TOP REASONS TO GO
Hoodoo heaven: The brashly colored, gravity-defying limestone tentacles reaching skyward—known locally as “hoodoos”—are the main attraction of Bryce Canyon.
Famous fresh air: With some of the clearest skies anywhere, the park offers views that, on a clear day, extend 200 miles and into three states.
Spectacular sunrises and sunsets: The deep orange and crimson hues of the park’s hoodoos are intensified by the light of the sun at either end of the day.
Dramatically different zones: From the highest point of the rim to the canyon base, the park spans 2,000 feet, so you can explore three unique climatic zones: spruce-fir forest, ponderosa-pine forest, and pinyon pine-juniper forest.
Snowy fun: Bryce gets an average of 95 inches of snowfall a year, and is a popular destination for skiers and snowshoe enthusiasts.
Bryce Amphitheater. It’s the heart of the park. From here you can access the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge as well as Sunrise, Sunset, and Inspiration points. Walk to Bryce Point at sunrise to view the mesmerizing collection of massive hoodoos known as Silent City.
Under-the-Rim Trail. This 23-mile trail is the best way to reach Bryce Canyon backcountry. It can be a challenging three-day adventure or a half day of fun via one of the four access points from the main road. A handful of primitive campgrounds lines the route.
Rainbow and Yovimpa Points. The end of the scenic road, but not of the scenery, here you can hike a trail to see some ancient bristlecone pines and look south into Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument.
GETTING ORIENTED
Bryce Canyon National Park actually isn’t a single canyon, but rather a series of natural amphitheaters on the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. The park’s scenic drive runs along a formation known as the Pink Cliffs and offers more than a dozen amazing overlooks. Many visitors drive to the end of the 18-mile road and turn around before allowing their jaws to drop in wonder. (It’s practical, too, as the scenic overlooks will then be on the right side of the road, making it easy to pull over.) The main park road leads to the most popular hiking trails, which wind their way down into the canyons. A handful of roads veers to the east of the scenic drive to access other points of interest. As relief from the frequent heavy (and slow) traffic during the high season of summer, consider riding in one of the park’s shuttle buses.
Updated by John Blodgett
A land that captures the imagination and the heart, Bryce is a favorite among Utah’s national parks. Although its splendor had been well known for decades, Bryce Canyon wasn’t designated a national park until 1928. The park is named for Ebenezer Bryce, a pioneer cattleman and the first permanent settler in the area. His description of the landscape not being hospitable to cows has oft been repeated. Even more than his famous quote, however, Bryce Canyon is known for its fanciful “hoodoos,” best viewed at sunrise or sunset, when the light plays off the red rock.
In geological terms, Bryce is actually an amphitheater, not a canyon. The hoodoos in the amphitheater took on their unusual shapes because the top layer of rock—“cap rock”—is harder than the layers below it. If erosion undercuts the soft rock beneath the cap too much, the hoodoo will tumble. Bryce continues to evolve today, but the hoodoos are a permanent feature; old ones may die, but new ones are constantly forming as the amphitheater rim recedes.
WHEN TO GO
Around Bryce Canyon National Park and the nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument area, elevations approach and surpass 9,000 feet, making for temperamental weather, intermittent and seasonal road closures due to snow, and downright cold nights well into June. The air is cooler on the rim of the canyon than it is at lower altitudes. 
TIP → If you choose to see Bryce Canyon in summer, you’ll be visiting with the rest of the world. During these months, traffic on the main road can be crowded with cars following slow-moving RVs, so consider taking one of the park shuttle buses.
If it’s solitude you’re looking for, come to Bryce any time between October and March. The park is open all year long, so if you come during the cooler months you might just have a trail all to yourself.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
FEBRUARY
Bryce Canyon Winter Festival. FAMILY This event at the Best Western Ruby’s Inn features cross-country ski races, snow-sculpting contests, ski archery, and ice-skating. Clinics to hone skills such as snowshoeing and photography also take place, and there’s entertainment, too. 
435/834–5341 
www.rubysinn.com.
Quilt Walk Festival. During the bitter winter of 1864, Panguitch residents set out over the mountains to fetch provisions from the town of Parowan, 40 miles away. Legend says the men, frustrated and ready to turn back, laid a quilt on the snow and knelt to pray. Soon they realized the quilt had kept them from sinking into the snow. Spreading quilts before them as they walked, leapfrog style, the men traveled to Parowan and back. This four-day event in June commemorates the event with quilting classes, a tour of pioneer homes, tractor pull, dinner-theater, and other events. 435/690–9228.
Fodor’sChoice
Utah Shakespeare Festival. For more than 50 years, Cedar City has gone Bard-crazy, staging productions of Shakespeare’s plays June through October in theaters both indoors and outdoors at Southern Utah University. The Tony award–winning regional theater offers literary seminars, backstage tours, cabarets featuring festival actors, and an outdoor preshow with Elizabethan performers. A new center for the arts, including the open-air Engelstad Shakespeare Theatre, made its debut during the 2016 season. It helps to reserve in advance as many performances sell out. 435/586–7878 www.bard.org.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
BRYCE CANYON IN ONE DAY
Begin your day at the visitor center to get an overview of the park and to purchase books and maps. Watch the 20-minute film and peruse exhibits about the natural and cultural history of Bryce Canyon. Then, drive to the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge. From here, stroll along the relaxing Rim Trail. If you have the time and stamina to walk into the amphitheater, the portion of the Rim Trail near the lodge gets you to the starting point for either of the park’s two essential hikes, the Navajo Loop Trail from Sunset Point or the Queen’s Garden Trail that connects Sunset to Sunrise Point.
Afterward (or if you skip the hike), drive the 18-mile main park road, stopping at the overlooks along the way. Allowing for traffic, and if you stop at all 13 overlooks, this drive will take you between two and three hours.
If you have the time for more walking, a short, rolling hike along the Bristlecone Loop Trail at Rainbow Point rewards you with spectacular views and a cool walk through a forest of bristlecone pines. If you don’t have time to drive the 18 miles to the end of the park, skip Bryce Canyon Lodge and drive 2 miles from the visitor center to Inspiration Point and then to the next overlook, Bryce Point.
End your day with sunset at Inspiration Point or dinner at Bryce Canyon Lodge. As you leave the park, stop at Ruby’s Inn for American Indian jewelry, souvenirs for the kids, and groceries or snacks for the road.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
AIR TRAVEL
The nearest commercial airport to Bryce Canyon is 80 miles west in Cedar City, Utah.
BUS TRAVEL
A shuttle bus system operates in Bryce Canyon from late April through September. Buses start at 8 am and run every 10 to 15 minutes, and are free with your admission fee. The route begins at Ruby’s Inn and Ruby’s Campground outside the park entrance and stops at the visitor center, lodge, campgrounds, and all the main overlooks and trailheads.
CAR TRAVEL
The closest major cities to Bryce Canyon are Salt Lake City and Las Vegas, each about 270 miles away. The park is reached via Route 63, just 3 miles south of the junction with Highway 12. You can see the park’s highlights by driving along the well-maintained road running the length of the main scenic area. Bryce has no restrictions on automobiles on the main road, but in the summer you may encounter heavy traffic and full parking lots.
PARK ESSENTIALS
ACCESSIBILITY
Most park facilities were constructed between 1930 and 1960. Some have been upgraded for wheelchair accessibility, while others can be used with some assistance. The Sunset campground offers two sites with wheelchair access. Few of the trails, however, can be managed in a standard wheelchair due to the sandy, rocky, or uneven terrain. The section of the Rim Trail between Sunrise and Inspiration points is wheelchair accessible. The 1-mile Bristlecone Loop Trail at Rainbow Point has a hard surface and could be used with assistance, but several grades do not meet standards. Accessible parking is marked at all overlooks and public facilities.
PARK FEES
The entrance fee is $30 per vehicle for a seven-day pass and $15 for pedestrians or bicyclists, and includes unlimited use of the park shuttle. An annual Bryce Canyon park pass, good for one year from the date of purchase, costs $35. If you leave your private vehicle outside the park at the shuttle staging area or Ruby’s Inn, the one-time entrance fee is $30 per party and includes transportation on the shuttle.
A $5 backcountry permit, available from the visitor center, is required for camping in the park’s interior, allowed only on Under-the-Rim Trail and Rigg’s Spring Loop, both south of Bryce Point. Campfires are not permitted.
PARK HOURS
The park is open 24/7, year-round. It’s in the Mountain time zone.
AUTOMOBILE SERVICE STATIONS
Just outside the park you can fuel up, get your oil and tires changed, and have car repairs done.
CELL-PHONE RECEPTION
Cell-phone reception is hit-and-miss in the park, with the visitor center and lodge your best bet. If you’re getting reception, take advantage of it and make your calls. Bryce Canyon Lodge, Bryce Canyon Pines General Store, Ruby’s Inn, Sunset Campground, and the visitor center all have public telephones.
EDUCATIONAL OFFERINGS
RANGER PROGRAMS
Campfire and Auditorium Programs. Bryce Canyon’s natural diversity comes alive in the park’s North Campground amphitheater, the Visitor Center Theater, or in the Bryce Canyon Lodge Auditorium. Lectures, multimedia programs, and ranger walks introduce you to geology, astronomy, wildlife, history, and many other topics related to Bryce Canyon and the West. 
Bryce Canyon National Park 435/834–5322.
Full Moon Hike. Rangers lead guided hikes on the nights around each full moon (two per month May–October). You must wear heavy-traction shoes, and reserve a spot on the day of the hike. In peak season the tickets are distributed through a lottery system. Bryce Canyon National Park www.nps.gov.
Geology Talk. Rangers regularly host discussions about the long geological history of Bryce Canyon; they are nearly always held at Sunset Point. Talks are free and last 30 minutes. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Junior Ranger Program. FAMILY Children ages three and over can sign up to be Junior Rangers at the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. The park takes that title seriously, so kids have to complete several activities in their free Junior Ranger booklet, as well as collect some litter, and attend a ranger program. Allow three to six hours for all this. Ask a ranger about each day’s schedules of events and topics, or look for postings at the visitor center, Bryce Canyon Lodge, and campground bulletin boards. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Fodor’sChoice Night Sky Program. City folk are lucky to see 2,500 stars in their artificially illuminated skies, but out here among the hoodoos you see three times as many. The Night Sky Program includes low-key astronomy lectures and multimedia presentations, followed by telescope viewing (weather permitting). The program is typically offered on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, May through September. Check with the visitor center for locations, times, and other details. Bryce Canyon National Park 435/834–4747 
Free.
Rim Walk. Join a park ranger for a ½-mile, hour-long stroll along the gorgeous rim of Bryce Canyon starting at the Sunset Point overlook. Reservations are not required for the walk, which is usually offered daily from May to September. Start time is usually 5 pm. Check with the visitor center for details. Bryce Canyon National Park Free.
RESTAURANTS
Dining options in the park proper are limited to Bryce Canyon Lodge; the nearby Ruby’s Inn complex is your best eating bet before you pay to enter the park. The restaurants in nearby locales tend to be of the meat-and-potatoes variety. Utah’s drinking laws can be confusing, so ask your server what is available: beer is more common than wine and spirits.
HOTELS
Lodging options in and around Bryce Canyon include both rustic and modern amenities, but all fill up fast in summer. Bryce Canyon Lodge is the only hotel inside the park, but there are a number of options in Bryce Canyon City, just north of the park’s entrance. Panguitch and Tropic are small towns nearby with good options for budget and last-minute travelers. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
PLANTS AND WILDLIFE IN BRYCE CANYON
Due to elevations approaching 9,000 feet, many of Bryce Canyon’s 400 plant species are unlike those you’ll see at less lofty places. Look at exposed slopes and you might catch a glimpse of the pygmy pinyon, or the gnarled, 1,000-year-old bristlecone pine. At lower altitudes are the Douglas fir, ponderosa pine, and the quaking aspen, sitting in groves of twinkling leaves. No fewer than three kinds of sagebrush—big, black, and fringed—grow here, as well as the blue columbine.
Mule deer and chipmunks are common companions on the trails and are used to human presence. You might also catch a glimpse of the endangered Utah prairie dog. Give them a wide berth; they may be cute, but they bite. Other animals include elk, black-tailed jackrabbits, and the desert cottontail. More than 170 species of bird live in the park or pass through as a migratory stop. Bird-watchers are often rewarded handsomely for their vigilance: eagles, peregrine falcons, and even the rare California condor have all been spotted in the park.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Park Contact Information Bryce Canyon National Park. 435/834–5322 www.nps.gov/brca.
VISITOR CENTER
Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. Even if you’re anxious to hit the hoodoos, the visitor center, just to your right after the park-entry pay station, is the best place to start if you want to know what you’re looking at and how it got there. Rangers staff a counter where you can ask questions or let them map out an itinerary of “must-sees” based on your time and physical abilities. There are also multimedia exhibits, books, maps, and backcountry camping permits for sale. First aid, emergency, and lost-and-found services are offered here, along with free Wi-Fi. Do all your phone business here; it may be the last place in the park where you get cell reception. Hwy. 63 435/834–5322 www.nps.gov/brca.
Bryce Canyon Lodge. The lodge’s architect, Gilbert Stanley Underwood, was a national park specialist, having designed lodges at Zion and Grand Canyon before turning his T-square to Bryce in 1923. The results are worth a visit as this National Historic Landmark has been faithfully restored, right down to the lobby’s huge limestone fireplace, and log and wrought-iron chandelier. Inside the historic building are a restaurant and gift shop, as well as plenty of information on park activities. The lodge operation includes several historic log cabins nearby on the wooded grounds, just a short walk from the rim trail. Hwy. 63 435/834–8700.
Fodor’sChoice Main Park Road. Following miles of canyon rim, this thoroughfare gives access to more than a dozen scenic overlooks between the park entrance and Rainbow Point. Major overlooks are rarely more than a few minutes’ walk from the parking areas, and many let you see more than 100 miles on clear days. Remember that all overlooks lie east of the road. To keep things simple, proceed to the southern end of the park and stop at the overlooks on your northbound return; they will all be on the right side of the road. Allow two to three hours to travel the entire 36-mile round-trip. The road is open year-round, but may close temporarily after heavy snowfalls. Keep your eyes open for wildlife as you drive. Trailers are not allowed at Bryce Point and Paria View, but you can park them at the parking lot across the road from the visitor center. RVs can drive throughout the park, but vehicles longer than 25 feet are not allowed at Paria View. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Agua Canyon. This overlook in the southern section of the park, 12 miles south of the park entrance, has a nice view of several standout hoodoos. Look for the top-heavy formation called the Hunter, which actually has a few small hardy trees growing on its cap. As the rock erodes, the park evolves; snap a picture because the Hunter may look different the next time you visit. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Fairyland Point. Best seen as you exit the park, this scenic overlook adjacent to Boat Mesa, ½ mile north of the visitor center and a mile off the main park road, has splendid views of Fairyland Amphitheater and its delicate, fanciful forms. The Sinking Ship and other formations stand before the grand backdrop of the Aquarius Plateau and distant Navajo Mountain. Nearby is the Fairyland Loop trailhead; it’s a stunning five-hour hike in summer and a favorite of snowshoers in winter. Off Hwy. 63.
Inspiration Point. Not far (1½ miles) east along the Rim Trail from Bryce Point is Inspiration Point, site of a wonderful vista on the main amphitheater and one of the best places in the park to see the sunset. (You will have plenty of company and hear a variety of languages as the sun goes down.) Inspiration Point Rd.
Natural Bridge. Formed over millions of years by wind, water, and chemical erosion, this 85-foot rusty-orange arch formation—one of several rock arches in the park—is an essential photo op. Beyond the parking lot lies a rare stand of aspen trees, their leaves twinkling in the wind. Watch out for distracted drivers at this stunning viewpoint. Off Hwy. 63, 11 miles south of park entrance.
Bryce Canyon Auto and Hiking Guide, by Tully Stroud, has info on the geology and history of the area. Supplement the free park map with the Bryce Canyon Hiking Guide, with an amphitheater hiking map. To prepare kids ages 5 to 10 for a trip to the park, order the Kid’s Guide to Bryce Canyon.
Bryce Canyon Natural History Association. Books are available at the visitor center or by contacting Bryce Canyon Natural History Association. 435/834–4782, 888/362–2642 www.brycecanyon.org.
Rainbow and Yovimpa Points. Separated by less than half a mile, Rainbow and Yovimpa points offer two fine panoramas facing opposite directions. Rainbow Point’s best view is to the north overlooking the southern rim of the amphitheater and giving a glimpse of Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument; Yovimpa Point’s vista spreads out to the south. On a clear day you can see all the way to Arizona, 100 miles away. Yovimpa Point also has a shady and quiet picnic area with tables and restrooms. You can hike between them on the easy Bristlecone Loop Trail or tackle the more strenuous 8¾-mile Riggs Spring Loop Trail, which passes the tallest point in the park. This is the outermost auto stop on the main road, so visitors often drive here first and make it their starting point, then work their way back to the main gate. Off Hwy. 63, 18 miles south of park entrance.
Fodor’sChoice Sunrise Point. Named for its stunning views at dawn, this overlook is a short walk from Bryce Canyon Lodge, 2 miles south of the park entrance, and so one of the park’s most popular stops. It’s also the trailhead for the Queen’s Garden Trail and the Fairyland Loop Trail. You have to descend the Queen’s Garden Trail to get a glimpse of the regal Queen Victoria, a hoodoo that appears to sport a crown and glorious full skirt. The trail is popular and marked clearly, but moderately strenuous with 350 feet of elevation change. Off Hwy. 63.
Sunset Point. Watch the late-day sun paint the hoodoos here. You can see Thor’s Hammer, a delicate formation similar to a balanced rock, from the rim, but when you hike 550 feet down into the amphitheater on the Navajo Loop Trail you can walk through the famous and very popular Wall Street—a deep, shady “slot” canyon. The point is 2 miles south of the park entrance near Bryce Canyon Lodge. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Most visitors explore Bryce Canyon by car, but the hiking trails are far more rewarding. At these elevations, you’ll have to stop to catch your breath more often than you’re used to. It gets warm in summer but rarely uncomfortably hot, so hiking farther into the depths of the park is not difficult, so long as you don’t pick a hike that is beyond your abilities.
OUTFITTERS
Bryce Canyon Airlines & Helicopters. For a bird’s-eye view of Bryce Canyon National Park, take a dramatic helicopter ride or airplane tour over the fantastic sandstone formations. Longer full-canyon tours and added excursions to sites such as the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, or Zion are also offered. Flight time can last anywhere from 35 minutes to four hours; family and group rates are available. 435/834–8060 www.rubysinn.com/scenic-flights From $110.
More than 170 bird species have been identified in Bryce. Violet-green swallows and white-throated swifts are common, as are Steller’s jays, American coots, rufous hummingbirds, and mountain bluebirds. Lucky bird-watchers will see golden eagles floating across the skies above the pink rocks of the amphitheater, and experienced birders might spot an osprey nest high in the canyon wall. The best time in the park for avian variety is from May through July.
To get up close and personal with the park’s hoodoos, set aside a half day to hike into the amphitheater. There are no elevators, so remember that after you descend below the rim you’ll have to get back up. The air gets warmer the lower you go, and the altitude will have you huffing and puffing unless you’re a mountain native. The uneven terrain calls for lace-up shoes on even the well-trodden, high-traffic trails and sturdy hiking boots for the more challenging ones. No below-rim trails are paved. For trail maps, information, and ranger recommendations, stop at the visitor center. Bathrooms are at most trailheads but not down in the amphitheater.
EASY
Bristlecone Loop Trail. This 1-mile trail with a modest 200 feet of elevation gain lets you see the park from its highest points of more than 9,000 feet, alternating between spruce and fir forest and wide-open vistas across the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument and beyond. You might see yellow-bellied marmots and dusky grouse, critters not found at lower elevations in the park. The most challenging part of the hike is ungluing your eyes from the scenery long enough to read the signage at the many trail forks. Plan on 45 minutes to an hour. Easy. Bryce Canyon National Park 
Trailhead: at Rainbow Point parking area, 18 miles south of park entrance.
Fodor’sChoice Queen’s Garden Trail. FAMILY This hike is the easiest way down into the amphitheater, with 350 feet of elevation change leading to a short tunnel, quirky hoodoos, and lots of like-minded hikers. It’s the essential Bryce “sampler.” Allow two hours total to hike the 1½-mile trail plus the ½-mile rim-side path and back. Easy. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailhead: at Sunrise Point, 2 miles south of park entrance.
MODERATE
Navajo Loop Trail. FAMILY One of Bryce’s most popular and dramatic attractions is this steep descent via a series of switchbacks leading to Wall Street, a claustrophobic hallway of rock only 20 feet wide in places with walls 100 feet high. After a walk through the Silent City, the northern end of the trail brings Thor’s Hammer into view. A well-marked intersection offers a shorter way back or continuing on the Queen’s Garden Trail to Sunrise Point. For the short version allow at least an hour on this 1½-mile trail with 550 feet of elevation change. Moderate. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailhead: at Sunset Point, 2 miles south of park entrance.
Fodor’sChoice Navajo/Queen’s Garden Combination Loop. FAMILY By walking this extended 3-mile loop, you can see some of the best of Bryce; it takes a little more than two hours. The route passes fantastic formations and an open forest of pine and juniper on the amphitheater floor. Descend into the amphitheater from Sunrise Point on the Queen’s Garden Trail and ascend via the Navajo Loop Trail; return to your starting point via the Rim Trail. Moderate. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailheads: at Sunset and Sunrise points, 2 miles south of park entrance.
DIFFICULT
Fairyland Loop Trail. Hike into whimsical Fairyland Canyon on this trail that gets more strenuous and less crowded as you progress along its 8 miles. It winds around hoodoos, across trickles of water, and finally to a natural window in the rock at Tower Bridge, 1½ miles from Sunrise Point and 4 miles from Fairyland Point. The pink-and-white badlands and hoodoos surround you the whole way. Don’t feel like you have to go the whole distance to make it worthwhile. But if you do, allow at least five hours for the round-trip with 1,700 feet of elevation change. You can pick up the loop at Fairyland Point or Sunrise Point. Difficult. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailheads: at Fairyland Point, 1 mile off main park road, 1 mile south of park entrance; Sunrise Point, 2 miles south of park entrance.
Hat Shop Trail. The sedimentary haberdashery sits 2 miles from the trailhead. Hard gray caps balance precariously atop narrow pedestals of softer, rust-color rock. Allow three to four hours to travel this strenuous but rewarding 4-mile round-trip trail, the first part of the longer Under-the-Rim Trail. Difficult. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailhead: at Bryce Point, 2 miles off main park road, 5½ miles south of park entrance.
Peekaboo Loop. The reward of this steep trail is the Wall of Windows and the Three Wise Men. Horses use this trail in spring, summer, and fall and have the right-of-way. Start at Bryce, Sunrise, or Sunset Point and allow four to five hours to hike the 5-mile trail or 7-mile double-loop. Difficult. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailheads: at Bryce Point, 2 miles off main park road, 5½ miles south of park entrance; Sunrise and Sunset points, 2 miles south of park entrance.
Under-the-Rim Trail. Starting at Bryce Point, the trail travels 23 miles to Rainbow Point, passing through the Pink Cliffs, traversing Agua Canyon and Ponderosa Canyon, and taking you by several springs. Most of the hike is on the amphitheater floor, characterized by up-and-down terrain among stands of ponderosa pine; the elevation change totals about 1,500 feet. It’s the park’s longest trail, but four trailheads along the main park road allow you to connect to the Under-the-Rim Trail and cover its length as a series of day hikes. Allow at least two days to hike the route in its entirety, and although it’s not a hoodoo-heavy hike there’s plenty to see to make it a more leisurely three-day affair. Difficult. Bryce Canyon National Park Trailheads: at Bryce Point, Swamp Canyon, Ponderosa Canyon, and Rainbow Point.
Many of the park’s hiking trails were first formed beneath the hooves of cattle wranglers. Today, hikers and riders share the trails. A number of outfitters can set you up with a gentle mount and lead you to the park’s best sights. Not only can you cover more ground than you would walking, but equine traffic has the right-of-way at all times. Call ahead to the stables for reservations to find a trip that’s right for you, from 90 minutes to all day. The biggest outfitters have more than 100 horses and mules to choose from. People under the age of seven or who weigh more than 220 pounds are prohibited from riding.
TOURS AND OUTFITTERS
Canyon Trail Rides. Descend to the floor of the Bryce Canyon amphitheater via horse or mule—most visitors have no riding experience so don’t hesitate to join in. A two-hour ride ambles along the amphitheater floor through the Queen’s Garden before returning to Sunrise Point. The half-day expedition follows Peekaboo Loop Trail, winds past the Fairy Castle, and passes the Wall of Windows before returning to Sunrise Point. Two rides a day of each type leave in the morning and early afternoon. Trips can now be booked online; there are no rides in winter. Bryce Canyon Lodge, Off Hwy. 63 435/679–8665 www.canyonrides.com $65 for 2 hrs; $90 for ½-day excursion.
Ruby’s Horseback Adventures. FAMILY Ride to the rim of Bryce Canyon, venture through narrow slot canyons in Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument, or even retrace the trails taken by outlaw Butch Cassidy more than 100 years ago. Rides last from one hour to all day. Kids must be seven or older to ride, in some cases 10. Wagon rides to the rim of Bryce Canyon are available for all ages, as are sleigh rides in winter. Bryce Canyon National Park 866/782–0002 www.horserides.net From $55.
Unlike Utah’s other national parks, Bryce Canyon receives plenty of snow, making it a popular cross-country ski area. Rim Trail, Paria Loop, and other paths above the canyon are popular destinations. The visitor center sells shoe-traction devices, and some of the ranger-guided snowshoe activities include snowshoes and poles.
OUTFITTERS
Ruby’s Winter Activities Center. FAMILY This facility grooms miles of private, no-cost trails that connect to the ungroomed trails inside the park. Rental snowshoes, ice skates, and cross-country ski equipment are available. Hwy. 63, 1 mile north of park entrance 435/834–5341 www.rubysinn.com/winter-activities.
Ruby’s General Store. It may not be one of the area’s geological wonders, but this giant mercantile center almost has to be seen to be believed. On a busy evening it is bustling with tourists plucking through souvenirs that range from sweatshirts to wind chimes. There is also Western wear, children’s toys, a holiday-gift gallery, and groceries. Even the camping equipment is in ample supply. Need a folding stove, sleeping bag, or fishing gear? You will find it at Ruby’s. You can also cross Main Street to where this ever-expanding complex has added a line of shops trimmed like an Old West town, complete with candy store and rock shop. 26 S. Main St. 435/834–5484.
Bryce Canyon is a bit off the beaten path, often a side trip for those who visit Zion National Park to the southwest, and far from major roads or large cities (both Las Vegas and Salt Lake City are approximately 270 miles away). The park is just one of a number of beautiful or unique natural areas in southern Utah worth exploring. Towns close to the park pulse with Western personality and are excellent bases for exploring the entire area. To the west, Red Canyon offers an array of activities not available inside the park, such as mountain biking. The expansive and remote Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument is about an hour to the northeast. Nearby state parks Escalante Petrified Forest and Kodachrome Basin make for great side trips.
Panguitch calls itself the “Center of Scenic Utah,” and it’s an accurate moniker. The small town 25 miles from Bryce Canyon has restaurants, motels, gas stations, and trinket shops. About 47 miles northeast of Bryce, Escalante has modern amenities and is a western gateway to the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. If you’re traveling through southwestern Utah on Interstate 15, Cedar City will be your exit to Bryce. The largest city you’ll encounter in this part of Utah, it’s 78 miles from Bryce Canyon. Southern Utah University is here, and the Utah Shakespeare Festival on its campus draws theater buffs from all over the country.
Visitor Information Cedar City/Brian Head Tourism Bureau. 581 N. Main St., Cedar City 800/354–4849, 435/586–5124 www.scenicsouthernutah.com. Escalante Interagency Visitor Center. 755 W. Main St., Escalante 435/826–5499 www.blm.gov. Garfield County Travel Council (Panguitch). 55 S. Main St., Panguitch 800/444–6689 www.brycecanyoncountry.com.
Cedar Breaks National Monument. From the rim of Cedar Breaks, 23 miles east of Cedar City, a natural amphitheater plunges 2,000 feet into the Markagunt Plateau. Short hiking trails along the rim make this a wonderful summer stop, especially for Cedar City or Shakespeare festival visitors not planning to visit the Zion or Bryce park. Hwy. 14, Brian Head 435/586–9451 www.nps.gov/cebr $6.
Dixie National Forest. The forest’s expansive natural area is divided into four noncontiguous swaths covering a total of nearly 2 million acres. Adjacent to three national parks, two national monuments, and several state parks, the forest has 26 campgrounds in a variety of backdrops lakeside, mountainside, and in the depths of pine and spruce forests. Recreational opportunities abound, including hiking, picnicking, horseback riding, and fishing. Dixie National Forest Headquarters, 1789 N. Wedgewood La., Cedar City 435/865–3700 www.fs.usda.gov/dixie Free.
Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. FAMILY This state park was created to protect a huge repository of petrified wood, easily spotted along two moderate-to-strenuous hiking trails. Of equal interest to area locals and visitors is the park’s Wide Hollow Reservoir at the base of the hiking trails, which has a swimming beach and is good for boating, fishing, and birding. 710 N. Reservoir Rd., Escalante 435/826–4466 www.stateparks.utah.gov $8.
Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. FAMILY In September 1996, President Bill Clinton designated 1.7 million acres in south-central Utah as Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. Its three distinct sections—the Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Canyons of the Escalante—offer remote backcountry experiences hard to find elsewhere in the Lower 48. Waterfalls, shoulder-width slot canyons, and improbable colors all characterize this wilderness. Highway 12, which straddles the northern border of the monument, is one of the most scenic stretches in the Southwest. The small towns of Escalante and Boulder offer outfitters, lodging, and dining. Kanab 435/644–1200 www.blm.gov Free.
Kodachrome Basin State Park. FAMILY Yes, it is named after the old-fashioned color photo film; once you see it you’ll understand why the National Geographic Society gave it the name. The stone spires known as “sand pipes” cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Hike any of the trails to spot some of the 67 pipes in and around the park. The short Angels Palace Trail takes you quickly into the park’s interior, up, over, and around some of the badlands. Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Cannonville 435/679–8562 www.stateparks.utah.gov $8.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
BICYCLING
Hell’s Backbone Road. For a scenic and challenging mountain-bike ride, follow the 44-mile Hell’s Backbone Road from Panguitch to the Escalante region and beyond. The route, also known as Highway 12, gives riders stunning views and a half-dozen quaint townships as a reward for the steep grades. The road begins 7 miles south of Panguitch.
TOURS AND OUTFITTERS
Excursions of Escalante. Hiking, backpacking, photography, and canyoneering tours in the Escalante region are custom-fit to your needs and abilities by experienced guides. Canyoneers will be taken into the slot canyons to move through slot chutes or rappel down walls and other obstacles. All gear and provisions are provided whether it’s a day hike or multiday adventure. 125 E. Main St., Escalante 800/839–7567 excursionsofescalante.com From $155.
Fodor’sChoice Highway 12 Scenic Byway. Keep your camera handy and steering wheel steady along this route between Escalante and Loa, near Capitol Reef National Park. Though the highway starts at the intersection of U.S. 89, west of Bryce Canyon National Park, the stretch that begins in Escalante is one of the most spectacular. The road passes through Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument and on to Capitol Reef along one of the most scenic stretches of highway in the United States. Be sure to stop at the scenic overlooks; almost every one will give you an eye-popping view, and information panels let you know what you’re looking at. Don’t get distracted while driving, though; the paved road is twisting and steep, and at times climbs over a hogback with sheer drop-offs on both sides.
U.S. 89/Utah’s Heritage Highway. Winding north from the Arizona border all the way to Spanish Fork Canyon an hour south of Salt Lake City, U.S. 89 is known as the Heritage Highway for its role in shaping Utah history. At its southern end, Kanab is known as “Little Hollywood,” having provided the backdrop for many famous Western movies and TV commercials. The town has since grown considerably to accommodate tourists who flock here to see where Ronald Reagan once slept and Clint Eastwood drew his guns. Other towns north along this famous road may not have the same notoriety in these parts, but they do provide a quiet, uncrowded, and inexpensive place to stay near Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. East of Kanab, U.S. 89 runs along the southern edge of the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument.
Bryce Canyon Lodge. $$$ AMERICAN Set among towering pines, this historic lodge, 2 miles south of the park entrance, is the featured place to dine within the park. Designated as a certified Green Restaurant, the menu includes organic, regional foods with choices ranging from Utah trout and prime rib to creative vegetarian-friendly entrées. Known for: stone fireplace; can accommodate special diets; rustic decor. 
Average main: $27 Hwy. 63 435/834–8700 www.brycecanyonforever.com/dining 
Closed early Nov.–late Mar.
Valhalla Pizzeria & Coffee Shop. $ ITALIAN FAMILY A former recreation room across the parking lot from Bryce Canyon Lodge was converted into this 40-seat fast-casual pizzeria and coffee shop that offers breakfast and dinner. Breakfast choices include homemade pastries and fresh fruit, or kick back on the tranquil patio in the evening and enjoy fresh pizza made from organic ingredients, along with your choice of beer or wine. Known for: quick bites; friendly staff; pizza by the slice or whole. Average main: $10 Off Hwy. 63 2 miles south of park entrance 435/834–8709 www.brycecanyonforever.com/pizza Closed mid-Oct.–mid-May. No lunch.
PICNIC AREAS
North Campground. FAMILY Across the road and slightly east of the Bryce Canyon visitor center, this campground includes several sites for tents and RVs, as well as access to scenic trails, a general store, and picnic area. Bryce Canyon National Park $30 per night.
Yovimpa Point. At the southern end of the park, 18 miles south of the park entrance, this shady, quiet spot has tables and restrooms nearby. A short walk leads to the edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau and offers long-distance, panoramic views. Bryce Canyon National Park.
Bryce Canyon Restaurant. $$ AMERICAN Part of the Bryce Canyon Pines motel, about 15 miles west of Tropic, this cozy eatery is only minutes from Bryce Canyon National Park and offers large portions of homemade fare, including soups and a famed selection of pies. Known for: homemade soups and pies; rustic charm; family-friendly. Average main: $15 Hwy. 12, mile marker 10 800/892–7923 www.brycecanyonmotel.com.
Fodor’sChoice Centro Woodfired Pizzeria. $ ITALIAN You can watch your handmade artisanal pizza being pulled from the fires of the brick oven, then sit back and enjoy a seasonal pie layered with ingredients such as house-made fennel sausage and wood-roasted cremini mushrooms. The creamy vanilla gelato layered with a balsamic reduction and sea salt is highly addictive. Known for: house-made sausage; thin crusts; creative desserts. Average main: $12 50 W. Center St., Cedar City 435/867–8123 Closed Sun.
Cowboy Blues. $$ AMERICAN This locals’ favorite serves up bountiful American food in a rustic Old West setting and keeps it real by sourcing its Black Angus beef from Southern Utah ranches and plucking seasonal vegetables from a local garden. You can enjoy a cocktail or beer on the patio, along with a serving of the eatery’s one-of-a-kind jalapeño poppers. Known for: outdoor dining; blue margaritas; BBQ ribs. Average main: $15 530 W. Main St., Escalante 435/826–4577 www.cowboyblues.net.
Cowboy’s Smokehouse Café. $$ AMERICAN From the Western-style interior and creaky floors to the smoker out back, this rustic café has an aura of Texan authenticity with cowboy collectibles and game trophies lining the walls. No surprise that barbecue is the specialty here, with ample portions of favorites such as ribs, mesquite-flavored beef and pulled pork, and the restaurant’s own house-made sauce. Known for: rustic charm; big steaks; sausage platter. Average main: $18 95 N. Main St., Panguitch 435/676–8030 www.thecowboysmokehouse.com 
No credit cards Closed Sun.
Escalante Outfitters. $$ CAFÉ When you’re spent after a day of exploration, this is a great place to sit back and relax. Try one of the build-your-own pizzas, known for fresh, local ingredients such as applewood bacon and slow-roasted tomatoes, and pair it with an icy Utah microbrew. Known for: hearty pizzas; casual space; delicious coffee. Average main: $17 310 W. Main St., Escalante 435/826–4266 www.escalanteoutfitters.com.
Foster’s Family Steakhouse. $$ STEAKHOUSE This steak house is known for its prime rib and sautéed mushrooms, but you’ll also find seafood on the menu. Whatever you choose, be sure to leave room for dessert—try the namesake mixed-berry pie that includes raspberries, rhubarb, and strawberries. Known for: prime rib; homemade pies; takeout bakery. Average main: $15 1150 Hwy. 12 435/834–5227 www.fostersmotel.com Closed Dec. and Jan.
Milt’s Stage Stop. $$$ STEAKHOUSE Locals and an increasing number of tourists have discovered the lodgelike surroundings, friendly service, and canyon views at this dinner spot a 10-minute drive from Cedar City. It’s known for traditional, hearty steak house cuisine: rib-eye steaks, prime rib, seafood dishes, and a sizable salad bar, accompanied by loaded baked potatoes and other sides. Known for: steaks and seafood; salad bar; warm desserts. Average main: $25 3560 E. Hwy. 14, Cedar City 435/586–9344 www.miltsstagestop.com No lunch.
Fodor’sChoice 
Bryce Canyon Lodge. $$$$ HOTEL This historic, rugged stone-and-wood lodge close to the amphitheater’s rim offers motel-style rooms with semiprivate balconies or porches and cozy lodgepole pine cabins, some with cathedral ceilings and gas fireplaces. Pros: lodging close to canyon rim, trails; fine dining, pizzeria, and coffee shop on-site; cabins have fireplaces. Cons: closed in winter; books up fast; no TV. Rooms from: $202 Off Hwy. 63 435/834–8700, 877/386–4383 www.brycecanyonforever.com Closed Jan. and Feb. 
113 rooms 
No meals.
Bard’s Inn Bed and Breakfast. $$ B&B/INN Rooms in this restored turn-of-the-20th-century house are named after famous characters from Shakespeare’s plays and handcrafted quilts grace the beds. Pros: immaculate rooms; all rooms have private baths; close to historic downtown. Cons: thin walls and creaky floors; books up fast for festival season. Rooms from: $119 150 S. 100 W, Cedar City 435/586–6612 www.thebardsinn.com Closed Sept.–May 8 rooms Breakfast.
Best Western Bryce Canyon Grand Hotel. $$$$ HOTEL If you’re into creature comforts but can do without charm, this four-story hotel is the place—rooms are relatively posh, with comfortable mattresses, pillows, and bedding, spacious bathrooms, and modern appliances. Pros: clean, spacious rooms; lots of indoor amenities. Cons: no pets allowed; breakfast can get crowded. Rooms from: $209 30 N. 100 E 866/866–6634, 435/834–5700 www.brycecanyongrand.com 164 rooms Breakfast.
Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn. $$ HOTEL This bustling Southwestern-themed hotel has expanded over the years to include various wings with rooms that vary widely in terms of size and appeal. Pros: one-stop shopping for tours, amenities. Cons: can get very busy, especially when the big tour buses roll in; too big for charm or a quiet getaway. Rooms from: $150 26 S. Main St. 435/834–5341, 866/866–6616 www.rubysinn.com 381 rooms No meals.
BEST CAMPGROUNDS IN BRYCE CANYON
The two campgrounds in Bryce Canyon National Park fill up fast, especially in summer, and are family-friendly. All are drive-in, except for the handful of backcountry sites that only backpackers and gung-ho day hikers ever see. Both campgrounds completed a welcome renovation of their restrooms and shared facilities in 2012.
North Campground. A cool, shady retreat in a forest of ponderosa pines, this is a great home base for your exploration of Bryce Canyon. You’re near the general store, trailheads, and the visitor center. Main park road, ½ mile south of visitor center 435/834–5322.
Sunset Campground. This serene alpine campground is within walking distance of Bryce Canyon Lodge and many trailheads. All sites are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Main park road, 2 miles south of visitor center 435/834–5322.
Bryce Canyon Pines. $$ HOTEL Most rooms in this motel complex tucked into the woods 6 miles from the park entrance have excellent mountain views. Pros: guided horseback rides; close to park entrance. Cons: thin walls; room quality varies widely. Rooms from: $130 Hwy. 12 6 miles northwest of park entrance on Rte. 12 800/892–7923 brycecanyonmotel.com 46 rooms.
Bryce View Lodge. $$ HOTEL Near the park entrance on Route 63, this motel is a practical, reasonably priced option, with clean rooms and access to the pool and other amenities across the way at the Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn, its sister property. Pros: good location for park access; less pricey than surrounding hotels; guided ATV and horseback riding available. Cons: a bit dated inside and out. Rooms from: $120 105 E. Center St., Bryce Canyon City 435/834–5180, 888/279–2304 www.bryceviewlodge.com 160 rooms No meals.
Escalante’s Grand Staircase Bed & Breakfast Inn. $$ B&B/INN Rooms are set apart from the main house, giving this property some motel-type privacy along with bed-and-breakfast amenities. Pros: spacious rooms; Wi-Fi. Cons: no pets. Rooms from: $142 280 W. Main St., Escalante 435/826–4890 www.escalantebnb.com 8 rooms Breakfast.
Escalante Outfitters. $ HOTEL A good option if you want a one-stop place to plan and buy gear for your outdoor adventure, or if you’re traveling on a budget and don’t care about amenities. Pros: the food is a pleasant surprise; pet-friendly. Cons: right on the highway; you may have to wait in line for a shower. Rooms from: $55 310 W. Main St., Escalante 435/826–4266 www.escalanteoutfitters.com 8 cabins No meals.