiers, boarders, campers, and climbers are all welcome. 2607 S. 3200 W, West Side 800/409–4502 www.backcountry.com.
Kirkham’s Outdoor Products. Locally owned, this store carries a wide spectrum of outdoor gear. 3125 S. State St., The Suburbs 801/486–4161, 800/453–7756 www.kirkhams.com.
31 miles from Downtown Salt Lake City.
The history of mining and skiing in Utah often go hand in hand, and that’s certainly true of Big Cottonwood Canyon, with its adjacent ski resorts of Brighton and Solitude. In the mid-1800s, 2,500 miners lived at the top of this canyon in a rowdy tent city. The old mining roads make great hiking, mountain-biking, and backcountry ski trails. Rock climbers congregate in the lower canyon for excellent sport and traditional climbing.
Opened in 1936, Brighton is the second-oldest ski resort in Utah, and one of the oldest in North America. Just down the canyon, Solitude has undergone several incarnations since it opened in 1957, and has invested heavily in overnight accommodations and new base facilities since the early 1990s. As an area, Big Cottonwood is quieter than Park City or neighboring Little Cottonwood Canyon, home of Alta and Snowbird resorts.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
From downtown Salt Lake City it’s a 40-minute drive to Big Cottonwood via Interstate 80 and Interstate 215, then Highway 190 E. Most downtown hotels offer free shuttles to the ski resorts, and Utah Transit Authority runs bus shuttles for $4.50 each way.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
BICYCLING
Solitude Mountain Resort. Mountain bikers will love Solitude for its single-track trails that span 20 miles within Big Cottonwood Canyon as well as routes that connect neighboring canyons. Solitude Mountain Resort offers lift-served mountain biking with rentals available at Solitude Village from mid-to-late June to early October, weather permitting. 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd. 801/748–4754 solitudemountain.com.
HIKING
Brighton Lakes Trail. The upper section of Big Cottonwood Canyon is a glacier-carved valley with many side drainages that lead to picturesque alpine lakes. In the Brighton area, you can access beautiful mountain lakes (Mary, Margaret, and Catherine) just a short jaunt from the highway. The elevation at Brighton’s parking lot is 8,700 feet, so take it easy, rest often, drink plenty of water, and keep an eye on the weather no matter the season. A beautiful hike is along the Brighton Lakes Trail past four alpine lakes and then ascending to Catherine Pass. From here you can choose to descend into Little Cottonwood’s Albion Basin near Alta (but remember, you’ll need a car for the 45-minute ride back to Brighton), or back along the Brighton Lakes Trail.
RIDE ON THE PONY EXPRESS TRAIL
Imagine a young man racing over the dusty trail on the back of a foaming mustang. A cloud of dust rises to announce him to the station manager, who waits with a new mount, some beef jerky, and water. The rider has galloped 11 miles since breakfast and will cover another 49 before he sleeps. That was the daily life of a courier with the Pony Express.
A rider had to weigh less than 120 pounds. He was allowed only 25 pounds in gear, which included four leather mail pouches, a light rifle, a pistol, and a Bible. The standard uniform consisted of a bright red shirt and blue pants. Hostile Indians, bandits, and rattlesnakes were handled with the guns. The blazing heat of the desert in the summer and blinding blizzards in the winter were his constant foes.
There are few places in the United States where the original trail and stations of the Pony Express survive in such pristine condition as they do in Utah. One of the best-preserved sections of the original Pony Express Trail, which was in operation for 19 months in the mid-19th century, is the 133-mile section through the desert of west-central Utah. You’ll see territory that remains much as it was during the existence of the Pony Express, and many of the sights you’ll see along the way haven’t changed perceptibly since that time. The desert has preserved them.
If you want to traverse the route, the logical starting point is Camp Floyd–Stagecoach Inn State Park in Fairfield. The end is in Ibapah, 133 miles away on the Utah-Nevada border. Stone pillars with metal plaques mark the route that starts and ends on pavement, then becomes a dirt road for 126 miles that is passable when dry. The Bureau of Land Management maintains a campground at Simpson Springs, one of the area’s most dependable water sources. Some interesting ruins are still visible at the Faust, Boyd, and Canyon stations. A brochure describing the major stops along the trail is available from the U.S. Bureau of Land Management’s Salt Lake Field Office.
It takes a certain breed of romantic to appreciate the beauty of the land and life lived by those who kept the mail moving during the short time that the Pony Express existed. For those with a similar sense of adventure as the wiry young riders, who included “Buffalo Bill” Cody, traveling this trail is a chance to relive history. Historians say that the enterprise enabled communications between Washington, D.C. and California, keeping the state in the Union and helping to secure the North’s eventual success in the Civil War. Stagecoaches, freight wagons, the Transcontinental Railroad, and the Lincoln Highway all followed the route pioneered by the Pony Express. Before the Pony Express, it took mail six to eight weeks to travel from Missouri to California; by Pony Express, the mail took 10 days to arrive. This labor-intensive system of communicating cross-country ended with the invention of the telegraph—once it was put into wide use, telegraphed messages went across the continent in a mere four hours.
Sunset Peak. At Catherine Pass you have the option of continuing up to Sunset Peak, which, at 10,648 feet, is one of the most accessible summits in the Wasatch Range. It’s another short grunt to the top, but well worth the effort for the unsurpassed, nearly 360-degree view. The breathtaking vistas include the Heber Valley, Park City, Mount Timpanogos, Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, and even a portion of the Salt Lake Valley.
SKIING
CROSS-COUNTRY Solitude Nordic Center. Accessible from Solitude Village, the Solitude Nordic Center has 20 km (12 miles) of groomed cross-country trails, 10 km (6 miles) of snowshoe trails, and a small shop offering rentals, lessons, food, and guided tours. For $20 you can use the trails all day; for $62 you can get a private lesson as well as an all-day trail pass. 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd. 801/534–1400 solitudemountain.com.
DOWNHILL Brighton Ski Resort. The smallest of the Cottonwood resorts just outside Salt Lake City, Brighton is nonetheless a favorite among serious snowboarders, parents (who flock to the resort’s ski school), and some extreme skiers and riders. There are no megaresort amenities here, just a nice mix of terrain for all abilities, and a basic lodge, ski shop, and ski school. The snow is as powdery and deep as nearby Alta and Snowbird, and advanced (and prepared) skiers can access extensive backcountry areas. There’s something for everyone here at a fraction of the cost of the bigger resorts. 8302 S. Brighton Loop Rd., Brighton 801/532–4731, 855/201–7669, www.brightonresort.com Lift tickets $72 
1,745-ft vertical drop; 1,050 skiable acres; 21% beginner, 40% intermediate, 39% advanced/expert; 5 high-speed quad chairs, 1 triple chair.
Solitude Mountain Resort. Since 1957, Solitude Mountain Resort offers Big Cottonwood Canyon’s most intense ski experience. It has since grown into a European-style village with lodges, condominiums, a luxury hotel, and good restaurants. Downhill skiing and snowboarding are still the main attractions, with steep, pristine terrain in Honeycomb Canyon attracting the experts, and a mix of intermediate cruising runs and beginner slopes beckoning the less accomplished. Day guests will enjoy relaxing after a hard day on the slopes at the comfortable Solitude Mountain Spa. 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Solitude 801/534–1400, 800/748–4754, 801/536–5774 Nordic Center, 801/536–5777 snow report www.solitudemountain.com Lift tickets $88 2,047-ft vertical drop; 1,200 skiable acres; 20% beginner, 50% intermediate, 30% advanced; 3 high-speed quad chairs, 2 quad chairs, 1 triple chair, 2 double chairs.
WHERE TO STAY
Brighton Lodge. $$ HOTEL There are no frills at Brighton, and if you blink you might miss this inn at the base of the ski hill, but in an area where skiing is increasingly expensive, you can save money and enjoy fantastic family skiing here. Pros: unpretentious in every way; a good deal for families. Cons: if you don’t have kids, the family atmosphere may not appeal. Rooms from: $139 8302 S. Brighton Loop Rd. 801/532–4731, 855/201–7669 reservations www.brightonresort.com 16 rooms No meals.
The Inn at Solitude. $$$$ RESORT You get ski-in ski-out luxury and VIP treatment at this well-appointed hotel with comfortable and spacious rooms. Pros: guest-only wine tasting events; outdoor heated pool. Cons: “solitude” equals “quiet.”. Rooms from: $386 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Solitude 800/748–4754 solitudemountain.com/explore-lodging/the-inn-at-solitude Closed May–Nov. 42 rooms, 4 suites No meals.
Powderhorn Lodge. $$$$ RENTAL The spacious condo-style units and convenient location allow for the perfect family ski trip. Pros: handsome furnishings and full kitchens; convenient to slopes and Solitude’s village; condos have private balconies and fireplaces. Cons: early-to-bed spot. Rooms from: $250 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd. 800/748–4754, 801/534–1400 solitudemountain.com/explore-lodging/powderhorn-lodge 60 units No meals.
Silver Fork Lodge. $$$ B&B/INN Log furniture and wood paneling make the rooms here warm and inviting; the views are unbeatable and the food is a major attraction. Pros: renowned dining; breakfast on patio in warmer months; attentive service. Cons: nightlife is lacking; no in-room phones or TVs. Rooms from: $165 11332 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd. 801/533–9977, 888/649–9551 www.silverforklodge.com 6 rooms, 1 suite Breakfast.
NIGHTLIFE
Molly Green’s. Once referred to as the “Majestic Manor,” ski bums and snowboarders come together to tip back a few at Molly Green’s, a 60-plus year-old watering hole in the A-frame at the base of Brighton Ski Resort. Brighton Ski Resort, 12601 Big Cottonwood Rd. 801/532–4731 brightonresort.com/stay/dining Call for hrs, May–Nov.
Thirsty Squirrel. A good place to unwind after a day on the slopes, Thirsty Squirrel quiets down once the après-ski crowd leaves. Powderhorn Bldg., Solitude Village, 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd. 801/534–1400 solitudemountain.com/village-dining/thirsty-squirrel Closed May–Oct.
25 miles from Brighton and Solitude; 20 miles from Salt Lake City.
Skiers have been singing the praises of Little Cottonwood Canyon since 1938, when the Alta Lifts Company pieced together a ski lift using parts from an old mine tram to become the Alta Ski Resort, the second ski resort in North America. With its 500 inches per year of dry, light snow and unparalleled terrain, this canyon is legendary among diehard snow enthusiasts. A mile down the canyon from Alta, Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, which opened in 1971, shares the same mythical snow and terrain quality. Since 2001 Alta and Snowbird have been connected via the Mineral Basin area. You can purchase an Alta Snowbird One Pass that allows you on the lifts at both areas, making this a huge skiing complex.
But skiing isn’t all there is to do here. Many mountain-biking and hiking trails access the higher reaches of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest, and the trails over Catherine Pass will put you at the head of Big Cottonwood Canyon at the Brighton Ski Area. The hike to Catherine Pass is relatively easy and quite scenic. Formed by the tireless path of an ancient glacier, Little Cottonwood Canyon cuts a swath through the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. Canyon walls are composed mostly of striated granite, and traditional climbing routes of varied difficulty abound. Down the canyon from Alta and Snowbird is the trailhead for the Red Pine Lake and White Pine Lake trails. Some 3½ miles and 5 miles in, respectively, these mountain lakes make for great day hikes.
At Snowbird’s base area, modern structures house guest rooms, restaurants, and nightclubs. The largest of these buildings, the Cliff Lodge, is an entire ski village under one roof. The resort mounts a variety of entertainment throughout the year, including live jazz shows, rock, blues, folk, and bluegrass concerts, and an Oktoberfest in fall. You can enjoy a drink at any of several base-area lounges.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Travelers to Little Cottonwood Canyon take I–80 East to I–215 South, then hop off the highway at Exit 6 and venture into Little Cottonwood Canyon, following signs for Alta and Snowbird. The canyon’s dramatic topography invites very occasional avalanches that block the road, the only entrance and egress.
ESSENTIALS
Visitor Information Alta Chamber & Visitors Bureau. 435/633–1394 www.discoveralta.com.
EXPLORING
Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. The resort is transformed into a playground in summer with rides and games for children of all ages, plus concerts, outdoor sports, dining, and more. Thrill-seekers will love the mountain coaster, the alpine slide, the zip line, and the mountain flyer, which resembles a roller coaster. You’ll also find a climbing wall, trampoline, ropes course, inflatables, and more man-made fun. There are ample options to access stunning hiking terrain and views, including the tram to 11,000-foot Hidden Peak. 9385 Snowbird Center Trail, Sandy 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com All-day activity pass $49 (individual ride tickets are also available); $24 tram ride only.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
BICYCLING
Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. Other than a mile-long beginner-to-intermediate single-track trail, the steep, rocky terrain here is not recommended for novices. Advanced mountain bikers can ride the tram at Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort to the top of the mountain and access a network of trails. Adventure addicts should check out the brand new Big Mountain Trail, which is downhill riding only with a 2,900-foot descent over 7½ miles from the top of Hidden Peak down to Snowbird Center. Road cyclists should note that Little Cottonwood Canyon has been part of the most grueling stage of the Tour of Utah bike race several times. Bike rentals are available. Summer tram tickets are $24/day, with family passes and season passes available. 9385 Snowbird Center Trail, Sandy 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com.
HIKING
The upper canyons provide a cool haven during the hot summer months. Wildflowers and wildlife are plentiful, and most trails provide a good balance of shade and sun. Due to high altitude, even fit hikers often become fatigued and dehydrated faster than they would otherwise, so remember to take it easy, rest often, and drink plenty of water.
Sunset Peak. The trailhead for the 4-mile out-and-back hike to Sunset Peak starts high in Little Cottonwood Canyon, above Alta Ski Resort, in Albion Basin. This is a popular area for finding wildflowers in July and August. After an initial steep incline, the trail wanders through flat meadows before it climbs again to Catherine Pass at 10,240 feet. From here intermediate hikes continue along the ridge in both directions. Continue up the trail to the summit of Sunset Peak for breathtaking views of the Heber Valley, Park City, Mount Timpanogos, Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, and even a part of the Salt Lake Valley. You can alter your route by starting in Little Cottonwood Canyon and ending your hike in neighboring Big Cottonwood Canyon: from Catherine Pass descend into Big Cottonwood Canyon, passing four lakes and finally ending up at Brighton Ski Resort. If you choose to end your hike in Big Cottonwood, make sure you aren’t left stranded without a car.
White Pine Trailhead. White Pine Trailhead, ¾ mile below Snowbird on the south side of the road, accesses some excellent easy hikes to overlooks. If you want to keep going on more intermediate trails, continue up the trail to the lakes in White Pine Canyon, Red Pine Canyon, and Maybird Gulch. All of these hikes share a common path for the first mile.
SKIING
Fodor’sChoice Alta Ski Area. Alta Ski Area has perhaps the best snow anywhere in the world—up to 500 inches a year, and terrain to match it. Alta is one of the few resorts left in the country that doesn’t allow snowboarding. Sprawling across two large basins, Albion and Wildcat, Alta has a good mixture of expert, intermediate, and beginner terrain. Much of the best skiing (for advanced or expert skiers) requires either finding obscure traverses or doing some hiking. It takes some time to get to know this mountain so if you can find a local to show you around you’ll be ahead of the game. Albion Basin’s lower slopes have a terrific expanse of novice and lower-intermediate terrain. Rolling meadows, wide trails, and light dry snow create one of the best places in the country for less-skilled skiers to learn to ski powder. Two-hour lessons start at $70. In addition to downhill skiing, Alta also has 3 km of groomed track for skating and classic skiing (on a separate ticket), plus a good selection of rental equipment at Alta Ski Shop. 10230 UT-210, Alta 801/359–1078, 801/572–3939 snow report www.alta.com Lift tickets $104; Alta Snowbird Day Pass $139 2,020-ft vertical drop; 2,200 skiable acres; 25% novice, 40% intermediate, 35% advanced; 2 high-speed quads, 2 triple chairs, 3 double chairs.
Fodor’sChoice Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. For many skiers, this is as close to heaven as you can get. Soar aboard Snowbird’s signature 125-passenger tram straight from the base to the resort’s highest point, 11,000 feet above sea level, and then descend into a playground of powder-filled chutes, bowls, and meadows—a leg-burning top-to-bottom run of more than 3,000 vertical feet if you choose. The terrain here is weighted more toward experts—35% of Snowbird is rated black diamond—and if there is a drawback to this resort, it’s a lack of beginner terrain. The open bowls, such as Little Cloud and Regulator Johnson, are challenging; the Upper Cirque and the Gad Chutes are hair-raising. On deep-powder days—not uncommon at the Bird—these chutes are exhilarating for skiers who like that sense of a cushioned free fall with every turn. With a nod to intermediate skiers, Snowbird opened North America’s first skier tunnel in 2006. Skiers and boarders now ride a 600-foot magic carpet through the Peruvian Tunnel, reducing the trek to Mineral Basin. If you’re looking for intermediate cruising runs, there’s the long, meandering Chip’s Run. After a day of powder turns, you can lounge on the 3,000-square-foot deck of Creekside Lodge at the base of Gad Valley. Beginner’s lessons start at $130 and include lift ticket, tuition, and rentals. Hwy. 210, Snowbird 801/933–2222, 800/232–9542 lodging reservations, 801/933–2110 special events, 801/933–2100 snow report www.snowbird.com Lift tickets $106 3,240-ft vertical drop; 2,500 skiable acres; 27% novice, 38% intermediate, 35% advanced; 125-passenger tram, 4 quad lifts, 6 double chairs, 1 gondola, and a skier tunnel with surface lift.
SKI TOURS
Ski Utah Interconnect Adventure Tour. Strong intermediate and advanced skiers can hook up with the Ski Utah Interconnect Adventure Tour for a guided alpine ski tour that takes you to as many as six resorts (including Brighton, Solitude, Alta, and Snowbird) in a single day, all connected by backcountry ski routes with unparalleled views of the Wasatch Mountains. Guides test your ski ability before departure. The tour includes guide service, lift tickets, lunch, and transportation back to the point of origin. You’ll even walk away with a finisher’s pin. The Deer Valley Departure Tour operates Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday; the Snowbird Departure Tour operates Thursday and Saturday. Reservations are required. 2749 Parleys Way #310 801/534–1907 www.skiutah.com $395.
Wasatch Powderbird Guides. If you don’t mind paying for it, the best way to find untracked Utah powder is with Wasatch Powderbird Guides. A helicopter drops you on the top of the mountain, and a guide leads you back down. Itineraries are always weather dependent. Call to inquire about departures from Snowbird (Little Cottonwood Canyon) or Park City Mountain Resort (Canyons Village). 3000 Canyons Resort Dr., Park City 801/742–2800 www.powderbird.com From $1260.
WHERE TO EAT
The Aerie Restaurant, Lounge and Sushi Bar. $$$ AMERICAN Spectacular panoramic views through 15-foot windows, white-linen tablecloths, and dark Oriental rugs set a romantic mood at Little Cottonwood’s most elegant dining option on the 10th floor of the Cliff Lodge. Pleasant surprises dot the menu, with entrées like lobster mac-and-cheese and the BBQ whiskey-braised pork shank. Known for: game dishes; lobster mac-and-cheese. Average main: $30 Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, Cliff Lodge, Hwy. 210, 10th fl., Snowbird 801/933–2160 www.snowbird.com/dining/the-aerie No lunch.
Shallow Shaft. $$$$ AMERICAN For fine American Kobe beef, seafood, poultry, and pasta dishes, Alta’s only sit-down restaurant not in a hotel is the place to go. The cuisine has a regional focus, with dishes like Willis lamb T-bone and boneless beef short rib. Known for: upscale dining; Kobe beef; delicious steaks. Average main: $38 10199 E. Hwy. 210, Alta 801/742–2177 www.shallowshaft.com No lunch. Closed Apr.–Nov.
Steak Pit. $$$$ STEAKHOUSE Views and food take precedence over interior design at Snowbird’s oldest restaurant, with a menu full of well-prepared steak and seafood choices. Whether you opt for the oven-baked scallops or filet mignon, you can’t go wrong. Known for: prime rib eye with smoked sea salt; Alaskan king crab split legs. Average main: $35 Snowbird Plaza Center, 9385 S # 092, Snowbird Center Trail, Snowbird 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com/dining/the-steak-pit No lunch.
WHERE TO STAY
Alta Lodge. $$$$ B&B/INN This is a homey place, where many families have been booking the same week each year for several generations. Pros: close to Alta’s steep slopes; views of the Wasatch Mountains; pleasant staff. Cons: few amenities for price; no TVs in guest rooms. Rooms from: $360 10230 Little Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Alta 801/742–3500, 800/707–2582 www.altalodge.com Closed mid-Apr.–May and early Oct.–mid-Nov. 53 rooms, 4 dorms Some meals.
Alta’s Rustler Lodge. $$$$ HOTEL Alta’s fanciest lodge resembles a traditional full-service hotel and the interior is decidedly upscale. Pros: mountain views; on the slopes of Alta Ski Resort; unpretentious service. Cons: avalanches are rare, but you could get snowed in. Rooms from: $450 10380 E. Hwy. 210, Alta 801/742–4200 www.rustlerlodge.com Closed May–mid-Nov. 85 rooms, 4 dorms Some meals.
Cliff Lodge. $$$$ RESORT The stark concrete walls of this 10-story structure, designed to complement the surrounding granite cliffs, enclose a self-contained village with restaurants, bars, shops, and a high-end, two-story spa. Pros: windows facing the Wasatch Range; nice rooftop spa; several eateries and bars on-site. Cons: outdated furniture; poor lighting in rooms. Rooms from: $240 Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, 9320 Cliff Lodge Dr., Snowbird 801/933–2222, 800/232–9542 www.snowbird.com/lodging/the-cliff-lodge 511 rooms No meals.
Iron Blosam Lodge. $$$$ RESORT A utilitarian lobby with a lot of exposed concrete belies attractive condo-style lodging with accommodations and amenities to suit most any traveler’s needs, including studios, bedrooms with lofts, and one-bedroom suites. Pros: many rooms have fireplaces and balconies; close to the slopes. Cons: guests booking through Saturday will be required to change rooms due to property’s fix week ownership. Rooms from: $240 Hwy. 210, Resort Entry 2, Snowbird 801/933–2222, 800/232–9542 www.snowbird.com/lodging/the-iron-blosam Closed 1 wk fall and 1 wk late spring 159 rooms No meals.
NIGHTLIFE AND PERFORMING ARTS
NIGHTLIFE
Almost all the lodges in Little Cottonwood have their own bar or lounge, and tend to be on the quiet side, centering on the après-ski scene.
Aerie Lounge. Lots of couches and a fireplace give the Aerie Lounge a relaxed feel. You can listen to live music every Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday night during the winter. Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, Cliff Lodge, Hwy. 210, 10th fl., Snowbird 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com/dining/the-aerie.
The Sitzmark Club. Upstairs at the Alta Lodge, the Sitzmark Club is a small, comfortable bar that is a favorite with many of the freeskiers who call Little Cottonwood home. Alta Lodge, Hwy. 210, Alta 801/742–3500 www.altalodge.com.
Tram Club. Windows looking into the gears of the Snowbird tram give the Tram Club its name. Swank leather couches, live music, pool tables, big screens, and video games draw a younger crowd. Snowbird Center, Hwy. 210, Snowbird 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com/dining/the-tram-club.
PERFORMING ARTS
Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. Even after the snow melts, this is one of the top spots to go in the mountains for special events, including the Friday night films, free outdoor music, and two months of Oktoberfest. Hwy. 210, Snowbird 801/933–2222 www.snowbird.com.
25 miles north of Salt Lake City.
The best way to experience Great Salt Lake is a half-day excursion to Antelope Island. There’s no place in the country like this state park, home to millions of waterfowl and hundreds of bison and antelope, and surrounded by some of the saltiest water on earth. Drive the 7-mile narrow causeway that links the shoreline, then explore the historic ranch house and miles of hiking trails, and try a buffalo burger at the small café.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Take Exit 332 off Interstate 15, then drive west on Antelope Drive for 7 miles to the park entrance.
EXPLORING
Antelope Island State Park. Hiking and biking trails crisscross the island.
You can go saltwater bathing at several beach areas. Since the salinity level of the lake is always greater than that of the ocean, the water is extremely buoyant. Hot showers at the marina remove the chill and the salt afterward.
The island has historic sites, as well as desert wildlife and birds in their natural habitat. The island’s most popular inhabitants are the members of a herd of more than 500 bison descended from 12 brought here in 1893. Each October at the Buffalo Roundup more than 250 volunteers on horseback round up the free-roaming animals and herd them to the island’s north end to be counted. The island’s Fielding-Garr House, built in 1848 and now owned by the state, was the oldest continuously inhabited home in Utah until the last resident moved out in 1981. The house displays assorted ranching artifacts, and guided horseback riding is available from the stables next to the house. Sample a bison burger at the stand that overlooks the lake to the north. Access to the island is via a 7½-mile causeway. 4528 W. 1700 S, Syracuse 801/773–2941 stateparks.utah.gov $10 per vehicle, $3 per pedestrian.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
HIKING
Antelope Island State Park offers plenty of space for the avid hiker to explore, but keep a few things in mind. All trails are also shared by mountain bikers and horseback riders—not to mention the occasional bison. Trees are few and far between on the island, making for high exposure to the elements, so bring (and drink) plenty of water and dress appropriately. In the spring, biting insects make bug repellent a must-have. Pick up a trail map at the visitor center.
Once you’re prepared, hiking Antelope Island can be a very enjoyable experience. Trails are fairly level except for a few places, where the hot summer sun makes the climb even more strenuous. Mountain ranges, including the Wasatch Front to the east and the Stansbury Mountains directly to the west, provide beautiful background in every direction, though haze sometimes obscures the view. Aromatic sage plants offer shelter for a variety of wildlife, so don’t be startled if your next step flushes a chukar partridge, horned lark, or jackrabbit. A bobcat is a rarely seen island resident that will likely keep its distance.
MOUNTAIN AND ROAD BIKING
Bountiful Bicycle Center. Bountiful Bicycle Center rents mountain and road bikes and offers great advice on trails. 2482 S. U.S. 89, Woods Cross 801/295–6711 www.bountifulbicycle.com.
WHERE TO EAT
You’ll pass a smorgasbord of fast-food outlets in Davis County north of Salt Lake City, including most of the national chain restaurants and a few that are found mainly in Utah. Unless you go as far north as Ogden, there aren’t too many choices.
Island Buffalo Grill. $ BURGER Some people may have an issue with eating buffalo burgers on a bison sanctuary, but they don’t know what they’re missing. No frills here, but there is an unparalleled view. Known for: buffalo burgers; spectacular views. Average main: $8 Antelope Island Rd., 4528 W. 1700 S, Syracuse 801/897–3452 No dinner. Closed Nov.–Feb.
Roosters Brewing Company. $$ BURGER Even in conservative Davis County north of Salt Lake City, you can find one couple with a passion for beer and quality brewpub fare. The original Roosters is farther north in Ogden, but for nearly a decade, the Layton location has served the array of Roosters beers (from stouts to pale ales), accompanied by individual-size pizzas, full-meal salads, burgers, and pasta. Known for: homemade root beer; Naughty fries. Average main: $15 748 W. Heritage Park Blvd., Layton 801/774–9330 www.roostersbrewingco.com.
28 miles south of Salt Lake City.
Heading south toward ultraconservative Utah County (home of Brigham Young University), make Thanksgiving Point your first stop. Founded by WordPerfect computing giant Alan Ashton, Thanksgiving Point is home to museums, gardens, championship golf, restaurants, and a movie theater.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Thanksgiving Point is centrally located about halfway between Salt Lake City and Provo just off Interstate 15 at the Point of the Mountain. Look for the water tower, which can be seen from the freeway. From Salt Lake City, take Interstate 15 south to Exit 284 (Alpine/Highland). Turn right and proceed west to the light. Turn left onto Thanksgiving Way and proceed ½ mile to Water Tower Plaza.
EXPLORING
Thanksgiving Point. FAMILY Founded by the Ashton family (Alan Ashton founded computer-software giant WordPerfect), Thanksgiving Point is now an ever-evolving destination for all visitors to enjoy. Wander among 60 dinosaur skeletons in the Museum of Ancient Life; play golf on an 18-hole Johnny Miller–designed course; or meditate in 55 acres of carefully landscaped gardens. There are also farm animals, shops, restaurants, and a movie theater. The museum is open year-round, but gardens and other attractions are seasonal. 3003 N. Thanksgiving Way, Lehi 801/768–2300, 801/768–2300 www.thanksgivingpoint.com $15 museum, $15 gardens, $8 Farm Country Closed Sun.
SHOPPING
PLAZAS AND MALLS
Outlets at Traverse Mountain. Utah’s newest outlet mall has some of the top names in retail, including Nike, Gap, J.Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren, Coach, and Michael Kors. 3700 N. Cabelas Blvd., Lehi 801/901–1200 www.outletsattraversemountain.com.
36 miles from Salt Lake City.
Although visitors of all ages and abilities can find easy exploring in the canyons surrounding the Wasatch Front, Timpanogos Cave is suitable only for robust and prepared hikers. The journey is well worth it.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
From Salt Lake City, take Interstate 15 to Exit 284 (Alpine/Highland exit), then turn east on State Highway 92 for 10 miles to the monument. The highway runs east—west through the monument.
EXPLORING
Timpanogos Cave National Monument. Soaring to 11,750 feet, Mount Timpanogos is the centerpiece of a wilderness area of the same name and towers over Timpanogos Cave National Monument along Highway 92 within American Fork Canyon. After a strenuous hike up the paved 1½-mile trail to the entrance, you can explore three caves connected by two man-made tunnels. Stalactites, stalagmites, and other formations make the three-hour round-trip hike and tour worth the effort. No refreshments are available on the trail or at the cave, and the cave temperature is 45°F throughout the year, so bring water and warm clothes. Although there’s some lighting inside the caves, a flashlight will make your explorations more interesting; it will also come in handy should you have to head back down the trail at dusk. These popular tours are often sold out; to guarantee your place on Saturday and holidays, purchase tickets in advance. 2038 Alpine Loop Rd., American Fork 801/756–5239 cave info, 801/756–5238 advance tickets www.nps.gov/tica $8 Closed Nov.–Apr.
Alpine Loop Scenic Byway. Beyond Timpanogos Cave, Highway 92 continues up American Fork Canyon before branching off to climb behind Mount Timpanogos itself. Designated the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, this winding road offers stunning mountain views and fall foliage in the latter months before dropping into Provo Canyon to the south. The 9-mile Timpooneke Trail and the 8-mile Aspen Trail, both off the byway, reach the summit of Mount Timpanogos. Closed in winter, the Alpine Loop isn’t recommended for motor homes and trucks pulling trailers. This is the roundabout way to get to scenic Provo Canyon from I–15; the more direct route is U.S. 189 east from Orem (stop by Bridal Veil Falls on your way in). Provo utah.com/scenic-drive/alpine-loop.