Updated by Aly Capito
Just two hours of desert highway northbound from the glittering lights of Las Vegas is one of the most beautiful and unique regions of the United States. The area’s brightest city, St. George, leads you far and wide across the amazing landscapes of Southwestern Utah. From Snow Canyon and its beautiful white and red Navajo sandstone with blackened blankets of lava, to Gunlock State Beach where camping, swimming, and hiking, adventure and sightseeing awaits.
Southwestern Utah has been dubbed “The Unexpected Southwest.” It is a landscape of thrills and adrenaline, and a place to find relaxation and retreat at its renowned spas and luxury country clubs. This is the place where everyone in the family can find what they love to do. Rejuvenate yourself at a spa, or in the beauty of the wild red cliffs and history surrounding you. Take the mountain trails by bike or by foot. Entertainment and dining options bring worldly cultures and experiences to St. George, Utah’s quaint summer paradise. Ruins, petroglyphs, pioneer graffiti, and ghost towns—monuments to what once was—continue to beckon explorers.
Southwestern Utah is remarkable in the range of activities and terrain it has to offer. On one summer day you can explore an arid desert canyon at Snow Canyon State Park (named for the settlers of the canyon, not actual snow). Next you can camp in a beautiful high-alpine aspen grove within Dixie National Forest; here snow is plenty, so be sure to bundle up. In winter you can try mountain biking at Gooseberry Mesa near Hurricane, and cut the slopes skiing at Brian Head Resort on the same trip.
Utah’s Dixie. Many of southwestern Utah’s Mormon settlers arrived from the American South and brought the name “Dixie” with them. St. George, the main population center in this area, is often the hottest place in the state—not just in temperature, but in culture, activities, and tourist attractions. Locals from the north migrate here during cold months, and the region has earned a second nickname: Utah’s Miami.
Grand Staircase—Escalante National Monument. Three distinct sections define the 1.7 million acres of this region—the Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Canyons of the Escalante. Here, among the waterfalls, Native American ruins and petroglyphs, and slot canyons, improbable colors abound.
Lava-capped mountains: As you hike along the lower trails of Snow Canyon State Park, look up to see ridges formed by lava from eruptions that may have happened as recently as 20,000 years ago.
Travel through history: Imagine travel in pioneer days in the one restored stagecoach that visitors can hop aboard at Iron Mission State Park Museum.
Drive the Scenic Byway: Highway 12 begins in Escalante and passes through Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. As it continues on to Capitol Reef National Park, you can enjoy the spectacular views along with some hair-raising twists and turns.
Shakespeare and more: Watch productions such as Othello on a stage that replicates the old Globe Theatre during the Utah Shakespeare Festival.
Move in dinosaur herds: The St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm is a fantastic visit for anyone of any age. Fun Fact: This site would be developed land today if ancient footprints hadn’t been accidentally unearthed by a backhoe in 2000.
WHEN TO GO
Year-round, far southwestern Utah is the warmest region in the state. St. George is usually the first city in Utah to break 100°F every summer, and even the winters remain mild at these lower desert elevations. Despite the summer’s heat, most people visit SW Utah from June to September, making the off-season winter months pleasantly uncrowded. Utahns from the north tend to stay away from the southern parts of the state during peak months and tend to visit more often in the winter. But if you decide to brave the heat, wear sunscreen and drink lots of water, regardless of your activity level.
Do prepare for the increased elevation if you are from a region that is found below sea level. Elevation sickness can put a snag in anyone’s travel plans. You may not think of it so much in St. George, but farther east around the Brian Head–Cedar Breaks National Monument, elevations can surpass 9,000 feet. At this altitude, the warm summer sun is perfect against the coolness of the alpine forests throughout the day. The resort here offers plenty to do throughout the year. Winter sports may still dominate this area, but summer recreation leaves you wanting for nothing; some of the finest hiking and mountain biking trails can be found here.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
No matter which part you visit or what adventure you’re pursuing, driving time will take up a fair number of your hours. Be sure to leave time to take in the awe-inspiring scenery along your drive.
Find what you love here in the Southwest. Zion National Park and Grand Staircase–Escalante experiences are more outdoorsy and exhilarating for some, while others may prefer the St. Geroge downtown walking tour. Artsy? Visit Cedar City, where the playwright Shakespeare still holds the stage at The Professional Theatre at South Utah University.
Springdale or Hurricane are two smaller towns ideal for exploring Zion National Park; St. George and Cedar City offer great nightlife.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
AIR TRAVEL
SkyWest flies to St. George Municipal Airport (SGU), and operates as a carrier for both United Express and Delta Connection flights. You can fly from just about any airport in the country straight to St. George.
Las Vegas’s McCarran International Airport is 116 miles south of St. George. Drive, or take a shuttle so you can observe the open road free of distraction. The St. George Shuttle makes nine trips a day between the two cities.
Coming from up north? Aztec Shuttle provides round-trip service from Salt Lake City, with stops in St. George and Cedar City. Reservations are required, so be sure to plan ahead.
Airport Contacts McCarran International Airport (Las Vegas). 
5757 Wayne Newton Blvd., Las Vegas 
702/261–5211 General Information, 702/261–6100 McCarran Rent-A-Car Center 
www.mccarran.com. St. George Municipal Airport (SGU). 4550 S. Airport Way, St. George 435/627–4080 www.flysgu.com.
Airport Shuttle Aztec Shuttle. 435/656–9040 www.aztecshuttle.com. St. George Shuttle. 1275 E. Redhills Pkwy., St. George 435/628–8320, 800/933–8320 www.stgshuttle.com.
CAR TRAVEL
Interstate 15 is the main corridor through Utah. It reaches from St. George, through Salt Lake City, and on to Idaho, and traffic usually isn’t an issue. If you’re looking for the scenic tour, consider taking U.S. 89 just east of I–15. With access to Bryce Canyon National Park, the eastern side of Zion National Park, and the Kanab area, U.S. 89 travels a more natural north-south route.
When heading east or west, Highways 143 and 14 are both well-kept routes you can take.
Highway 9 is the primary access to Springdale and Zion National Park. 
TIP → If you need to travel between I–15 and U.S. 89 via Route 9 during the day, you must pay the $25 admission fee to Zion National Park even if you do not plan to stop and visit.
Access to the massive and remote Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument is via Highway 12 to the north and U.S. 89 to the south.
In winter the primary access roads to Brian Head and Cedar Breaks National Monument may be closed for snow removal (Highway 143 from the north and east) or for the entirety of the season (Highway 148 from the south) from November 1 to March 1.
Utah Department of Transportation provides a free, up-to-the-minute interactive state map for drivers. You can also download their app ( udottraffic.utah.gov).
When traveling in states with extreme weather and terrain, always be sure to have a physical map with you. Mobile service and Wi-Fi will not always be available. The Utah Department of Tourism provides free state maps to anyone. Call 800/200–1160 to request yours, or purchase from any convenience store along the way.
RESTAURANTS
In the southwestern corner of the state, traditional and contemporary American cuisines are most common and reflect the pioneer heritage of the region. Mexican and American Southwest influences are also apparent throughout the region.
For the most diverse dining options, stops in St. George and Springdale are a must. You can even find freshly imported West Coast seafood in a number of St. George’s more elite restaurants.
Utah has unique wine and liquor laws, but these days, most restaurants typically serve beer, wine, or cocktails. However, in smaller towns, you may want to check first if they have a drink menu.
LODGING
Most major hotel and motel chains can be found throughout this region of the state. Whether you’re looking for chic, modern comfort or basic accommodations, you can find it all here. Just be sure to book early whenever possible. A popular destination in summer, lodging closest to major attractions and activities fill up early.
If chain hotels aren’t your style, Southwestern Utah has plenty of options for you. Steeped in pioneer heritage, you’ll find many older homes that have been refurbished as unique and cozy bed-and-breakfasts.
Experience true Southwestern Utah by staying in one of the many rentable cabins and lodges. These are private rentals, and should be booked as far in advance as possible. Be sure to discuss all amenities with your host prior to finalizing a stay.
The Utah Office of Tourism website has information on lodging and amenities in the southwestern part of the state. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Contacts Utah Office of Tourism. 300 N. State St., Salt Lake City 800/200–1160 www.visitutah.com.
Mormon pioneers from the American Southeast settled this part of Utah to grow cotton, and they brought the name Dixie with them. Some thought the move was a gamble, but the success of the settlement may be measured in the region’s modern-day definition of risk: hopping the border to nearby Mesquite, Nevada, to roll the dice. St. George is often the hottest place in the state, but the Pine Valley Mountains and Brian Head offer alpine relief and summer recreation.
250 miles southwest of Salt Lake City.
Rich iron-ore deposits here grabbed Mormon leader Brigham Young’s attention, and he ordered a Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS) mission established. The first ironworks and foundry opened in 1851 and operated for only eight years; problems with the furnace, flooding, and hostility between settlers and regional Native Americans eventually put out the flame. Residents then turned to ranching and agriculture for their livelihood, and Cedar City has thrived ever since as an agricultural point of the state.
The Southern Utah University campus hosts the city’s most popular event, the Utah Shakespeare Festival, with a season that gets longer as its reputation grows. Though better known for festivals than recreation, the city is well placed for exploring the Brian Head area.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Utah’s I–15 cuts through Cedar City, providing it with easy access to fast travel for anyone in a hurry.
Travelers coming from the Brian Head area use the scenic Highway 14, winding from Cedar Canyon into downtown. Though town is walkable, you might want a car to get to major stores or conveniences.
FESTIVALS
Fodor’sChoice
Utah Shakespeare Festival. For more than 50 years, Cedar City has gone Bard-crazy, staging productions of Shakespeare’s plays June through October in theaters both indoors and outdoors at Southern Utah University. The Tony award–winning regional theater offers literary seminars, backstage tours, cabarets featuring festival actors, and an outdoor preshow with Elizabethan performers. A new center for the arts, including the open-air Engelstad Shakespeare Theatre, made its debut during the 2016 season. It helps to reserve in advance as many performances sell out. 435/586–7878 www.bard.org.
ESSENTIALS
Visitor Information Cedar City/Brian Head Tourism Bureau. 581 N. Main St. 800/354–4849, 435/586–5124 www.scenicsouthernutah.com.
EXPLORING
Daughters of the Utah Pioneers Museum. Inside the Iron County Visitor Center, this museum displays pioneer artifacts such as an old treadle sewing machine, an antique four-poster bed, and photographs of old Cedar City and its inhabitants. 581 N. Main St. 435/586–8269 
Free.
Frontier Homestead State Park Museum. Created as a memorial to the county’s iron industry heritage, this local attraction allows visitors to explore western history, like the bullet-scarred stagecoach that ran in the days of Butch Cassidy. This state park even features the oldest standing home in all of southern Utah, built in 1851. Local artisans demonstrate pioneer crafts, and guests have the chance to see numerous mining artifacts and tools throughout their time in homestead history. 585 N. Main St. 435/586–9290 www.frontierhomestead.org $3 
Closed Sun.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
Dixie National Forest. The forest’s expansive natural area is divided into four noncontiguous swaths covering a total of nearly 2 million acres. Adjacent to three national parks, two national monuments, and several state parks, the forest has 26 campgrounds in a variety of backdrops lakeside, mountainside, and in the depths of pine and spruce forests. Recreational opportunities abound, including hiking, picnicking, horseback riding, and fishing. Dixie National Forest Headquarters, 1789 N. Wedgewood La. 435/865–3700 www.fs.usda.gov/dixie Free.
HIKING
Southern Utah Scenic Tours. Experienced tour guides accompany visitors on all-day tours to some of Southern Utah’s most popular destinations. Day trips include the ATV Slot Canyons Tour, a fun journey that combines riding ATVs and hiking through scenic terrain. Multiday trips like the Mighty Five take visitors to Utah’s five national parks, with transportation, lodging, and some meals included. For shorter tours you can create your own custom itinerary or join a tour group. Day trips include hotel pickup and drop-off in St. George or Cedar City, park entrance fees, bottled water, and snacks. 435/656–1504, 888/404–8687 www.utahscenictours.com ATV Slot Canyons Tour $310; Mighty Five $1595; call for prices of other tours.
WHERE TO EAT
Fodor’sChoice 
Centro Woodfired Pizzeria. $ ITALIAN You can watch your handmade artisanal pizza being pulled from the fires of the brick oven, then sit back and enjoy a seasonal pie layered with ingredients such as house-made fennel sausage and wood-roasted cremini mushrooms. The creamy vanilla gelato layered with a balsamic reduction and sea salt is highly addictive. Known for: house-made sausage; thin crusts; creative desserts. 
Average main: $12 50 W. Center St. 435/867–8123 Closed Sun.
Chef Alfredo Italiano Ristorante. $$ ITALIAN With linen tablecloths, a decent wine list, and soft music playing in the background, this Sicilian-style restaurant tucked away in a strip mall may be the closest you’ll get to fine dining in Cedar City. The menu features traditional antipasto appetizers and specials like butternut ravioli or eggplant Parmesan. Known for: quiet atmosphere; chicken parm. Average main: $20 2313 W. Hwy. 56 435/586–2693 www.chefalfredos.com No lunch weekends.
Milt’s Stage Stop. $$$ STEAKHOUSE Locals and an increasing number of tourists have discovered the lodgelike surroundings, friendly service, and canyon views at this dinner spot a 10-minute drive from Cedar City. It’s known for traditional, hearty steak house cuisine: rib-eye steaks, prime rib, seafood dishes, and a sizable salad bar, accompanied by loaded baked potatoes and other sides. Known for: steaks and seafood; salad bar; warm desserts. Average main: $25 3560 E. Hwy. 14 435/586–9344 www.miltsstagestop.com No lunch.
The Pastry Pub. $ CAFÉ FAMILY Don’t be fooled by the name—coffee and tea are the only brews here, but pastries aren’t the only thing on the menu. Build a sandwich of meat, egg, cheese, and more on a freshly baked bagel, croissant, artisan bread, or one of four flavors of wraps. Known for: walk from the Shakespeare Festival; espresso; seasonal soups. Average main: $8 86 W. Center St. 435/867–1400 www.cedarcitypastrypub.com Closed Sun.
WHERE TO STAY
Fodor’sChoice 
Amid Summer’s Inn Bed & Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN This 1930s cottage is a gem on a tree-lined Cedar City street. Pros: incredible service; many repeat customers attest to quality; minutes from downtown. Cons: some rooms are accessible only by a narrow stairway; may be too intimate for some. Rooms from: $165 140 S. 100 W 435/586–2600, 888/586–2601 www.amidsummersinn.com 
10 rooms 
Breakfast.
Bard’s Inn Bed and Breakfast. $$ B&B/INN Rooms in this restored turn-of-the-20th-century house are named after famous characters from Shakespeare’s plays and handcrafted quilts grace the beds. Pros: immaculate rooms; all rooms have private baths; close to historic downtown. Cons: thin walls and creaky floors; books up fast for festival season. Rooms from: $119 150 S. 100 W 435/586–6612 www.thebardsinn.com Closed Sept.–May 8 rooms Breakfast.
Best Western Town & Country Inn. $$ HOTEL In downtown Cedar City, this renovated motel offers spacious rooms, complimentary breakfast, a fitness center, and two on-site eateries. Pros: convenient to shops and restaurants; great on-site pool. Cons: breakfast gets mixed reviews. Rooms from: $110 189 N. Main St. 435/586–9900 www.bestwestern.com 128 rooms, 17 suites Breakfast.
Springhill Suites by Marriott Cedar City. $$ HOTEL Close to Brian Head ski resort, Bryce Canyon, and Zion, and convenient for downtown shops and eateries, this upscale hotel has spacious suites with contemporary style. Pros: close to parks; breakfast included. Cons: not within walking distance of downtown. Rooms from: $150 1477 S. Old Hwy. 91 435/586–1685 www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/cdcsh-springhill-suites-cedarcity 72 suites Breakfast.
29 miles northeast of Cedar City.
Brian Head Resort is Utah’s southernmost and highest ski area at well over 9,000 feet, but the area’s summer recreation, especially mountain biking, has been developed energetically. There are now more than 200 miles of trails for bikers, many of which are served by chairlift or shuttle services. The bright red-orange rock formations of Cedar Breaks Monument are several miles south of town.
The snow season is still the high season here, so book winter lodging in advance and expect high room rates. Food prices are high year-round. The fall “mud season” (October and November) and spring “slush season” (April and May) shut down some area businesses.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
From Cedar City, take Highway 14 east to highways 143 and 148 north. Whichever way you arrive, the drive into Brian Head is scenic. The town isn’t large, but the layout doesn’t encourage walking.
During winter, snow closes highways 143 and 148 from the south. Be sure to check road conditions on the UDOT map online or on the app before heading out ( udottraffic.utah.gov).
EXPLORING
Cedar Breaks National Monument. From the rim of Cedar Breaks, 23 miles east of Cedar City, a natural amphitheater plunges 2,000 feet into the Markagunt Plateau. Short hiking trails along the rim make this a wonderful summer stop, especially for Cedar City or Shakespeare festival visitors not planning to visit the Zion or Bryce park. Hwy. 14 435/586–9451 www.nps.gov/cebr $6.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
BICYCLING
Brian Head is a great place to base mountain biking excursions. with your choice of terrain, difficulty, and views. The area’s most popular ride is the 12-mile Bunker Creek Trail, which winds through forests and meadows to Panguitch Lake. Don’t worry, you don’t have to bike up in elevation if you’d rather not; Brian Head Resort runs its ski lift in summer, giving access to several mountain-bike trails. Brian Head Sports is one of many shuttles that takes riders to other trails at the resort.
Five miles south of Brian Head, road cyclists can explore Cedar Breaks National Monument and vicinity alongside traffic.
SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
Brian Head Ski Resort. Eight lifts (including a new high-speed, detachable quad chairlift) transport skiers to runs covering more than 650 acres of terrain. Ski trails begin at a base elevation of 9,600 feet. Expert skiers head for the 11,300-foot summit of Brian Head Peak for access to more challenging runs. A half-pipe, trails, and a terrain park attract zealous snowboarders.
From the top of the resort’s peak, you can see the red-rock cliffs of Cedar Breaks National Monument to the southwest.
During summer and fall, the resort is a favorite with mountain bikers. 329 S. Hwy. 143 866/930–1010 www.brianhead.com Lift tickets $59 weekend, $38 weekday.
Brian Head Sports. As the largest outfitter in town, Brian Head Sports caters to cyclists, skiers, and snowboarders with equipment and accessories for rent or purchase. The store runs a mountain bike shuttle that’s handy for riding area trails that end far from where they start. 269 S. Village Way 435/677–2014 www.brianheadsports.com.
Georg’s Ski Shop and Bikes. Just down the road from Brian Head Resort, this popular ski shop has new and rental skis, snowboards, and bikes. The friendly staff is experienced at helping both beginning and advanced skiers find the perfect gear. 612 S. Hwy. 143 435/677–2013 www.georgsskishop.com.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY
The Lift Bar and Grill. $$ AMERICAN Within the Grand Lodge Resort, this upscale bar and grill features expansive views of the mountains and an eclectic menu of contemporary entrées. With a rustic lodge feel, it features stone fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling windows to maximize the views, and the bar attracts a steady local clientele as well as resort guests. Known for: affordability; salads; outdoor fire pit. Average main: $16 314 Hunter Ridge Rd. 435/677–9000 www.grandlodgeatbrianhead.com.
Cedar Breaks Lodge & Spa. $$ RESORT At an altitude of 9,600 feet, this lodge-style resort offers scenic views from its perch at the north end of town. Pros: scenic location with easy access to skiing, hiking, and mountain biking. Cons: early check-out; noisy parking lot; food gets mixed reviews. Rooms from: $150 223 Hunter Ridge Rd. 435/677–3000, 888/282–3327 www.cedarbreakslodge.com 118 rooms No meals.
Grand Lodge at Brian Head. $$$ RESORT With its stunning scenery and prime location, this modern resort is the perfect stop for anyone looking for a bit of outdoor adventure during the day and luxury relaxation at night. Pros: modern comforts in a mountain setting; spa; every room has a view. Cons: a bit pricey; breakfast included only with certain packages; on-site restaurant gets mixed reviews. Rooms from: $200 314 Hunter Ridge Rd. 435/677–9000 www.grandlodgebrianhead.com 88 rooms, 12 suites No meals; Breakfast.
50 miles southwest of Cedar City.
Believing the mild year-round climate ideal for growing cotton, Brigham Young dispatched 309 LDS families in 1861 to found St. George. They were to raise cotton and silkworms and to establish a textile industry, to make up for textile shortages resulting from the Civil War. The area was subsequently dubbed “Utah’s Dixie,” a name that stuck even after the war ended and the “other” South could once again provide cotton to Utah.
The settlers—many of them originally from southern states—found the desert climate preferable to northern Utah’s snow, and they remained as farmers and ranchers. Crops included fruit, molasses, and grapes for wine that the pioneers sold to nearby mining communities. St. Georgians now number approximately 75,000, many of whom are retirees attracted by the hot, dry climate and the numerous golf courses. But historic Ancestor Square, the city’s many well-preserved original pioneer and Mormon structures, and a growing shopping district make St. George a popular destination for families as well. Walking tours are set up by the St. George Area Convention and Visitors Bureau.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
This burgeoning city is easily reached via I–15 from north and south. Unless your hotel is downtown, it’s best to get around by car.
FESTIVALS
St. George Arts Festival. Artisan booths, food, children’s activities, and entertainment (including cowboy poets) are all part of this annual festival held at Town Square the Friday and Saturday of Easter weekend. St. George 435/627–4500 www.sgcity.org.
St. George Winter Bird Festival. Bird-watchers gather in St. George every January to peep at more than 100 feathered species. Join in three full days of field trips, exhibits, lectures, and activities. Tonaquint Park and Nature Center, 1851 S. Dixie Dr. 435/868–8756, 435/673–0996 www.sgcity.org $10.
ESSENTIALS
St. George Area Convention & Visitors Bureau. 1835 Convention Center Dr. 800/869–6635 www.visitstgeorge.com.
EXPLORING
TOP ATTRACTIONS
Brigham Young Winter Home. Mormon leader Brigham Young spent the last five winters of his life in the warm, sunny climate of St. George. Built of adobe on a sandstone-and-basalt foundation, Young’s winter home has been restored to its original condition and is open to the public. A portrait of Young hangs over one fireplace, and authentic furnishings from the late-19th-century time period have been donated by supporters. Guided tours are available. 67 W. 200 N 435/673–2517 www.lds.org/locations/brigham-young-winter-home Free.
Rosenbruch World Wildlife Museum. FAMILY This 35,000-square-foot facility displays more than 300 species of wildlife created using fiberglass or foam forms with real skin and fur. Here you’ll find species of animals from all over the planet; Africa, Asia, Australia, the Arctic, and more. Each display is made to represent the true feel of each species’ natural habitat. Everyone can enjoy this beautiful museum’s atmosphere, even beyond the amazing displays. Two waterfalls cascade from a two-story mountain, and hidden speakers provide ambient wildlife and nature sounds. Before your tour, check out the children’s interactive area, and don’t miss the art gallery and video theater. 1835 Convention Center Dr. 435/656–0033 www.rosenbruch.org $8.
St. George Art Museum. Spend a few quiet hours out of the blazing sun in St. George’s art museum. The permanent collection celebrates local potters, photographers, painters, and more. Special exhibits highlight local history and lore. Take in the beauty of this southwestern region with the comfort of air-conditioning and refreshments. 47 E. 200 N 435/627–4525 www.sgcity.org/artmuseum $3.
St. George Temple. The red-sandstone temple, plastered over with white stucco, was completed in 1877 and was the first Mormon temple in Southwest Utah. It has served as a meeting place for both Mormons and other congregations over the decades. Today, only Mormons can enter the temple, but a visitor center next door offers guided tours. 250 E. 400 S 435/673–5181 www.lds.org Free.
Snow Canyon State Park. Named not for winter weather but after a pair of pioneering Utahans named Snow, this gem of a state park is filled with natural wonders. Hiking trails lead to lava cones, sand dunes, cactus gardens, and high-contrast vistas. From the campground you can scramble up huge sandstone mounds and overlook the entire valley. Park staff lead occasional guided hikes. The park is about 10 miles northwest of St. George, and about an hour from Zion. 1002 Snow Canyon Dr., Ivins 435/628–2255 stateparks.utah.gov $6 per vehicle.
WORTH NOTING
St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm. FAMILY Unearthed 20 years ago by property developers, this site allows visitors to view the ancient footprints left by dinosaurs from the Jurassic Period millions of years ago. Fossils unearthed at the site are also on display. Accurate replicas portray the creatures that left these tantalizing remains, and themed displays cover many details of the Jurassic era. There’s an interactive area for children and a Dino Park outside the museum for play and fun. 2180 E. Riverside Dr. 435/574–3466 www.dinosite.org $6.
St. George Tabernacle. This is one of the best-preserved pioneer buildings in the entire state, and it is still used for public meetings and programs for the community. Mormon settlers began work on the tabernacle just a few months after the city of St. George was established in June 1863. Upon completion of the sandstone building’s 140-foot clock tower 13 years later, Brigham Young formally dedicated the site. Today, the heritage of the tabernacle still draws many visitors and locals alike. 18 S. Main St. 435/628–4072.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
BICYCLING
Bicycles Unlimited. A trusted southern Utah mountain-biking resource, this shop rents bikes and sells parts, accessories, and guidebooks. 90 S. 100 E 435/673–4492 bicyclesunlimited.com From $25 for 4 hrs.
HIKING
Snow Canyon State Park. Eight miles northwest of St. George off Highway 18, this park has several short trails and lots of small desert canyons to explore. While we recommend a map for all hikers, Snow Canyon is easy to navigate and explore on your own. St. George 435/628–2255 www.stateparks.utah.gov.
HORSE RACING AND RODEO
Dixie Roundup. Dozens of professional rodeo cowboys from across the West take part in this three-day mid-September event held since the 1930s. Team roping, saddle-bronc riding, and bull riding are among the main attractions, along with the always entertaining mutton-busting competition for the kids and the rodeo parade. Sun Bowl Stadium 435/703–4779 stgeorgelions.com $10.
WHERE TO EAT
Use the coordinates (
A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.
Camille’s Sidewalk Café. $ CAFÉ FAMILY This charming café offers a variety of healthy breakfast and lunch choices. Enjoy artisan flatbread pizzas, breakfast sandwiches, gourmet wraps, and other favorites at the cozy tables inside or on the covered patio. Known for: grilled pretzel roll; flatbread pizzas; healthy options. Average main: $8 661 E. St. George Blvd. 435/767–9727 camillescafe.com Closed Sun. C1.
Gun Barrel Steak & Game House. $$$ AMERICAN Inspired by the Wyoming Wildlife and Taxidermy Museum and dotted with unique artifacts, you’ll feel like you’re dining in the Old West at this family-owned restaurant. Serving hearty steaks and wild game, you’re invited to try specialties like buffalo or elk steaks. Known for: rib-eye steak; Prime Rib Special Night (Monday); great service. Average main: $25 1091 N. Bluff St. 435/652–0550 www.gunbarrelutah.com Closed Sun. No lunch B1.
Fodor’sChoice Painted Pony. $$$ AMERICAN Shaded patio dining and contemporary Southwestern art on the walls provide a romantic setting in which to savor the creative meals found here. The focus at Painted Pony is on fresh ingredients, many from the owners’ private organic garden. Known for: upscale atmosphere; French onion soup; huge rib eye. Average main: $28 2 W. St. George Blvd. 435/634–1700 www.painted-pony.com No lunch Sun. C1.
WHERE TO STAY
Use the coordinates ( A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.
Best Western Coral Hills. $$ HOTEL If you’re looking for a downtown location, this attractive two-story hotel gets you close to the Convention Center, Dixie State University, the Tuacahn Amphitheater, and several restaurants. Pros: large suites with sunken tubs; breakfast included; 19 restaurants nearby. Cons: rooms near the road and the indoor pool can suffer some noise. Rooms from: $100 125 E. St. George Blvd. 435/673–4844, 800/542–7733 www.coralhills.com 95 rooms, 3 suites Breakfast C1.
Inn on the Cliff. $$ HOTEL This modern boutique hotel features panoramic views of St. George, spacious accommodations, and attentive service. Pros: high quality at an affordable price; stunning views; luxury toiletries in rooms. Cons: premade continental breakfast; can’t walk to downtown. Rooms from: $138 511 S. Airport Rd. 435/216–5864 www.innonthecliff.com 27 rooms Breakfast B2.
Fodor’sChoice Red Mountain Resort. $$$$ RESORT This luxury retreat, with its stunning surroundings near the mouth of Snow Canyon, offers a range of outdoor adventures and fitness packages for the body and mind. Pros: down-to-earth spa experience with activities suited to all levels of fitness; packages are among the least expensive among fitness resorts; rate includes meals and spa/fitness facilities. Cons: caters more to activity-seekers than those looking to relax. Rooms from: $215 1275 E. Red Mountain Circle, Ivins 7 miles northwest of St. George 435/673–4905, 877/246–4453 www.redmountainresort.com 82 rooms, 24 villa suites All meals B1.
Seven Wives Inn Bed & Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN Named for an ancestor of the owner who indeed had seven wives, this quaint bed-and-breakfast occupies two Victorian homes and is full of historic charm. Pros: near Ancestor Square and other downtown attractions; antique furnishings; historic charm. Cons: rooms fill quickly in summer; setting too quiet for some travelers. Rooms from: $189 217 N. 100 W 435/628–3737 www.sevenwivesinn.com 13 rooms Breakfast C1.
PERFORMING ARTS
Tuacahn. A rotating series of musicals such as Beauty and the Beast, Sister Act, and The Wizard of Oz entertain at this outdoor amphitheater nestled in a natural sandstone cove. The venue is also used for big name rock concerts and movies! Be sure to check their line-up online, or ask locally. 1100 Tuacahn Dr., Ivins 800/746–9882, 435/652–3300 www.tuacahn.org.
SHOPPING
Ancestor Square. The centerpiece shopping area of downtown St. George is a great place to browse stores and art galleries. Nearby restaurants and cafés offer plenty of options to grab lunch or dinner while out and about. Check out the numerous history-fact plaques throughout this downtown hot spot. St. George Blvd. and Main St. 435/656–8238 www.ancestorsquare.com.
Red Cliffs Mall. Serving the needs of both residents and visitors, this popular mall has a variety of specialty shops and sporting goods stores. Visitors can easily find weather-appropriate clothing or gear here before heading back out to the parks and attractions. 1750 E. Red Cliffs Dr. 435/673–0099 www.redcliffsmall.com.
The Shoppes at Zion. Southern Utah’s popular factory-outlet center has more than 30 stores, including Eddie Bauer, Pendleton, Levi, and Downeast Outfitters. Located off of Exit 8 on I–15, you won’t regret stopping at this outlet mall. Amazing prices and plenty of variety in stores make it a place to keep everyone happy. 250 N. Red Cliffs Dr. 435/674–0133 www.theoutletsatzion.com.
40 miles east of St. George.
Springdale’s growth has followed that of its next-door neighbor, Hurricane. Main attraction Zion National Park, the most popular park destination in Utah and one of the most popular in the United States, keeps this small town lively. Hotels, restaurants, and shops continue to pop up, yet the town still manages to maintain its small-town charm.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
You’ll need a car to get to Springdale, via Highway 9, but getting around once you’re there is easy. The canyon-road shuttle bus—from April through October—makes getting from one end of Springdale to the other stress-free, with bus stops throughout town. It’s also a pleasant town to wander through, with shops, galleries, and restaurants all in a central district.
EXPLORING
Grafton. FAMILY A stone school, dusty cemetery, and a few wooden structures are all that remain of the nearby town of Grafton. This ghost town has been featured in films such as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Attacks by Native Americans drove the original settlers from the site, and their haunting presence can still be felt today. Bridge La., 2 miles west of Rockville.
WHERE TO EAT
Bit & Spur. $$ SOUTHWESTERN This laid-back Springdale institution has been serving locals and tourists for more than 30 years. The well-rounded menu includes fresh fish and pasta dishes, but the emphasis is on creative Southwestern fare such as roasted-sweet-potato tamales and chili-rubbed rib-eye steak. Known for: innovative margaritas; live music; signature rib eye. Average main: $20 1212 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3498 www.bitandspur.com No lunch.
Oscar’s Café. $$ CAFÉ FAMILY A popular destination for hikers and tourists with hearty appetites, this café has a surprisingly extensive menu. Prepare for an active day with their filling breakfast menu, which includes omelets, pancakes, and French toast. Known for: mucho nachos; heated patio; unique side dishes. Average main: $15 948 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3232 www.cafeoscars.com.
Sol Foods Supermarket. $ DELI Stop by the market’s deli and check out the premade sandwiches and abundant salad bar, or order a quick sandwich, wrap, or vegetarian snack of your choice. The staff can also prepare a box lunch for your day in the park. Known for: box lunches; extensive menu; one-stop shop. Average main: $8 995 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3100 www.solfoods.com.
Spotted Dog Café. $$ ECLECTIC This restaurant is more upscale than most in Springdale, but its staff makes patrons feel right at home even if they saunter in wearing hiking shoes. The exposed wood beams and large windows that frame the surrounding trees and rock cliffs set a Western mood, with tablecloths and original artworks supplying a dash of refinement. Known for: locally roasted coffee; sidewalk dining; breakfast buffet. Average main: $20 Flanigan’s Inn, 428 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–0700 www.flanigans.com/dining Limited hrs Nov.–Mar. No lunch.
The Switchback Grille. $$$ AMERICAN Known for its USDA prime steaks and seafood flown in fresh daily, the high-ceilinged Switchback has walls of windows framing stunning views. Like all good steak houses, it serves comforting sides such as roasted potatoes and sautéed mushrooms. Known for: aged beef; casual elegance; seafood specials. Average main: $25 Holiday Inn Express, 1149 S. Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3700 switchbackgrille.com No lunch.
WHERE TO STAY
Holiday Inn Express. $$$$ HOTEL A recent addition to the Holiday Inn Express chain, this property has smartly renovated guest rooms, but what hasn’t changed is a location with amazing views and the convenience of being on the park’s shuttle route. Pros: on shuttle route; beautiful views; room rate includes breakfast. Cons: breakfast area fills up fast. Rooms from: $259 1215 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3200, 800/465–4329 reservations only holidayinnexpress.com 117 rooms, 6 suites Breakfast.
SHOPPING
Bumbleberry Gifts. Next to the Bumbleberry Inn, this quaint gift shop is best known for its fresh-baked bumbleberry pies and locally produced bumbleberry jams. You’ll also find a wide array of gifts and souvenirs, plus an extensive selection of outdoor apparel and footwear. 897 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3224 www.bumbleberrygifts.com.
Fodor’sChoice Worthington Gallery. The emphasis at this superb gallery is on regional art, including pottery, works in glass, jewelry, beguiling copper wind sculptures by Lyman Whitaker, and paintings that capture the dramatic beauty of Southern Utah. 789 Zion Park Blvd. 435/772–3446 worthingtongallery.com.
In September 1996, 1.9 million acres in south-central Utah were designated as the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. Its three distinct sections—the Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Canyons of the Escalante—offer remote backcountry experiences that are hard to find elsewhere in the Lower 48. Waterfalls, Native American ruins and petroglyphs, shoulder-width slot canyons, and dramatic colors all characterize this wilderness. Straddling the northern border of the monument, the small towns of Escalante and Boulder offer access, information, outfitters, lodging, and dining to adventurers. The highway that connects them, Highway 12, is one of the most scenic stretches of road in the Southwest.
Visitor centers in Big Water, Kanab, Cannonville, and Escalante provide current information on road conditions and self-guided tours. Each center has a different theme, with exhibits on archaeology, geology, paleontology, and biology.
Popular day trips include Lower Calf Creek Falls, Spooky Canyon, Devil’s Garden, and Grosvenor Arch. Other worthwhile destinations include Johnson Canyon/Skutumpah Road, Cottonwood Canyon Road, and nearby Kodachrome Basin State Park.
A good way to plan your visit is to hire one of the many experienced outfitters and guides who offer options ranging from narrated tours in air-conditioned vehicles to hiking and backpacking adventures. Most tours feature areas with colorful sandstone rock formations, slot canyons, dramatic cliffs, waterfalls, and scenic back roads.
47 miles east of Bryce Canyon National Park entrance.
Though the Dominguez and Escalante expedition of 1776 came nowhere near this area, the town’s name does honor the Spanish explorer. It was bestowed nearly a century later by a member of a survey party led by John Wesley Powell, charged with mapping this remote area. Today, it has modern amenities and is a gateway to the national monument.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Escalante is only accessible via Highway 12 from the north and south. Fortunately, it’s a drive not to be missed. The tiny downtown is where most amenities are found.
ESSENTIALS
Visitor Information Big Water Visitor Center. 100 Upper Revolution Way, Big Water 435/675–3200 www.blm.gov/visit/big-water-visitor-center. Cannonville Visitor Center. 10 Center St., Cannonville 435/826–5640 www.blm.gov/visit/cannonville-visitor-center. Escalante Interagency Visitor Center. 755 W. Main St. 435/826–5499 www.blm.gov.
TOURS
Opportunities for exploring this fascinating area abound; a good way to start is in the company of an expert tour guide. Activity-based tours include hiking, canyoneering, and horseback riding. Special interest tours cover such subjects as photography, geology, and the area’s flora and fauna.
Escape Goats. Providing guided tours of the slot canyons and other Southwest Utah destinations for more than 15 years, this family-owned operation offers a variety of day and evening hikes, multiday backpacking trips, and photo and artist tours. The company provides shuttle services and personalized attention, and can customize tours for families with children and travelers with limited mobility. Boulder 435/826–4652 www.escalantecanyonguides.com From $90.
Excursions of Escalante. Hiking, backpacking, photography, and canyoneering tours in the Escalante region are custom-fit to your needs and abilities by experienced guides. Canyoneers will be taken into the slot canyons to move through slot chutes or rappel down walls and other obstacles. All gear and provisions are provided whether it’s a day hike or multiday adventure. 125 E. Main St. 800/839–7567 excursionsofescalante.com From $155.
Grand Staircase Discovery Tours. This outfitter has a little bit of everything to offer, from half-day and full-day hikes, to hiking/camping gear, shuttle service, photography, and customized trips. Tours take visitors to ghost towns, slot canyons, rock formations, and more. Big Water 928/614–4099 www.grandstaircasediscoverytours.com From $125.
Hondoo Rivers & Trails. This tour company has been providing high-quality backcountry trips into Capitol Reef National Park, Escalante Canyons, and the High Plateaus for 40 years. From April to October, they’ll take you on hiking, horseback-riding, and Jeep day tours. Trips are designed to explore the geologic landforms in the area, seek out wildflowers in season, and to encounter free-roaming mustangs, bison, and bighorn sheep when possible. Multiday trips can also be arranged. 90 E. Main St., Torrey 435/425–3519 www.hondoo.com From $120.
Southwest Adventure Tours. This experienced tour operator partners with Paria Outpost and Outfitters to offer hikes that wind past the most incredible scenery, including the Wahwaep hoodoos (sandstone rock formations), Sidestep Canyon, the Rimrocks, Deer Range Point, and the Cockscomb area. Hikes range from 1½ to 8 miles round-trip with some moderate climbing. Multiday backpacking and camping trips are available, along with advice about self-guided driving tours and visits to other Utah parks. 382 E. 650 S, Cedar City 435/590–5864, 800/970–5864 www.southwestadventuretours.com $125 half-day hike, $175 full-day hike.
EXPLORING
Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. FAMILY This state park was created to protect a huge repository of petrified wood, easily spotted along two moderate-to-strenuous hiking trails. Of equal interest to area locals and visitors is the park’s Wide Hollow Reservoir at the base of the hiking trails, which has a swimming beach and is good for boating, fishing, and birding. 710 N. Reservoir Rd. 435/826–4466 www.stateparks.utah.gov $8.
Kiva Koffeehouse. A fun place to stop along the way for the spectacular view and a quick bite, this unusual coffeehouse at mile marker 73.86, 13 miles east of Escalante, was constructed by the late artist and inventor Bradshaw Bowman. He began building it when he was in his eighties and spent two years finding and transporting the 13 Douglas-fir logs surrounding the structure. 7144 S. Hwy. 12 435/826–4550 www.kivakoffeehouse.com.
Fodor’sChoice Highway 12 Scenic Byway. Keep your camera handy and steering wheel steady along this route between Escalante and Loa, near Capitol Reef National Park. Though the highway starts at the intersection of U.S. 89, west of Bryce Canyon National Park, the stretch that begins in Escalante is one of the most spectacular. The road passes through Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument and on to Capitol Reef along one of the most scenic stretches of highway in the United States. Be sure to stop at the scenic overlooks; almost every one will give you an eye-popping view, and information panels let you know what you’re looking at. Don’t get distracted while driving, though; the paved road is twisting and steep, and at times climbs over a hogback with sheer drop-offs on both sides.
Kodachrome Basin State Park. Yes, it is named after the old-fashioned color photo film; once you see it you’ll understand why the National Geographic Society gave it the name. The stone spires known as “sand pipes” cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Hike any of the trails to spot some of the 67 pipes in and around the park. The short Angels Palace Trail takes you quickly into the park’s interior, up, over, and around some of the badlands. Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Cannonville 435/679–8562 www.stateparks.utah.gov $8.
SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS
Larger than most national parks at 1.7 million acres, the Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument is popular with backpackers and hard-core mountain-bike enthusiasts. You can explore the rocky landscape, which represents some of America’s last wilderness, via dirt roads with a four-wheel-drive vehicle; most roads depart from Highway 12. Roadside views into the monument are most impressive from Highway 12 between Escalante and Boulder. It costs nothing to enter the park, but fees apply for camping and backcountry permits.
BICYCLING
Hell’s Backbone Road. For a scenic and challenging mountain-bike ride, follow the 44-mile Hell’s Backbone Road from Panguitch to the Escalante region and beyond. The route, also known as Highway 12, gives riders stunning views and a half-dozen quaint townships as a reward for the steep grades. The road begins 7 miles south of Panguitch.
HIKING
Lower Escalante River. Some of the best backcountry hiking in the area lies 15 miles east of Escalante on Route 12, where the Lower Escalante River carves through striking sandstone canyons and gulches. You can camp at numerous sites along the river for extended trips, or spend a little time in the small park where the highway crosses the river.
Utah Canyon Outdoor Store. This outfitter is a great source for local information and offers guided trips into the canyons of Grand Staircase–Escalante and the surrounding area, as well as interpretive nature hikes. The on-site store includes a wide selection of camping and hiking necessities, clothing, and locally handcrafted gifts, jewelry, and art. Be sure to try the freshly made espresso and whole-fruit smoothies. 325 W. Main St. 435/826–4967 utahcanyonoutdoors.com Guided hikes from $120.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY
Cowboy Blues. $$ AMERICAN This locals’ favorite serves up bountiful American food in a rustic Old West setting and keeps it real by sourcing its Black Angus beef from Southern Utah ranches and plucking seasonal vegetables from a local garden. You can enjoy a cocktail or beer on the patio, along with a serving of the eatery’s one-of-a-kind jalapeño poppers. Known for: outdoor dining; blue margaritas; BBQ ribs. Average main: $15 530 W. Main St. 435/826–4577 www.cowboyblues.net.
Escalante Outfitters. $$ CAFÉ When you’re spent after a day of exploration, this is a great place to sit back and relax. Try one of the build-your-own pizzas, known for fresh, local ingredients such as applewood bacon and slow-roasted tomatoes, and pair it with an icy Utah microbrew. Known for: hearty pizzas; casual space; delicious coffee. Average main: $17 310 W. Main St. 435/826–4266 www.escalanteoutfitters.com.
Escalante’s Grand Staircase Bed & Breakfast Inn. $$ B&B/INN Rooms are set apart from the main house, giving this property some motel-type privacy along with bed-and-breakfast amenities. Pros: spacious rooms; Wi-Fi. Cons: no pets. Rooms from: $142 280 W. Main St. 435/826–4890 www.escalantebnb.com 8 rooms Breakfast.
Escalante Outfitters. $ HOTEL A good option if you want a one-stop place to plan and buy gear for your outdoor adventure, or if you’re traveling on a budget and don’t care about amenities. Pros: the food is a pleasant surprise; pet-friendly. Cons: right on the highway; you may have to wait in line for a shower. Rooms from: $55 310 W. Main St. 435/826–4266 www.escalanteoutfitters.com 8 cabins No meals.
SHOPPING
Sculptured Furniture, Art and Ceramics. A husband-and-wife team opened Sculptured Furniture, Art and Ceramics, a gallery offering beautiful clay, ceramic, and wood artistic and functional pieces in their workshop and garden. Three-day workshops focus on creating pottery using traditional methods. 1540 W. Hwy. 12 435/826–4631 sculpturedfurnitureartandceramics.com.
Serenidad Gallery. The Priskas have owned this gallery/shop for more than two decades, seven rooms of eclectic artwork and crafts ranging from paintings inspired by the local landscape and American Indian pottery to Turkish rugs and bronze sculptures. 170 S. 100 West 435/826–4720 www.serenidadgallery.com.