Updated by Jennifer Rigby

There’s an old saying in the Czech Republic which goes, “Co Čech, to muzikant” (Every Czech is a musician). That might be stretching it a bit, but as visitors to Prague quickly realize, culture and performing arts are right at the heart of this beautiful city and its residents.

Music constantly drifts across the cobbled streets in Old Town; theater shows pop up in parks in the balmy summer months; and the calendar is chockablock with world-beating film festivals. And the best part? The affordable ticket prices. It’s almost criminal to come to this city and not take in a performance, from opera to ballet, when they are so accessible.

Prague’s musical history is a rich and varied one, from hometown composers like Antonín Dvořák or Bedřich Smetana to expats like Mozart, whose Don Giovanni made its debut here in 1787 and is still performed regularly. You can also catch the work of more modern Czech composers like Bohuslav Martinů, or even Vladimir Franz, the head-to-toe tattooed composer who gave more seasoned politicians a run for their money in recent presidential elections.

There’s something particularly lovely about the regular classical music performances that take place in ancient churches dotted around the city too, but do follow the recommendations to ensure you’re getting the best of the bunch.

And it’s not all classical. The avant-garde is alive and kicking in the Czech capital, from its youthful theater troupes, some of which perform in English, to a recent crop of thoughtful filmmakers. Interesting modern dance performances also sit alongside more traditional forms. Both the National Theater and State Opera have their own ballet companies staging a mix of classic and contemporary pieces.

Even if you aren’t normally a culture vulture, consider taking in a performance while you are in town. The shows are world-class and many of the concert halls are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Note: big theaters and concert halls go dark in July and August; luckily there are festivals aplenty to keep the “magic” of art alive in Prague year-round.

PLANNER

WHERE TO GET TICKETS

Booking online before you arrive will make everything cheaper. Try the venues themselves or the ticket agencies below. Alternatively, the concierge at your hotel may be able to reserve tickets for you. You can also go directly to the theater box office a few days in advance or immediately before a performance. If you are interested in seeing a specific festival, like Prague Spring, definitely purchase tickets in advance directly from the organizer or one of these listed agencies.

Bohemia Ticket International. The oldest ticket agency in Prague specializes in classical, jazz, opera, and ballet. Na Příkopě 16, Nové Mesto 224–215–031 www.bohemiaticket.cz .

Sazka Ticket. This is the exclusive seller of tickets to events at O2 Arena, which hosts big concerts and sports events. You can buy tickets online or at newsagents and tobacco shops throughout town. The O2 Arena box office is usually only open on the day of the event, so purchasing your tickets there is not recommended. Politických vězňů 15, Nové Mesto 224–091–435 www.sazkaticket.cz .

Ticketportal. Tickets for big gigs, venues, festivals, and theaters are available through this agency, which shares its head office location with Sazka. You can purchase tickets online or at various outlets including hotels, Metro stations, tourist offices, and the venues themselves, such as Divadlo Hybernia. On rare occasions, Ticketportal has the exclusive rights to a show. Politických věznů 15, Nové Mesto 221–419–420 for Divadlo Hybernia branch , 224–224–461 for Můstek Metro station branch www.ticketportal.cz .

Ticketpro. This is the main outlet for tickets to all shows and clubs, especially stadium concerts, with several branches across the city (and country). There’s pop, rock, and theater options on the website, as well as a special kid’s events section. Ticketpro also has an easy search engine that allows you to search what’s going on by date. Václavské nám. 38, Nové Mesto 234–704–204 www.ticketpro.cz .

Ticketstream. This big ticket agency offers tickets for a mixture of events, and has lots of locations across the city center, including some shared branches with Bohemia Ticket. Na Příkopě 16, Nové Mesto 224–263–049 www.ticketstream.cz .

WHAT TO WEAR

When getting dressed for a night of culture, take your cue from the city locals. You’ll note that it is still common for people to dress up for performances, especially at the larger, traditional venues. Most women will be in cocktail dresses, and most men will don at least a shirt and tie (if not a full suit).

CONCERTS TO AVOID

Experiencing classical music in a church setting can be an amazing experience. Unfortunately in Prague, standards vary widely for church concerts. Low-quality shows are advertised in Old Town Square and Malá Strana and rely on non-repeat tourist patrons to stay in business. To avoid disappointment, choose bigger, better-known churches, and make sure the performance features a professional chamber group.

MOZART IN PRAGUE

Considering that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart visited Prague only four times, it’s impressive how indelible his mark on the city is. On his first trip, in early 1787, he visited Count Thun and his wife. They lived in what is now the British Embassy in Malá Strana, and Mozart stayed at an inn on Celetná Street. During this trip he conducted his Prague Symphony and a day later, on January 20, a performance of his opera The Marriage of Figaro, which had a more successful run in Prague than in Vienna. One legend from this time has the host of a party inviting him an hour before all the other guests and making him compose new dances for the evening.

His second trip is the most famous. The maestro came to visit composer F. X. Dušek and his new wife, opera singer Josephine, in 1787 at their rural villa, Bertramka (although he also kept rooms at the Uhelný třída Inn). After several missed deadlines, he conducted the world premiere of Don Giovanni on October 29 at Stavovské divadlo. He tried out a number of church organs in his spare time.

His third visit was just a pass-through, but the fourth and final trip came just months before he died in 1791. He promised to write a new opera to mark the coronation of Leopold II as king of Bohemia. Unfortunately, La Clemenza di Tito, which premiered at the Stavovské divadlo on September 6, was written quickly, and was not as well received as Don Giovanni. Once news of his death on December 5 reached Prague, his friends staged a memorial service that ended with church bells ringing all over town.

CLASSICAL MUSIC

Considering the Czech people’s love of classical music, it will come as no surprise to read that music is often ringing in the streets throughout the city. Pausing near the Charles Bridge to catch a particularly beguiling string quartet is one of Prague’s great pleasures. But it’s also worth it to seek out the professionals that perform in historic venues, from massive concert halls to baroque churches. Pick one of the better chamber ensembles (we’ve listed some here), as the programs are usually more adventurous and you’re likely to hear little-known composers. Or get tickets to see a professional orchestra; the program may not take many risks, but you’re practically guaranteed an evening of virtuoso playing, and often international guest musicians will take the stage. Steer clear of lesser-known ensembles or venues that cater to tourists, which can be subpar.

Collegium Marianum. One of the most well-respected ensembles in town, Collegium Marianum is your best bet if looking to explore baroque music. They often revive seldom-heard works from archives and perform them on period instruments. Performances are usually organized around a historical or geographical theme. Vodičkova 700/32, Staré Mesto 224–229–462 www.collegiummarianum.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Czech National Symphony Orchestra. This major full-size orchestra plays most often at the Rudolfinum. The orchestra has attracted some well-known guest conductors, and performs classical, jazz, and some film scores. 267–215–388 www.cnso.cz .

Czech Philharmonic. Antonín Dvořák conducted the orchestra’s first performance back in 1896. Guest conductors have included Gustav Mahler and Leonard Bernstein. Since 1990 there has been a rapid turnover in chief conductors, but the performances have been of consistently high quality. Most programs include some works by Czech composers. Rudolfinum, nám. Jana Palacha, Staré Mesto 227–059–249 www.ceskafilharmonie.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Nostitz Quartet. Named after a famous 18th-century patron of the arts, this ensemble has won a few prestigious awards. They give excellent performances of works by Mozart and Czech composers, and are one of the better groups to appear in various church concerts around town. The group does not have a website but you can track them down through their Facebook page. www.facebook.com/​nostitzquartet .

PKF - Prague Philharmonia. Founded in 1994, this orchestra is youthful and forward-thinking in more ways than one, boasting a chief conductor (Jakub Hrůša) who was born in 1981 as well as a program which aims to send listeners home with, as they put it, a new “joie de vivre.” Their work ranges from classic and romantic to contemporary composers and a children’s concert series. The group play regularly, including at the Rudolfinum and Prague Castle. 224–267–644 www.pkf.cz .

Prague Chamber Orchestra without Conductor. Famous for playing often (but not always) without a conductor, this ensemble covers the classics up through 20th-century composers. Usually they play about four concerts a year in the Rudolfinum. 274–772–697 www.pko.cz .

Fodor’s Choice Prague Symphony Orchestra (FOK ). The group’s nickname stands for Film-Opera-Koncert. They started in 1934, but it wasn’t until 1952 that they became the official city orchestra. In the 1930s they did music for many Czech films, although they don’t do much opera and film anymore. The ensemble tours extensively and has a large back catalog of recordings. Programs tend to be quite diverse, from Beethoven to Bruckner. They also offer public rehearsals for a mere 100 Kč. Obecní dům, Nám. Republiky 5, Staré Mesto 222–002–336 www.fok.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .

Wihan Quartet. Many quartets borrow names from composers, but few choose the name of a musician: Wihan was a cellist who knew Dvořák. The quartet has won numerous awards since it started in 1985, and has participated in international broadcasts. Most of their sets include at least one Czech composer. www.wihanquartet.co.uk .

CHURCH CONCERTS

Church concerts have become a staple of the Prague classical music scene. The concerts help churches to raise money and also give visitors more of an opportunity to hear classical music, often in an opulent setting. Banners or signs at the churches announce when there’s a concert. Listings can also be found in English on the website www.pis.cz .

■ TIP → Many churches aren’t heated; ask before buying your ticket and dress appropriately.

Barokní knihovní sál (Baroque Library Hall ). Beautiful 18th-century frescoes and colorful stuccowork in a monastery library hall make for one of the more charming concert halls in a city with no shortage of charming concert halls. This is usually a good bet for a quality performance, as it is effectively home to the Collegium Marianum ensemble. Melantrichova 971/19, Staré Mesto 224–229–462 www.tynskaskola.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Bazilika sv. Jakuba (Basilica of St. James ). This is an excellent venue for organ concerts thanks to the church’s organ, which was finished in 1709 and restored in the early 1980s to its original tone structure. All those years later, it’s still one of the best in town. Malá Štupartská 6, Staré Mesto 604–208–490 www.auditeorganum.cz/​organ.html Line A: Staroměstská .

Bazilika sv. Jiří (Basilica of St. George ). Listen to small ensembles playing well-known Vivaldi and other classical “greatest hits” in a Romanesque setting. Located in Prague Castle, the building—or parts of it at least—dates to the 11th century, and holds the tombs of some very early princes. Nám. U sv. Jiří, Pražský Hrad 224–372–434 www.kulturanahrade.cz Line A: Hradčandská .

Chrám sv. Mikuláše (Church of St. Nicholas, Staré Město ). The impressive chandelier inside this baroque landmark was a gift from the Russian czar. Private companies rent out the church for concerts by professional ensembles and visiting amateur choirs and orchestras. The quality and prices vary, but the location—right on the edge of Old Town Square—always delivers, as does the beauty of the church’s interior. Staroměstské nám., Staré Mesto 224–190–990 www.svmikulas.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Fodor’s Choice Kostel sv. Mikuláše (Church of St. Nicholas, Malá Strana ). Ballroom scenes in the movie Van Helsing used the interior of this beautiful baroque church, probably the most famous of its kind in Prague. The building’s dome was one of the last works finished by architect Kilian Ignatz Dientzenhofer before his death in 1751, and a memorial service to Mozart was held here after his death. Local ensembles play concerts of popular classics here throughout the year. Malostranské nám., Malá Strana 257–534–215 www.stnicholas.cz Line A: Malostranská .

Kostel sv. Šimona a Judy (Church of Sts. Simon and Jude ). This decommissioned church with a restored organ and frescoes is used by the Prague Symphony Orchestra for chamber concerts and recitals and it’s also a popular venue for music festivals. The baroque altar is actually an elaborate painting on the wall. Dušní ulice, Josefov 222–002–336 www.fok.cz/​koncertni-jednatelstvi Line A: Staroměstská .

Fodor’s Choice Zrcadlová kaple Klementina (Mirrored Chapel of the Klementinum ). Now part of the National Library, this ornate little chapel in the middle of the Klementinum complex is worth a peek. Concerts are held almost daily and the music features the usual suspects—Mozart, Bach, and Vivaldi. Different concert companies program the space; signs nearby usually have the day’s schedule. Marianské nám., Staré Mesto 221–663–331 www.nkp.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

FILM

Hollywood descended on Prague en masse in the early 1990s, using its beauty as a stand-in for nearly every conceivable European city from Paris to Amsterdam. And it helped that Prague was far more affordable than any of those Western European capitals. It’s still common to run into a film crew on the streets, although it’s less likely to be a blockbuster now. Movie watchers, however, are more easily found. Multiplexes are the dominant force, and locals fill them regularly. For something indie, foreign, or Czech with subtitles, head to Prague’s many independent and well-run art cinemas, which seem to have a different festival almost every week. Most films are shown in their original-language versions, but it pays to check. If a film was made in the United States or Britain, the chances are good that it will be shown with Czech subtitles rather than dubbed (the exception being cartoons). Film titles, however, are usually translated into Czech. Movies in the original language are normally indicated as českými titulky (with Czech subtitles). Prague’s English-language websites carry film reviews and full timetables.

■ TIP → You can reserve tickets in advance at all movie theaters and multiplexes. Also note: unlike movie tickets in the U.S., your ticket often has an assigned seat number.

Aero. Film junkies make the trek to this out-of-the-way gem of a theater knowing it’s worth the trip. The tiny cinema is hidden in the middle of a residential block, and keeps an ambitious schedule of two or three different films a day: festivals, retrospectives, oldies but goodies (think Scarface and The Big Lebowski ) plus feature films with English subtitles. Czech translations are done through headphones. Visiting guests have included Terry Gilliam, Godfrey Reggio, and Paul Morrisey. The theater also has an outdoor beer garden in the summer months and a lively indoor bar year-round. Biskupcova 31, Žižkov 608–330–088 www.kinoaero.cz Line A: Želivského .

Bio Oko. Bargain ticket prices, live music before the films, and a schedule that offers greater variety and more “big name” films are just a few reasons to check out this theater outside the city center. New international releases as well as Czech films (sometimes with subtitles) and festival series give Oko a varied lineup. There’s a refurbished bar and café here outfitted with Wi-Fi, and it even offers a video streaming service. Františka Křížka 15, Holešovice 608–330–088 www.biooko.net Line C: Vltavská .

Cinema City Nový Smíchov. Cinema City Nový Smíchov feels like your usual multiplex until you try the “4DX” experience, which involves moving seats and special effects in your seat like fog and lightning. Located in the Nový Smíchov shopping center, the cinema is an experience for all five senses. Nový Smíchov, Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Smíchov 255–742–021 www.cinemacity.cz/​en/​novysmichov Line B: Anděl .

Cinema City Slovanský dům. This is pretty much the only multiplex in the center of town that runs about 10 movies at once, mostly the latest Hollywood films in English (with Czech subtitles). It occasionally runs Czech films with English subtitles. Na Přikopé 22, Nové Mesto 255–742–021 www.cinemacity.cz/​en/​slovanskydum Line B: Nám. Republiky .

Institut Français de Prague. Bonjour! What do we have here? A little bit of Paris in Prague, that’s what. Hidden in the basement of the French Institute is a full-size movie theater; most of the programming consists of recent French films as well as classics, also in French. Some of the films have English subtitles, and the admission fee is usually nominal (80 Kč). They also host an annual French Film Festival in November. No food or drinks allowed (but on the ground floor there’s an excellent café). “Serious” film watching only. Štěpanská 35, Nové Mesto 221–401–011 www.ifp.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .

Fodor’s Choice Lucerna. Easily the city’s handsomest old movie palace, this art nouveau venue was designed by former President Václav Havel’s grandfather and built in 1916. It’s a great place to recapture the romance and glamour of film. Grab a drink at the bar, where there is sometimes a live piano player, even if the interior could do with a little more love. Watch out for the upside-down horse sculpture, plus rider, in the passage outside—it’s a sly echo of one on the square, which has the Czech Republic’s patron saint, St. Wenceslas, the right way up. Vodičkova 36, Nové Mesto 224–216–973 www.lucerna.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .

Světozor. Prague’s central art-house cinema has a great location near the Lucerna shopping passage and an excellent selection of offbeat American films, classic European cinema, and the best of new Czech films. Many films are subtitled in English and the theater even has its own brand of beer. Vodičkova 41, Nové Mesto 224–946–824 www.kinosvetozor.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .

PERFORMANCE ARTS CENTERS AND MAJOR VENUES

Divadlo Kolowrat. Home to the much-loved Prague Shakespeare Company, which stages the Bard’s works in English, this small venue in a repurposed palace also houses The Swan Theater Club, a bar and restaurant heavily populated by Czech actors and celeb-types. Get your tickets in person at the box office or online. Ovocný trh 6, Staré Mesto 778–058–333 for Swan Theater Club www.pragueshakespeare.com/​venues Lines A & B: Můstek .

Kongresové centrum Praha (Congress Center ). Somehow, this former Palace of Culture, built in 1981, has never found a place in people’s hearts. The large, functionalist, multipurpose building has several performance spaces that can seat thousands, but overall it has a very sterile feel. Plays—usually musicals—and special events come here. As the largest venue in the city, it also hosts the majority of conferences. 5 kvetna 65, Nusle 261–171–111 www.kcp.cz Line C: Vyšehrad .

Lichtenštejnský palác (Lichtenstein Palace ). Home to the Czech music academy (HAMU), this baroque palace from the 1790s has the large Martinů Hall for professional concerts and a smaller gallery occasionally used for student recitals. The pleasant courtyard sometimes has music in the summer months. Malostranské nám. 13, Malá Strana 257–534–206 Line A: Malostranská .

Meet Factory. If you want to take the pulse of Prague’s contemporary arts scene, get yourself down to Meet Factory. It can be a little tricky to find (look out for the building with car sculptures driving vertically up it, across the train tracks), but it’s worth it for the variety of cool art, theater, dance, and music performances that take place in this interesting and unusual space. Ke Sklárně 3213/15, Smíchov 251–551–796 meetfactory.cz Line B: Smíchovské nádraží .

Fodor’s Choice Národní divadlo (National Theater ). This is the main stage in the Czech Republic for drama, dance, and opera. The interior, with its ornate and etched ceilings, is worth the visit alone. Most of the theater performances are in Czech, but some operas have English supertitles, and ballet is an international language—right? Book the opera online ahead of time for fantastic discounts; you’ll get to see top-quality performances in sumptuous surroundings at a snip of the price you could pay in other European capitals. Stavovské divadlo and Kolowrat are also part of the National Theater system. Národní 2, Nové Mesto 224–901–448 www.narodni-divadlo.cz Line B: Národní třída .

O2 Arena. Formerly the Sazka Arena (tickets are still sold through Sazka Ticket), this indoor sports venue often hosts big-time rock and pop acts, like Justin Bieber and The Cure. It’s also the current home of local ice hockey legends, Sparta Praha. The security level is very high, and almost airportlike. A small nail file or pocket scissors can delay your entrance. Českomoravská čp. 2345/17, Vysocany 266–771–000 www.o2arena.cz Line B: Českomoravská .

Obecní dům (Municipal House ). The main concert hall, a true art nouveau gem named after composer Bedřich Smetana, is home to the Prague Symphony Orchestra and many music festivals. A few smaller halls, all named for famous figures, host chamber concerts. Tours of the building are also offered. It’s well worth a visit, even if you only pop your head in. Nám. Republiky 5, Staré Mesto 222–002–101 www.obecnidum.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .

Fodor’s Choice Rudolfinum. Austrian Crown Prince Rudolf lent his name to this neo-Renaissance concert space and exhibition gallery built in 1884; it’s only been open to the public since 1992. The large concert hall, named for Antonín Dvořák, who conducted here, hosts concerts by the Czech Philharmonic. The smaller Josef Suk Hall, on the opposite side of the building, is used for chamber concerts. Rival theaters may have richer interiors, but the acoustics here are excellent (and the exterior is also pretty fancy). Alšovo nábřeží 12, Staré Mesto 227–059–227 www.rudolfinum.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Fodor’s Choice Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theater ). It’s impossible to visit Prague without knowing that Mozart conducted the world premiere of Don Giovanni on this stage way back in 1787. Fittingly, the interior was used for scenes in Miloš Forman’s movie Amadeus. It’s stylish and refined without being distracting. This is a branch of the National Theater, and high-quality productions of Mozart are usually in the repertoire together with other classic operas, plays, and the occasional smaller ballet. Ovocný trh 6, Nové Mesto 224–901–448 www.narodni-divadlo.cz/​en/​estates-theatre Lines A & B: Můstek .

Velký sál, Lucerna (Great Hall, Lucerna ). Part of the fascinating Lucerna complex, the Velký sál is a beautiful art nouveau ballroom with a big main floor and some loges. It hosts medium-size rock and pop bands in wonderful historic surroundings. Everyone from Ray Charles to Maurice Chevalier has played here, so soak up the history as you sway to the beat. Štěpánská 61, Nové Mesto 224–225–440 www.lucerna.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .

5 CZECH FILMS TO CHECK OUT

Journey to the Beginning of Time (Cesta do pravěku) (1955; dir. Karel Zeman). A luminary figure in the development of special effects, Zeman made this film nearly 40 years before Jurassic Park, which is a truly remarkable feat. The story centers on the journey that four young boys undertake on a river through time; it gives life to the pictures and bones we find in museums. Some tremendous set pieces will take your breath away.

Happy End (1967; dir. Oldřich Lipský). Not even 70 minutes long, this film is as unconventional as it is impressive. Opening with a title card that reads “The End,” the film builds on its backwardness as it moves in linear fashion from its main character’s death to birth. Your expectation of progress in the opposite direction will have you shaking with mirth even as you appreciate moments of visual poetry.

The Fireman’s Ball (Hoří, má panenko) (1967; dir. Miloš Forman). Made on a shoestring budget shortly before the Soviet invasion in August 1968, Forman’s film has rightly been called one of the country’s most important films. This very thinly veiled critique of authoritarianism is presented with a flair for comedy and a high level of entertainment, and it remains an intelligent allegory that some may say is still relevant today.

The Ear (Ucho) (1970; dir. Karel Kachyňa). This film’s screenwriter was a communist activist in his youth, which caused the film to be banned upon its release and not screened in public until the Velvet Revolution. It takes place during a single evening at the house of Ludvik, a high-level civil servant, who becomes convinced his house has been bugged. The atmosphere is electric, as recurring flashbacks to a party earlier in the evening—shot from Ludvik’s perspective—effortlessly reel the viewer in.

Jára Cimrman Lying, Sleeping (Jára Cimrman ležící, spící) (1983; dir. Ladislav Smoljak). This comedy takes a look at the life of the most famous Czech who never lived. The film is bookended by scenes in the present, when museum visitors are told about all of the incredible events that have occurred in the character’s life; in 2005 Jára Cimrman was voted the most important Czech in history in a national poll.

PUPPET SHOWS AND BLACK-LIGHT THEATER

Black-light theater, a form of nonverbal theater—melding live acting, mime, video, and stage trickery—made a global splash when Czechoslovakia introduced it at Expo ’58. Some black-light shows have been running for thousands of performances. Tickets can be pricey compared with other art options in town, and it is an acquired taste, but kids often love it. Puppetry also has a long tradition, but most of the shows are dialogue-intensive and aimed at a young audience.

All Colours Theater. Since 1993 this small theater has been presenting a small repertoire of nonverbal shows. Faust is their main performance, although they occasionally revive other works. Some legends claim that the real Faust lived in Prague, which gives the show some local significance. The interior feels a little tired. Rytiřská 31, Staré Mesto 224–186–114 www.blacktheatre.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .

Divadlo Image. This is the new home of a dance, pantomime, and black-light company that has a repertoire of long-running classics of the genre and a “best of” show, which children will appreciate. Národní 25, Josefov 732–156–343 www.imagetheatre.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Divadlo Ta Fantastika. A black-light show called Aspects of Alice, based loosely on Alice in Wonderland, has run here almost daily for more than 2,000 performances. The theater was established in Florida in 1981, and moved to Prague after the Velvet Revolution. It’s been running at its current address, a minor baroque palace, since 1993. ■ TIP → It’s one of the best black-light options. Karlova 8, Staré Mesto 222–221–366 www.tafantastika.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Křižíkova fontána. Pressurized water and colored lights keep pace with recorded music that ranges from recent film scores to a tribute to Rihanna, and selections of classical music. It’s an odd mix, but it’s fun. Live acts, such as ballerinas, actors, and full orchestras, share the stage on occasion. Tickets are available at the venue. Výstaviště, Holešovice 723–665–694 www.krizikovafontana.cz Line C: Nádraži Holešovice .

Národní divadlo marionet FAMILY (The National Marionette Theater ). This puppet company has been presenting Mozart’s Don Giovanni with string puppets set to recorded music sung in Italian since 1991. The opera is slightly tongue-in-cheek, and Mozart himself makes a guest appearance. A new production of The Magic Flute, in German, is occasionally performed as well. Žatecká 1, Staré Mesto 224–819–322 www.mozart.cz Line A: Staroměstská .

Fodor’s Choice Nová Scená (The New Stage ). The cool glass-block façade of the Nová scena, which opened in 1983, stands out among the ornate 19th-century buildings in the area. Black-light theater company Laterna Magika (which takes its name from the original black-light presentation at Expo ’58) perform here, and the rest of the program schedule is handled through the Národní divadlo. Contemporary dance pieces and other language-free performances dominate the calendar. Národní 4, Nové Mesto 224–901–111 www.novascena.cz Line B: Národní třída .

THEATER AND DANCE

Theater and dance in Prague is where the modern arts scene really comes alive. Inventive young companies sadly often perform only in Czech, but there are good English options too. A variety of dance companies bring the theatrical experience to visitors without the language barrier.

Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře. Most of the programming for this small, out-of-the-way theater is physical, nonverbal theater and dance, along with some music. It’s a great place to see cutting-edge, unconventional productions; each year has a different theme. It’s also home to Motus, a not-for-profit organization, set up by young local artists, producers, and presenters to promote and produce interesting and inventive new art. Fr. Křížka 36, Bubenec 233–376–985 www.alfredvedvore.cz Line C: Vltavská .

Fodor’s Choice Divadlo Archa (Archa Theater ). Funky, contemporary, and underground, Archa is the main venue for modern theater, dance, and avant-garde music. Some visiting troupes perform in English, and other shows are designated as English-friendly in the program. The centrally located theater opened in 1994, and is often referred to as the Alternative National Theater. Na Poříčí 26, Nové Mesto 221–716–333 www.archatheatre.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .

Divadlo Ponec. A former cylinder factory, then a movie theater, this neoclassical building was renovated into a modern dance venue in 2001. The house presents a lot of premieres, and is the main “dance” theater in town. Several dance festivals are based here. Husitská 24/a, Žižkov 224–721–531 www.divadloponec.cz Lines B & C: Florenc .

Švandovo divadlo. If you want to join the theater-loving masses and there’s nothing on in English, Švandovo is your best bet. Plays—a rotating mix ranging from Shakespeare to Ibsen to contemporary showings—are subtitled above the stage in English. The theater also serves as a major venue for the Prague Pride festival. ■ TIP → Sit in the balcony, on the right side, facing the stage for the best view. Štefánikova 57, Smíchov 257–318–666 www.svandovodivadlo.cz Line B: Anděl .