TOP REASONS TO GO
Endless vistas: The view from the Island in the Sky stretches for miles as you look out over millennia of sculpting by wind and rain.
Seeking solitude: Needles, the most interesting part of the park to explore on foot, sees very few visitors, so you’ll have it all to yourself.
Radical rides: The Cataract Canyon rapids and the White Rim Trail are world-class adventures by boat or bike.
American Indian artifacts: View rock art and Ancestral Puebloan dwellings in the park.
Wonderful wilderness: Some of the country’s most untouched landscapes are within the park’s boundaries, and they’re worth the extra effort needed to get there.
The night skies: Far away from city lights, Canyonlands is ideal for stargazing.
Island in the Sky. From any of the overlooks here you can see for miles and look down thousands of feet to canyon floors. Chocolate-brown canyons are capped by white rock, and deep-red monuments rise nearby.
Needles. Pink, orange, and red rock is layered with white rock and stands in spires and pinnacles around grassy meadows. Extravagantly red mesas and buttes interrupt the horizon as in a picture postcard of the Old West.
The Maze. Only the most intrepid adventurers explore this incredibly remote mosaic of rock formations. There’s a reason Butch Cassidy hid out here.
Rivers. For many, rafting through the waterways is the best way to see the park. The Green and Colorado are as wild as when John Wesley Powell explored them in the mid-1800s.
Horseshoe Canyon. Plan on several hours of dirt-road driving to get here, but the famous rock-art panel “Great Gallery” is a grand reward at the end of a long hike.
Getting Oriented
Canyonlands National Park, in southeastern Utah, is divided into three distinct land districts and the river district, so it can be a little daunting to visit. It’s exhausting, but not impossible, to explore the Island in the Sky and Needles in the same day.
Updated by John Blodgett
Canyonlands is truly four parks in one, but the majority of visitors drive through the panoramic vistas of Island in the Sky and barely venture anywhere else. If you’ve come this far, plan a half day to hike around the Needles district and see the park from the bottom up. To truly experience Canyonlands you should also float down the Green and Colorado rivers on a family-friendly rafting trip. (Rapids-lovers can take on the white water in the legendary Cataract Canyon.) The Maze is so remote that its river beds, slot canyons, and stark rock formations are only for the truly hardy.
WHEN TO GO
Gorgeous weather means that spring and fall are most popular for visitors. Canyonlands is seldom crowded, but in the spring backpackers and four-wheelers populate the trails and roads. During Easter week, some of the four-wheel-drive trails in the park are used for Jeep Safari, an annual event drawing thousands of visitors to town.
The crowds thin out by July as the thermostat approaches 100°F and beyond for about four weeks. It’s a great time to get out on the Colorado or Green River winding through the park. October can be rainy, but the region receives only 8 inches of rain annually.
The well-kept secret is that winter is the best time in the park. Crowds are gone, roads are good, and snowcapped mountains stand in the background. Winter here is one of nature’s most memorable shows, with red rock dusted white and low-floating clouds partially obscuring canyons and towers.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
CANYONLANDS IN ONE DAY
Your day begins with a choice: Island in the Sky or Needles. If you want expansive vistas looking across southeast Utah’s canyons, head for the island, where you stand atop a giant mesa. If you want to walk among Canyonlands’ needles and buttes, Needles is your destination. If you have a second or third day in the area, consider contacting an outfitter to take you on a rafting or 4X4 trip. 
TIP → Before venturing into the park, top off your gas tank, pack a picnic lunch, and stock up on plenty of water.
ISLAND IN THE SKY Make your first stop along the main park road at Shafer Canyon Overlook. A short walk takes you out on a finger of land with views of the canyon over both sides. From here you can see Shafer Trail’s treacherous descent as it hugs the canyon walls below.
Stop at the visitor center to learn about ranger talks or special programs, then drive to Mesa Arch. Grab your camera and water bottle for the short hike out to the arch perched on the cliff’s edge. After your excursion, take the spur road to Upheaval Dome, with its picnic spot in the parking lot. A short walk takes you to the first viewpoint of this crater. If you still have energy, 30 more minutes and a little sense of adventure, continue to the second overlook.
Retrace your drive to the main park road and continue to Grand View Point. Stroll along the edge of the rim, and see how many landmarks you can spot in the distance. White Rim Overlook is the best of the scenic spots, particularly if you’re not afraid of heights and venture all the way out to the end of the rocky cliffs (no guardrail here). On the way back to dinner in Moab, spend an hour in Dead Horse Point State Park.
NEEDLES If you can stay overnight as well, then begin today by setting up camp at Squaw Flat or one of the other wonderful campgrounds in Needles. Then hit the Joint Trail, or any of the trails that begin from Squaw Flat, and spend the day hiking in the backcountry of the park. Save an hour for the brief but terrific little hike to Cave Springs. Sleep under more stars than you’ve seen in a long time.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
AIR TRAVEL
The nearest mid-sized airport to southeastern Utah is Grand Junction Regional Airport in Grand Junction, Colorado, approximately 110 miles from Moab.
CAR TRAVEL
Off U.S. 191, Canyonlands’ Island in the Sky visitor center is 21 miles from Arches National Park and 32 miles from Moab on Route 313 west of U.S. 191; the Needles District is reached via Route 211, west of U.S. 191.
Before starting a journey to any of Canyonlands’ three districts, make sure your gas tank is topped off, as there are no services inside the large park. Island in the Sky is 32 miles from Moab, Needles District is 80 miles from Moab, and the Maze is more than 100 miles from Moab. The Island in the Sky road from the district entrance to Grand View Point is 12 miles, with one 5-mile spur to Upheaval Dome. The Needles scenic drive is 10 miles with two spurs, about 3 miles each. Roads in the Maze, suitable only for rugged, high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles, wind for hundreds of miles through the canyons. Within the parks, safety and courtesy mandate that you always park only in designated pull-outs or parking areas.
TRAIN TRAVEL
The nearest train “station” is a solitary Amtrak stop in Green River, about 50 miles northwest of Moab.
PARK ESSENTIALS
ACCESSIBILITY
There are currently no trails in Canyonlands that are accessible to people in wheelchairs, but Grand View Point and Buck Canyon Overlook at Island in the Sky are wheelchair accessible. In Needles, the visitor center, restrooms, Squaw Flat Campground, and Wooden Shoe Overlook are wheelchair accessible. The visitor centers at the Island in the Sky and Needles districts are also accessible, and the park’s pit toilets are accessible with some assistance.
PARK FEES AND PERMITS
Admission is $25 per vehicle, $10 per person on foot or bicycle, and $15 per motorcycle, good for seven days. Your Canyonlands pass is good for all the park’s districts. There’s no entrance fee to the Maze District of Canyonlands. A $50 local park pass grants you admission to both Arches and Canyonlands as well as Natural Bridges and Hovenweep national monuments for one year.
You need a permit for overnight backpacking, four-wheel-drive camping, mountain-bike camping, four-wheel-drive day use in Horse and Lavender canyons, and river trips. Day-use permits are also now required for all motorized vehicles and bicycles on the Elephant Hill and White Rim trails and group sizes are limited. Reservations need to be made at least two weeks in advance.
PARK HOURS
Canyonlands National Park is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, year-round. It is in the Mountain time zone.
CELL-PHONE RECEPTION
Cell-phone reception may be available in some parts of the park, but not reliably so. Public telephones are at the park’s visitor centers.
EDUCATIONAL OFFERINGS
For more information on current schedules and locations of park programs, contact the visitor centers or check the bulletin boards throughout the park. Note that programs change periodically and may sometimes be canceled because of limited staffing.
Explorer Pack. FAMILY Just like borrowing a book from a library, kids can check out a backpack filled with tools for learning. The sturdy backpack includes binoculars, a magnifying glass, and a three-ring binder full of activities. It can be cumbersome to carry everything on a hike, but the backpack is great for around the campfire or back in your hotel room. Explorer packs are available in Canyonlands National Park at the Needles and the Island in the Sky visitor centers. 
Canyonlands National Park 
435/719–2313 
Free.
RANGER PROGRAMS
Grand View Point Overlook Talk. Between April and October, rangers lead short presentations at Grand View Point about the geology that created Utah’s Canyonlands. Grand View Point, 12 miles from park entrance off main park road, Island in the Sky Free 
Closed Oct.–Mar.
Junior Ranger Program. FAMILY Kids ages five to 12 can pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at the visitor centers. It’s full of puzzles, word games, and fun facts about the park and its wildlife. To earn the Junior Ranger badge, they must complete several activities in the booklet, attend a ranger program, watch the park film, and/or gather a bag of litter. Canyonlands National Park 435/719–2313 Free.
RESTAURANTS
There are no dining facilities in the park itself. Restaurants in Monticello and Blanding offer simple meals; most are closed on Sunday and do not serve alcohol. Moab has a multitude of dining options.
HOTELS
There is no lodging inside Canyonlands. Most visitors use Moab as a base to explore the park. The towns of Monticello and Blanding offer basic motels, both family-owned and national chains. Bluff also has motels and bed-and-breakfasts and offers a quiet place to stay. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.
VISITOR INFORMATION
Park Contact Information Canyonlands National Park. 2282 S.W. Resource Blvd., Moab 435/719–2313 
www.nps.gov/cany.
VISITOR CENTERS
Hans Flat Ranger Station. This remote outpost—46 miles east of Route 24; 21 miles south and east of the Y junction and Horseshoe Canyon kiosk on a dirt road—is a treasure trove of books, maps, and other documents about the unforgiving Maze District of Canyonlands. The slot canyons, pictographs, and myriad rock formations are tempting, but having experience is key. The rangers will be direct with you—inexperienced off-road drivers and backpackers can get themselves into serious trouble in the Maze. Just to get here you must drive 46 miles on a dirt road that is sometimes impassable even to 4X4 vehicles. There’s a pit toilet, but no water, food, or services of any kind. If you’re headed for the backcountry, permits cost $30 per group for up to seven days. Rangers offer guided hikes in Horseshoe Canyon on most weekends during the spring and fall. Recreation Rds. 777 and 633, Maze 435/259–2652.
Island in the Sky Visitor Center. The gateway to the world-famous White Rim Trail, this visitor center 21 miles from U.S. 191, past the park entrance off the main park road, is often filled with a mix of mountain bikers, hikers, and tourists. Enjoy the orientation film, then browse the bookstore for information about the Canyonlands region. Exhibits help explain animal adaptations as well as some of the history of the park. Rangers give short talks twice a day. Grand View Point Rd., Island in the Sky 435/259–4712.
Needles District Visitor Center. This gorgeous building is 34 miles from U.S. 191 and less than 1 mile from the park entrance, off the main park road. Needles is remote, so it’s worth stopping to inquire about road, weather, and park conditions. You can also watch the interesting orientation film and get books, trail maps, and other information. Hwy. 211, Needles 435/259–4711.
Island in the Sky Park Road. This 12-mile-long main road inside the park is bisected by a 5-mile side road to the Upheaval Dome area. To enjoy dramatic views, including the Green and Colorado rivers, stop at the overlooks and take the short walks. Once you get to the park, allow at least two hours to explore. Island in the Sky.
Needles District Park Road. You’ll feel like you’ve driven into a Hollywood Western as you roll along the park road in the Needles District. Red mesas and buttes rise against the horizon, blue mountain ranges interrupt the rangelands, and the colorful red-and-white needles stand like soldiers on the far side of grassy meadows. You should get out of the car at a few of the marked roadside stops, including both overlooks at Pothole Point. Allow at least 90 minutes in this less-traveled section of the park. Needles.
ISLAND IN THE SKY
Shafer Trail. This road was probably first established by ancient Native Americans, but in the early 1900s ranchers used it to drive cattle into the canyon. Originally narrow and rugged, it was upgraded during the uranium boom, when miners hauled ore by truck from the canyon floor. Check out the road’s winding route down canyon walls from Shafer Canyon Overlook before you drive it to see why it’s mostly used by daring four-wheelers and energetic mountain bikers. Off the main road, less than 1 mile from the park entrance, it descends 1,400 feet to the White Rim. Check with the visitor center about road conditions before driving the Shafer Trail. It’s often impassable after rains or snow. Island in the Sky.
PLANTS AND WILDLIFE IN CANYONLANDS
Wildlife is not the attraction in Canyonlands, as many of the creatures sleep during the heat of the day. On the bright side, there are fewer people and less traffic to scare the animals away. Cool mornings and evenings are the best time to spot them, especially in summer when the heat keeps them in cool, shady areas. Mule deer are nearly always seen along the roadway as you enter the Needles District, and you’ll no doubt see jackrabbits and small rodents darting across the roadway. Approximately 250 bighorn sheep populate the park in the Island in the Sky District, and the Maze shelters about 100 more. If you happen upon one of these regal animals, do not approach it even if it is alone, as bighorn sheep are skittish by nature and easily stressed. Also, report your sighting to a ranger.
NEEDLES
Cowboy Line Camp. FAMILY This fascinating stop on the Cave Springs Trail is an authentic example of cowboy life more than a century ago. You do not need to complete the entire trail (which includes two short ladders and some rocky hiking) to see the 19th-century artifacts at the Cowboy Camp. Off Cave Springs Rd., 2.3 miles from visitor center, Needles.
ISLAND IN THE SKY
Fodor’sChoice
Grand View Point. This 360-degree view is the main event for many visitors to Island in the Sky. Look down on the Colorado and Green rivers and contemplate the power and persistence of water and the vast canyons carved over the millennia. Stretch your legs on the trails along the canyon edge. Off main road, 12 miles from park entrance, Island in the Sky.
Green River Overlook. From the road it’s just 100 yards to this stunning view of the Green River Canyon to the south and west. It’s not far from Island in the Sky campground. About 1 mile off Upheaval Dome Rd., 8 miles from park entrance, Island in the Sky.
Fodor’sChoice Mesa Arch. If you don’t have time for the 2,000 arches in nearby Arches National Park, you should take the easy, half-mile walk to Mesa Arch. The arch is above a cliff that drops 800 feet to the canyon bottom. Through the arch, views of Washerwoman Arch and surrounding buttes, spires, and canyons make this a favorite photo opportunity. Off main road, 7 miles from park entrance, Island in the Sky.
Upheaval Dome. This mysterious crater is one of the wonders of Island in the Sky. Some geologists believe it’s an eroded salt dome, but others think it was made by a meteorite. The trip to the first overlook is about a half-mile; energetic visitors can continue to the second overlook as well for a better perspective. Upheaval Dome Rd., 12 miles from park entrance, Island in the Sky.
NEEDLES
Pothole Point Trail. Microscopic creatures lie dormant in pools that fill only after rare rainstorms. When the rains do come, some eggs hatch within hours and life becomes visible. If you’re lucky, you’ll hit Pothole Point after a storm. The dramatic views of the Needles and Six Shooter Peak make this easy, 0.6-mile round-trip worthwhile. Plan for about 45 minutes. There’s no shade, so wear a hat and take plenty of water. Off main road, about 10 miles from Needles district park entrance, Needles.
Sunset is one of the picture-perfect times in Canyonlands, as the slanting sun shines over the vast network of canyons that stretch out below Island in the Sky. A moonlight drive to Grand View Point can also give you lasting memories as the moon drenches the white sandstone in light. Likewise, late-afternoon color in the spires and towers at the Needles District is a humbling, awe-inspiring scene.
Wooden Shoe Arch. Kids will enjoy looking for the tiny window in the rock that looks like a wooden shoe with a turned-up toe. If you can’t find it on your own, there’s a marker to help you. Off main road, about 6 miles from Needles entrance to park, Needles.
Canyonlands is one of the world’s best destinations for adrenaline junkies. You can rock climb, mountain bike treacherous terrain, tackle world-class white-water rapids, and make your 4X4 crawl over steep cliffs along precipitous drops. Compared with other national parks, Canyonlands allows you to enjoy an amazing amount of solitude while having the adventure of a lifetime.
Holiday River Expeditions. Since 1966, this outfitter has offered one- to eight-day adventures on the San Juan, Green, and Colorado rivers, including inside Canyonlands National Park. They also offer multisport trips, women’s retreats, and bike adventures, including the White Rim Trail. 2075 E. Main St., Green River 435/564–3273, 800/624–6323 www.bikeraft.com From $190.
NAVTEC. Doc Williams was the first physician in Moab in 1896, and some of his descendants never left, sharing his love for the area through this rafting, canyoneering, and 4X4 company. Whether you want to explore by boat, boots, or wheels, you’ll find a multitude of one-day and multiday options here. 321 N. Main St., Moab 435/259–7983, 800/833–1278 www.navtec.com.
Sheri Griffith Expeditions. In addition to trips through the white water of Cataract, Westwater, and Desolation canyons, on the Colorado and Green rivers, this company also offers specialty expeditions for women, writers, and families. One of their more luxurious expeditions features dinners cooked by a professional chef and served on linen-covered tables. Cots and other sleeping amenities also make roughing it a little more comfortable. 2231 S. U.S. 191, Moab 435/259–8229, 800/332–2439 www.griffithexp.com From $85.
TOURS
Redtail Aviation. This company’s daily, regional tours give you an eagle’s-eye view of the park, and you’ll walk away with new respect and understanding of the word “wilderness.” The Canyonlands Tour, one of several flightseeing options, lasts for one hour. A two-person minimum applies. Canyonlands Field Airport, N. Hwy. 191, 94 W. Aviation Way, Moab 435/259–7421 www.redtailaviation.com From $99 per person.
TOURS AND OUTFITTERS
Magpie Cycling. Professional guides and mountain biking instructors lead groups (or lone riders) on daylong and multiday bike trips exploring the Moab region’s most memorable terrain, including the White Rim, Needles, and the Maze. If you need to rent a bike, Magpie will meet you at its preferred shop, Poison Spider Bicycles ( 435/259–7882 or 800/635–7882 poisonspiderbicycles.com ). 497 N. Main St., Moab 435/259–4464, 800/546–4245 www.magpieadventures.com.
Rim Tours. Reliable, friendly, and professional, Rim Tours has been taking guests on guided one-day or multiday mountain-bike tours, including Klondike Bluffs (which enters Arches) and the White Rim Trail (inside Canyonlands) since 1985. Bike rentals are also available. Bike skills a little rusty? Rim Tours also offers mountain-bike instructional tours and skill clinics. 1233 S. U.S. 191, Moab 435/259–5223 www.rimtours.com Day tours from $145; multiday from $825.
Western Spirit Cycling Adventures. Head here for fully supported, go-at-your-own-pace, multiday mountain-bike and road-bike tours throughout the western states, including trips to Canyonlands, Trail of the Ancients, and the 140-mile Kokopelli Trail, which runs from Grand Junction, Colorado, to Moab. Guides versed in the geologic wonders of the area cook up meals worthy of the scenery each night. Ask about family rides, too. There’s also the option to combine a Green River kayak trip with the three-night White Rim Trail ride. 478 Mill Creek Dr., Moab 435/259–8732, 800/845–2453 www.westernspirit.com From $950.
TRAILS
White Rim Road. Mountain bikers from all over the world like to brag that they’ve conquered this 100-mile ride. The trail’s fame is well deserved: it traverses steep roads, broken rock, and dramatic ledges, as well as long stretches that wind through the canyons and look down onto others. If you’re biking White Rim without an outfitter, you’ll need careful planning, vehicle support, and much sought-after backcountry reservations. Permits are available no more than four months, and no less than two days, prior to permit start date. There is a 15-person, three-vehicle limit for groups. Day-use permits are also now required and can be obtained at the Island in the Sky visitor center or reserved 24 hours in advance through the park’s website. Fifty bicycle permits are available each day. Off main park road about 1 mile from entrance, then about 11 miles on Shafer Trail, Island in the Sky 435/259–4351 www.nps.gov/cany.
In Labyrinth Canyon, north of the park boundary, and in Stillwater Canyon, in the Island in the Sky District, the river is quiet and calm and there’s plenty of shoreside camping. The Island in the Sky leg of the Colorado River, from Moab to its confluence with the Green River and downstream a few more miles to Spanish Bottom, is ideal for both canoeing and for rides with an outfitter in a large, stable jet boat. If you want to take a self-guided flat-water float trip in the park you must obtain a $30 permit, which you have to request by mail or fax. Make your upstream travel arrangements with a shuttle company before you request a permit. For permits, contact the reservation office at park headquarters ( 435/259–4351).
Below Spanish Bottom, about 64 miles downstream from Moab, 49 miles from the Potash Road ramp, and 4 miles south of the confluence, the Colorado churns into the first rapids of legendary Cataract Canyon. Home of some of the best white water in the United States, this piece of river between the Maze and the Needles districts rivals the Grand Canyon stretch of the Colorado River for adventure. During spring melt-off these rapids can rise to staggering heights and deliver heart-stopping excitement. The canyon cuts through the very heart of Canyonlands, where you can see this amazing wilderness area in its most pristine form. The water calms down a bit in summer. Outfitters will take you for the ride of your life in this wild canyon, where the river drops more steeply than anywhere else on the Colorado River (in ¾ mile, the river drops 39 feet). You can join an expedition lasting anywhere from one to six days, or you can purchase a $30 permit for a self-guided trip from park headquarters.
TOURS
Oars. This well-regarded outfitter can take you for several days of rafting and/or hiking on the Colorado and Green rivers. Hiking/interpretive trips are available in Canyonlands and Arches national parks, and for those not into white water, they also offer calm-water trips. 2540 S. Hwy. 191, Moab 435/259–5865, 800/342–5938 www.oarsutah.com From $119.
Tag-A-Long Expeditions. This outfitter, more than 50 years in business, has been taking people into the white water of Cataract Canyon and Canyonlands for longer than any other outfitter in Moab. They also run 4X4 expeditions into the backcountry and calm-water excursions on the Colorado and Green rivers. Half-day to six-day trips are available for groups of three to 11 people. 452 N. Main St., Moab 435/259–8946, 800/453–3292 www.tagalong.com From $185.
Nearly 200 miles of challenging backcountry roads lead to campsites, trailheads, and natural and cultural features in Canyonlands. All of the roads require high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles, and many are inappropriate for inexperienced drivers. The 100-mile White Rim Trail, for example, can be extremely challenging, so make sure that your four-wheel-drive skills are well-honed and that you are capable of making basic road and vehicle repairs. Carry at least one full-size spare tire, extra gas, extra water, a shovel, a high-lift jack, and—October through April—chains for all four tires. Double-check to see that your vehicle is in top-notch condition, for you definitely don’t want to break down in the interior of the park: towing expenses can exceed $1,000.
Day-use permits, available at the park visitor centers or 24 hours in advance through the park website, are required for motorized and bicycle trips on the Elephant Hill and White Rim trails. For overnight four-wheeling trips you must purchase a $30 permit, which you can reserve no more than four months and no fewer than two days in advance by contacting the Backcountry Reservations Office ( 435/259–4351). Cyclists share all roads, so be aware and cautious of their presence. Vehicular traffic traveling uphill has the right-of-way. It’s best to check at the visitor center for current road conditions before taking off into the backcountry. You must carry a washable, reusable toilet with you in the Maze District and carry out all waste.
ISLAND IN THE SKY
White Rim Road. Winding around and below the Island in the Sky mesa top, the dramatic, 100-mile White Rim Road offers a once-in-a-lifetime driving experience. As you tackle Murphy’s Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and more formidable obstacles, you will get some fantastic views of the park. A trip around the loop can be done in one long day, or you can camp overnight with advance reservations. Campsite reservations open in July for the subsequent year, and popular spring and fall weekends fill up immediately. Day-use permits, which are available at the park visitor center or 24 hours in advance through the park website, are required for motorized and bicycle trips on White Rim Road. Fifty permits are available each day for vehicles, and 50 for bicycles. Bring plenty of water, a spare tire, and a jack, as no services are available on the road. White Rim Road starts at the end of Shafer Trail. Off main park road about 1 mile from entrance, then about 11 miles on Shafer Trail, Island in the Sky 435/259–4351 www.nps.gov/cany.
THE MAZE
Flint Trail. This remote, rugged road is the most popular in the Maze District, but it’s not an easy ride. It has 2 miles of switchbacks that drop down the side of a cliff face. You reach Flint Trail from the Hans Flat Ranger Station, 46 miles from the closest paved road. From Hans Flat to the end of the road at the Doll House it’s 41 miles, a drive that takes at least six hours one-way. The Maze is not generally a destination for a day trip, so you’ll have to purchase an overnight backcountry permit for $30. Despite its remoteness, the Maze District can fill to capacity during spring and fall, so plan ahead. Hans Flat Ranger Station, National Park Rd. 777, 46 miles east of Rte. 24, Maze.
NEEDLES
Elephant Hill. The first 3 miles of this route are designated as passable by all vehicles, but don’t venture out without asking about road conditions. For the rest of the trail, only 4X4 vehicles are allowed. The route is so difficult that many people get out and walk—it’s faster than you can drive it in some cases. The trek from Elephant Hill Trailhead to Devil’s Kitchen is 3½ miles; from the trailhead to the Confluence Overlook, it’s a 14½-mile round-trip and requires at least eight hours. Don’t attempt this without a well-maintained 4X4 vehicle and spare gas, tires, and off-road knowledge. A day-use permit, which is available at the park visitor center or 24 hours in advance through the park website, is required for motorized and bicycle trips on the Elephant Hill Trail. Off main park road, 7 miles from park entrance, Needles.
At Canyonlands National Park you can immerse yourself in the intoxicating colors, smells, and textures of the desert. Many of the trails are long, rolling routes over slickrock and sand in landscapes dotted with juniper, pinyon, and sagebrush. Interconnecting trails in the Needles District provide excellent opportunities for weeklong backpacking excursions. The Maze trails are primarily accessed via four-wheel-drive vehicle. In the separate Horseshoe Canyon area, Horseshoe Canyon Trail takes a considerable amount of effort to reach, as it is more than 100 miles from Moab, 32 miles of which are a bumpy, and often sandy, dirt road.
ISLAND IN THE SKY
EASY
Aztec Butte Trail. The highlight of the 2-mile round-trip hike is the chance to see Ancestral Puebloan granaries. The view into Taylor Canyon is also nice. Easy. Island in the Sky 
Trailhead: on Upheaval Dome Rd., about 6 miles from park entrance.
Grand View Point Trail. If you’re looking for a level walk with some of the best scenery in the West, stop at Grand View Point and wander this 2-mile round-trip trail along the cliff edge. Many people just stop at the paved overlook and drive on, but you’ll gain breathtaking perspective by strolling along this flat cliffside trail. On a clear day you can see up to 100 miles to the Maze and Needles districts of the park, the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers, and each of Utah’s major laccolithic mountain ranges: the Henrys, Abajos, and La Sals. Easy. Island in the Sky Trailhead: on main park road, 12 miles from visitor center.
Fodor’sChoice Mesa Arch Trail. FAMILY After the overlooks, this is the most popular trail in the park, a ½-mile loop that acquaints you with desert plants and terrain and offers vistas of the La Sal Mountains. The highlight of this hike is a natural arch window perched over an 800-foot drop, giving a rare downward glimpse through the arch rather than the usual upward view of the sky. Park rangers say this is one of the best spots to enjoy the sunrise. Easy. Island in the Sky Trailhead: 6 miles from visitor center.
Whale Rock Trail. FAMILY If you’ve been hankering to walk across some of that pavement-smooth stuff they call slickrock, the hike to Whale Rock will make your feet happy. This 1-mile round-trip adventure, complete with handrails to help you make the tough final 100-foot climb, takes you to the very top of the whale’s back. Once you get there, you are rewarded with great views of Upheaval Dome and Trail Canyon. Easy. Island in the Sky Trailhead: on Upheaval Dome Rd., 11 miles from park entrance.
MODERATE
Upheaval Dome Trail. It’s fun to imagine that a giant meteorite crashed to earth here, sending shockwaves around the planet. But some people believe that salt, collecting and expanding upward, formed a dome and then exploded, causing the crater. Either way, it’s worth the steep hike to see it and decide for yourself. You reach the main overlook after just 0.8 mile, but you can double your pleasure by going on to a second overlook for a better view. The trail is steeper and rougher after the first overlook. Round-trip to the second overlook is 2 miles. Moderate. Island in the Sky Trailhead: on Upheaval Dome Rd., 12 miles from park entrance.
DIFFICULT
Syncline Loop Trail. If you’re up for a strenuous day of hiking, try this 8-mile trail that circles Upheaval Dome. You get limited views of the dome itself as you actually make a complete loop around the outside of the crater. Stretches of the trail are rocky, rugged, and steep. Difficult. Island in the Sky Trailhead: on Upheaval Dome Rd., 12 miles from park entrance.
THE MAZE
DIFFICULT
Horseshoe Canyon Trail. This remote region of Canyonlands National Park is accessible by dirt road, and then only in good weather. Park at the lip of the canyon and hike 6½ miles round-trip to the Great Gallery, considered by some to be the most significant rock-art panel in North America. Ghostly life-size figures in the Barrier Canyon style populate the amazing panel. The hike is moderately strenuous, with a 750-foot descent. Allow at least six hours for the trip and take a gallon of water per person. There’s no camping allowed in the canyon, although you can camp on top near the parking lot. Difficult. Maze Trailhead: 32 miles east of Rte. 24.
NEEDLES
EASY
Slickrock Trail. Wear a hat and carry plenty of water if you’re on this trail in summer—you won’t find any shade along the 2.4-mile round-trip trek. This is the rare frontcountry site where you might spot one of the few remaining native herds of bighorn sheep in the national park system. Nice panoramic views. Easy. Needles Trailhead: on main park road, about 10 miles from park entrance.
MODERATE
Cave Spring Trail. FAMILY One of the best, most interesting trails in the park takes you past a historic cowboy camp, prehistoric pictographs, and great views. Two wooden ladders and one short, steep stretch may make this a little daunting for the extremely young or old, but it’s also a short hike (0.6 mile), features some shade, and has many features packed into half a mile. Allow about 45 minutes. Moderate. Needles Trailhead: off main park road on Cave Springs Rd., 2.3 miles from visitor center.
DIFFICULT
Chesler Park Loop. Chesler Park is a grassy meadow dotted with spires and enclosed by a circular wall of colorful “needles.” One of Canyonlands’ more popular trails leads through the area to the famous Joint Trail. The trail is 6 miles round-trip to the viewpoint. The entire loop is 11 miles. Difficult. Needles Trailhead: accessed via Elephant Hill Trailhead, off main park road, about 7 miles from park entrance.
Fodor’sChoice Joint Trail. Part of the Chesler Park Loop, this well-loved trail follows a series of deep, narrow fractures in the rock. A shady spot in summer, it will give you good views of the Needles formations for which the district is named. The loop travels briefly along a four-wheel-drive road and is 11 miles round-trip; allow at least five hours to complete the hike. Difficult. Needles Trailhead: accessed by Elephant Hill Trailhead, off main park road, 7 miles from park entrance.
Fodor’sChoice Canyonlands and many of the surrounding areas draw climbers from all over the world. Permits are not required, but because of the sensitive archaeological nature of the park it’s imperative that you stop at the visitor center to pick up regulations pertaining to the park’s cultural resources. Popular climbing routes include Moses and Zeus towers in Taylor Canyon, and Monster Tower and Washerwoman Tower on the White Rim Road. Like most routes in Canyonlands, these climbs are for experienced climbers only. Just outside the Needles District, in Indian Creek, is one of the country’s best traditional climbing areas.
Moab is the major gateway to both Arches and Canyonlands national parks, with the most outfitters, shops, and lodging options of the area. A handful of communities that are much smaller and have fewer amenities is scattered around the Needles and Island in the Sky districts along U.S. 191.
Roughly 55 miles south of Moab is Monticello. Convenient to the Needles District, it lies at an elevation of 7,000 feet, making it a cool summer refuge from the desert heat. In winter, it gets downright cold and sees deep snow; the Abajo Mountains, whose highest point is 11,360 feet, rise to the west of town. Monticello motels serve the steady stream of tourists who venture south of Moab, but the town offers few dining or shopping opportunities. Blanding, 21 miles south of Monticello, prides itself on old-fashioned conservative values. By popular vote there’s a ban on the sale of liquor, beer, and wine, so the town has no state liquor store and its restaurants do not serve alcoholic beverages. Blanding is a good resting point if you’re traveling south from Canyonlands to Natural Bridges Natural Monument, Grand Gulch, Lake Powell, or the Navajo Nation. About 25 miles south of Blanding, tiny Bluff is doing its best to stay that way. It’s a great place to stop if you aren’t looking for many amenities but value beautiful scenery, silence, and starry nights. Bluff is the most common starting point for trips on the San Juan River, which serves as the northern boundary for the Navajo Reservation; it’s also a wonderful place to overnight if you’re planning a visit to Hovenweep National Monument about 30 miles away.
Bluff International Balloon Festival. Colorful hot-air balloons—some from as far away as England—take to the skies over Valley of the Gods and the town of Bluff during this mid-January festival. It’s always a friendly crowd, and the balloon pilots often will trade a free ride if you help as part of their chase crew. Attend the “glow in” if weather doesn’t prohibit, and see balloons illuminated against the night sky by the flame from the propane heaters that fill them with hot air. Bring warm clothing and expect crisp, clear weather. Bluff Community Center, 3rd East St. at Mulberry Ave., Bluff 435/672–2290 bluffutah.org/bluffballoonfestival.
Visitor Information Blanding Visitor Center. 12 N. Grayson Pkwy., Blanding 435/678–3662 www.blanding-ut.gov. Southeastern Utah Welcome Center. 216 S. Main St., Monticello 435/587–3401 www.monticelloutah.org.
Fodor’sChoice Dead Horse Point State Park. One of the gems of Utah’s state park system, 34 miles southwest from Moab, this park overlooks a sweeping oxbow of the Colorado River some 2,000 feet below. Dead Horse Point itself is a small peninsula connected to the main mesa by a narrow neck of land. As the story goes, cowboys used to drive wild mustangs onto the point and pen them there with a brush fence. There’s a modern visitor center with a coffee shop (March–October) and museum. The park’s Intrepid Trail System has become popular with mountain bikers and hikers alike. Be sure to walk the 4-mile rim trail loop and drive to the park’s eponymous point if it’s a nice day. Hwy. 313 435/259–2614, 800/322–3770 camping reservations www.stateparks.utah.gov $15 per vehicle.
Fodor’sChoice Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum. FAMILY Possibly the most interesting state park in Utah, Edge of the Cedars is one of the nation’s foremost museums dedicated to the Ancestral Puebloan culture. Behind the museum, an interpretive trail leads to an ancient village that they once inhabited. Portions of the village have been partially excavated and visitors can climb down a ladder into a 1,000-year-old ceremonial room called a kiva. The museum displays a variety of pots, baskets, spear points, and rare artifacts—even a pair of sandals said to date back 1,500 years. 660 W. 400 N, Blanding 435/678–2238 stateparks.utah.gov $5 Closed Sun. in Nov.–Mar.
Natural Bridges National Monument. Stunning natural bridges, ancient Native American ruins, and magnificent scenery throughout make Natural Bridges National Monument a must-see if you have time to make the trip. Sipapu is one of the largest natural bridges in the world, spanning 225 feet and standing more than 140 feet tall. You can take in the Sipapu, Owachomo, and Kachina bridges via an 8.6-mile round-trip hike that meanders around and under them. A 13-site primitive campground is an optimal spot for stargazing. The national monument is about 120 miles southwest of the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park and approximately 45 miles from Blanding. Hwy. 275, off Hwy. 95, Natural Bridges National Monument 435/692–1234 www.nps.gov/nabr $10 per vehicle, $5 for those entering park on foot, bicycle, or motorcycle.
Valley of the Gods. A red fairyland of slender spires and buttes, the Valley of the Gods is a smaller version of Monument Valley. Approximately 12 miles west of Bluff, you can take a pretty, private drive through this relatively unvisited area on the 17-mile-long Valley of the Gods Road, which begins on Route 163 and ends on Route 261. Mexican Hat 435/587–1500.
Thin Bear Indian Arts. The Hosler family has operated this tiny little trading post in the same location since 1973. Authentic jewelry, rugs, baskets, and pottery are for sale at this friendly spot. 1944 S. Main St., Blanding 435/678–2940 Closed Sun.
BEST CAMPGROUNDS IN CANYONLANDS
Canyonlands campgrounds are some of the most beautiful in the national park system. At the Needles District, campers will enjoy fairly private campsites tucked against red rock walls and dotted with pinyon and juniper trees. At Island in the Sky, starry nights and spectacular vistas make the small campground an intimate treasure. Hookups are not available in either of the park’s campgrounds; however, the sites are long enough to accommodate units up to 28 feet long.
Squaw Flat Campground. The defining features of the camp sites at Squaw Flat are house-size red rock formations, which provide some shade, offer privacy from adjacent campers, and make this one of the more unique campgrounds in the national park system. Off main road, about 5 miles from park entrance, Needles 435/259–4711.
Willow Flat Campground. From this little campground on a mesa top, you can walk to spectacular views of the Green River. Most sites have a bit of shade from juniper trees. Off main park road, about 9 miles from park entrance, Island in the Sky 435/259–4712.
Desert Rose Inn and Cabins. $$$ HOTEL Bluff’s largest hotel is an attractive, wood-sided lodge with a huge two-story front porch. Pros: clean, comfortable rooms; friendly staff; pool, Jacuzzi, and fitness room. Cons: no historic charm; town not a culinary hub. 
Rooms from: $160 701 W. Main St., Bluff 435/672–2303, 888/475–7673 www.desertroseinn.com 46 rooms, 7 cabins 
No meals.
Recapture Lodge. $ HOTEL The knowledgeable owners for 30 years of this family-owned and -operated inn have detailed tips for exploring the surrounding canyon country. Pros: set on shady grounds with riverside walking trails; owner is a wildlife biologist and naturalist happy to share his knowledge; pets and horses welcome. Cons: older property; small rooms and basic amenities; no phones in rooms. Rooms from: $98 220 E. Main St. (U.S. 191), Bluff 435/672–2281 www.recapturelodge.com 26 rooms, 2 houses Breakfast.