September 22, Sunday

It seems my little alarm clock buzzes five minutes after I fall asleep. It’s still dark as I head out, crossing the river and getting back on the open road. Less than an hour later there are glimmers of dawn in the sky to my left. The mountain roads are curving and from time to time there are slow-moving trucks traveling together in convoys. I stop for lunch at a small restaurant just outside Belo Horizonte that offers hearty food typical of the region. The city itself is in a valley surrounded by mountains, and I wish I were a tourist here to enjoy the view, but it’s still some distance to where I will spend the night.

A couple of hours later I arrive at Barbacena, a mountain town with steep cobbled roads nestled in greenery. A beautiful church with two towers dominates the main square, and I find an inn on a quiet side street. The cool humidity hits me as I step out of the car. I’m pleased to find that this small hotel is also very clean and my room has its own bath. The walls are brick and the furniture chunky dark wood, with simple white coverlets on the two twin beds. I’m so exhausted I eat some bread and cheese left over from my breakfast package, take a shower and fall asleep. It’s only 300 kilometers to Rio from here, so I will sleep in tomorrow and have breakfast before I set out on the highway.