MOAB AND SOUTHEASTERN UTAH

Updated by Aly Capito

Southeastern Utah—especially Moab—is full of converts, and not so much in a religious sense. These are people formerly from suburbs or cities who came here long ago for vacation and never truly left. They may have spent just a few days surrounded by the vast desert and the clean, welcoming rivers, but in that short time, the land became a part of them. Moab has a certain kind of magic to it, as anyone who has ever visited will tell you, and many stay for the empty beauty of the region.

Although the towns tend to be visually simple in this part of the state, the beauty that surrounds them is awe-inspiring. You can hear about the canyons, arches, and natural bridges, but no words come close to their enormous presence.

ORIENTATION AND PLANNING

GETTING ORIENTED

Interstate 70 is the speedway that gets you across Utah, but to dip into southeastern Utah you’ll need to use the main artery, U.S. 191, which runs south toward the Arizona border. The only road that stretches any distance westward across the region is Highway 95, which dead-ends at Lake Powell. No matter which of the state roads you use to explore the area, you’re in for a treat. Here, the earth is red, purple, and orange. The Manti–La Sal Mountains rise out of the desert like ships. Mesas, buttes, and pinnacles interrupt the horizon in a most surprising way. But this is some of the most remote country in the United States, so services are sometimes far apart.

Moab. Small but unbelievably busy in spring, summer, and fall, Moab is on the Colorado River, south of I–70 on U.S. 191. More than 100 miles from any large town, it’s close to nothing, and its residents are just fine with that.

Southeastern Utah. From Green River to Mexican Hat, this large swath of desert has a very small population. The most easily reached destinations are the small towns right on U.S. 191 or I–70, but some of the most beautiful stops require substantial but worthwhile detours off these main roads. Lake Powell, about three hours southwest of Moab, remains a favorite among visitors and locals alike.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Beauty from another world: The terra-cotta expanse of moonlike and open desert here is unparalleled.

Get out and play: Mountain and road biking, rafting, rock climbing, hiking, four-wheeling, and cross-country skiing are all wildly popular.

Creature comforts: Remote, southeastern Utah—and Moab, in particular—has an array of lodging and dining options, including elegant bistros, fancy hotels, and quaint bed-and-breakfasts.

Catch a festival: Especially in the spring and summer months, this area is chock-full of gatherings focused on art, music, and recreation.

Another state of being: The openness of this desert creates a friendly culture in which time and money aren’t the main focus. Once that red sand gets in your blood, you might never leave.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

The most enjoyable times to be in this part of Utah are the beginning and end of high season, March and October, respectively. April and May have the best weather, but also the most visitors. May to September is the best time to hit the river, but is also when the towns and national parks are filled with people, and the temperatures can be downright fiery. From the beginning of November through the end of February some restaurants and stores shut down, and things can get eerily quiet. To compensate, almost all hotels offer steep discounts (sometimes as much as 40% off high-season prices), which can make visiting in the off-season a steal.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

With its variety of restaurants and lodgings, Moab is a great place to base your southeastern Utah adventures. From here, it’s an easy drive to both Arches and Canyonlands national parks, each of which require at least a day to take in. At Arches, hike to the famous Delicate Arch. At Canyonlands, the Island in the Sky District is a stunning area to visit, with its crow’s-nest views of deep canyons, thin spires, and the Colorado River. After a few days surrounded by rock and dust, you can spend one or several more days on the Green, San Juan, or Colorado river. Outfitters also offer half-day, one-day, or multiday trips on mountain bikes and jeeps, if either of those are more your speed. Many side trips from Moab can be taken in a day, some worthwhile treks being to the La Sal Mountains, Goblin Valley State Park, and the little town of Bluff. More southern locales, like Natural Bridges National Monument, Lake Powell, and Monument Valley, will be much more enjoyable with an overnight stay.

Moab and Southeastern Utah

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

AIR TRAVEL

The nearest large airport to southeastern Utah is Walker Field Airport in Grand Junction, Colorado, 110 miles from Moab, but you can catch a regional flight directly to Moab. Rental cars are now available at the Moab Airport; advanced reservations are highly recommended.

Air Contacts Grand Junction Regional Airport. dingbat 2828 Walker Field Dr., Grand Junction dingbat 970/244–9100 dingbat www.gjairport.com.

CAR TRAVEL

To reach southeastern Utah from Salt Lake City, take I–15 to U.S. 6 and then U.S. 191 south. From Colorado or more eastern locations, use I–70 or U.S. 491. Take U.S. 191 from either Wyoming or Arizona. Most roads are well-maintained two-lane highways, though snow can be a factor during winter travel. Be sure your car is in good working order and keep the gas tank topped off, as there are long stretches of empty road between towns.

Information Utah State Road Conditions. dingbat 511 toll-free within Utah, 866/511–8824 toll-free outside Utah dingbat www.udot.utah.gov.

RESTAURANTS

Including a few surprising twists, Moab-area restaurants have anything you might crave. The other smaller towns in southeastern Utah don’t have quite the culinary kaleidoscope, and focus on all-American cuisine. Though not the best destination for vegetarians or those with a restricted diet, the comfort food will satisfy after a day of activity.

HOTELS

Every type of lodging is available in southeastern Utah, from economy chain motels, to B&Bs and high-end, high-adventure resorts. Some of the best values in Moab are condominiums available for rent. Start with the Moab Travel Council for listings and suggestions of accommodations to suit your group size and budget. Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com.

Contacts Moab Property Management. dingbat 435/259–5955, 800/505–5343, 435/514–7281 dingbat www.moabutahlodging.com.

WHAT IT COSTS

MOAB

When you first drive down Main Street (Moab’s commercial, downtown strip), you might not get the town’s appeal right away. The wide thoroughfare is lined with T-shirt shops and touristy restaurants. But don’t let Moab’s impersonal exterior fool you; take a few walks, visit some of the town’s shops, and talk to some of the residents, and you’ll realize this is a town centered on community. Local theater, local radio, and local art rule. At its core, this is a frontier outpost, where people have had to create their own livelihoods for more than 100 years. In the late 1880s, it was settled as a farming and ranching community. By the 1950s it became a center for uranium mining after Charlie Steen found a huge deposit of the stuff outside town. After about a decade of unbelievable monetary success, there was a massive downturn in the mining industry, and Moab plunged into an economic free fall. Then came tourism. Moab was able to rebuild itself with the dollars of sightseers, four-wheelers, bikers, and boaters. Today the town is dealing with environmental and development issues while becoming more and more popular with tourists and second-homeowners from around the world. No matter how it changes, though, one thing simply doesn’t: this town has a different flavor from any other found in the state.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Although Moab is friendly to bikes and pedestrians, the only practical way to reach it is by car. If you’re coming from the south, U.S. 191 runs straight into Moab. If you’re arriving from Salt Lake City, travel 50 miles via I–15, then go 150 miles southeast via U.S. 6, and finally 30 miles south via U.S. 191. Signs for Moab will be obvious past Green River. dingbat TIP → If you are approaching from the east on U.S. 70, take Exit 214 into the ghost town of Cisco, and then drive down Colorado River Scenic Byway—Route 128 into Moab. The views of the river, rocks, and mesas are second to none.

FESTIVALS

As much as Moab is a place for the outdoors, it’s also a spot to experience extremely popular festivals and events in a small-town setting. For the most part, these are time-honored institutions that draw quite a crowd of both locals and visitors.

Easter Jeep Safari. Each year during the weeklong Easter Jeep Safari, thousands of 4X4 vehicles descend on Moab to tackle some of the toughest backcountry roads in America. dingbat Moab dingbat 435/259–7625 dingbat www.rr4w.com.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Moab Arts Festival. FAMILY Every Memorial Day weekend, artists from across the West gather at Moab’s Swanny City Park to show their wares, including pottery, photography, and paintings. This fun festival is small enough to be manageable, charges no admission, and sells a variety of affordable artworks. Soundtracked by live music, they also have activities for kids and lots of food. The arts festival partners with local libation producers to bring a wine and beer festival to the park as part of the event. dingbat Moab dingbat 435/259–2742 Moab Arts Council dingbat www.moabartsfestival.org.

Moab Music Festival. Moab’s red rocks resonate with world-class music—classical, jazz, and traditional—during this annual festival that takes place at indoor and outdoor venues including the city park, local auditoriums, private homes, and a natural stone grotto along the Colorado River. Musicians from all over the globe perform, and it’s one of the West’s top music showcases. The festival starts the Thursday before Labor Day and runs about two weeks. dingbat Moab dingbat 435/259–7003 dingbat www.moabmusicfest.org.

Pumpkin Chuckin’ Festival. This unique event brings together the diverse Moab community on the last Saturday of October. This festival may not be like any other you’ve attended; here, people from all over the Southwest build contraptions—catapults, trebuchets, and slingshots—that send pumpkins across the sky. Live music, about 25 vendor booths, and typically beautiful weather make this a popular event. Proceeds go toward the Youth Garden Project. dingbat Grand County High School, 400 E. and Red Devil Dr. dingbat 435/259–2326 dingbat $10.

TOURS

Canyonlands by Night & Day. For more than 50 years, this outfitter was best known for its two-hour, after-dark boat ride on the Colorado River (March–October). While illuminating the canyon walls with 40,000 watts, the trip includes music and narration highlighting Moab’s history, Native American legends, and geologic formations along the river. You can also combine the boat trip with a Dutch-oven dinner. Daytime jet boat tours are offered, too, as well as tours by Hummer, airplane, and helicopter (land and air tours are offered year-round). dingbat 1861 Hwy. 191 dingbat 435/259–5261, 800/394–9978 dingbat www.canyonlandsbynight.com.

Moab

ESSENTIALS

The Moab Information Center is right in the heart of town and it’s the best place to find information on Arches and Canyonlands national parks. Hours vary, but in the peak tourist season it’s open until at least 7 pm, and for a few hours each morning and afternoon in winter.

Visitor Information Moab Information Center. dingbat 25 E. Center St. dingbat 435/259–8825 dingbat www.discovermoab.com/​visitorcenter.htm.

EXPLORING

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Colorado River Scenic Byway—Highway 128. One of the most scenic drives in the country, Highway 128 intersects U.S. 191 3 miles south of Arches. The 44-mile highway runs along the Colorado River with 2,000-foot red rock cliffs rising on both sides. This gorgeous river corridor is home to a winery, orchards, and a couple of luxury lodging options. It also offers a spectacular view of world-class climbing destination Fisher Towers before winding north to Interstate 70. The drive from Moab to I–70 takes at least an hour. dingbat Hwy. 128.

Colorado River Scenic Byway—Highway 279. If you’re interested in Native American rock art, Highway 279 northwest of Moab is a perfect place to spend a couple of hours immersed in the past.

To get there, go north on U.S. 191 for about 3½ miles and turn left onto Highway 279. If you start late in the afternoon, the cliffs will be glowing orange as the sun sets. Along the first part of the route you’ll see signs reading “Indian Writings.” Park only in designated areas to view the petroglyphs on the cliff side of the road. At the 18-mile marker you’ll see Jug Handle Arch. A few miles beyond this point the road turns to four-wheel-drive only, and takes you into the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands. Do not continue onto the Island in the Sky unless you are in a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle with a full gas tank and plenty of water. Allow about two hours round-trip for the Scenic Byway drive. dingbat TIP → If you happen to be in Moab during a heavy rainstorm, Highway 279 is also a good option for viewing the amazing waterfalls caused by rain pouring off the cliffs on both sides of the Colorado River. dingbat Hwy. 279.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Dead Horse Point State Park. One of the gems of Utah’s state park system, 34 miles southwest from Moab, this park overlooks a sweeping oxbow of the Colorado River some 2,000 feet below. Dead Horse Point itself is a small peninsula connected to the main mesa by a narrow neck of land. As the story goes, cowboys used to drive wild mustangs onto the point and pen them there with a brush fence. There’s a modern visitor center with a coffee shop (March–October) and museum. The park’s Intrepid Trail System has become popular with mountain bikers and hikers alike. Be sure to walk the 4-mile rim trail loop and drive to the park’s eponymous point if it’s a nice day. dingbat Hwy. 313, Canyonlands National Park dingbat 435/259–2614, 800/322–3770 camping reservations dingbat www.stateparks.utah.gov dingbat $15 per vehicle.

Museum of Moab. FAMILY Exhibits on the history, geology, and paleontology of the Moab area include settler-era antiques, and ancient and historic Native Americans are remembered in displays of baskets, pottery, sandals, and other artifacts. Displays also chronicle early Spanish expeditions into the area, regional dinosaur finds, and the history of uranium discovery. dingbat 118 E. Center St. dingbat 435/259–7985 dingbat www.moabmuseum.org dingbat $5.

Scott M. Matheson Wetlands Preserve. Owned and operated by the Nature Conservancy, this is the best place in the Moab area for bird-watching. The 894-acre oasis is home to more than 200 species, including such treasures as the pied-billed grebe, the cinnamon teal, and the northern flicker. It’s also a great place to spot beavers and muskrats playing in the water. Hear a big “Slap!” on the water? That’s a beaver warning you that you’re too close. Always remember to respect the wildlife preserved in these areas, and enjoy the nature you find here. An information kiosk greets visitors just inside the preserve and a boardwalk winds through the property to a viewing shelter. To reach the preserve, turn northwest off U.S. 191 at Kane Creek Boulevard and continue northwest approximately 2 miles. dingbat 934 W. Kane Creek Blvd. dingbat 435/259–4629 dingbat www.nature.org dingbat Free.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Moab’s towering cliffs and deep canyons can be intimidating, and some are unreachable without the help of a guide. Fortunately, guide services are abundant in Moab. Whether you are interested in a 4x4 expedition into the rugged backcountry, a river-rafting trip, a jet-boat tour on calm water, bicycle tours, rock-art tours, or a scenic flight, you can find the pro to help you on your way. It’s always best to make reservations. Book the Fiery Furnace tour in Arches National Park at least one month in advance.

SHUTTLES

If you need a ride to or from your trailhead or river trip put-in point, a couple of Moab companies provide the service (and also provide airport shuttle service by reservation), with vehicles large enough to handle most groups. Coyote’s website is worth checking out for trail and river conditions and other information. Inquiries for Roadrunner are handled by Dual Sport, under the same ownership.

FOUR-WHEELING

There are thousands of miles of four-wheel-drive roads in and around Moab suitable for all levels of drivers. Seasoned 4x4 drivers might tackle the daunting Moab Rim, Elephant Hill, or Poison Spider Mesa. Novices will be happier touring Long Canyon, Hurrah Pass. If you’re not afraid of precipitous cliff edges, the famous Shafer Trail may be a good option for you. Expect to pay around $75 for a half-day tour and $120 for a full day; multiday safaris usually start at around $600. Almost all of Moab’s river-running companies also offer four-wheeling excursions.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Coyote Land Tours. Imposing Mercedes Benz Unimog trucks (which dwarf Hummers) take you to parts of the backcountry where you could never wander on your own. Technical tours challenge drivers with imposing rock formations, washes, and assorted obstacles, and there are tamer sunset excursions and camp-style ride-and-dine trips. They stand by their money-back “great time” guarantee. dingbat Moab dingbat 435/260–6056 dingbat www.coyotelandtours.com dingbat From $59.

Dual Sport Utah. If you’re into dirt biking, this is the only outfitter in Moab specializing in street-legal, off-road dirt-bike tours and rentals. Follow the Klondike Bluffs trail to Arches, or negotiate the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands in a fraction of the time you would spend on a mountain bike. You can also rent jet skis here. dingbat 197 W. Center. St. dingbat 435/260–2724 dingbat www.dualsportutah.com dingbat From $225.

High Point Hummer & ATV. You can rent vehicles, including ATVs, UTVs, and Jeeps, or get a guided tour of the backcountry in open-air Hummer vehicles or ATVs, or dune buggy–like “side-by-sides” that seat up to six people. The enthusiastic owners love families and small, intimate groups, and offer hiking and canyoneering as well. dingbat 281 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–2972, 877/486–6833 dingbat www.highpointhummer.com dingbat Guided tours from $69.

HIKING

For a great view of the Moab Valley and surrounding red-rock country, hike up the steep Moab Rim Trail. For something a little less taxing, hike the shady, cool path of Grandstaff Canyon, which is off Route Highway 129. At the end of the trail you’ll find giant Morning Glory Arch towering over a serene pool created by a natural spring. If you want to take a stroll through the heart of Moab, hop on the Mill Creek Parkway, which winds along the creek from one side of town to the other. It’s paved and perfect for bicycles, strollers, or joggers. For a taste of slickrock hiking that feels like the backcountry but is easy to access, try the Corona Arch Trail off Highway 279. You’ll be rewarded with two large arches hidden from view of the highway. The Moab Information Center carries a free hiking trail guide.

LEAVE NO TRACE

While doing any activity out in the desert, make sure to tread lightly. The dry, dusty landscape might look unbreakable, but it actually houses a fragile ecosystem, one that can take years to recover from just a set of footprints in the wrong place. In other words, it’s best to stay on the trail or make sure you walk on rock or washes (dry stream beds).

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Mountain biking originated in Moab, and the region has earned the well-deserved reputation as the mountain-biking capital of the world. Riders of all ages and skill levels are drawn to the many rugged roads and trails found here. One of the most popular routes is the Slickrock Trail, a stunning area of steep Navajo Sandstone dunes a few miles east of Moab. dingbat TIP → Beginners should master the 2⅓-mile practice loop before attempting the longer, and very challenging, 10-mile loop. More moderate rides can be found on the Gemini Bridges or Monitor and Merrimac trails, both found off U.S. 191 north of Moab. Klondike Bluffs, north of Moab, is an excellent novice ride, as are sections of the newer trails in the Klonzo trail system. The Moab Information Center carries a free biking trail guide. Mountain-bike rentals range from $40 for a good bike to $75 for a top-of-the-line workhorse. If you want to go on a guided ride, expect to pay between $120 and $135 per person for a half-day, and $155 to $190 for a full day, including the cost of the bike rental. You can save money by joining a larger group to keep the per-person rates down; even a party of two will save drastically over a single rider. Several companies offer shuttles to and from the trailheads.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Poison Spider Bicycles. In a town of great bike shops, this fully loaded shop is considered one of the best. Poison Spider serves the thriving road-cycling community as well as mountain bikers. Rent, buy, or service your bike here. You can also arrange for shuttle and guide services and purchase merchandise. Want to ship your bike to Moab for your adventure? Poison Spider will store it until you arrive and the staff will reassemble it for you and make sure everything is in perfect working order. dingbat 497 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–7882, 800/635–1792 dingbat www.poiso​nspid​erbic​ycles.com.

Rim Tours. Reliable, friendly, and professional, Rim Tours has been taking guests on guided one-day or multiday mountain-bike tours, including Klondike Bluffs (which enters Arches) and the White Rim Trail (inside Canyonlands) since 1985. Road-bike tours as well as bike rentals are also available. Bike skills a little rusty? Rim Tours also offers mountain-bike instructional tours and skill clinics. dingbat 1233 S. U.S. 191 dingbat 435/259–5223, 800/626–7335 dingbat www.rimtours.com dingbat Day tours from $145; multiday from $825.

Western Spirit Cycling Adventures. Head here for fully supported, go-at-your-own-pace, multiday mountain-bike and road-bike tours throughout the western states, including trips to Canyonlands, Trail of the Ancients, and the 140-mile Kokopelli Trail, which runs from Grand Junction, Colorado, to Moab. Guides versed in the geologic wonders of the area cook up meals worthy of the scenery each night. Ask about family rides, and road bike trips, too. There’s also the option to combine a Green River kayak trip with the three-night White Rim Trail ride. dingbat 478 Mill Creek Dr. dingbat 435/259–8732, 800/845–2453 dingbat www.westernspirit.com dingbat From $950.

MULTISPORT

Outdoor lovers wear many hats in Moab: boaters, bikers, and even Jeep-drivers. Here are a few companies that cater to a range of adventure seekers.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Adrift Adventures. FAMILY This outfitter takes pride in well-trained guides who can take you via foot, raft, kayak, 4X4, jet boat, stand-up paddleboard, and more, all over the Moab area, including the Colorado and Green rivers. They also offer history, movie, and rock-art tours. They’ve been in business since 1977 and have a great reputation around town. dingbat 378 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–8594, 800/874–4483 dingbat www.adrift.net dingbat From $52.

Moab Adventure Center. At the prominent storefront on Main Street you can schedule most any type of local adventure experience you want, including rafting, 4X4 tours, scenic flights, hikes, balloon rides, and much, much more. You can also purchase clothing and outdoor gear for your visit. dingbat 225 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–7019, 866/904–1163 dingbat www.moabadventurecenter.com dingbat From $62.

NAVTEC. Doc Williams was the first doctor in Moab in 1896, and some of his descendants never left, sharing his love for the area through this rafting, canyoneering, and 4X4 company. Whether you want to explore by boat, boots, or wheels, you’ll find a multitude of one-day and multiday options here. dingbat 321 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–7983, 800/833–1278 dingbat www.navtec.com.

Oars. This well-regarded outfitter can take you for several days of rafting and/or hiking on the Colorado and Green rivers. Hiking/interpretive trips are available in Canyonlands and Arches national parks, and for those not into white water, they also offer calm-water trips. dingbat 2540 S. Hwy. 191 dingbat 435/259–5865, 800/342–5938 dingbat www.oarsutah.com dingbat From $119.

Tag-A-Long Expeditions. This outfitter has been taking people into the white water of Cataract Canyon and Canyonlands for more than 50 years, longer than any other outfitter in Moab. They also run 4X4 expeditions into the backcountry and calm-water excursions on the Colorado and Green rivers. Trips, for 3 to 11 people, run from a half-day to five days. dingbat 452 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–8946, 800/453–3292 dingbat www.tagalong.com dingbat From $55.

RIVER EXPEDITIONS

On the Colorado River northeast of Arches and very near Moab, you can take one of America’s most scenic—but not intimidating—river-raft rides. The river rolls by the red Fisher Towers as they rise into the sky in front of the La Sal Mountains. A day trip on this stretch of the river will take you about 15 miles. Outfitters offer full, half, or multiday adventures here. Upriver, in narrow, winding Westwater Canyon near the Utah–Colorado border, the Colorado River cuts through the oldest exposed geologic layer on Earth. Most outfitters offer this trip as a one-day getaway, but you may also take as long as three days to complete the journey. A permit is required from the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Moab to run Westwater Canyon.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Canyon Voyages Adventure Co. FAMILY This is an excellent choice for rafting or kayaking adventures on the Colorado or Green River. Don and Denise Oblak run a friendly, professional company with a retail store and rental shop that’s open year-round. Most of their customers take one-day trips, but they also offer multiday itineraries, guided tours, and rentals. It’s also the only company that operates a kayak school for those who want to learn how to run the rapids on their own. Ask about stand-up paddleboarding, biking, and horseback riding, too. dingbat 211 N. Main St. dingbat 435/363–3794, 866/484–4506 dingbat www.canyonvoyages.com dingbat From $58.

Holiday River Expeditions. Since 1966, this outfitter has offered one- to eight-day adventures on the San Juan, Green, and Colorado rivers, including inside Canyonlands National Park. They also offer multisport trips, women’s retreats, and bike adventures, including the White Rim Trail. dingbat 2075 E. Main St., Green River dingbat 435/564–3273, 800/624–6323 dingbat www.bikeraft.com dingbat From $190.

Sheri Griffith Expeditions. In addition to trips through the white water of Cataract, Westwater, and Desolation canyons, on the Colorado and Green rivers, this company also offers specialty expeditions for women, writers, and families. One of their more luxurious expeditions features dinners cooked by a professional chef and served at linen-covered tables. Cots and other sleeping amenities also make roughing it a little more comfortable. dingbat 2231 S. U.S. 191 dingbat 435/259–8229, 800/332–2439 dingbat www.griffithexp.com dingbat From $85.

ROCK CLIMBING

Rock climbing is an integral part of Moab culture. The area’s rock walls and towers bring climbers from around the world, and a surprising number end up sticking around. Moab offers some of the best climbing challenges in the country, and any enthusiast will find bliss here.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Desert Highlights. This guide company takes adventurous types on descents and ascents through canyons (with the help of ropes), including those found in the Fiery Furnace at Arches National Park. Full-day and multiday canyoneering treks are available to destinations both inside and outside the national parks. Desert Highlights does not offer guided rock climbing. dingbat 50 E. Center St. dingbat 435/259–4433, 800/747–1342 dingbat www.deserthighlights.com dingbat From $120.

Moab Cliffs & Canyons. In a town where everyone seems to offer rafting and 4X4 expeditions, Moab Cliffs & Canyons focuses exclusively on canyoneering, climbing, and rappelling—for novice and veteran adventurers. Prices vary according to how many people sign up. This is the outfitter that provided technical assistance to the crew on the movie 127 Hours. dingbat 253 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–3317, 877/641–5271 dingbat www.cliffsandcanyons.com dingbat From $72.

Pagan Mountaineering. Climbers in need of gear and advice on local terrain should speak with the knowledgeable staff here, who can help plot your adventure. dingbat 59 S. Main St., No. 2 dingbat 435/259–1117 dingbat paganclimber.com.

SKYDIVING

Because the area gets only a few days of rain, the skydiving season is long, lasting from March 1 to November 15.

OUTFITTERS AND EXPEDITIONS

Skydive Moab. Find the best view of Moab and the surrounding landscape with something you can check off your bucket list. You’re in good hands at Skydive Moab. All flights take off from Moab’s Canyonlands Field, 16 miles north of town. They also host the annual Mother of All Boogies Skydiving Festival each year in September. dingbat Canyonlands Field/Moab Airport, Hwy. 191 N dingbat 435/259–5867 dingbat www.skydivemoab.com dingbat From $199 for a tandem skydive.

WHERE TO EAT

From juicy steaks and fresh sushi to rich Mexican and savory Thai, there are enough menu options in Moab to keep you satiated.

Use the coordinates (dingbat A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat dingbat Desert Bistro. $$$$ MODERN AMERICAN Moab’s finest dining experience is found in a small adobe house just off Main Street. Whether you dine inside or on either of the peaceful patios, anticipate thoughtful flavor combinations in artful salads, locally sourced beef, and delicious vegetables. Known for: excellent service; wine selection; bison entrées. dingbat Average main: $32 dingbat 36 S. 100 W dingbat 435/259–0756 dingbat www.desertbistro.com dingbat Closed Dec.–Feb., Mon. in Sept. and Oct., and Mon. and Tues. in Nov. No lunch dingbat A2.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat dingbat Eklecticafe. $ ECLECTIC The funky font on the sign makes this place easy to miss but worth finding for one of the more creative, healthy menus in Moab. Breakfast and lunch items include a variety of burritos and wraps, scrambled tofu, salmon cakes, Indonesian satay kebabs, and many fresh, organic salads. Known for: rich coffee; creative menu; artistic setting. dingbat Average main: $9 dingbat 352 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–6896 dingbat No dinner dingbat B1.

dingbat Jeffrey’s Steakhouse. $$$$ STEAKHOUSE Melt-in-your-mouth tender wagyu beef is this restaurant’s specialty. Jeffrey’s offers plenty of salads and side dishes, but remember—this is a steak house, so there’s a separate charge for everything, and that can quickly make for a pricey meal. The menu also features lamb and pork chops, chicken and salmon, and a few other entrée options. Known for: wagyu beef; hearty menu; historic setting. dingbat Average main: $32 dingbat 218 N. 100 W dingbat 435/259–3588 dingbat www.jeffreyssteakhouse.com dingbat No lunch dingbat A1.

dingbat Miguel’s Baja Grill. $$ MEXICAN This isn’t the cheapest Mexican menu around, but it’s definitely the best. Not your standard south-of-the-border fare, the food here comes from the culinary spirit of Baja, California, which means some excellent fish dishes like ceviche, a tangy blend of raw fish, onions, tomatoes, and spices. Known for: house-made margaritas; convenient location on Main Street; fresh ingredients. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 51 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–6546 dingbat www.miguelsbajagrill.com dingbat Closed Dec.–Feb. No lunch dingbat A1.

dingbat Moab Brewery. $ AMERICAN FAMILY Southern Utah’s award-winning brewery is known for its Scorpion Pale Ale, Dead Horse Amber Ale, and an assortment of other brews from light to dark. Their on-site restaurant is spacious and comfortable and decorated with kayaks, bikes, and other adventure paraphernalia. Known for: spacious setting; made gelato; outdoorsy clientele. dingbat Average main: $12 dingbat 686 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–6333 dingbat www.themoabbrewery.com dingbat B3.

dingbat Moab Diner. $ AMERICAN FAMILY For breakfast, lunch, and dinner, this is the place where old-time Moabites go. Try the dishes smothered in green chili (burritos, burgers, omelets, and more), which they claim is Utah’s best. Known for: all-day breakfast; local’s favorite; green chili. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 189 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–4006 dingbat www.moabdiner.com dingbat Closed Sun. dingbat B2.

dingbat Pasta Jay’s. $$ ITALIAN FAMILY Mountain bikers, families, and couples pack this downtown restaurant’s patio from noon until well into the evening. This bustling spot’s friendly servers rapidly dish up a dozen kinds of pasta in an equal number of preparations, perfect for hungry adventurers. Known for: American Italian vibe; extensive menu; patio dining. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 4 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–2900 dingbat www.pastajays.com dingbat A1.

dingbat Peace Tree Juice Café. $$ CAFÉ Start with your choice of a dozen smoothies, then select from a menu that ranges from wraps to sandwiches to full entrées prepared primarily from local, natural, and organic ingredients for a healthy, filling meal. Try the quinoa-stuffed red pepper or sweet-and-salty beet salad for interesting new flavor combinations. Known for: healthy bites; bright setting; outdoor dining. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 20 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–0101 dingbat www.peacetreejuicecafe.com dingbat A2.

dingbat River Grill Restaurant. $$$ AMERICAN The most scenic dining experience in the area is 17 miles upstream from Moab at the Sorrel River Ranch, beside the Colorado River, with views of La Sal Mountains, and the red-rock spires and towers surrounding the ranch. This fine-dining restaurant follows a farm-to-table ethic and its seasonal menu changes regularly; look for local options like buffalo, pheasant, lamb, and trout as well as vegetarian entrées. Known for: innovative dining; stunning setting; wine list. dingbat Average main: $28 dingbat Sorrel River Ranch, Hwy. 128, mile marker 17.5 dingbat 435/259–4642 dingbat www.sorrelriver.com dingbat Lunch for takeout only, Nov.–Mar. dingbat B1.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat dingbat Sabaku Sushi. $$ MODERN ASIAN Sushi in the desert may seem surprising, but the chefs here know what they’re doing. The fish is flown in fresh several times a week, the veggies are crisp, and the sauces are spicy—locals particularly love the spicy tuna roll with cucumber and avocado served with sriracha and eel sauce. Known for: accommodating menu; friendly service; sake list. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 90 E. Center St. dingbat 435/259–4455 dingbat www.sabakusushi.com dingbat Closed Mon. No lunch dingbat B1.

dingbat Singha. $$ THAI Authentic Thai food may not be what you expect to find in the middle of the desert, and that’s exactly why this cozy, central place so highly recommended by locals. Some of the tastiest dishes here are the noodle options, such as the tangy pad Thai or the spicy, pan-fried drunken noodles. Known for: affordability; friendly service; takeout menu. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 92 E. Center St. dingbat 435/259–0039 dingbat Closed Sun. dingbat B1.

dingbat Sweet Cravings Bakery + Bistro. $ BAKERY FAMILY Cinda Culton has created a sensation in Moab with some of the largest and most delicious cookies and cinnamon rolls you’ve ever seen. The secret here, though, is an amazing roster of breakfast and lunch panini, wraps, and sandwiches, and daily comfort foods like potpies and soups. Known for: cinnamon rolls; many gluten-free options; local produce. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 397 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–8983 dingbat www.cravemoab.com dingbat No dinner dingbat A1.

dingbat Zax. $$ AMERICAN FAMILY Wood-fired pizza ovens are the focal point of this downtown eatery and sports bar, where baseball bats double as door handles. For $15 you can try the pizza-salad-soup buffet (a popular choice, so the pies are constantly coming out of the oven). Known for: take-n-bake pizza; sports fans; broad menu. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 96 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–6555 dingbat www.zaxmoab.com dingbat A2.

WHERE TO STAY

Use the coordinates (dingbat A1) at the end of each listing to locate a site on the corresponding map.

dingbat Adobe Abode. $$$ B&B/INN A lovely B&B near the nature preserve, this single-story inn offers solitude. Pros: beautifully decorated common area; continental breakfast included; peace and quiet. Cons: too far to walk to town (but close enough to bike); no children under 16 permitted. dingbat Rooms from: $179 dingbat 778 W. Kane Creek Blvd. dingbat 435/259–7716 dingbat www.adobeabodemoab.com dingbat 6 rooms dingbat Breakfast dingbat A2.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat dingbat Best Western Canyonlands Inn. $$$$ HOTEL FAMILY The confluence of Main and Center streets is the epicenter of Moab, and this comfortable, contemporary, impeccably clean hotel anchors the intersection, providing a perfect base for families. Pros: downtown location; updated, sparkling rooms; breakfast alfresco on outdoor patio. Cons: pricey due to location; better for families than solo travelers. dingbat Rooms from: $287 dingbat 16 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–2300, 800/649–5191 dingbat www.canyonlandsinn.com dingbat 80 rooms dingbat Breakfast dingbat A1.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Cali Cochitta Bed & Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN One of the first homes built in Moab, this 19th-century Victorian in the heart of town, two blocks from Main Street shops and restaurants, has been restored to its classic style by owners David and Kim Boger. Pros: gracious owners pay attention to the details; easy walk to the hub of town; breakfast in the garden from accomplished chef. Cons: historic construction, some quarters feel small. dingbat Rooms from: $175 dingbat 110 S. 200 E dingbat 435/259–4961 dingbat www.moabdreaminn.com dingbat 6 rooms dingbat Breakfast dingbat B2.

FRIENDLY FOLK DANCING

Community Contra Dance. During the Community Contra Dance locals from every clique come together for a night of folk dancing with live tunes provided by the Moab Community Dance Band. Even if you’ve never tried this all-American dance form, it’s less intimidating than it looks; an emcee announces the moves, and fellow participants will be happy to show you the ropes. You don’t need rhythm or a partner, just a $5 donation, which goes to a different charity each month. The dances spring into action the third Saturday of most months at the Moab Arts and Recreation Center. dingbat 111 E. 100 N dingbat 435/259–6272.

dingbat Fairfield Inn and Suites. $$$$ HOTEL Views of the Colorado River are sure to wow guests at this hotel. Pros: warm, inviting, and very clean; views of river and red rocks; buffet, continental, or hot breakfast included. Cons: 4 miles from downtown Moab; pricey. dingbat Rooms from: $224 dingbat 1863 N. Hwy. 191 dingbat 435/259–5350, 888/236–2427 dingbat www.marriott.com dingbat 89 rooms dingbat Breakfast dingbat B1.

dingbat Gonzo Inn. $$$ HOTEL This eclectic inn stands out for its design, color, art, and varnished adobe construction. Pros: unique, spotless, and hip; steps to Main Street; pool and hot tub. Cons: interior hallways can be dark; no elevator; not all rooms have a good view. dingbat Rooms from: $199 dingbat 100 W. 200 S dingbat 435/259–2515, 800/791–4044 dingbat www.gonzoinn.com dingbat 43 rooms dingbat Breakfast dingbat A2.

dingbat Moab Springs Ranch. $$$$ RENTAL First developed by William Granstaff in the late 19th century, this 18-acre property about 3 miles from Arches and 2 miles from downtown Moab features comfortable hotel rooms and condos set by a meandering spring and decades-old sycamores, mulberries, and cottonwoods. Pros: scenic setting; along bike path to town. Cons: remote location; some Highway 191 traffic noise. dingbat Rooms from: $210 dingbat 1266 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–7891 dingbat www.moabspringsranch.com dingbat 19 condos, from studios to larger rentals dingbat No meals dingbat B1.

dingbat Red Cliffs Adventure Lodge. $$$$ RESORT Discovered in the late 1940s by director John Ford, this former ranch was the setting for several 1950s Westerns. Pros: great riverfront views; private cabins are woodsy but modern; the movie museum chronicles local filmmaking history. Cons: far from town; spotty cell service. dingbat Rooms from: $239 dingbat Hwy. 128, mile marker 14 dingbat 435/259–2002, 866/812–2002 dingbat www.redcliffslodge.com dingbat 79 rooms, 30 cabins, 1 suite dingbat No meals dingbat B1.

dingbat Moab Red Stone Inn. $$ HOTEL One of the best bargains in town, this timber-frame motel offers small, clean rooms at the south end of the Moab strip near restaurants and shops. Pros: walking distance to Moab restaurants and shops; the price is right. Cons: pool is at sister property across busy Main Street; no frills. dingbat Rooms from: $130 dingbat 535 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–3500, 800/772–1972 dingbat www.moabredstone.com dingbat 52 rooms dingbat No meals dingbat A3.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat Sorrel River Ranch. $$$$ RESORT This lavish ranch resort is the biggest splurge around—and it’s worth absolutely every penny. Pros: the most luxurious hotel in the area; very attentive staff; guided hikes and yoga at additional cost. Cons: 30 minutes from Moab; resort fee of 9% is added to your bill. dingbat Rooms from: $479 dingbat Hwy. 128, mile marker 17 dingbat 435/259–4642, 877/359–2715 dingbat www.sorrelriver.com dingbat 39 rooms, 16 suites dingbat No meals dingbat B1.

NIGHTLIFE AND PERFORMING ARTS

Moab Happenings is a great resource for visitors to the area. It includes a calendar of events and options for activities, shopping, restaurants, and other necessities for travelers.

NIGHTLIFE

Moab’s nightlife can be pretty quiet, especially in winter. In high season, live bands perform every weekend.

Club Rio. At this local hangout and sports bar, decent bar food and cold beer make a perfect pairing for watching a weekend game on TV. Live music, DJs, karaoke, comedy, and lots of local flair make it worth a visit, game-time or not. There’s a cover charge for some events, but in most cases entrance is free. dingbat 2 S. 100 W dingbat 435/259–2654 dingbat riomoab.com.

World Famous Woody’s Tavern. An old-school style tavern that’s a favorite hangout for locals, this Main Street standby offers beer, bands, and a little bit of ruckus. The front porch still looks like a perfect place to ride up and secure a horse, and there is a great patio. dingbat 221 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–3550 dingbat www.world​famou​swood​ystav​ern.com.

PERFORMING ARTS

Moab Arts and Recreation Center. Offering a slice of Moab’s arts scene, from “Quick Draw Sales” where artists have three hours to create pieces during the annual Plein Air Festival, to dance, crafts, and fitness classes, this has been the spirited hub of arts activities in Moab since 1997. dingbat 111 E. 100 N dingbat 435/259–6272 dingbat www.moabrecreation.com.

SHOPPING

Shopping opportunities are plentiful in Moab, with art galleries, jewelry stores, and shops carrying T-shirts and souvenirs throughout Main Street.

ART GALLERIES

Lema’s Kokopelli Gallery. The Lema family has built a reputation for fair prices on a large selection of Native American and Southwest-themed jewelry, art, pottery, rugs, and more. Everything sold here is authentic. dingbat 70 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–5055 dingbat www.kokopellioutlet.com.

Moab Art Walk. Moab galleries and shops celebrate the perfect weather of spring and fall with a series of exhibits. Art Walks are held the second Saturday of the month from March through June and September through November. Stroll the streets (5–9 pm) to see and purchase original works by Moab and regional artists. dingbat Moab dingbat 435/259–6272 dingbat www.moabartwalk.com.

BOOKS

Back of Beyond Books. FAMILY A Main Street treasure, this comprehensive bookstore features the American West, environmental studies, Native American cultures, water issues, and Western history, as well as rare antiquarian books on the Southwest. There’s also a nice nook for kids. dingbat 83 N. Main St. dingbat 435/259–5154, 800/700–2859 dingbat www.backofbeyondbooks.com dingbat Daily 9–6 (to 9 pm Mar.–Nov.).

SUPPLIES

Dave’s Corner Market. You can get most anything you may need here for your travels, including some of the best cappuccino and Colombian coffee in town. The store is also the heartbeat of the local community, where everyone gossips, discusses local politics, and swaps info on the best hiking and adventure spots. dingbat 401 Mill Creek Dr. dingbat 435/259–6999.

GearHeads. If you forget anything for your camping, climbing, hiking, or other outdoor adventure, you can get a replacement here. GearHeads is packed with essentials, and fun extras like booties and packs for your dog, water filtration straws, and cool souvenirs. The store’s owners invented a high-end LED flashlight that has become very popular with the U.S. military, available at the store. dingbat 471 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–4327 dingbat www.moabgear.com.

Walker Drug Co. A Moab landmark since the 1950s, this is as close as you’ll get to a department store for more than 100 miles. Besides pharmacy and drugstore items, you can buy all the essentials, including camping supplies, swimsuits, hats, sunglasses, and souvenirs. The pharmacy section is closed on weekends. dingbat 290 S. Main St. dingbat 435/259–5959.

SOUTHEASTERN UTAH

Utah scenery is dramatic, from the wide span of water at Lake Powell to the huge, sandstone formations (called “mittens”) in Monument Valley. Around Green River you’ll encounter a world of agriculture and boating, with melon stands popping up in the late summer and fall. Farther south you’ll see the influence of Native American culture including ancient rock-art and dwellings. Along the way to Mexican Hat, you’ll enjoy Navajo tacos and handmade jewelry.

GREEN RIVER

70 miles west of the Colorado state line.

Named for the river that runs through town, Green River, Utah, and its namesake are historically important. Early Native Americans used the river for centuries; the Old Spanish Trail crossed it, and the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad bridged it in 1883. Some say the “green” refers to the color of the water; others claim it’s named for the plants along the riverbank. And yet another story gives the credit to a mysterious trapper named Green. Whatever the etymology, Green River remains a sleepy little town, and a nice break from some of the more “hip” tourist towns in southern Utah.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Reaching Green River is as easy as finding I–70. The town is 180 miles southeast of Salt Lake City, 100 miles west of Grand Junction, Colorado, and 50 miles northwest of Moab.

ESSENTIALS

Green River Information Center. dingbat John Wesley Powell River History Museum, 1765 E. Main St. dingbat 435/564–3427 dingbat desti​natio​ngree​nriver.com.

EXPLORING

Green River State Park. A shady respite on the banks of the Green River, this park is best known for its golf course. It’s also the starting point for boaters drifting along the river through Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons. Fishing and bird-watching are favorite pastimes here. dingbat 450 S. Green River Rd. dingbat 435/564–3633, 800/322–3770 for campground reservations dingbat www.stateparks.utah.gov dingbat $5 per vehicle.

Fodor’sChoicedingbat John Wesley Powell River History Museum. FAMILY Learn what it was like to travel down the Green and Colorado rivers in the 1800s in wooden boats. A series of displays tracks the Powell Party’s arduous, dangerous 1869 journey, and visitors can watch the award-winning film Journey Into the Unknown for a cinematic taste of the white-water adventure. The center also houses the River Runner’s Hall of Fame, a tribute to those who have followed in Powell’s wake. River-themed art occupies a gallery and there’s a dinosaur exhibit on the lower level. dingbat 1765 E. Main St. dingbat 435/564–3427 dingbat www.jwprhm.com dingbat $6.

Sego Canyon Rock Art Panels. Sego is one of the most dramatic and mystifying rock-art sites in the entire state. Large, ghostlike rock-art figures painted and etched by Native Americans approximately 4,000 years ago cover these canyon walls. There’s also art left by the Ute from the 19th-century. Distinctive for their large anthropomorphic figures, and for horses, buffalo, and shields painted with red-and-white pigment, these rare drawings are a must-see. dingbat I–70, Exit 187, Thompson Springs dingbat 25 miles east of Green River on I–70, at Exit 187 go north onto Hwy. 94 through Thompson Springs dingbat 435/259–2100 Bureau of Land Management Office in Moab dingbat www.blm.gov.

Southeastern Utah
OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Goblin Valley State Park. Strange-looking “hoodoos” rise up from the desert landscape 12 miles north of Hanksville, making Goblin Valley home to hundreds of strange goblin-like rock formations with a dramatic orange hue. Short, easy trails wind through the goblins making it a fun walk for kids and adults. dingbat Hwy. 24 dingbat 435/275–4584 dingbat stateparks.utah.gov dingbat $13 per vehicle.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

RIVER FLOAT TRIPS

Bearing little resemblance to its name, Desolation Canyon acquaints those who venture down the Green River with some of the last true American wilderness: a lush, verdant canyon, where the rapids promise more laughter than fear. It’s a favorite destination of canoe paddlers, kayakers, and novice rafters. May through September, raft trips can be arranged by outfitters in Green River or Moab. South of town the river drifts at a lazier pace through Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons, and the stretch south to Mineral Bottom in Canyonlands is best suited to canoes and motor boats.

For river-trip outfitters, see the Moab Sports and the Outdoors section.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

dingbat La Veracruzana. $$ MEXICAN The Polito family continues the long tradition of good food in this older, unassuming building on Green River’s main drag. Couples and families should try the molcajete, a two-person entrée with meat, chicken, shrimp, and nopal (cactus) served on a volcanic-rock stone mortar. Known for: street tacos; molcajete; chile verde. dingbat Average main: $15 dingbat 125 W. Main St. dingbat 435/564–3257.

dingbat Ray’s Tavern. $ AMERICAN Ray’s is something of a Western legend and a favorite hangout for river runners. The bar that runs the length of the restaurant reminds you this is still a tavern and a serious watering hole—but all the photos and rafting memorabilia make it comfortable for families as well. Known for: legendary burgers; mixed clientele; homemade pie. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 25 S. Broadway dingbat 435/564–3511 dingbat www.raystavern.com.

dingbat Tamarisk Restaurant. $ AMERICAN Views of the Green River make this no-frills restaurant a nice stop after a long drive. Breakfasts and lunches are traditional American diner fare. Known for: the view; fish tacos; buffalo burger. dingbat Average main: $10 dingbat 1710 E. Main St. dingbat www.tamariskrestaurant.com.

dingbat Green River Comfort Inn. $$ HOTEL This clean, updated motel is convenient if you’re staying only one night, as many do on family rafting outings (Holiday River Expeditions is behind the hotel). Pros: clean and comfortable; close to town’s premier rafting outfitter; kids under 18 stay for free. Cons: remote, barren town; no elevator to second floor; Green River’s two best restaurants are not in walking distance. dingbat Rooms from: $139 dingbat 1975 E. Main St. dingbat 435/564–3300 dingbat www.comfo​rtinn​green​river.com dingbat 57 rooms dingbat Breakfast.

dingbat River Terrace Hotel. $$ HOTEL The peaceful setting, on the bank of the Green River, is conducive to a good night’s rest, and the hotel is conveniently less than 2 miles off I–70. Pros: shady riverside location (be sure to request a river-view room); discounts often available; on-site restaurant; convenient for the passing traveler. Cons: remote, barren town; Green River’s best two restaurants are not in walking distance. dingbat Rooms from: $141 dingbat 1740 E. Main St. dingbat 435/564–3401, 877/564–3401 dingbat www.river-terrace.com dingbat 50 rooms dingbat Breakfast.

NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT

The scenery and rock formations found in this national monument must be seen to be believed.

Natural Bridges National Monument. Stunning natural bridges, ancient Native American ruins, and magnificent scenery throughout make Natural Bridges National Monument a must-see if you have time to make the trip. Sipapu is one of the largest natural bridges in the world, spanning 225 feet and standing more than 140 feet tall. You can take in the Sipapu, Owachomo, and Kachina bridges via an 8.6-mile round-trip hike that meanders around and under them. A 13-site primitive campground is an optimal spot for stargazing. The national monument is about 120 miles southwest of the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park and approximately 45 miles from Blanding. dingbat Hwy. 275, off Hwy. 95 dingbat 435/692–1234 dingbat www.nps.gov/​nabr dingbat $10 per vehicle, $5 for those entering park on foot, bicycle, or motorcycle.

LAKE POWELL

The placid waters of Lake Powell allow you to depart the landed lifestyle and float away on your own houseboat. With 96 major side canyons spread across 186 miles, you can spend months exploring more than 2,000 miles of shoreline. Every water sport imaginable awaits, from waterskiing to fishing. Small communities around marinas in Page (Arizona), Bullfrog, Wahweap, Hite, and Hall’s Crossing have hotels, restaurants, and shops where you can restock vital supplies.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

AIR TRAVELGetting here can be your biggest challenge, so it’s best to plan ahead whenever possible. Great Lakes Airlines serves Page, Arizona, from Phoenix. To get to Bullfrog, Utah, it’s a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Canyonlands Airport in Moab (served by Delta) and five hours from Walker Field Airport in Grand Junction, Colorado.

CAR TRAVEL Many people visit Lake Powell as part of grand drives across the southwestern United States. Bullfrog, Utah, is about 300 miles from Salt Lake City via I–15 to I–70 to U.S. 95 south. Take I–70 from Colorado and the east. Take U.S. 191 from either Wyoming or Arizona. Most roads are well-maintained two-lane highways, though snow can be a factor in winter. Be sure your car is in good working order, as there are long stretches of empty road, and top off the gas tank whenever possible.

FERRY TRAVEL Hall’s Crossing Marina is the eastern terminus of the ferry. You and your vehicle can float across a 3-mile stretch of the lake to the Bullfrog Basin Marina in 25 minutes; from there it is an hour’s drive north to rejoin Highway 95. Ferries run several times each day (less frequently during the off-season). Call ahead for departures information.

Lake Powell Ferry. dingbat Hall’s Crossing Marina, Hwy. 276 dingbat 435/684–3088 dingbat www.lakepowell.com dingbat $25 per car.

Information Utah State Road Conditions. dingbat 511 toll-free within Utah, 866/511–8824 toll-free outside Utah dingbat www.udot.utah.gov.

EXPLORING

Lake Powell. With a shoreline longer than America’s Pacific coast, Lake Powell is the heart of the huge 1,255,400-acre Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Created by the Glen Canyon Dam—a 710-foot wall of concrete in the Colorado River—Lake Powell took 17 years to fill. The second-largest man-made lake in the nation, it extends through terrain so rugged that it was the last major area of the country to be mapped. Red cliffs ring the lake and twist off into 96 major canyons and countless inlets with huge, red-sandstone buttes randomly jutting from the sapphire waters.

The most popular thing to do at Lake Powell is to rent a houseboat and chugg leisurely across the lake, exploring coves and inlets at leisure. You’ll have plenty of company, though, since more than 2 million people visit the lake each year. Fast motorboats, Jet Skis, and sailboats all share the lake. Unless you love crowds and parties, it’s best to avoid visiting during Memorial Day or Labor Day weekends. It’s also important to check with the National Park Service for current water levels, closures, and other weather-related conditions.

Guided day-tours are available for those who don’t want to rent a boat of their own. A popular full-day or half-day excursion sets out from the Bullfrog and Hall’s Crossing marinas to Rainbow Bridge National Monument. This is the largest natural bridge in the world, and its 290-foot-high, 275-foot-wide span is a breathtaking sight. The main National Park Service visitor center is at Bullfrog Marina; a gas station, campground, general store, and boat docks are there for supplies, snacks, and chit-chat with locals. dingbat Bullfrog visitor center, Hwy. 276 dingbat 435/684–7420 dingbat www.nps.gov/​glca dingbat $15 per vehicle.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas. Boating and fishing are the major sports at Lake Powell. Conveniently, all powerboat rentals and tours are conducted by this company. Daylong tours (departing from Wahweap Marina near Page, Arizona) go to Rainbow Bridge or Antelope Canyon. There’s also a tour that goes into some of the more interesting canyons and a dinner cruise. The company rents houseboats for anyone looking to make their stay here last. dingbat Bullfrog Marina, Rte. 276 dingbat 800/528–6154 dingbat www.lakepowell.com dingbat Tours $45–$120.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’sChoicedingbat dingbat Amangiri. $$$$ RESORT One of just two U.S. properties operated by the famously luxurious Aman resort company, this ultraplush and ultraexpensive 34-suite compound lies just a few miles north of Lake Powell on a 600-acre plot of rugged high desert, soaring red-rock cliffs, and jagged mesas. Pros: stunning accommodations inside and out; exceedingly gracious and professional staff; world-class restaurant and spa. Cons: many times more expensive than most accommodations in the area; extremely remote. dingbat Rooms from: $1900 dingbat 1 Kayenta Rd., Canyon Point dingbat 15 miles northwest of Page, off U.S. 89 dingbat 435/675–3999, 877/695–3999 dingbat www.amanresorts.com dingbat 34 suites dingbat All meals.

dingbat Defiance House Lodge. $$$ HOTEL At the Bullfrog Marina, this cliff-top lodge has comfortable and clean rooms anyone can appreciate, but the real draw is the view. Pros: beautiful lakefront setting; adjacent restaurant. Cons: very remote; no general store for miles. dingbat Rooms from: $160 dingbat 435/684–2233, 888/896–3829 dingbat www.lakepowell.com dingbat 48 rooms dingbat No meals.

dingbat Dreamkatchers’ B&B. $$$ B&B/INN This sleek, contemporary Southwestern-style home sits on a bluff just a few miles northwest of Lake Powell and 15 miles from Page. Pros: peaceful and secluded location perfect for stargazing; delicious breakfasts; laid-back, friendly hosts. Cons: often booked months in advance; two-night minimum stay. dingbat Rooms from: $175 dingbat 1055 S. American Way, Big Water dingbat 435/675–5828 dingbat www.dream​katch​ersla​kepowell.com dingbat Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Mar. dingbat 3 rooms dingbat Breakfast.