1982

March 31, Wednesday

The debut of Jaxi is finally here, and I’m nervous as a cat. We’re fully booked and fully staffed. Michael and I are doing one last walk-through from the point of view of the customer. Freshly showered and crisply attired, we descend the elevator and stand in front of Jaxi. I take a breath and open the front door. To my right is the host stand, with its display of fresh vegetables just like Nora did at Chez Alice, and an arrangement of bird-of-paradise flowers. To my left, a life-sized paired of yoked oxen, painted electric blue. And in the center, Maya’s gorgeous carved doors with green and aqua phases of the moon entangled in lush vines.

Anderson opens the doors and the dining room is before me, the bar to my left. The tables are simple wood covered with crisp white tablecloths, perfectly set with dishes, cutlery and sparkling goblets. The chairs are comfortable rattan club chairs because I want people to enjoy the meal and not feel rushed. Wicker pendant lights hang above each table. Along both walls are Maya’s brightly painted carved wood pieces. It looks perfect and I’m happy.

Now to the kitchen, and everything is ready to go. We’re offering a varied menu of shrimp risotto, grouper cheek moqueca, carne de sol with caramelized onions, and a braise of cupim, the hump of the zebu cow, finished in the wood-fired oven.

Vegetables include colorful beet carpaccio, cassava root done various ways, and tostones, Puerto Rican plantain fritters. Winter squash with okra, and tiny emerald eggplants called jiló.

For dessert, a fig sorbet, persimmon mousse, orange carrot cake, good old simple chocolate pavê, and of course chocolate truffles, called brigadeiros.

After some last-minute shuffling in the kitchen, Anderson puts his head in to let me know it’s time for lift-off. I nod to him and take a deep breath. “Okay, team, let’s get this done!” It’s frantic and crazy for two hours but things run as smoothly as I could have hoped for on opening night.

Just after nine o’clock Michael nods toward the dining room. “Go take a victory lap and greet your guests. The VIPs had reservations for eight o’clock so they should be enjoying a coffee.”

I enter the space and recognize Orlando and Nelson toward the front, and Senator Célia at a nearby table. Sónia and Chico are here from Brasília, my brother Daniel and Rita from Picuí. I don’t recognize most of the faces but Anderson tells me they’re local politicians and business people. When Orlando sees me he and Nelson stand up and applaud, and in a slow wave the rest of the people in the room join them. Anderson brings me an armload of floral bouquets.

The room goes quiet and all eyes are on me. I take a deep breath and manage not to cry. “Thank you so much for making Jaxi’s first night a success. I’m grateful to everyone who made it all possible: my mentor Chef Orlando, Senator Célia, manager Anderson Moreira, the whole team, and especially Michael Parker.”

Michael is standing by the kitchen doors and bows his head to me. I circulate among the tables and have a brief conversation with so many people that my head is spinning. It’s a wonderful feeling and I’m exhausted. After hugs with family and promises to spend time together soon, the restaurant empties and we begin clean-up and side work for tomorrow.

Anderson is grinning ear to ear, though he looks tired. “Parabéns, Dona Eva. Congratulations.”

I give him a hug. “Thank you, Seu Anderson. For everything.”

Michael is smiling. “So, two seatings tonight, and I think we’re ready for three tomorrow. There were a few glitches in the kitchen but I think we covered our tails okay.”

Anderson lowers his voice conspiratorially. “There were two restaurant reporters here tonight. They think I don’t know who they are, but I watched them out of the corner of my eye. They were loving everything.”

Michael pops a champagne cork and the whole crew is served a coupe of bubbly. I raise my glass in tribute. “To every single one of you, the best team Jaxi could dream of. Thank you from the bottom of my heart. And get some sleep tonight, because tomorrow will be another busy day.” I glow with happiness as we toast. Jaxi is off to a good start.