TOP REASONS TO GO
The Waterpocket Fold: See an excellent example of a monocline—a fold in the Earth’s crust with one very steep side in an area that is otherwise horizontal. This one’s almost 100 miles long.
No crowds: Experience the best of southern Utah weather, rock formations, and wide open spaces without the crowds of nearby parks such as Zion and Bryce Canyon.
Fresh fruit: Pick apples, pears, apricots, and peaches in season at the pioneer-planted orchards at historic Fruita. These trees still produce plenty of fruit.
Rock art: View pictographs and petroglyphs left by Native Americans who lived in this area from AD 700 to 1300.
Pioneer artifacts: Buy faithfully reproduced tools and utensils like those used by Mormon pioneers at the Gifford Homestead.
Fruita. This historic pioneer village is at the heart of what most people see of Capitol Reef. The one and only park visitor center nearby is the place to get travel and weather information and maps. The scenic drive through Capitol Gorge provides a view of the Golden Throne.
Cathedral Valley. The views are stunning and the silence deafening in the park’s remote northern section. High-clearance vehicles are required, as is crossing the Fremont River. Driving in this valley is next to impossible when the Cathedral Valley Road is wet, so ask at the visitor center about current weather and road conditions.
Muley Twist Canyon. At the southern reaches of the park, this canyon is accessed via Notom-Bullfrog Road from the north, and Burr Trail Road from the west and southeast. High-clearance vehicles are required for much of it.
GETTING ORIENTED
At the heart of this 378-square-mile park is the massive natural feature known as the Waterpocket Fold, which runs roughly northwest to southeast along the park’s spine. Capitol Reef itself is named for a formation along the fold near the Fremont River. A historic pioneer settlement, the green oasis of Fruita is easily accessed by car, and a 9-mile scenic drive provides a good overview of the canyons and rock formations that populate the park. Colors here range from deep, rich reds to sage greens to crumbling gray sediments. The absence of large towns nearby ensures that night skies are brilliant starscapes.
Updated by John Blodgett
Capitol Reef National Park is a natural kaleidoscopic feast for the eyes, saturated with colors that are more dramatic than anywhere else in the West. The dominant Moenkopi rock formation is a rich, red-chocolate hue; deep blue-green juniper and pinyon stand out against it. Other sandstone layers are gold, ivory, and lavender. Sunset brings out the colors in an explosion of copper, platinum, and orange, then dusk turns the cliffs purple and blue. The texture of rock deposited in ancient inland seas and worn by subsequent erosion is pure art.
The park preserves the Waterpocket Fold, a giant wrinkle in the earth that extends 100 miles between Thousand Lake Mountain and Lake Powell. When you climb high onto the rocks or into the mountains, you can see this remarkable geologic wonder and the jumble of colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires, and twisting canyons that surround it. It’s no wonder Native Americans called this part of the country the “land of the sleeping rainbow.”
Beyond incredible sights, the fragrance of pine and sage rises from the earth, and canyon wrens sing to you as you sit by the water. Flowing across the heart of Capitol Reef is the Fremont River, a narrow little creek that can turn into a swollen, raging torrent during desert flash floods. The river sustains cottonwoods, wildlife, and verdant valleys rich with fruit. During the harvest, your sensory experience is complete when you bite into a perfect ripe peach or apple from the park’s orchards. Your soul, too, will be gratified here. You can walk the trails in relative solitude and enjoy the beauty without confronting crowds on the roads or paths. All around you are signs of those who came before: ancient Native Americans of the Fremont culture, Mormon pioneers who settled the land, and other courageous explorers who traveled the canyons.
WHEN TO GO
Spring and early summer are most bustling. Folks clear out in the midsummer heat, and then return for the apple harvest and crisp temperatures of autumn. Still, the park is seldom crowded—though the campground can fill quickly. Annual rainfall is scant, but when it does rain, flash floods can wipe out park roads. Snowfall is usually light. Sudden, short-lived snowstorms—and thunderstorms—are not uncommon in the spring.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
AUGUST
Wayne County Fair. FAMILY The great American county fair tradition is at its finest in Loa in mid-August. A demolition derby, rodeo, horse shows, and a parade are all part of the fun. You’ll also find crafts such as handmade quilts, agricultural exhibits, children’s games, and plenty of good food. 
435/836–1300 
waynecountyutah.org.
Women’s Redrock Music Festival. Held at the Robbers Roost Bookstore, this two-day event has been attracting independent female musicians from all corners of the globe, as well as hundreds of fans, since 2007. Run by the nonprofit Entrada Institute, a regional arts and education organization, the festival benefits Utah women through donations and scholarships. 
185 W. Main St., Torrey 435/425–3265 womensredrockmusicfest.com.
OCTOBER
Harvest Time Scarecrow Festival. Events for this month-long celebration marking the end of another busy season are held throughout Wayne County. In addition to a scarecrow contest, there are plenty of family-friendly events, including live music, arts and crafts, pumpkin carving, and a Halloween party. Torrey 435/425–3265 www.entradainstitute.org.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
CAPITOL REEF IN ONE DAY
Pack a picnic lunch, snacks, and cold drinks to take with you (there are no restaurants in the park). As you enter the park, look to your left for Chimney Rock; in a landscape of spires, cliffs, and knobs, this deep-red landmark is unmistakable. Start your journey at the visitor center, where you can study a three-dimensional map of the area, watch a short film, and browse the many books and maps related to the park. Then, head for the park’s scenic drive, stopping at the Fruita Historic District to see some of the sites associated with the park’s Mormon history. Visit Gifford Homestead for a tour and to browse the gift shop. That lunch you packed can be enjoyed at picnic tables on rolling green lawns lining both sides of the road between the orchard and Gifford Farmhouse.
Check out the Fremont Indian Petroglyphs, and if you feel like some exertion, take a hike on the Hickman Bridge Trail. From the trail (or 2 miles east of the visitor center from Highway 24 if you skip the hike), you’ll see Capitol Dome. Along this stretch of Highway 24 stop to see the old one-room Fruita Schoolhouse, the petroglyphs, and the Behunin Cabin. Next you’ll have to backtrack a few miles on Highway 24 to find the Goosenecks Trail. At the same parking lot you’ll find the trailhead for Sunset Point Trail; take this short hike in time to watch the setting sun hit the colorful cliffs.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
AIR TRAVEL
The nearest major airports are in Salt Lake City and Las Vegas, about 3½ and 5½ hours away by car, respectively.
BUS TRAVEL
Once inside the park, there is no shuttle service like there is at nearby Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks.
CAR TRAVEL
Though far from big cities, Capitol Reef country can be reached by a variety of approaches. The main high-speed arteries through the region are Interstates 70 and 15, but any route will require travel of some secondary roads such as U.S. 50, U.S. 89, Highway 24, or Route 72. All are well-maintained, safe roads that bisect rich agricultural communities steeped in Mormon history (such as the nearby towns of Bicknell and Loa). Interstate 15 is the fastest way through central Utah, but U.S. 89 and the local roads that feed onto it will give you a more direct path into Utah’s past and present-day character. Highway 24 runs across the middle of Capitol Reef National Park, offering scenic views for anyone passing through.
PARK ESSENTIALS
ACCESSIBILITY
Capitol Reef doesn’t have many trails that are accessible to people in wheelchairs. The visitor center, museum, film, and restrooms are all accessible, as is the campground amphitheater where evening programs are held. The Fruita Campground Loop C restroom is accessible; so is the boardwalk to the petroglyph panel on Highway 24, 1.2 miles east of the visitor center.
PARK FEES AND PERMITS
There is no fee to enter the park, but it’s $10 per vehicle (or $7 per bicycle) to travel on Scenic Drive beyond Fruita Campground; this fee is good for one week, paid via the “honor system” at a drop box versus a staffed entry gate. Backcountry camping permits are free; pick them up at the visitor center. An annual pass that allows unlimited access to Scenic Drive is $30.
PARK HOURS
The park is open 24/7 year-round. It is in the Mountain time zone.
CELL-PHONE RECEPTION
Cell-phone reception is best near the visitor center and campground areas. Pay phones are at the visitor center and at Fruita Campground.
EDUCATIONAL OFFERINGS
RANGER PROGRAMS
From late May to October, ranger programs are offered at no charge. You can obtain current information about ranger talks and other park events at the visitor center or campground bulletin boards.
Evening Program. FAMILY Learn about Capitol Reef’s geology, American Indian cultures, wildlife, and more at the campground amphitheater about a mile from the visitor center. Programs typically begin around sunset. A schedule with topics and times is posted at the visitor center. Amphitheater, Loop C, Fruita Campground, Scenic Dr. 435/425–3791.
Junior Ranger Program. FAMILY Each child who participates in this self-guided, year-round program completes a combination of activities in the Junior Ranger booklet, attends a ranger program, watches the park movie, interviews a park ranger, and/or picks up litter. National Park Visitor Center, 16 Scenic Dr. 435/425–3791 
Free.
Ranger Talks. FAMILY Typically, the park offers a daily morning geology talk at the visitor center and a daily afternoon petroglyph-panel talk. Occasional geology hikes and history tours are also sometimes offered. Times vary. National Park Visitor Center, 16 Scenic Rd. 435/425–3791 Free.
RESTAURANTS
Inside Capitol Reef you won’t find any restaurants, though there is a small store selling baked goods and ice cream. More dining options exist close by in the town of Torrey, where you can find everything from high-end Southwestern cuisine to basic hamburger joints serving consistently good food.
HOTELS
There are no lodging options within Capitol Reef, but clean and comfortable accommodations for all budgets exist in nearby Torrey, and not far beyond in Bicknell and Loa. Drive farther into the region’s towns, and you’re more likely to find locally owned low- to moderately priced motels, and a few nice inns and bed-and-breakfasts. Reservations are recommended in summer. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Park Contact Information Capitol Reef National Park. Off Hwy. 24 435/425–3791 nps.gov/care.
VISITOR CENTERS
Capitol Reef Visitor Center. FAMILY Watch a park movie, talk with rangers, or peruse the many books, maps, and materials for sale in the bookstore. Towering over the center (11 miles east of Torrey), is the Castle, one of the park’s most prominent rock formations. Hwy. 24 and Scenic Dr. 435/425–3791.
Capitol Reef Scenic Drive. FAMILY This 8-mile road, simply called Scenic Drive by locals, starts at the visitor center and winds its way through the Fruita Historic District and colorful sandstone cliffs into Capitol Gorge; a side road, Grand Wash Road, provides access into the canyon. At Capitol Gorge, the canyon walls become steep and impressive but the route becomes unpaved for about the last 2 miles, and road conditions may vary due to weather and usage. Check with the visitor center before setting out. Off Hwy. 24, 11 miles east of Torrey.
Behunin Cabin. FAMILY Elijah Cutlar Behunin used blocks of sandstone to build this cabin in 1882. Floods in the lowlands made life too difficult, and he moved before the turn of that century. The house, 5.9 miles east of the visitor center, is empty, but you can peek through the window to see the interior. Hwy. 24.
Capitol Dome. FAMILY One of the rock formations that gave the park its name, this giant sandstone dome is visible in the vicinity of the Hickman Bridge trailhead, 1.9 miles east of the visitor center. Hwy. 24.
Fodor’sChoice
Capitol Gorge. At the entrance to this gorge, 9 miles south of the visitor center, Scenic Drive is unpaved. The narrow, twisting road on the floor of the gorge was a route for pioneer wagons traversing this part of Utah starting in the 1860s. After every flash flood, pioneers would laboriously clear the route so wagons could continue to go through. The gorge became the main automobile route in the area until 1962, when Highway 24 was built. The short drive to the end of the road has striking views of the surrounding cliffs and leads to one of the park’s most popular walks: the hiking trail to the water-holding “tanks” eroded into the sandstone. Scenic Dr.
Chimney Rock. Even in a landscape of spires, cliffs, and knobs, this deep-red landform, 3.9 miles west of the visitor center, is unmistakable. Hwy. 24.
Fremont Petroglyphs. FAMILY Between AD 600 and 1300 the Capitol Reef area was occupied by Native Americans who were eventually referred to as Fremonts, named after the Fremont River that flows through the park. A nice stroll along a boardwalk bridge, 1.1 miles east of the visitor center, allows close-up views of ancient rock art, which can be identified by the large trapezoidal figures often depicted wearing headdresses and ear baubles. Hwy. 24.
Fruita Historic District. FAMILY In the 1880s Nels Johnson became the first homesteader in the Fremont River Valley, building his home near the confluence of Sulphur Creek and the Fremont River. Other Mormon settlers followed and established small farms and orchards, creating the village of Junction. The orchards thrived, and by 1900 the name was changed to Fruita. The orchards, less than a mile from the visitor center, are preserved and protected as a Rural Historic Landscape. Scenic Dr.
Pioneer Register. Travelers passing through Capitol Gorge in the 19th and early 20th centuries etched the canyon wall with their names and the date. Directly across the canyon from the Pioneer Register and about 50 feet up are signatures etched into the canyon wall by an early United States Geologic Survey crew. Though it’s illegal to write or scratch on the canyon walls today, plenty of damage has been done by vandals over the years. You can reach the register via an easy hike from the sheltered trailhead at the end of Capitol Gorge Road, 10.3 miles south of the visitor center; the register is about 10 minutes along the hike to the sandstone “tanks.” Off Scenic Dr.
The Waterpocket Fold. A giant wrinkle in the earth extends almost 100 miles between Thousand Lake Mountain and Lake Powell. You can glimpse the fold by driving south on Scenic Drive after it branches off Highway 24, past the Fruita Historic District. For complete immersion enter the park via the 36-mile Burr Trail from Boulder. Roads through the southernmost reaches of the park are largely unpaved. The area is accessible to most vehicles during dry weather, but check with the visitor center for current road conditions. Capitol Reef National Park.
The main outdoor activity at Capitol Reef is hiking. There are trails for all levels. Remember to bring and drink plenty of water wherever you go in Capitol Reef.
Hondoo Rivers & Trails. This tour company has been providing high-quality backcountry trips into Capitol Reef National Park, Escalante Canyons, and the High Plateaus for 40 years. From April to October, they’ll take you on hiking, horseback-riding, and Jeep day tours. Trips are designed to explore the geologic landforms in the area, seek out wildflowers in season, and to encounter free-roaming mustangs, bison, and bighorn sheep when possible. Multiday trips can also be arranged. 90 E. Main St., Torrey 435/425–3519 www.hondoo.com From $120.
Bicycles are allowed only on established roads in the park. Highway 24 is a state highway and receives a substantial amount of through traffic, so it’s not the best place to pedal. Scenic Drive is better, but the road is narrow, and you have to contend with drivers dazed by the beautiful surroundings. In fact, it’s a good idea to traverse it in the morning or evening when traffic is reduced, or in the off-season. Four-wheel-drive roads are certainly less traveled, but they are often sandy, rocky, and steep. You cannot ride your bicycle in washes or on hiking trails.
■ Capitol Reef: Canyon Country Eden, by Rose Houk, is an award-winning collection of photographs and lyrical essays on the park.
■ Dwellers of the Rainbow, Fremont Culture in Capitol Reef National Park, by Rose Houk, offers a brief background of the Fremont culture in Capitol Reef.
■ Explore Capitol Reef Trails, by Marjorie Miller and John Foster, is a comprehensive hiking guide.
■ Geology of Capitol Reef National Park, by Michael Collier, teaches the basic geology of the park.
■ Red Rock Eden, by George Davidson, tells the story of historic Fruita, its settlements, and its orchards.
Cathedral Valley Scenic Backway. Located in the remote north of the park, you can enjoy solitude and a true backcountry ride on this trail. The entire route is about 58 miles long and can be accessed at Caineville, off Highway 24, or at River Ford Road, 5 miles west of Caineville; for a multiday trip, there’s a primitive campground about midway through the loop. Off Hwy. 24.
South Draw Road. This is a very strenuous ride that traverses dirt, sand, and rocky surfaces, and crosses several creeks that may be muddy. It’s not recommended in winter or spring because of deep snow at higher elevations. The route starts at an elevation of 8,600 feet on Boulder Mountain, 13 miles south of Torrey, and ends 15¾ miles later at 5,500 feet in the Pleasant Creek parking area at the end of Scenic Drive. Bowns Reservoir Rd. and Hwy. 12.
You can explore Capitol Reef in a 4X4 on a number of exciting backcountry routes. Road conditions can vary greatly depending on recent weather patterns.
Cathedral Valley Scenic Backway. The north end of Capitol Reef, along this backcountry road, is filled with towering monoliths, panoramic vistas, two water crossings, and a stark desert landscape. The area is remote and the road through it unpaved, so do not enter without a high-clearance vehicle, some planning, and a cell phone (although reception is virtually nonexistent). The drive through the valley is a 58-mile loop that you can begin at River Ford Road, 11¾ miles east of the visitor center off Highway 24; allow half a day. If your time is limited, you can tour only the Caineville Wash Road, which takes about two hours. Pick up a self-guided auto tour brochure at the visitor center. River Ford Rd., off Hwy. 24.
Many park trails in Capitol Reef include steep climbs, but there are a few easy-to-moderate hikes. A short drive from the visitor center takes you to a dozen trails, and a park ranger can advise you on combining trails or locating additional routes.
EASY
Goosenecks Trail. This nice little walk gives you a good introduction to the land surrounding Capitol Reef. Enjoy the dizzying views from the overlook on this 0.3-mile round-trip jaunt. Easy. Capitol Reef National Park 
Trailhead: at Hwy. 24, about 3 miles west of visitor center.
Grand Wash Trail. At the end of unpaved Grand Wash Road you can continue on foot through the canyon to its end at Highway 24. This flat hike takes you through a wide wash between canyon walls, and is an excellent place to study the geology up close. The round-trip hike is 4½ miles; allow two to three hours for your walk. Check at the ranger station for flash-flood warnings before entering the wash. Easy. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: at Hwy. 24, east of Hickman Bridge parking lot, or at end of Grand Wash Rd., off Scenic Dr. about 5 miles from visitor center.
Sunset Point Trail. The trail starts from the same parking lot as the Goosenecks Trail. Benches along this easy hike (0.8 mile round-trip) invite you to sit and meditate surrounded by the colorful desert. At the trail’s end you’ll be rewarded with broad vistas into the park; it’s even better at sunset. Easy. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: at Hwy. 24, about 3 miles west of visitor center.
MODERATE
Capitol Gorge Trail and the Tanks. Starting at the Pioneer Register, about a mile from the Capitol Gorge parking lot, is a trail that climbs to the Tanks—holes in the sandstone, formed by erosion, that hold water after it rains. After a scramble up about ¼ mile of steep trail with cliff drop-offs, you can look down into the Tanks and see a natural bridge below the lower tank. Including the walk to the Pioneer Register, allow an hour or more for this interesting hike, one of the park’s most popular. Moderate. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: at end of Scenic Dr., 10 miles south of visitor center.
Cohab Canyon Trail. FAMILY Find rock wrens and Western pipistrelles (canyon bats) on this trail. One end is directly across from the Fruita Campground on Scenic Drive; the other is across from the Hickman Bridge parking lot. The first ¼ mile from Fruita is strenuous, but the walk becomes easier except for turnoffs to the overlooks, which are short. You’ll find miniature arches, skinny side canyons, and honeycombed patterns on canyon walls where the wrens make nests. The trail is 3.2 miles round-trip to the Hickman Bridge parking lot (two to three hours). The Overlook Trail adds 1 mile. Allow one to two hours to overlooks and back. Moderate. Capitol Reef National Park Trailheads: Scenic Dr., about 1 mile south of visitor center, or Hwy. 24, about 2 miles east of visitor center.
Fremont River Trail. What starts as a quiet little stroll beside the river turns into an adventure. The first ½ mile of the trail is wheelchair accessible as you wander past the orchards next to the Fremont River. After you pass through a narrow gate, the trail changes personality and you’re in for a steep climb on an exposed ledge with drop-offs. The views at the top of the 480-foot ascent are worth it. It’s 2 miles round-trip; allow two hours. Moderate. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: near amphitheater off Loop C of Fruita Campground, about 1 mile from visitor center.
Hickman Bridge Trail. This trail leads to a natural bridge of Kayenta sandstone, with a 133-foot opening carved by intermittent flash floods. Early on, the route climbs a set of steps along the Fremont River. The trail splits, leading along the right-hand branch to a strenuous uphill climb to the Rim Overlook and Navajo Knobs. Stay to your left to see the bridge, and you’ll encounter a moderate up-and-down trail. Up the wash on your way to the bridge is a Fremont granary on the right side of the small canyon. Allow about two hours for the 2-mile round-trip. Expect lots of company. Moderate. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: Hwy. 24, 2 miles east of visitor center.
DIFFICULT
Chimney Rock Trail. You’re almost sure to see ravens drifting on thermal winds around the deep-red Mummy Cliff that rings the base of this trail. This loop trail begins with a steep climb to a rim above Chimney Rock. The trail is 3.6 miles round-trip, with a 590-foot elevation change. No shade. Use caution during monsoon storms due to lightning hazards. Allow three to four hours. Difficult. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: Hwy. 24, about 3 miles west of visitor center.
Golden Throne Trail. As you hike to the base of the Golden Throne, you may be lucky enough to see one of the park’s elusive desert bighorn sheep, but you’re more likely to spot their split-hoof tracks. The trail is about 2 miles of gradual rise with some steps and drop-offs. The Golden Throne is hidden until you near the end of the trail, then suddenly you see the huge sandstone monolith. If you hike near sundown the throne burns gold. The round-trip hike is about 3.8 miles and will take two to three hours. Difficult. Capitol Reef National Park Trailhead: at end of Capitol Gorge Rd., 10 miles south of visitor center.
Probably the best home base for exploring the park, the pretty town of Torrey, just outside the park, has lots of personality. Giant old cottonwood trees make it a shady, cool place to stay, and the townspeople are friendly and accommodating. A little farther west on Highway 24, tiny Teasdale is a charming settlement cradled in a cove of the Aquarius Plateau. The homes look out onto brilliantly colored cliffs and green fields. Quiet Bicknell lies another few miles west of Capitol Reef. The Wayne County seat of Loa, 10 miles west of Torrey, was settled by pioneers in the 1870s. If you head south from Torrey instead of west, you can take a spectacular 32-mile drive along Highway 12 to Boulder, a town so remote that its mail was carried on horseback until 1940. Nearby is Anasazi State Park. In the opposite direction, 51 miles east, Hanksville is a place to stop for food and fuel stop.
Visitor Information Garfield County Office of Tourism. 55 S. Main St., Panguitch 800/444–6689, 435/676–8585 www.brycecanyoncountry.com. Wayne County Office of Tourism. 435/425–3365, 800/858–7951 www.capitolreef.org.
Anasazi State Park. FAMILY This former archaeological site includes portions of an Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) village occupied sometime between AD 1160 and 1235, a small but informative museum with artifacts discovered on-site, and a reconstructed pueblo dwelling. 460 N. Hwy. 12, Boulder 435/335–7308 stateparks.utah.gov $5.
Goblin Valley State Park. FAMILY Strange-looking “hoodoos” rise up from the desert landscape 12 miles north of Hanksville, making Goblin Valley home to hundreds of strange goblin-like rock formations with a dramatic orange hue. Short, easy trails wind through the goblins making it a fun walk for kids and adults. Hwy. 24 435/275–4584 stateparks.utah.gov $13 per vehicle.
Fodor’sChoice San Rafael Swell. Tremendous geological upheavals pushed through the Earth’s surface eons ago, forming a giant oval-shape dome of rock about 80 miles long and 30 miles wide, giving rise to the name “swell.” Over the years, the harsh climate beat down the dome, eroding it into a wild array of multicolor sandstone and creating buttes, pinnacles, mesas, and canyons that spread across more than 600,000 acres. In the northern Swell, the Wedge Overlook peers into the Little Grand Canyon and the San Rafael River below. The strata at the edges of the southern Swell are angled near vertical, creating the San Rafael Reef. Both are known for fantastic hiking, canyoneering, and mountain biking. 125 S. 600 W, Price 435/636–3600 www.blm.gov/ut.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
FISHING
Fishlake National Forest. At an elevation of 8,800 feet is Fish Lake, which lies in the heart of its namesake 1.4-million-acre forest. The area has several campgrounds and wonderful lodges. The lake is stocked annually with lake and rainbow trout, mackinaw, and splake. A large population of brown trout is native to the lake. The Fremont River Ranger District office (138 S. Main St., Loa) can provide all the information you need for fishing, camping, and hiking in the forest. Off Hwy. 24 435/836–9233 www.fs.usda.gov/fishlake.
Alpine Adventures. With a stellar reputation for personalized attention during fly-fishing trips into the high backcountry around Capitol Reef and the Fremont River, Alpine Adventures also leads trophy hunting tours. Torrey 435/425–3660 alpineadventuresutah.com From $225.
Burr Trail Scenic Backway. Branching east off Highway 12 in Boulder, Burr Trail travels through the Circle Cliffs area of Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument into Capitol Reef. The views are of backcountry canyons and gulches. The road is paved between Boulder and the eastern boundary of Capitol Reef. It leads into a hair-raising set of switchbacks—not suitable for RVs or trailers—that ascend 800 feet in ½ mile. Before attempting to drive this route, check with the Capitol Reef Visitor Center for road conditions. From Boulder to its intersection with Notom-Bullfrog Road the route is 36 miles long. Off Hwy. 12, Boulder www.scenicbyway12.com.
Utah Scenic Byway 24. For 62 miles between Loa and Hanksville, you’ll cut right through Capitol Reef National Park. Colorful rock formations in all their hues of red, cream, pink, gold, and deep purple extend from one end of the route to the other. The closer you get to the park the more colorful the landscape becomes. The vibrant rock finally gives way to lush green hills and the mountains west of Loa.
PERFORMING ARTS
Robbers Roost. This shop, named after Butch Cassidy’s hideout, is home base for the Entrada Institute, an alliance of arts and outdoors enthusiasts that holds musical events and talks, usually on Saturday nights, from May through October. The annual women’s music festival, held each August, attracts more than 600 attendees to hear performance art, blues, rock, jazz, and folk. 185 W. Main St. (Hwy. 24), Torrey 435/425–3265 robbersroostbooks.com.
Flute Shop Trading Post. Unique and unexpected, the nifty Flute Shop, open year-round, sells American Indian jewelry, rocks, fossils, and flutes, handcrafted by owner Vance Morrill. A quiet and inexpensive four-unit motel has been added to the premises. You’ll find it 4 miles south of the junction of Highways 12 and 24. 1705 S. Scenic Rte. 12, Torrey 435/425–3144 www.fluteshopmotel.com.
Gallery 24. This pleasing space sells contemporary fine art from southern Utah–based artists that includes paintings, photography, ceramics, and sculpture. 135 E. Main St., Torrey 435/425–2124 www.gallery24.biz 
Closed Nov.–Mar.
Torrey Gallery. Located in a pioneer home off Main Street, this lovely gallery specializes in regional art. Its offerings include paintings, sculpture, and photographs, as well as antique and contemporary Navajo rugs discovered by the longtime collectors who own the gallery. 160 W. Main St., Torrey 435/425–3909 torreygallery.com.
Torrey Trading Post. FAMILY Come here for Native American jewelry and pottery, T-shirts, wood carvings, stone figures, gifts for children, and more. The trading post also has a handful of deluxe and camping cabins for lodging. 25 W. Main St., Torrey 435/425–3716 torreytradingpost.com.
Fodor’sChoice 
Cafe Diablo. $$$ AMERICAN Nestled in the tiny hamlet of Torrey is one of the better restaurants in the state, with innovative Southwestern fare that has included dishes such as rosemary and pine nut-crusted beef sirloin, and pumpkin seed trout. Visit the dining room to see work of local artists, or enjoy the peaceful patio surrounded by gardens and a view of distant red-rock mountains. Known for: rattlesnake cakes; delicious desserts; tequila list. 
Average main: $26 599 W. Main St. (Hwy. 24), Torrey 435/425–3070 cafediablo.net 
Closed late Oct.–early Apr.
Capitol Reef Café. $$ AMERICAN For a varied selection of solid and healthy fare, visit this unpretentious eatery. Favorites include the vegetable salad and the flaky smoked or grilled fillet of rainbow trout, and the breakfasts are both delicious and hearty. Known for: hearty breakfasts; friendly service; guide books. Average main: $14 360 W. Main St. (Hwy. 24), Torrey 435/425–3271 capitolreefinn.com Closed late Oct.–mid-Mar.
Fodor’sChoice Hell’s Backbone Grill. $$$ ECLECTIC On the grounds of the Boulder Mountain Lodge and voted Best Restaurant in Southern Utah for eight years in a row by Salt Lake Magazine, this remote eatery is worth the drive. The menu is inspired by American Indian, Western range, Southwestern, and Mormon pioneer recipes. Known for: peaceful vibe; farm-fresh ingredients; Thanksgiving feast. Average main: $25 20 N. Hwy. 12, Boulder 435/335–7464 www.hellsbackbonegrill.com Closed Dec.–early Mar.
Stan’s Burger Shak. $ FAST FOOD This is the traditional pit stop between Lake Powell and Capitol Reef, featuring great burgers, fries, a generous selection of flavored shakes, and the best homemade onion rings around. Keep in mind it generally closes for the winter. Known for: homemade onion rings; thick shakes; homestyle burgers. Average main: $8 140 S. Hwy. 95, Hanksville 435/542–3330 www.stansburgershak.com Closed Dec.–early to mid-Feb.
BEST CAMPGROUNDS IN CAPITOL REEF
Campgrounds in Capitol Reef fill up fast between Memorial Day and Labor Day, though that goes mainly for the highly convenient Fruita Campground, and not the more remote backcountry sites. Most of the area’s state parks have camping facilities, and the region’s two national forests offer many wonderful sites.
Cathedral Valley Campground. This small, basic (no water, pit toilet), no-fee campground in the park’s remote northern district touts sprawling views, but the bumpy road there is hard to navigate. Hartnet Junction, on Caineville Wash Rd. 435/425–3791.
Cedar Mesa Campground. Wonderful views of the Waterpocket Fold and Henry Mountains surround this primitive, no-fee campground in the park’s southern district. Notom-Bullfrog Rd., 22 miles south of Hwy. 24 435/425–3791.
Fruita Campground. Near the orchards and the Fremont River, the park’s developed (flush toilets, running water), shady campground is a great place to call home for a few days. The sites require a $20 nightly fee and those nearest the Fremont River or the orchards are the most coveted. Scenic Dr., about 1 mile south of visitor center 435/425–3791.
Muley Twist Inn. $$ B&B/INN This gorgeous inn sits on 15 acres of land, with expansive views of the colorful landscape in just about every direction. Pros: dramatic setting against a beautiful rock cliff; knowledgeable and friendly owner; all rooms have private baths. Cons: a bit removed from civilization. Rooms from: $145 249 W. 125 South St., Teasdale 435/425–3640, 800/530–1038 www.muleytwistinn.com Closed Nov.–Mar. 
5 rooms 
Breakfast.
Rim Rock Inn. $ HOTEL On a bluff with outstanding views into the desert, this motel was the first one to accommodate visitors to Capitol Reef. Pros: immaculate rooms; pub and fine dining restaurant on-site; breakfast included. Cons: a bit removed from town; no shade. Rooms from: $94 2523 E. Hwy. 24, Torrey 435/425–3398 therimrock.net Closed Nov.–Mar. 19 rooms Breakfast.
SkyRidge Inn Bed and Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN Each of the inn’s windows offers an exceptional year-round view of the desert and mountains surrounding Capitol Reef National Park. Pros: cozy; close to gas station and other amenities; local artwork and unique decor. Cons: rooms fill quickly in high season. Rooms from: $170 1092 E. Hwy 24, Torrey 435/425–3775 skyridgeinn.com 6 rooms Breakfast.